The Frame Is Almost Finished (Pics)

[jugernot]

Powder coated satin black, motor, trans, aluminum drive shaft, 12 bolt posi rear end. I just have to install the stainless brake lines, steel braided brake hoses, and the emergency brake cable. It has taken four years to get to this point, but I am happy with the way it has turned out. I owe a big thanks to my wife for letter me have this toy. I just dropped the cab off at the body shop to have the rust in the front window sill, floors and rockers fixed. Hopefully I will have it done before my six month old daughter graduates from high school.

I bought the stainless brake lines from classic industries. There are about six pieces, done anyone have a diagram or something on how the go together?

[raphyel]

That looks nice. I really enjoy seeing someone take the time to do all that you have done. I am doing a 63 with a total frame off. I finished my frame a few months back and am in the process of finishing the bodywork on the cab and bed. I am going with a pontiac 400 though for the powerplant. But yeah that's awesome. MAN KEEP YOUR WIFE everyone cant do that!

Raphyel

[djracer]

how expensive was the driveshaft?

[jugernot]

Thanks for the compliments. I bought the drive shaft about 6 months ago, without digging through my stack of receipts, I thinks it was about $350-$390.

[Brainchild]

Looks great.Noting like a tubbed and narrowed ride for intimidation

[Smokin72on20s]

what all did you powdercoat? how much was that? how do you like it?

[jugernot]

I took apart the entire frame, front x-member, trans x-member, A-arms. These pieces were media blasted $300.00, them taken to the powder coater, $450.00. There are some pice of the pieces after they were blasted and before powder coating. I also had the front sway bar and fan powder coated.

[jugernot]

I orginally painted the frame in my garge, but hated the way it looked. As for the powder coating, its beautiful. The guy that did the work put two coats on for no extra charge.

It has been sitting in my garage for about six months and was covered with dust. I took an old t-shirt, wiped the dust off and it looked like I just got it from the shop. I would recomend powder coating over painting.

[Smokin72on20s]

is media blasting the same as sand blasting only that they use plastic instead of sand?

[jugernot]

Yes, they also use walnut shell, and glass beads, as well as other material. I depends on what surface is being blastered and if you want to go to bare metal or not.

[Putter]

Hey Jugernot,
How about a closer shot if the bed floor. Is that diamond tread? Looks good from here. Did you bend it yourself?

[lost wages]

looks good, what are you doing for the driveshaft to clear the the carrier bearing mount? it looks close.

[jugernot]

Yes the bed is diamond plate, I know someone who, had the equipment to bend and roll the aluminum.

There is a little over an inch around the drive shaft, so it is clear of the x-member.

[incoma]

I also had my frame and entire underside powder coated. Instead of media blasting, they had a 4 part acid bath. It neutralized any rust, and cleaned everything off of the metal. Only problem with the dip is that it cleaned areas we can't see, or paint... I didn't think of that before I had it dipped...

Powdercoating rocks!! We used a nylon based coat that's really flexible. I had an extra piece coated just so I could play with it. I hit it with a hammer and the powder actually bunched up like it was rubber! I thought that was great! Everyone says that powder will chip, and fail after a few years. I don't think it will, and as jugernot says, it cleans up sooooo easy. I had 3 months dust and dirt and even some brake fluid and it wiped right off. I highly recommend it. I think my entire chassis (all parts) was $850.. Oh yeah, that included the inner fenders and the radiator support too.

[jugernot]

Putter,

Here is a pic of the diamond plate floor. I have to make some adjustments and then have the pieces welded together.

[REPO1]

That is sweet as hell! I love the tubbed look. Any more detailed pics of the rear? I'm curious how you built the rear of the frame rails and such. What size of tires & rims?


Reid

[jugernot]

The tires are 33x19.5x15, the rims are 15x10 I think. The back half of the frame is from Chirs Alliston.

[REPO1]

Originally Posted by jugernot

The tires are 33x19.5x15, the rims are 15x10 I think. The back half of the frame is from Chirs Alliston.

How much did that kit set you back? Did it come with the rims/tires?

[jugernot]

When I bought the truck the previous owner had attached the chassis, rear end, and tire. But he did it wrong, so I bought new stuff and had to it redone. The only thing I bought was the frame rails and x-members. I did have the rear end rebuilt and switched to posi $650.

[chevjayfsd]

Whats the specs on the motor?

Sweet so far!!

[jugernot]

It is a 68 327, bores .30 over. It has forged 10.5:1 pistons, steel crank, pete jackson gear drive, edelbrock preformer rpm cam and intake, edelbrock 750cfm carb, crane roller rockers, weiland aluminum water pump. ceramic coated headers, 3 inch exhaust, flowmaster delta 40 mufflers. I am not sure how much horse power it will put out.

[FRENCHBLUE72]

That is gonna be a sweet truck when you get er done very nice chassis you have put together...

[guyryan100]

but what are you going to do for traction? :-)

[LONGHAIR]

That does look great......but I'm with Lost Wages on the clearence issue.
An inch "static" is plenty, but after the bed/body is on it and the you hit a dip or bump.....
You need to have you bump-stops set to keep the crossmember from hitting the driveshaft.
At this point it should be pretty easy to support the frame and remove the shocks. Then you can drop the frame slowly and see what hits first. It's a lot cheaper to move bump-stops than replacing that shaft( and whatever else happens?)

[Longhorn Man]

Looking awsome.