synthetic oil? - Page 2 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Longhorn Man · 08-27-2004, 11:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 68w/sbc406

you could change it at 6000 miles and change your filter at 3000

Kinda yes...kinda no.
The oil filters are made mostly for removing solid particles from the oil....it doesn't do much in the way of removing fuel and/or the acid the mixture creates.
But yes, you can extend the life of the synthetic a little in a carb'd engine by chainging the filter.

rustyg · 08-28-2004, 07:24 AM

I run Amsoil in everything I own, my worktruck has a dual filter system mounted on the inner fender. I change one filter at 15k and then both of them again at 30k with new oil, Sounds crazy yes, I had my oil analyzed by a lab for the first year and they recommended I still run the oil after 30k ! I still change at 30k on that truck, 120,000 to date, runs like new. also run it in the wifes ride so I only have to change oil once a year/filter twice, she only racks up 12.5k annually. Run the same oil in my Harley crankcase/primary/trans, I used to buy three different oils from harley for this, normal nominal gains in power/mileage but the shifting is night and day. I've read numerous independent lab tests on oils head to head, amsoil always outperforms all other oils, read up.

70c10 · 08-28-2004, 10:07 AM

I saw full synthetic oil last year at Wal-Mart for $1.89. Is this any good?

grayw0lf · 08-28-2004, 11:18 AM

Unless you often run near red line or really get on it when pulling a 10 ton trailer, what oil you run makes little difference as long as its changed regularly.

The bottom line for any case is just to change the oil regularly, before it breaks down, before its completely contaminated.

Just my $0.002 cents.

Longhorn Man · 08-28-2004, 07:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by grayw0lf

Unless you often run near red line or really get on it when pulling a 10 ton trailer, what oil you run makes little difference as long as its changed regularly.

The bottom line for any case is just to change the oil regularly, before it breaks down, before its completely contaminated.

Just my $0.002 cents.

I guess the 2.5 million dollar lab that we work with is staffed with idiots huh?
Whiloe you are right, draining your oil on a regular basis IS good....synthetic has been PROVEN time and time again to extend the life of any engine, regardless of use. (as long as use is within the mechanical abilitys)

sbc350gearhead · 10-04-2004, 07:53 PM

True synthetics are more shear stable, handle extreme temps better, are pure with no contaminants, generally have a higher TBN for extended drain capability and often have higher levels of friction modifiers for fuel economy. An engine run on synthetics often will be cleaner after many many miles, than an engine run on conventional. Mobil 1 is one of the best API approved synthetics on the market. Non API approved synthetics (amsoil, RP racing, redline, etc) usually have higher levels of anti wear agents that keeps them from passing the API spec. Higher levels of phosphorus (used in ZDDP, which is a common anti-wear agent used in 99.9 percent of motor oils) are believed to cause damage to catalytic convertors, and therefore, non API approved oils will void your warranty on a new vehicle (for those of you without cats......go for it). There is no one synthetic that is the best. Certain oils produce superior results in certain engines.

67chevemall · 10-04-2004, 11:52 PM

I think Dino is the way to go!
It isn't the oil it is the motor engineering that contaminates the oil!
Our motors do a great job of this!

Yes, you are no doubt starting a long thread/debate with this subject. I just want to say that regular oil does NOT wear out--it becomes contaminated--------and so does synthetic oil. Therefore, what advantage does synthetic have for our usage? Beats me. Yes, it will handle somewhat higher temperature--so what? I run a 190 degree thermostat and normal oil handles that just fine. Supposedly you can use synthetic for greater mileage between oil changes--why? Does it become less contaminated with gasoline by-products, water, carbon, dirty air? Noooo?
Has it been proven to lubricate bearing surfaces better? No? How about the asinine idea that you only change the filter and one quart of synthetic oil when you change it? Now there's a winner! What kind of warped justification is there for that philosophy? The fact that it is 'way overpriced perhaps? I could go on & on and I'm sure that I'll be flamed by those that delight in spending $6 a qt. for this stuff. After all, if it costs more it's got to be better, right?
__________________
Smitty

71-longbed · 10-05-2004, 12:22 AM

RIGHT ON 67chevemall !!!

.... Let em have it... If synthetic was the same price as regular oil .. i'd try it and observe the difference ... Until that day comes .. dino is fine

Longhorn Man · 10-05-2004, 12:43 AM

do your homework, read what there is out there, esp from independate labs.
Snake oil doesn't stay in the spot light very long. look at the slick50 crap. While it is still on the shelf at K Mart, it is not talked about and raved and no one swears by it. No independant labs did in the first place, only ppl on there pay roll.
It isn't like that with the synthetic oil. Independant labs don't lie, and the data that I have seen my self doesn't lie.
Chainge can be a *****, but it is normally for the better.
how many older ppl on here wanted to throw away there HEI when they first saw it? I know lots of them were swapped out for a 'good' points set up. I've even seen articles on it in hot rod mags. Not many ppl doing that anymore huh?
Read up, find out the facts...this stuff is better than any dino oil ever was, and will ever be. Period.

08-28-2004, 07:24 AM	#27
rustyg Registered User Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Gap-Pa. Posts: 186	I run Amsoil in everything I own, my worktruck has a dual filter system mounted on the inner fender. I change one filter at 15k and then both of them again at 30k with new oil, Sounds crazy yes, I had my oil analyzed by a lab for the first year and they recommended I still run the oil after 30k ! I still change at 30k on that truck, 120,000 to date, runs like new. also run it in the wifes ride so I only have to change oil once a year/filter twice, she only racks up 12.5k annually. Run the same oil in my Harley crankcase/primary/trans, I used to buy three different oils from harley for this, normal nominal gains in power/mileage but the shifting is night and day. I've read numerous independent lab tests on oils head to head, amsoil always outperforms all other oils, read up. __________________ 71 k10 swb 72 k5 72 Burb 4x4 72 GMC Burb 4x4

08-28-2004, 10:07 AM	#28
70c10 67-72 Addict! Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: The TAX State! Posts: 7,856	I saw full synthetic oil last year at Wal-Mart for $1.89. Is this any good? __________________ Jim 1970 C/10 Fleetside w/Ghost Flames Lowered 4.5" front and 4" rear (Raked) 355/350 Turbo w/shift kit 10" Redneck Performance Verter w/2500 stall Hooker Super Comps part#2808-1 Performer RPM Air-Gap 12 Bolt w/3:73 gears- Eaton Posi Comp Cams XE262 with 1.6 Crane Energizers, Road Demon 625 and Brodix IK 180 heads

08-28-2004, 11:18 AM	#29
grayw0lf Registered User Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Clanton, AL Posts: 1,253	Unless you often run near red line or really get on it when pulling a 10 ton trailer, what oil you run makes little difference as long as its changed regularly. The bottom line for any case is just to change the oil regularly, before it breaks down, before its completely contaminated. Just my $0.002 cents. __________________ 85' CUCV M1009!!! The newest addition! 6.2diesel, Th400, NP208, & only 36k miles! 70' C-10 LWB Fleetside - Looking good these days! 05' Dodge Neon 88' Winner Escape Sport 1750 - 4.3v6 94' Seadoo SP 84' Honda TRX200, bare nekkid. Just a frame & tires. Always looking for another project or any good deal!

10-04-2004, 11:52 PM	#32
67chevemall Registered User Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: NB Posts: 3,367	I think Dino is the way to go! It isn't the oil it is the motor engineering that contaminates the oil! Our motors do a great job of this! Yes, you are no doubt starting a long thread/debate with this subject. I just want to say that regular oil does NOT wear out--it becomes contaminated--------and so does synthetic oil. Therefore, what advantage does synthetic have for our usage? Beats me. Yes, it will handle somewhat higher temperature--so what? I run a 190 degree thermostat and normal oil handles that just fine. Supposedly you can use synthetic for greater mileage between oil changes--why? Does it become less contaminated with gasoline by-products, water, carbon, dirty air? Noooo? Has it been proven to lubricate bearing surfaces better? No? How about the asinine idea that you only change the filter and one quart of synthetic oil when you change it? Now there's a winner! What kind of warped justification is there for that philosophy? The fact that it is 'way overpriced perhaps? I could go on & on and I'm sure that I'll be flamed by those that delight in spending $6 a qt. for this stuff. After all, if it costs more it's got to be better, right? __________________ Smitty __________________ 1968 Chevy C10 307 3ott fleetside 1967 Chevy C/10 V8, 3spd, fleetside lwb.Sold 1967 Chev C/10 step, 383, M21. SOLD

10-05-2004, 12:22 AM	#33
71-longbed Its Magically Delicious Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: oregon Posts: 2,398	RIGHT ON 67chevemall !!! .... Let em have it... If synthetic was the same price as regular oil .. i'd try it and observe the difference ... Until that day comes .. dino is fine __________________ 71 C10 LWB 350sbc -TH350 12 bolt 3.42 Posi Of all my favorite things to do, The utmost is to have a brew. My love grows for my foamy friend, with each thirst-quenching elbow bend. Beer so frosty, smooth, and cold it's paradise pure liquid gold. Yes beer means many things to me that's all for now cus I gotta pee.

10-04-2004, 07:53 PM	#31
sbc350gearhead Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Columbus Ohio Posts: 1,413	True synthetics are more shear stable, handle extreme temps better, are pure with no contaminants, generally have a higher TBN for extended drain capability and often have higher levels of friction modifiers for fuel economy. An engine run on synthetics often will be cleaner after many many miles, than an engine run on conventional. Mobil 1 is one of the best API approved synthetics on the market. Non API approved synthetics (amsoil, RP racing, redline, etc) usually have higher levels of anti wear agents that keeps them from passing the API spec. Higher levels of phosphorus (used in ZDDP, which is a common anti-wear agent used in 99.9 percent of motor oils) are believed to cause damage to catalytic convertors, and therefore, non API approved oils will void your warranty on a new vehicle (for those of you without cats......go for it). There is no one synthetic that is the best. Certain oils produce superior results in certain engines.

10-05-2004, 12:43 AM	#34
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,690	do your homework, read what there is out there, esp from independate labs. Snake oil doesn't stay in the spot light very long. look at the slick50 crap. While it is still on the shelf at K Mart, it is not talked about and raved and no one swears by it. No independant labs did in the first place, only ppl on there pay roll. It isn't like that with the synthetic oil. Independant labs don't lie, and the data that I have seen my self doesn't lie. Chainge can be a *****, but it is normally for the better. how many older ppl on here wanted to throw away there HEI when they first saw it? I know lots of them were swapped out for a 'good' points set up. I've even seen articles on it in hot rod mags. Not many ppl doing that anymore huh? Read up, find out the facts...this stuff is better than any dino oil ever was, and will ever be. Period.



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