clutch no work, i think - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

atcavage · 10-08-2004, 02:37 PM

Today as I was going to class, I slowed down to stop and the clutch dropped to the floor. It wouldn't come up and the shifter locked up. Predicitibly it stalled, but I managed to get the shifter free and shifting normally. I got it in neutral and it ran, but Campus Police had to push me out of traffic and into the parking lot. Tow truck driver was very nice, and he thought that the clutch return spring broke, and/or the cable. The clutch has been groaning in the past, but a little oil fixed that. I don't know if that had anything to do with it. I can pull the clutch up by hand, and it says up, but if I push it it falls back to the floor. I did have a really stiff clutch, any ideas? I want a clue before I have to have it towed to a shop. Thanks.

DMNCLNR · 10-08-2004, 02:50 PM

Did you check the shift rod? It connects to the arm that goes inside the bell housing. Mine used to come off peroidically. If you check there, and its all together, have someone push the clutch in, sounds like a bent arm, or bad throwout bearing to me!

atcavage · 10-08-2004, 03:07 PM

I think the connector for the push rod actually broke off, and the fork rod busted. I don't know much about this stuff, so I will take another look. I am going to try and post some pictures so somebody can look and see what's wrong. Thank God for AAA.

Longhorn Man · 10-08-2004, 08:47 PM

I have seen the Z bar break on more than one truck.
Did it go with a pop or bang...or was it quiet when it went?

68C15 · 10-08-2004, 09:49 PM

it sounds like your Z bar balls got dry & siezed up. then the bar broke. am I close? where are you from? I have the whole shebang from my 68 250 if you are anywhere close to me & interested. otherwise try the dealer. you may be suprised.

mr402 · 10-08-2004, 10:27 PM

I've had a few problem with the rod that goes from the clutch pedal down to the Z bar. When ever it came loose it did exaclty as you describe. Finally fixed it with some stainless washers and a hitch pin.

Brainchild · 10-08-2004, 10:35 PM

A little grease on the ends of the linkages goes a long way against preventing this type of thing next time.Metal to metal somethings gonna give eventually

68w/sbc406 · 10-08-2004, 11:50 PM

one of the balls broke off of the frame mount on mine. i just welded it back up and added new grease and "OH" rings. worked fine after that

jimfulco · 10-09-2004, 02:12 AM

Bypass the clutch idiot-switch & learn to dry-shift. It's way cheaper than a tow truck.

**'68OrangeSunshine** · 10-09-2004, 03:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 68C15

it sounds like your Z bar balls got dry & siezed up. then the bar broke. am I close? where are you from? I have the whole shebang from my 68 250 if you are anywhere close to me & interested. otherwise try the dealer. you may be suprised.

FYI, the L6 and V8 Z-bars are different.

**'68OrangeSunshine** · 10-09-2004, 06:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Putter

If I may jump in for a second....How are they different? I am about to go V-8 but will be keeping my 3-speed a little while longer. What all has to be changed out? Thanks.

I think the L6 Z-bar is about 1-1/2" wider. I'd need a day off to measure the Z-bars on my 292 and 350 trucks. The tubular part is the same diameter, but longer on one of them. I think the "ears" (levers) are the same length and at the same angles, but this is another dimension to look at. The L6 uses a straighter (upper) clutch (push) rod. The V8 clutch push rod has a 30 degree bend to it. The (lower) clutch (fork) rod is the same. The frame side Z-bar pivot ball is the same, but the V8 requires a ballstud threaded into the block, whereas the L6 has a strap iron bracket (w/ attached ballstud) that bolts onto the inline block w/2 3/8" bolts. Otherwise they're the same.

Putter · 10-09-2004, 08:55 AM

If I may jump in for a second....How are they different? I am about to go V-8 but will be keeping my 3-speed a little while longer. What all has to be changed out? Thanks.

**CPNE** · 10-09-2004, 09:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Putter

If I may jump in for a second....How are they different? I am about to go V-8 but will be keeping my 3-speed a little while longer. What all has to be changed out? Thanks.

Depends upon where you locate the V8. When put in the factory (forward) position, the entire linkage changes.

This includes:

1. rod thru firewall to clutch pedal
2. z-bar frame bracket
3. z-bar
4. engine ball stud/bracket

The only item that may not change is the rod to the clutch fork.

I've done this exact swap. Once you have all the factory correct parts and have the engine in the factory position, there is zero fabrication or other headaches to deal with.

That is not to say you can't engineer something from the parts you have and have a working reliable linkage.

10-08-2004, 02:37 PM	#1
atcavage Registered User Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Camarillo, Ca Posts: 79	major clutch linkage problems Today as I was going to class, I slowed down to stop and the clutch dropped to the floor. It wouldn't come up and the shifter locked up. Predicitibly it stalled, but I managed to get the shifter free and shifting normally. I got it in neutral and it ran, but Campus Police had to push me out of traffic and into the parking lot. Tow truck driver was very nice, and he thought that the clutch return spring broke, and/or the cable. The clutch has been groaning in the past, but a little oil fixed that. I don't know if that had anything to do with it. I can pull the clutch up by hand, and it says up, but if I push it it falls back to the floor. I did have a really stiff clutch, any ideas? I want a clue before I have to have it towed to a shop. Thanks. __________________ 1972 1/2 ton Chevy C10 V-8 350, crate engine, with Flomaster dual exhaust. She's Old Blue the Truckinator (no relation to Arnold ) Last edited by atcavage; 10-08-2004 at 03:42 PM.

10-08-2004, 02:50 PM	#2
DMNCLNR Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Orange County Cali Posts: 258	Did you check the shift rod? It connects to the arm that goes inside the bell housing. Mine used to come off peroidically. If you check there, and its all together, have someone push the clutch in, sounds like a bent arm, or bad throwout bearing to me! __________________ 64 caravelle camper 58 Vert bug 64 SS nova for sale 14k http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums...ad.php?t=46362 Wanted: any early V.Ws any condition!

10-08-2004, 03:07 PM	#3
atcavage Registered User Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Camarillo, Ca Posts: 79	I think the connector for the push rod actually broke off, and the fork rod busted. I don't know much about this stuff, so I will take another look. I am going to try and post some pictures so somebody can look and see what's wrong. Thank God for AAA. Attached Images __________________ 1972 1/2 ton Chevy C10 V-8 350, crate engine, with Flomaster dual exhaust. She's Old Blue the Truckinator (no relation to Arnold )

10-08-2004, 09:49 PM	#5
68C15 blood type; Retumbo Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: next to my reloading bench Posts: 10,269	it sounds like your Z bar balls got dry & siezed up. then the bar broke. am I close? where are you from? I have the whole shebang from my 68 250 if you are anywhere close to me & interested. otherwise try the dealer. you may be suprised. __________________ Man rule #77...if you own a 67 stepside with a caddy 472 you will never be in danger of loosing you man card

10-08-2004, 10:35 PM	#7
Brainchild Still drivin' a Rat Rod Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Monett Missouri Posts: 4,925	A little grease on the ends of the linkages goes a long way against preventing this type of thing next time.Metal to metal somethings gonna give eventually __________________ Rusty Member #13872 Instead of saying.....you are a discomfort in the back of my front.....one should be able to say...... you are a pain in the a$# 71 GMC LWB 49 Chevy 85 Chevy G20 Check out my website

10-08-2004, 08:47 PM	#4
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	I have seen the Z bar break on more than one truck. Did it go with a pop or bang...or was it quiet when it went?

10-08-2004, 10:27 PM	#6
mr402 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Elmira, Oregon Posts: 449	I've had a few problem with the rod that goes from the clutch pedal down to the Z bar. When ever it came loose it did exaclty as you describe. Finally fixed it with some stainless washers and a hitch pin.

10-08-2004, 11:50 PM	#8
68w/sbc406 Got Light Emitting Diode? Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Newberg, OR Posts: 2,485	one of the balls broke off of the frame mount on mine. i just welded it back up and added new grease and "OH" rings. worked fine after that __________________ 1968 1/2 ton 2wd lwb 6 lug disc and bags up front. Next c notch and rear bags '02 Chevy Silverado LT ext cab short bed 2WD 5/7 drop on 22's(the family car) 1993 Cherokee work ride/weekend wheeler

10-09-2004, 02:12 AM	#9
jimfulco Registered User Join Date: May 2003 Location: Shreveport LA Posts: 3,170	Bypass the clutch idiot-switch & learn to dry-shift. It's way cheaper than a tow truck.

10-09-2004, 08:55 AM	#12
Putter More Cowbell.... Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Puckett, MS Posts: 3,569	If I may jump in for a second....How are they different? I am about to go V-8 but will be keeping my 3-speed a little while longer. What all has to be changed out? Thanks. __________________ *There once was a member from Puckett.....Who ( fill in the blank blank blank* ) bucket**



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