How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 - Page 10 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

LONG 2B LOW · 05-10-2011, 10:54 PM

Wow! I have the same harbor freight gun and I could not get it to lay down that good as a matter of fact it ruined all my previous prep work!! Congrats on the success, what brand of paint are you using? Do you have any painting advice? I'm in the middle of rebuilding my 99 silverado after I rolled it and all that's left is paint.

Liking the build though it looks great keep up the good work
Posted via Mobile Device

gringoloco · 05-10-2011, 11:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zoomin

Impressive - and quick too. An average body man would have milked that for a few weeks.

Haha- no doubt- and charged out the wazoo! I was thinking today as I was grinding my welds that it would take a LOT of money for me to do this to someone else's truck... Thanks for the positive comments

Quote:

Originally Posted by LONG 2B LOW

Wow! I have the same harbor freight gun and I could not get it to lay down that good as a matter of fact it ruined all my previous prep work!! Congrats on the success, what brand of paint are you using? Do you have any painting advice? I'm in the middle of rebuilding my 99 silverado after I rolled it and all that's left is paint.

Liking the build though it looks great keep up the good work
Posted via Mobile Device

I am using Hot Rod Flatz from TCPGlobal. It is a single stage urethane. I have read where guys have a hard time getting this gun to lay clear. I did very little for gun set-up other than tweak the pattern and volume a little; it does seem to like a little more inlet pressure than other HVLP guns- around 50 psi. Also, try thinning if your paint is thick- my poly primer was spraying a little dry due to the viscosity (a bigger tip would likely fix this), but the color lays out like a dream. Good luck with your rebuild...

Slick67 · 05-11-2011, 09:24 AM

That really came out great!

**lolife99** · 05-09-2011, 06:19 PM

Gringoloco,... I have a repair panel for the "visor area" of your cab, that I don't need,... if you are interested.
Like this one:
http://www.topbananaparts.com/servle...y-inner/Detail

Jacfourteen · 05-09-2011, 09:11 PM

Ouch, Gotta hate those hidden gremlins!

gringoloco · 05-09-2011, 11:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VA72C10

Gotta love hidden surprises....and STUPID PO's

Wheeeeeee!!! Actually, it's not too bad- I've definitely seen worse- it's just that it was so easily preventable...

Quote:

Originally Posted by RatRod68

damn man. Sorry to hear that

Meh, no biggie. I knew the visor rust was there and had a good idea there would be some surprises behind the windshield gasket.

Quote:

Originally Posted by lolife99

Gringoloco,... I have a repair panel for the "visor area" of your cab, that I don't need,... if you are interested.
Like this one:
http://www.topbananaparts.com/servle...y-inner/Detail

Thanks for the offer

I have had one sitting here for a few years waiting to be installed. Finally got around to it today...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jacfourteen

Ouch, Gotta hate those hidden gremlins!

Yup- just glad it wasn't worse

gringoloco · 05-09-2011, 11:47 PM

Well, after removing the offending metal and cleaning up any signs of any sort of rust, then liberally coating it with rust inhibitor, I set to work on trimming the patch panel to fit. This little project is anti-fun. Between working overhead and the compound curvature of the area, it becomes an extreme pain to install the patch. After MUCH trimming, fitting, trimming, fitting, trimming, and fitting, I finally got it tacked-in place and looking decent. Did I mention, "what a pain"?

I have to give kudos to Tri-Plus on the patch panel- it is a quality piece- the perfect shape with plenty of extra to trim for fit, and heavier gauge metal than stock

**lolife99** · 05-10-2011, 12:40 AM

Man,... you do good work!

VA72C10 · 05-10-2011, 12:45 AM

very nicely done!!!

gringoloco · 05-10-2011, 09:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lolife99

Man,... you do good work!

Quote:

Originally Posted by VA72C10

very nicely done!!!

Thanks fellas! It's not perfect, but waaay better than before...

mcbassin · 05-10-2011, 11:13 AM

Wow! nice work on the rust repair! I love the PO conversation. No matter what year model bed they change it too, the original always looks better. Not a fan of interchanging beds unless it's 67-72. It's hard to believe that some shops do the things they do.

Slick67 · 05-10-2011, 12:06 PM

^^ x2

gringoloco · 05-10-2011, 02:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Wow! nice work on the rust repair! I love the PO conversation. No matter what year model bed they change it too, the original always looks better. Not a fan of interchanging beds unless it's 67-72. It's hard to believe that some shops do the things they do.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Slick67

^^ x2

Thanks guys

You should see the 'seam sealer' they used. I can't tell you how much blue silicone gasket maker I've dug out of nooks and crannies on this truck- they went crazy with it!

gringoloco · 05-10-2011, 10:23 PM

Today I managed to get a patch cut, formed, and welded in for the gaping hole in the windshield frame. Once this was in, I applied liberal amounts of seam sealer to the four windshield seams, as well as a few other areas that were in need of some sealant. Also finished welding the visor area patch (you can clearly see the relief cut I had to make to get the curves to align properly), spent a BUNCH of time grinding it smooth, then applied some epoxy primer. A skim coat of filler and it will be ready for some color

Zoomin · 05-10-2011, 10:53 PM

Impressive - and quick too. An average body man would have milked that for a few weeks.

Bennett68C10 · 05-11-2011, 10:25 AM

Wow, nice job looks great

dougminton · 05-11-2011, 11:44 AM

Much nicer looking now.

gringoloco · 05-11-2011, 04:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Slick67

That really came out great!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bennett--G4L

Wow, nice job looks great

Quote:

Originally Posted by dougminton

Much nicer looking now.

Thanks all!

I'll be much happier when it's all blue again, but with NO rust, which should be soon...

steppside69 · 05-11-2011, 09:17 PM

Just read through your build, SWEEEEEEEEEET!!!!!!!!!!!
I hope i can ruin my truck half as nice.
Eric

gringoloco · 05-12-2011, 12:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by steppside69

Just read through your build, SWEEEEEEEEEET!!!!!!!!!!!
I hope i can ruin my truck half as nice.
Eric

Thanks! Good luck with yours

gringoloco · 05-12-2011, 12:49 AM

So, the day started out not so great, as the epoxy primer I shot yesterday decided not to cure. Instead of being a nice, hard surface to start body work on, I had a gummy mess. I spent the better part of the morning cleaning that up and making a run to the paint store. Once that was out of the way, I started the body work on the visor area, and got it in a coat of poly primer for final wet-sanding before color...

While I was waiting for primer to dry, I got the bedside braces in- they had to be dropped the same amount as the 'body lift'- don't worry, I'll clean them up and paint them... I also used the extra body filler and primer from the visor area to do a little work on the bedside splice. It will require a little more work before paint, but is most of the way there

gringoloco · 05-12-2011, 01:06 AM

...and since the visor area was ready for paint, I decided to go ahead and shoot it

The blue I had mixed is juuuuuust slightly different than the color that was on the truck, but since it's inside and will not see sunlight, I don't think it will matter too much. I did my best to blend it- heck, I'm probably the only one that will be able to tell anyway...

Also got the clear sprayed. It did not lay down perfectly, partly due to shooting upside-down, mostly due to me being in a hurry, but that's ok, as it matches the rest of the orange peel

legendary · 05-12-2011, 08:14 AM

Awesome
This encourages me to go get started on my build....which is in the garage looking at me right now
Posted via Mobile Device

gringoloco · 05-12-2011, 09:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by legendary

Awesome
This encourages me to go get started on my build....which is in the garage looking at me right now
Posted via Mobile Device

Glad I can be of help, so get to it!

I'm about to...

**67cheby** · 05-12-2011, 10:33 AM

HOLY SMOKES.....your going so fast your making me DIZZY !!

05-10-2011, 10:54 PM	#1
LONG 2B LOW Registered User Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Phoenix AZ Posts: 15	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Wow! I have the same harbor freight gun and I could not get it to lay down that good as a matter of fact it ruined all my previous prep work!! Congrats on the success, what brand of paint are you using? Do you have any painting advice? I'm in the middle of rebuilding my 99 silverado after I rolled it and all that's left is paint. Liking the build though it looks great keep up the good work Posted via Mobile Device

05-11-2011, 09:24 AM	#3
Slick67 Sofa King Crazy!! Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 3,090	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 That really came out great! __________________ You found the Tater. *My Blazer Build (New)* - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=654650 *My 67 Build* - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=335650 67 Chevy LWB big window a/c AKA TOTALLED BY A JACKASS. 1972 2wd Blazer "Porterbuilt and Sloshed"

05-09-2011, 06:19 PM	#4
lolife99 67-72 parts collector,… Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Mid-MO Posts: 22,700	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Gringoloco,... I have a repair panel for the "visor area" of your cab, that I don't need,... if you are interested. Like this one: http://www.topbananaparts.com/servle...y-inner/Detail Attached Images __________________ Keith Convert to disc brakes. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444823

05-09-2011, 09:11 PM	#5
Jacfourteen Big Red - Now its a SWB! Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Oroville, Ca Posts: 1,624	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Ouch, Gotta hate those hidden gremlins! __________________ 68 3/4 ton (Project)-350 Small Block, .030 over, 10:1 comp, 3998993 heads, C3BX edelbrock intake, comp cams XE268, Holley 670 SA, long tube headers, dual flow 40's, E-fan, Alum rad, currently under the knife getting shortened and bagged build thread 41 3/4 ton (wife's)-flatbed, fully restored to original 01 Tahoe LT 4WD (my daily driver)-Magnaflow Muffler, Rollin on 22's 02 Ford Mustang Convertable (Wife's Car)-Flowmaster 50, Clear corners, Intake, sittin on 18's

05-09-2011, 11:47 PM	#7
gringoloco A guy with a truck Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Germany, for now Posts: 5,921	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Well, after removing the offending metal and cleaning up any signs of any sort of rust, then liberally coating it with rust inhibitor, I set to work on trimming the patch panel to fit. This little project is anti-fun. Between working overhead and the compound curvature of the area, it becomes an extreme pain to install the patch. After MUCH trimming, fitting, trimming, fitting, trimming, and fitting, I finally got it tacked-in place and looking decent. Did I mention, "what a pain"? I have to give kudos to Tri-Plus on the patch panel- it is a quality piece- the perfect shape with plenty of extra to trim for fit, and heavier gauge metal than stock Attached Images __________________ -Chris Instagram _elgringoloco_ '70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 ‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd '72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD) '72 Blazer 2WD How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer (SOLD) '05 Yukon Daily Driven (not so stock) Yukon (SOLD) ‘07 Yukon Denali (daily) Members met list: SCOTI, darkhorse970, 67cheby, 67cheby'sGirl, klmore, porterbuilt, n2billet, Fastrucken, classicchev, Col Clank, GSFMECH, HuggerCST, Spray-Bomb, BACKYARD88, 5150, fine69, fatbass, smbrouss70, 65StreetCruiser, GAc10boy

05-10-2011, 12:40 AM	#8
lolife99 67-72 parts collector,… Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Mid-MO Posts: 22,700	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Man,... you do good work! __________________ Keith Convert to disc brakes. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444823

05-10-2011, 12:45 AM	#9
VA72C10 VA72C10 Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Midlothian, VA Posts: 25,269	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 very nicely done!!! __________________ Looking for a 67-72 swb or blazer project in or around VA.

05-10-2011, 11:13 AM	#11
mcbassin Still Learning Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Central Oklahoma Posts: 10,108	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Wow! nice work on the rust repair! I love the PO conversation. No matter what year model bed they change it too, the original always looks better. Not a fan of interchanging beds unless it's 67-72. It's hard to believe that some shops do the things they do. __________________ Mike "69 Short Wide" My Project 86 Silverado Landen's Project Instagram: @mcbassin My Website C/10 Club Oklahoma Facebook Group

05-10-2011, 12:06 PM	#12
Slick67 Sofa King Crazy!! Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 3,090	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 ^^ x2 __________________ You found the Tater. *My Blazer Build (New)* - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=654650 *My 67 Build* - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=335650 67 Chevy LWB big window a/c AKA TOTALLED BY A JACKASS. 1972 2wd Blazer "Porterbuilt and Sloshed"

05-10-2011, 10:23 PM	#14
gringoloco A guy with a truck Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Germany, for now Posts: 5,921	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Today I managed to get a patch cut, formed, and welded in for the gaping hole in the windshield frame. Once this was in, I applied liberal amounts of seam sealer to the four windshield seams, as well as a few other areas that were in need of some sealant. Also finished welding the visor area patch (you can clearly see the relief cut I had to make to get the curves to align properly), spent a BUNCH of time grinding it smooth, then applied some epoxy primer. A skim coat of filler and it will be ready for some color Attached Images __________________ -Chris Instagram _elgringoloco_ '70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 ‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd '72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD) '72 Blazer 2WD How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer (SOLD) '05 Yukon Daily Driven (not so stock) Yukon (SOLD) ‘07 Yukon Denali (daily) Members met list: SCOTI, darkhorse970, 67cheby, 67cheby'sGirl, klmore, porterbuilt, n2billet, Fastrucken, classicchev, Col Clank, GSFMECH, HuggerCST, Spray-Bomb, BACKYARD88, 5150, fine69, fatbass, smbrouss70, 65StreetCruiser, GAc10boy

05-10-2011, 10:53 PM	#15
Zoomin Man of Mini-Talents Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Oklahoma City, OK Posts: 4,295	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Impressive - and quick too. An average body man would have milked that for a few weeks. __________________ Steve Project - Ruth 66 Skylark Project - Lola 60 Biscayne Project - Iron Ox 54 GMC 100 Project - Darth 69 Camaro

05-11-2011, 10:25 AM	#16
Bennett68C10 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Toms River, NJ Posts: 5,518	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Wow, nice job looks great __________________ Keith 66 Suburban Burb Build Thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=751361 IG: bennett68c10

05-11-2011, 11:44 AM	#17
dougminton Registered User Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: norman okahoma Posts: 269	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Much nicer looking now. __________________ The TEAL GMC build thread is HERE 1972 GMC SWB 454 oval ports TH400 fastest 1/4 mile time so far 13.05 @ 104 If you think you have too much horsepower you obviously have a traction problem !

05-11-2011, 09:17 PM	#19
steppside69 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Rossford,Ohio Posts: 291	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Just read through your build, SWEEEEEEEEEET!!!!!!!!!!! I hope i can ruin my truck half as nice. Eric __________________ 69 chevy stepside (project) 2006 Silverado Z71 Ext. cab 2005 Saturn VUE (wifes dd)

05-12-2011, 12:49 AM	#21
gringoloco A guy with a truck Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Germany, for now Posts: 5,921	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 So, the day started out not so great, as the epoxy primer I shot yesterday decided not to cure. Instead of being a nice, hard surface to start body work on, I had a gummy mess. I spent the better part of the morning cleaning that up and making a run to the paint store. Once that was out of the way, I started the body work on the visor area, and got it in a coat of poly primer for final wet-sanding before color... While I was waiting for primer to dry, I got the bedside braces in- they had to be dropped the same amount as the 'body lift'- don't worry, I'll clean them up and paint them... I also used the extra body filler and primer from the visor area to do a little work on the bedside splice. It will require a little more work before paint, but is most of the way there Attached Images __________________ -Chris Instagram _elgringoloco_ '70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 ‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd '72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD) '72 Blazer 2WD How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer (SOLD) '05 Yukon Daily Driven (not so stock) Yukon (SOLD) ‘07 Yukon Denali (daily) Members met list: SCOTI, darkhorse970, 67cheby, 67cheby'sGirl, klmore, porterbuilt, n2billet, Fastrucken, classicchev, Col Clank, GSFMECH, HuggerCST, Spray-Bomb, BACKYARD88, 5150, fine69, fatbass, smbrouss70, 65StreetCruiser, GAc10boy



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05-12-2011, 01:06 AM	#22
gringoloco A guy with a truck Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Germany, for now Posts: 5,921	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 ...and since the visor area was ready for paint, I decided to go ahead and shoot it The blue I had mixed is juuuuuust slightly different than the color that was on the truck, but since it's inside and will not see sunlight, I don't think it will matter too much. I did my best to blend it- heck, I'm probably the only one that will be able to tell anyway... Also got the clear sprayed. It did not lay down perfectly, partly due to shooting upside-down, mostly due to me being in a hurry, but that's ok, as it matches the rest of the orange peel Attached Images __________________ -Chris Instagram _elgringoloco_ '70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 ‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd '72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD) '72 Blazer 2WD How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer (SOLD) '05 Yukon Daily Driven (not so stock) Yukon (SOLD) ‘07 Yukon Denali (daily) Members met list: SCOTI, darkhorse970, 67cheby, 67cheby'sGirl, klmore, porterbuilt, n2billet, Fastrucken, classicchev, Col Clank, GSFMECH, HuggerCST, Spray-Bomb, BACKYARD88, 5150, fine69, fatbass, smbrouss70, 65StreetCruiser, GAc10boy

05-12-2011, 08:14 AM	#23
legendary Registered User Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Atlanta, GA Posts: 154	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Awesome This encourages me to go get started on my build....which is in the garage looking at me right now Posted via Mobile Device __________________ Best Regards, Leon 1970 C/10 LWB Cummins Turbo - Build in Progress Many other toys as well...

05-12-2011, 10:33 AM	#25
67cheby 67cheby Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: siloam springs ar 72761 Posts: 17,890	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 HOLY SMOKES.....your going so fast your making me DIZZY !! __________________ Check out Slosh Tubz, bolt-in inner fenders for frame laying C-10's Slosh Tubz Introductory Price $559 67 Cheby's Dropmember Build Thread Slosh Tubz on Facebook http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=554172

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