Leif springs with coil overs

[mick53]

Hello folks. Sorry so long. Here is some background. I'm building a 53 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup Drag and Drive for the crowded 8.50 second class in the quarter mile. Drive train. 6-71 blown/nitrous Chevy inline 6 292, 1300ish reliable HP in race mode and 500ish HP in street mode on pump gas. Tremec T56 Magnum 6 speed. Factory custom built Frankland Quick Change (thanks Fred) with a Bicknell Torque Arm and a triple biscuit. I'm starting my chassis soon and need to make some decisions. I'm married to my Leif springs because it's a 53 pickup. I've owned and driven the truck since 1980. My front axle is a 4" drop custom one off made by Pete and Jakes with Superbell. Designed to leave the ground and safely return to earth. On the front I will be running Leif springs and a pan hard bar with double adjustable shocks and possibly coil overs for adjustability (why not?). If you are still with me my biggest concern is the rear suspension. In the rear I want Leif springs and double adjustable coil overs and a pan hard bar or Watts Link. When I'm in the drive mode that is usually about 1000 miles per event I will be hauling a single axel trailer !500ish pounds and Racing tires and wheels in the back. I need to be able to jack up the back to compensate for the extra weight. I would also like to be able to adjust the ride height. Not interested in air shocks. When I talk to the custom Leif spring people they want the weight on the axles right down to paint. If you are off you are just stuck with it. I don't want my Leif springs to be the last thing I buy. Why can't I just buy a lighter Leif spring and make up the difference with a coil over? I know this has been done. My problem is the Leif spring guys and the coil over guys don't seem to hang out together. I would like to use one vendor for the entire package instead of me trying to get it right. Is this a dumb idea? Do you know anyone that you can recommend to help me with it? I realize this is a big expense but I still have my left nut. It would also look pretty cool and chicks like the shiny stuff. Thank you for your time and any thoughts you have.

[r8rs4lf]

Originally Posted by mick53

Hello folks. Sorry so long. Here is some background. I'm building a 53 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup Drag and Drive for the crowded 8.50 second class in the quarter mile. Drive train. 6-71 blown/nitrous Chevy inline 6 292, 1300ish reliable HP in race mode and 500ish HP in street mode on pump gas. Tremec T56 Magnum 6 speed. Factory custom built Frankland Quick Change (thanks Fred) with a Bicknell Torque Arm and a triple biscuit. I'm starting my chassis soon and need to make some decisions. I'm married to my Leif springs because it's a 53 pickup. I've owned and driven the truck since 1980. My front axle is a 4" drop custom one off made by Pete and Jakes with Superbell. Designed to leave the ground and safely return to earth. On the front I will be running Leif springs and a pan hard bar with double adjustable shocks and possibly coil overs for adjustability (why not?). If you are still with me my biggest concern is the rear suspension. In the rear I want Leif springs and double adjustable coil overs and a pan hard bar or Watts Link. When I'm in the drive mode that is usually about 1000 miles per event I will be hauling a single axel trailer !500ish pounds and Racing tires and wheels in the back. I need to be able to jack up the back to compensate for the extra weight. I would also like to be able to adjust the ride height. Not interested in air shocks. When I talk to the custom Leif spring people they want the weight on the axles right down to paint. If you are off you are just stuck with it. I don't want my Leif springs to be the last thing I buy. Why can't I just buy a lighter Leif spring and make up the difference with a coil over? I know this has been done. My problem is the Leif spring guys and the coil over guys don't seem to hang out together. I would like to use one vendor for the entire package instead of me trying to get it right. Is this a dumb idea? Do you know anyone that you can recommend to help me with it? I realize this is a big expense but I still have my left nut. It would also look pretty cool and chicks like the shiny stuff. Thank you for your time and any thoughts you have.

Did you say something about a blower because that's all I see!!!

Sorry, can't help, but I'll be watching because I was wondering the same thing about leafs and coilovers.

[mick53]

Originally Posted by r8rs4lf

Did you say something about a blower because that's all I see!!!

Sorry, can't help, but I'll be watching because I was wondering the same thing about leafs and coilovers.

I might have mentioned a blower. My 292 a work in progress, Billet crank, billet solid roller cam and steel billet rods all by Crower. Billet mains dowelled and girdled. 5 stage dry sump. Ryan Falconer V-12 head, semi-hemi chamber design (340I/220E). Weiand classic case 6-71 with 2 Quick Fuel 650 DP supercharger carbs and a 16 jet Holley nitrous fogger plate. Electromotive direct fire EMS.

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

I have done this on a few different vehicles.

VW bugs especially in the front for a progressive spring rate. The springs were for lack of a better term loose. So normal suspension movements I did not get to much into the spring. It really helped since it was slammed, and a full tank of gas made it bottom out easily.

I have also done this twice on old mono leaf Novas. I kept the spring tighter for a lack of a better term to give me the firmness I wanted.

So my preference from when I experimented with it is to set height with the normal spring. Then use the coil over to dial in spring weight in a progressive manner.

You will need to buy a few different pairs to dial in your desires.

[mick53]

Originally Posted by Ziegelsteinfaust

I have done this on a few different vehicles.

VW bugs especially in the front for a progressive spring rate. The springs were for lack of a better term loose. So normal suspension movements I did not get to much into the spring. It really helped since it was slammed, and a full tank of gas made it bottom out easily.

I have also done this twice on old mono leaf Novas. I kept the spring tighter for a lack of a better term to give me the firmness I wanted.

So my preference from when I experimented with it is to set height with the normal spring. Then use the coil over to dial in spring weight in a progressive manner.

You will need to buy a few different pairs to dial in your desires.

Thanks. I just talked to QA-1. They said a pair of springs are only $120. I would think after the first shot or 2 I should know what I need. I could always sell the other ones if I actually sold anything.

[jjzepplin]

I am following because = Blower.

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

Originally Posted by mick53

Thanks. I just talked to QA-1. They said a pair of springs are only $120. I would think after the first shot or 2 I should know what I need. I could always sell the other ones if I actually sold anything.

Also how tight you compress the spring on the coil over makes a big difference.

I think I used 100# on the Novas.

Now I use air bags for the same effect

[mick53]

Originally Posted by Ziegelsteinfaust

I have done this on a few different vehicles.

VW bugs especially in the front for a progressive spring rate. The springs were for lack of a better term loose. So normal suspension movements I did not get to much into the spring. It really helped since it was slammed, and a full tank of gas made it bottom out easily.

I have also done this twice on old mono leaf Novas. I kept the spring tighter for a lack of a better term to give me the firmness I wanted.

So my preference from when I experimented with it is to set height with the normal spring. Then use the coil over to dial in spring weight in a progressive manner.

You will need to buy a few different pairs to dial in your desires.

When I talked to QA-1 they were lets say a little less than enthusiastic about the idea. Probably because they think leif springs are dumb. They were however not able to explain to me why not. I'm a Physics guy. What information I was able to get from them suggested exactly what you said. Use the leif spring for ride height and the coil over for tuning the spring rate. Thank you.

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

Originally Posted by mick53

When I talked to QA-1 they were lets say a little less than enthusiastic about the idea. Probably because they think leif springs are dumb. They were however not able to explain to me why not. I'm a Physics guy. What information I was able to get from them suggested exactly what you said. Use the leif spring for ride height and the coil over for tuning the spring rate. Thank you.

Its because they cannot have any control of the outcome, and hybrid systems always have issues that need to be worked out on a individual basis.

QA1 has a name and they want to protect it. If they recommend it and you have to tune with a few sets of springs. They sound like they lied to you. When you post up online complaints

Besure to reinforce the shock mounts to handle the new weight being added to them
.

Look into rolling sleeve bags as a another option

[mick53]

Originally Posted by Ziegelsteinfaust

Its because they cannot have any control of the outcome, and hybrid systems always have issues that need to be worked out on a individual basis.

QA1 has a name and they want to protect it. If they recommend it and you have to tune with a few sets of springs. They sound like they lied to you. When you post up online complaints

Besure to reinforce the shock mounts to handle the new weight being added to them
.

Look into rolling sleeve bags as a another option

Thanks. I'll look into rolling sleeve bags. Some classes require original frame rails. I got another set of 53 frame rails and TIGed up all the holes. The plan is to reverse them and use them to box the frame rails. I think it will look much nicer than boxing plates. All the cross members except maybe the very front will be replaced with tube. I will probably add a midplate and the 292 will need to be moved back due to all the stuff on the front of the engine. You are not allowed to move the engine back for weight distribution but you are allowed to move it back for fitment. I also need to make a crossmember set up for the triple biscuit on the Bicknell torque arm. I also need to get 2 3" exhaust through there. Thanks for the heads up on strengthening the shock mounts. I also need to make shock mounts for the front.

[HO455]

Have you talked with Calvert Racing? They are a drag racing oriented suspension company. With the popularity of the drag and drive events you're not the first one looking to do this.

The main problem I see with coil overs is you will likely need to remove them before making a pass down the strip to prevent binding of the rest of the rear suspension which would lead to poor traction and possibly problems keeping the truck in a straight line.

My buddy had this guy help him with his Firebird suspension.

https://youtu.be/WcA5xQGWpuY?si=VvUShs37xMqaHFYI

Good luck! That's a cool project you've got there.

[mick53]

Originally Posted by HO455

Have you talked with Calvert Racing? They are a drag racing oriented suspension company. With the popularity of the drag and drive events you're not the first one looking to do this.

The main problem I see with coil overs is you will likely need to remove them before making a pass down the strip to prevent binding of the rest of the rear suspension which would lead to poor traction and possibly problems keeping the truck in a straight line.

My buddy had this guy help him with his Firebird suspension.

https://youtu.be/WcA5xQGWpuY?si=VvUShs37xMqaHFYI

Good luck! That's a cool project you've got there.

Thanks for the info. I've followed this guy for a while. I will contact him and Calvert.