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09-04-2004, 01:11 PM
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#26 |
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Account Suspended
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Texas
Posts: 2,686
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Im sorry to express my belief on that one But Im not a big beliver in patching engines together I kinda prefer the do it right first time aproach
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09-04-2004, 01:22 PM
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#27 | |
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Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: SOMERSET KY.
Posts: 6,427
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Quote:
 JOHN
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junkyardjohn 69 1 TON TOW TRUCK // 84 4WD CUCV BLAZER// 85 1 TON 4WD STAKE TRUCK// 86 M1031 5/4 TON 4WD CUCV// ALOT OF OLD TRUCKS FOR ONE OLD MAN TO DRIVE.  THERES ROOM FOR ALL OF GODS CREATURES RIGHT NEXT TO MY MASHED POTATOES//LIFE MEMBER OF P.E.T.A (PEOPLE EATING TASTY ANIMALS) DON'T RENT U-HAUL ALWAYS TELL THE TRUTH IT WILL AMAZE PART OF THE PEOPLE & ASTONISH THE REST |
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09-04-2004, 01:31 PM
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#28 |
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Merciless Butcher
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: CC Nevada
Posts: 1,447
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It sure makes disassembly easier if you remove the ridge. It saves you from having to drive the pistons out. I have also used a ridge reamer plenty of times with no damage or problems to the block.
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Your Bought And Sold....I Got Your Soul! |
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09-04-2004, 06:06 PM
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#29 |
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Account Suspended
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Texas
Posts: 2,686
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Ive just seen too many friends and people try to ring & Bearing older mileage engines and then try to hot rod them just to have them come apart. Rods could be out of round piston ring grooves can be worn Cam bearings etc.
Wichever way you build your engine be sure to check tolerances and inspect parts for wear So you can enjoy your engine for many years. |
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09-04-2004, 06:14 PM
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#30 | |
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Account Suspended
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Texas
Posts: 2,686
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Quote:
He was talking about getting it prepped at a shop And getting new pistons anyhow . Or so i assume. |
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09-04-2004, 06:48 PM
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#31 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: San Jose Ca.
Posts: 3,335
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Quote:
You assumed correctly  The machine shop is most likely going to do the lower ends. I am not sure yet. I wont know until I get my hands on a 327 block and get it down there.
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09-04-2004, 07:30 PM
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#32 |
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Not too old to learn
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: SoCal
Posts: 617
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skokie
I like what your doing as I am ready to build my engine, however I was doing the 350 that's in it. I got a quote from a local engine rebuilder for $845 that's every thing from heads to bottom end with new pistons rods resized, bearings ,cam ,and chain, valves, guides and seats. I install water pump fuel pump intake manifold carb etc. I know the 327 is a stock engine for the 1/2 ton, but isn't the 350 being a longer strock have more torque? I see some guys say the 327 runs stronger, I'm confused. I will take pics of what I think are stock 327 valve covers. Are you getting the How to Build Small Block Chevy book?
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1968 C10 a way to long restoration. |
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09-04-2004, 07:59 PM
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#33 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: San Jose Ca.
Posts: 3,335
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I dont know which one has the longer stroke. I had a machine shop quote me 950.00 for that to, provided there was nothing wrong the parts. The fun part is going to be finding a 327 around here. Finding parts for these trucks in San Jose is tough and when you do find them they are pricey. Its almost cheaper for me to roadtrip to another state and get it.
My wife would love that hhaha Also I ordered the book off yesterday and it should be here next week. Looking forward to that.
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09-04-2004, 09:09 PM
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#34 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Alexandria, VA
Posts: 1,534
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The 327 has a stroke of 3.25" and the 350 stroke is 3.48" If you can't find a 327 block, don't worry, a 327 can be made using a 350 block and 307 crank. Then all you'll need are 327 pistons to finish out the the short block.
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'72 GMC SWB C1500 Custom, frame-off in progress. 383 SBC, 9:1CR, Comp Cams XE262H, Scat internal balanced crank, Eagle SIR 6" rods, Keith Black dish pistons, Dart Iron Eagle 72/180 heads, Weiand Stealth intake, Stewart stage I water pump, Holley 4bbl vac sec, TH350 with B&M Shift Improver Kit. 12 bolt positraction.   
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09-04-2004, 09:40 PM
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#35 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: San Jose Ca.
Posts: 3,335
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Lets say I find a block that does not have any pistons. What would be a good choice to use?
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09-04-2004, 09:53 PM
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#36 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Alexandria, VA
Posts: 1,534
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Quote:
__________________
'72 GMC SWB C1500 Custom, frame-off in progress. 383 SBC, 9:1CR, Comp Cams XE262H, Scat internal balanced crank, Eagle SIR 6" rods, Keith Black dish pistons, Dart Iron Eagle 72/180 heads, Weiand Stealth intake, Stewart stage I water pump, Holley 4bbl vac sec, TH350 with B&M Shift Improver Kit. 12 bolt positraction.
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09-04-2004, 10:00 PM
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#37 |
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Not too old to learn
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: SoCal
Posts: 617
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skokie :here are pics of valve covers I bought. The guy told me they were from a 1967 327.
Anyway they were in good shape. The other pic is the chrome Mr Gasket covers on my truck know. Which book did you buy? Chris
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1968 C10 a way to long restoration. |
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09-04-2004, 10:03 PM
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#38 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: San Jose Ca.
Posts: 3,335
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I meant brand. But if you got the size to then great.
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09-04-2004, 10:05 PM
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#39 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: San Jose Ca.
Posts: 3,335
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Quote:
How to Build Small Block Chevy book Nice valve covers. |
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