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09-05-2004, 10:39 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Detroit Lakes, Minnesota
Posts: 885
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how easy to remove inner fenders?
i want to remove the inner fenders on my 67 k10. whats the easiest way to do this. i want to get them acid dipped and repainted the right color. do i have to remove the actual fenders to get these out? thanks let me know!
matt
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1971 k5 blazer 80k mike survivor 1972 3/4 ton 4wd Cummins 12v 1967 swb 2wd 427bbc 1968 4wd shortbox 1971 Cheyenne swb k10 unrestored 1971 Cheyenne super 40k 402bb survivor 1967 Chevy k10 (first truck) 1968 L78 camaro survivor 18k miles 1969 z28 survivor 60k miles 1969 z28 survivor 39k miles 1969 z28 rs survivor 80k miles |
09-05-2004, 10:42 PM | #2 |
Watch out for your cornhole !
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Azle, Texas
Posts: 14,162
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There's a bunch of bolts that all come in from the bottom. Some trucks have the little support strap around the steering shaft that requires 4 bolts to be removed from inside engine compartment.
No need to pull the fenders to remove the inners.
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09-05-2004, 10:43 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Detroit Lakes, Minnesota
Posts: 885
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cool, thanks a lot. i think thats the fastest ive ever seen someone post! thank you!
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1971 k5 blazer 80k mike survivor 1972 3/4 ton 4wd Cummins 12v 1967 swb 2wd 427bbc 1968 4wd shortbox 1971 Cheyenne swb k10 unrestored 1971 Cheyenne super 40k 402bb survivor 1967 Chevy k10 (first truck) 1968 L78 camaro survivor 18k miles 1969 z28 survivor 60k miles 1969 z28 survivor 39k miles 1969 z28 rs survivor 80k miles |
09-05-2004, 11:28 PM | #4 |
"Ochre Ogre"
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Springfield, MN
Posts: 3,558
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First off look at the location of the person telling you you won't need to remove the fenders....Texas......They don't have Minnesota lock-tite on all their nuts and bolts. I just removed all the good parts off a TX long step last week. Everything came off with a standard 1/2" drive ratchet. All I can say is God bless Texas! If you get lucky you will be able to remove the inner fenders, but there will be that one captive nut that spins loose and it will be the one you can't get a vise grip on because of it's awkward location.
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Bowtie Truck Stop Inc. Mid-West GM Truck Restoration Parts Supplier Your Key Parts, Auto Metal Direct, Dynacorn, and Goodmark dealer. like us @ www.facebook.com/BowtieTruckStop 1971 C-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1971 K-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1972 C-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1972 K-20 Suburban (Yellow- that just aint right!) Springfield, Minnesota 56087 |
09-06-2004, 12:03 AM | #5 |
JB-80 "Twice as Good"
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Central, MN
Posts: 354
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I just did this, and Da-burb is right!! Sawzall is the answer for that one bolt!
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09-06-2004, 12:10 AM | #6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: LINDEN, TN.
Posts: 260
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I had to take the grinder to mine I had 3 that just spun and spun! No loctite here just pure rust!
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09-06-2004, 12:46 AM | #7 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,690
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There IS a huge difference in the tx trucks and the northern stuff. I'm suprised da-burb needed a 1/2 inch ratchet...I only needed a 3/8 one when I stripped my Longhorn.
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09-06-2004, 06:10 AM | #8 |
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Washington State
Posts: 8,831
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Didn't have any problems with mine, all bolts were easy to get too.
Just took the wheels off first, removed the bolts and dropped the inner wells out.
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1970 Chev CST 2003 Harley Fatboy 1975 Chevrolet Step Van 1956 Chev Bel Air 1977 Blazer 2WD For Sale $3000.00 1978 Blazer 2WD For Sale $7000.00 1978 Silverado 2005 Monte Carlo |
09-06-2004, 08:40 AM | #9 |
"Ochre Ogre"
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Springfield, MN
Posts: 3,558
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Longhorn Man, I guess I didn't even try the 3/8" drive. I was just surprised I didn't need the 4 foot breaker bar or the hot wrench even once. It must be funny as all heck in the rust free states to watch vehicles drive by. All sorts of things must just fall off as you go down the road due to the lack of rust in the threads keeping all the nuts on where they belong.
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Bowtie Truck Stop Inc. Mid-West GM Truck Restoration Parts Supplier Your Key Parts, Auto Metal Direct, Dynacorn, and Goodmark dealer. like us @ www.facebook.com/BowtieTruckStop 1971 C-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1971 K-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1972 C-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1972 K-20 Suburban (Yellow- that just aint right!) Springfield, Minnesota 56087 |
09-06-2004, 09:10 AM | #10 |
I am a Referee of life.
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Greensboro N.C.
Posts: 13,992
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Knowing da-burb he just naturally grabbed for the minnersoter light rachet set.He's so used to stuff that has layered rust he doesn't realize that some things do unbolt just like the factory intended.
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09-11-2004, 08:37 PM | #11 |
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posts: 663
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You think Minnisota rust is bad...try working with Canadian rust! I think one or two of mine came off with the ratchet. The rest were grider meat. The funny thing is that the ones that are rusted the worst are a bit easier because you can snap the bolt with a breaker bar.
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Present: 2015 Tacoma. Yeah, not a GM, but I love it. 1969 GMC 32,000 - fix, drive, relax, fix... 2019 BMW R1250 GSA - Yahoooooooo 1979 Honda GL 1000 - retro touring at its best. Past: '05 Sierra 4x4 - Had 270,000 KM and running well when it was written-off by a stop sign runner. '94 F-150 from the "F word" company. I'll admit it...good truck. Sold what was left of it for $800 to a guy who came to pick it up at 11:00 PM with cash in hand. Hmm. '79 Sierra Grande (Black) organ donor - perfect rebuildable 4-bolt 350 and a good TH350. '76 Sierra Grande (Orange) - hate isn't too strong a word. Kid who bought it turned it into a hot rod. '68 C-10 R.I.P. - Dad's old truck...too far gone to resurrect. '59 C-50 - with hoist. Truck is gone, wife isn't. Nuff said. |
09-11-2004, 11:04 PM | #12 |
huh?
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Washington, Illinois
Posts: 5,690
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I don't even wanna talk about the ones on my '67 panel truck. Not one of the damn bolts would come out..... What a pain in the butt. Gotta love salt-induced rust!!
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