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02-20-2004, 06:19 PM | #1 |
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Blue/white smoke on startup
For the last two weeks my '87 GMC 350 TBI has been blowing bluish/white smoke (burning oil, right?) on startup. It's never done it before. It also takes tries to get it started most of the time. Didn't know if the two could be related. Anyone have any suggestions on what the cause might be?? Any help or suggestions are greatly appreciated!!
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1987 GMC 1500 5.7L 1985 Chevy 3/4 4X4 2001 Chevy 2500 HD 4X4 2007 Chevy 3500 Duramax 4X4 |
02-20-2004, 06:21 PM | #2 |
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valves need reseated. Around $150.
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Robert Current: 1986 SWB Silverado 4.3 / TH400 Past: 1985 SWB Silverado 305 / TH350 - sold 1995 1987 1/2 ton Silverado - FI 350 / 700R4 sold 2007 |
02-20-2004, 06:22 PM | #3 |
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Sounds like bad valve stem seals, very common for them to go bad. Most likely the two are not related.
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1985 Scottsdale Shortbed 4x4 Stout 350 with some "upgrades"-700r4-33x12.5" Mud Tires, Warn 8274-50 winch. 2005 Chevrolet Colorado Regular Cab 2wd 4-banger, 5 speed, Street Pack with 3.73 axle. |
02-20-2004, 06:24 PM | #4 |
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I had the intake gaskets replaced. Didn''t do it myself, though I should have. Would this be related or not. Maybe aren't sealed good?? Just checking. Thanks for the input so far!!
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1987 GMC 1500 5.7L 1985 Chevy 3/4 4X4 2001 Chevy 2500 HD 4X4 2007 Chevy 3500 Duramax 4X4 |
03-20-2004, 11:13 PM | #5 |
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Likely sound like bad valve stem seals, possiable worn be loose guides, either change the seals, fairly easy, or take the heads off and get them redone and 3 angle valve job.
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09-29-2004, 09:12 PM | #6 |
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how do I go about replacing the seals? I'm not a complete idiot. I do have some smarts just not sure where to start.
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1987 GMC 1500 5.7L 1985 Chevy 3/4 4X4 2001 Chevy 2500 HD 4X4 2007 Chevy 3500 Duramax 4X4 |
09-29-2004, 10:03 PM | #7 |
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take the heads off and have a machine shop do it. its cheap.
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09-29-2004, 10:38 PM | #8 |
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Thanks!
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1987 GMC 1500 5.7L 1985 Chevy 3/4 4X4 2001 Chevy 2500 HD 4X4 2007 Chevy 3500 Duramax 4X4 |
09-30-2004, 12:13 AM | #9 |
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You dont have to remove the heads its not that hard. You just need some tools and an air compressor. If you feel comfortable with doing valve lash, have a spring compressor tool and some time it can be done easily over a weekend. Removing the head is a little over kill and way more involved. I can see if you need valve guides or the valve seats cleaned up but other than that I dont see a need. I would do the valve seals first to see if helps, it will probably fix it.
You need an air chuck tool that screws into the cylinder head where the sparkplug goes. This gets hooked up to the air compressor (filled with compressed air) it will keep the valve(s) from falling down into the cylinder. You work one cylinder at a time. Remove the rocker arms, compress the valve spring, remove the keepers, take the valve spring off, remove the valve seal, install the new seal and put it back together. After all of them are done you need to do the valve lash for all the cylinders. You want to keep everything in order and make sure it goes back where it was taken from.
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1974 C25 LWB: 454 4bbl Carb / TH400 / 3.73 1992 Camaro RS 305 TBI Last edited by MylilBowTie; 09-30-2004 at 12:30 AM. |
09-30-2004, 12:34 AM | #10 |
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You need to get a special tool that has the same threads as a spark plug on one side, and a quick connect fitting on the other side, you stick the one end into the spark plug wire, the other end you attach to your air compressor. This holds the valves up when you take the retainers and stuff off when you replace the seal. You'll also need a valve spring compressor to get the valve springs off as well. Not sure what else may be involved, but I gotta do the same thing to my truck soon too...
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1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap) |
09-30-2004, 09:33 AM | #11 |
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If you don't have a compressor, I have heard that you can do the job by filling the cylinder with enough rope (push it through the spark plug hole) to keep the valve from falling out of the head. I have never tried it.
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09-30-2004, 10:59 AM | #12 | |
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Quote:
I have done it this way, but with a length of old spark plug wire. You have to make sure the piston is at the top on compression stroke then feed the wire in untill you cant get anymore in there. wiggle it around so you can get as much in as possible. then put the spring compressor on . if you dont have enough in there to hold the valve it will let you know, all you will do is push the valve down. Its not hard, if someone could show you on one valve spring, you would be able to do the rest.
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