Comfort Grip Steering Wheel Install

[Luke87gt]

Hi guy, I’m replacing the 13” steering wheel in my 69 with the following:

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/7961...CABEgI9cfD_BwE

My current setup has a pretty long horn wire and it’s not clear to me how the horn needs to be configured to work with new steering wheel. Interestingly, the new steering wheel came with no directions.

Can anyone help shed some light or steer me (no pun) to the right direction.

I’ve included a pic of the current setup, showing how the steering wheel wire is attached. Thank you

[Mike C]

The Grant ground wire should just plug onto the OEM spring pin that is part of the horn contact and turn signal cancelling cam. Just unplug it then put the hub on and install the horn cap retainer.

Now if that is missing or damaged, best bet is to just get a new horn contact/cancelling cam assembly with the spring and the pin.

Hopefully you bought the kit for the 68 and earlier cars? They have a hub diameter that is better suited to the truck column. The 69 and up is for columns that have the key and steering wheel lock mechanism in them.

[Already Gone]

I have one installed in my truck. I like it.

[CAMAROBOY68SS]

Lot of info on other wheels, but within it is all the steps in order on how the whole comfort grip wheel goes together.

https://www.chevelles.com/threads/co...ls-14.1163264/

[Luke87gt]

Originally Posted by CAMAROBOY68SS

Lot of info on other wheels, but within it is all the steps in order on how the whole comfort grip wheel goes together.

https://www.chevelles.com/threads/co...ls-14.1163264/

Good info that should come in handy.

Thank you for sharing.

[Luke87gt]

Today, I pulled off the aftermarket steering wheel that the truck came with. To my surprise, the center nut was on finger tight and I didn’t even need a tool to remove it. Whoa lol

In any case, once I got the wheel off, I discovered this aluminum piece staring me in the face. It appears a puller is needed to get that piece off. I get my puller kit and realize that all 4 sizes of bolts in the kit are too big for the thread size needed. So I will need to run over to Home Depot to get 3 puller bolts in the right thread size so I can pull off that little aluminum piece.

So a 1hr job is turning into a multi hour job, as usual

Still fun though! Hopefully once I get that piece off there won’t be more surprises with the horn piece.

[Roostre]

Originally Posted by Luke87gt

Today, I pulled off the aftermarket steering wheel that the truck came with. To my surprise, the center nut was on finger tight and I didn’t even need a tool to remove it. Whoa lol

In any case, once I got the wheel off, I discovered this aluminum piece staring me in the face. It appears a puller is needed to get that piece off. I get my puller kit and realize that all 4 sizes of bolts in the kit are too big for the thread size needed. So I will need to run over to Home Depot to get 3 puller bolts in the right thread size so I can pull off that little aluminum piece.

So a 1hr job is turning into a multi hour job, as usual

Still fun though! Hopefully once I get that piece off there won’t be more surprises with the horn piece.

The aftermarket hub that was on my truck was barely on there. I just used a small 2 jaw puller to take it off, no need for the "correct" steering wheel puller.

[Luke87gt]

So I was able to use the puller to get the aluminum Grant mounting piece off.

However, I discovered that the little plastic retainer (aftermarket Grant) that holds the spring isn’t compatible with the OEM setup. You can see the white plastic retainer in the last pic below.

So I need to buy a new OEM horn mounting kit (spring, rod, and plastic retainer).

What I don’t know is if the stock length rod is compatible with the Comfort Grip wheel, anyone know? I hope so.

Thank you

[Luke87gt]

I think this is the OEM assembly I need.

You can see the retainer is correct and can be utilized to hold the spring in place securely.

[Steeveedee]

Looks like that upper bearing is missing some of the balls? If I was in there, I'd just replace it anyway.

[pjmoreland]

The stock rod and spring will work with the comfort tilt wheel. I've got two of them working that way.

[Luke87gt]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

Looks like that upper bearing is missing some of the balls? If I was in there, I'd just replace it anyway.

Are you sure?

I watched a guy take his assembly apart on YouTube today and his bearing looked exactly like that (balls aren’t equidistant nor all touching each other)

[Luke87gt]

Last detail…

Most online references I see are saying that the black plastic spring retainer is correct for a 69-72. I don't see how that could be.

Looking at the entire assembly, I *think* it’s the white one that I need, which is what I ordered. Will try it as soon as it arrives.

What I mention above seem to be supported by this guy too:

https://youtu.be/ra47zn8oOOY?si=H29dvKr_bL3uYivv

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by Luke87gt

Are you sure?

I watched a guy take his assembly apart on YouTube today and his bearing looked exactly like that (balls aren’t equidistant nor all touching each other)

Not certain, but I expect a bearing to be fully populated with balls. Maybe the steering wheel doesn't have that? Seems like it would wiggle.

[pjmoreland]

The stock retainer for 67-72 is a friction fit push-in style similar to the white one.

[pjmoreland]

Here's a photo of a stock retainer.

[Luke87gt]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

Here's a photo of a stock retainer.

This is helpful. The “stock” retainer looks to be more closer to the white one it looks like. And I do recall that the stock one is red and doesn’t look to have any keyway/nipple (like the black one above)

[Luke87gt]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

Not certain, but I expect a bearing to be fully populated with balls. Maybe the steering wheel doesn't have that? Seems like it would wiggle.

There’s no play or wiggle thankfully.

Good idea to grease that before I assemble it all or no?

[Roostre]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

Not certain, but I expect a bearing to be fully populated with balls. Maybe the steering wheel doesn't have that? Seems like it would wiggle.

I just did mine because I was replacing the steering wheel. The old bearing looked like there were gaps, but not enough to be missing balls. My old wheel did move a little, and it's all tight now. Ultimately, it came down to I was in there, the new part was less than $20, and it was less than 5 minutes to pop the old one out with a screw driver and push the new one in with my fingers. I did give it a little tap with a punch just to be sure it was fully seated. I also smeared a little grease into the new one. Picture is of old versus new.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by Roostre

I just did mine because I was replacing the steering wheel. The old bearing looked like there were gaps, but not enough to be missing balls. My old wheel did move a little, and it's all tight now. Ultimately, it came down to I was in there, the new part was less than $20, and it was less than 5 minutes to pop the old one out with a screw driver and push the new one in with my fingers. I did give it a little tap with a punch just to be sure it was fully seated. I also smeared a little grease into the new one. Picture is of old versus new.

Thanks for the info. Amazing how nasty a 60-year old bearing can get.

[Luke87gt]

Cool, where did you source the bearing? I’m not sure I saw it on Rockauto.

So no special pullers, just pry with screwdriver and tap in new one?

[Roostre]

Originally Posted by Luke87gt

Cool, where did you source the bearing? I’m not sure I saw it on Rockauto.

So no special pullers, just pry with screwdriver and tap in new one?

I got it from LMC truck. Looks like they have it for $10.39 plus shipping.

I expected to need some sort of puller or screw, but was able to get a small screwdriver under the outer lip and it popped right out. I pushed it back in with my hand, but tapped around the outer lip with a small punch just to make sure it was fully seated.

[Luke87gt]

Awesome, thank you