steering is borked, help me fix it. - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

ocbaud · 10-02-2004, 01:49 AM

even after getting an alignment, my steering is still not right. it just doesnt feel like it should, and it kinda scares me

what steering parts do i need to replace that should help out? the tierod ends and ball joints will be replaced later when i rebuild the front end, but i want to replace some of the other stuff now.

idler arm?
pitman arm?

when i first lowered the truck, the place that aligned it didnt warrenty it becasue it had warn front end parts. looking at it now and then, it looks like the steering is whats worn out on it.

the steering feels really looser than it should be and its like the wheel is gonna fall off(not really, but i picture it happening)

low 84 · 10-02-2004, 08:36 AM

most likley the majority of your steering parts need replaced. when you put the 17's on it probly just amplified how you feel it in the steering wheel

88Jimmy4x4 · 10-02-2004, 08:50 AM

Could just be your not used to the new tires/wheels. Going from steelies to aluminum feels different...the new wheels are much lighter and the new tread pattern will make it feel different too. Hard to diagnose or make recommendations over the keyboard

ocbaud · 10-02-2004, 09:01 AM

actually, my old wheels were alum too.

and my new ones are quite a bit heavier also.

and it only started having crappy steering after i swapped spindles

cliffsta · 10-02-2004, 04:53 PM

well, you just said it, you swapped spindles and have bigger wheels. I don't remeber off hand how much bigger your total circumference of your wheels and tires is, but if its much bigger, then steering angles and what not changes. And lowering the truck even 1 inch more than it was will change the AoA.

ocbaud · 10-02-2004, 06:04 PM

the tires are actually 1" shorter.

low 84 · 10-02-2004, 07:36 PM

everything probly needs replaced under there and your better off just buying the kit and doing it all at the same time. replacing 2 or 3 out of 10 worn out parts isn't going to do you any good.

i did my steering box, pitman arm, idler arm, inner and outer tie rods, upper and lower ball joints, upper and lower control arm bushings. chances are you need most of the same stuff replaced.

85Silveradoin04 · 10-02-2004, 09:21 PM

Sorry for being off topic but --Ocbaud, did you convert the rear to disc brakes or are they drums still?

76HighSierra · 10-02-2004, 09:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ocbaud

even after getting an alignment, my steering is still not right. it just doesnt feel like it should, and it kinda scares me

what steering parts do i need to replace that should help out? the tierod ends and ball joints will be replaced later when i rebuild the front end, but i want to replace some of the other stuff now.

idler arm?
pitman arm?

when i first lowered the truck, the place that aligned it didnt warrenty it becasue it had warn front end parts. looking at it now and then, it looks like the steering is whats worn out on it.

the steering feels really looser than it should be and its like the wheel is gonna fall off(not really, but i picture it happening)

That's the alignment place's fault, anyways. They shouldn't have lined it up the first time, if it had worn front end parts. I don't know what the laws are in OK, but here in NM, it's illegal for a shop to line up a vehicle with worn front end parts.

10-02-2004, 01:49 AM	#1
ocbaud Garage Queen Material Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: USA Posts: 4,129	steering is borked, help me fix it. even after getting an alignment, my steering is still not right. it just doesnt feel like it should, and it kinda scares me what steering parts do i need to replace that should help out? the tierod ends and ball joints will be replaced later when i rebuild the front end, but i want to replace some of the other stuff now. idler arm? pitman arm? when i first lowered the truck, the place that aligned it didnt warrenty it becasue it had warn front end parts. looking at it now and then, it looks like the steering is whats worn out on it. the steering feels really looser than it should be and its like the wheel is gonna fall off(not really, but i picture it happening)

10-02-2004, 08:36 AM	#2
low 84 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 2,144	most likley the majority of your steering parts need replaced. when you put the 17's on it probly just amplified how you feel it in the steering wheel __________________ '51 F100, backhalf with a narrowed 9 and coil overs, 18.5" mickeys, monte front clip, +400" sbc in the works '05 1500 Crew Cab RIP '84 swb 5/7 drop, solid cammed 408 w/ fully ported dart heads, th350 w/ 10 inch hughes, 12 bolt w/ 3.73 richmonds and a locker '80 swb 4x4 in progress: 7" lift, 350 th350/np205, d44 and 1.5" ORD tie rod, 14BFF w/discs , armored diff covers, 40" MTR's

10-02-2004, 08:50 AM	#3
88Jimmy4x4 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: houston, texas Posts: 1,974	Could just be your not used to the new tires/wheels. Going from steelies to aluminum feels different...the new wheels are much lighter and the new tread pattern will make it feel different too. Hard to diagnose or make recommendations over the keyboard __________________ 2008 Silverado Z71 RCSB 1991 GMC Jimmy 4x4 1976 GMC Sierra C15 SWB

10-02-2004, 04:53 PM	#5
cliffsta Stepsides RULE Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Pineville, LA Posts: 1,921	well, you just said it, you swapped spindles and have bigger wheels. I don't remeber off hand how much bigger your total circumference of your wheels and tires is, but if its much bigger, then steering angles and what not changes. And lowering the truck even 1 inch more than it was will change the AoA. __________________ 1981 Chevy C10 Custom Deluxe Stepside 350 V8, headers, side exhausts, 3-speed auto SOLD 1980 Chevy C10 Custum Deluxe Stepside 305 V8, Edelbrock Performer Intake, Edelbrock 1406 600CFM 4-barrel, TH350C. Bent rod. SOLD 1984 GMC Sierra Classic Longbed 6.2L Diesel SOLD 2009 Kawasaki KLX-250S too many mods for this signature 1999 Honda Accord EX 4-cylinder, 17" Motegi Wheels 215/45/17 Sumitomo tires, Tein S-Tech lowering springs, KYB GR2 shocks, Acura TL 20mm rear swaybar, debadged, blackhoused headlights, Short-Ram Intake Cardomain of the Accord

10-02-2004, 07:36 PM	#7
low 84 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 2,144	everything probly needs replaced under there and your better off just buying the kit and doing it all at the same time. replacing 2 or 3 out of 10 worn out parts isn't going to do you any good. i did my steering box, pitman arm, idler arm, inner and outer tie rods, upper and lower ball joints, upper and lower control arm bushings. chances are you need most of the same stuff replaced. __________________ '51 F100, backhalf with a narrowed 9 and coil overs, 18.5" mickeys, monte front clip, +400" sbc in the works '05 1500 Crew Cab RIP '84 swb 5/7 drop, solid cammed 408 w/ fully ported dart heads, th350 w/ 10 inch hughes, 12 bolt w/ 3.73 richmonds and a locker '80 swb 4x4 in progress: 7" lift, 350 th350/np205, d44 and 1.5" ORD tie rod, 14BFF w/discs , armored diff covers, 40" MTR's

10-02-2004, 09:01 AM	#4
ocbaud Garage Queen Material Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: USA Posts: 4,129	actually, my old wheels were alum too. and my new ones are quite a bit heavier also. and it only started having crappy steering after i swapped spindles

10-02-2004, 06:04 PM	#6
ocbaud Garage Queen Material Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: USA Posts: 4,129	the tires are actually 1" shorter.

10-02-2004, 09:21 PM	#8
85Silveradoin04 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Posts: 64	Sorry for being off topic but --Ocbaud, did you convert the rear to disc brakes or are they drums still?



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