700R4 build thread.

[bry593]

Good advice. I have ordered the .088" Belleville, .077 plates and an additional friction.

One last question, during disassembly of this "rebuild gone bad", I noticed the servo return spring was missing. I am having a very difficult time trying to find a replacement. This is the spring that goes between the case and the servo assembly. No one seems to carry this, but all offer a "servo return spring" which turns out to be the little spring that comes in the seal kit. What part number should I be looking for? Why would a trans builder leave this spring out?

[clinebarger]

It needs the Servo return spring, Some builders omit, And some shift kits call for the omission. It doesn't do any good to leave it out!

You should be able to find a used one easy.....As 4L60E's use the same spring.

[bry593]

Not having any luck with the spring as of yet.

Other news: My fluid pump housing was badly gouged on one half and also the shaft had some wear at the converter bushings. I ordered a remanufactured 700r4 pump from Transmission Depot, but it is actually rebuilt by Dacco.

Upon opening the Dacco box, the first thing I notice is that the stator splines are worn half-way through. This is not an exageration. What should I do? Should I risk changing the stator shaft myself? I would think not, since TransDepot brags about how they resurface the pump perpendicular within .001" of the housing. Besides, if I open it up and find that Dacco has performed additional half-assed work, a return might be rejected.

Can anyone recommend a pump resurfacing company that will machine or grind my original housing?

[bry593]

Transmission Depot is providing a full refund (less my return shipping), so I'm only out $20 and a another week of downtime.

I found a place called Built Right Transmissions in Shreveport, LA that will remachine the pump faces and cavities for $55. They will also install a new stator and rotor group for a fair price. Total cost should be no more than the Dacco junk.

[Keckdl]

I am getting ready to do a full rebuild my transmission and was thinking about putting in a TCI constant pressure valvebody, what is your opinion on these? I cannot find any reliable info on using them or true benefit. Do you have any insight or experience with these?

Thanks,
Dan

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by Keckdl

I am getting ready to do a full rebuild my transmission and was thinking about putting in a TCI constant pressure valvebody, what is your opinion on these? I cannot find any reliable info on using them or true benefit. Do you have any insight or experience with these?

Thanks,
Dan

The Front Pump will wear out prematurely form operating at near 100% Duty Cycle all the time, 700R4/4L60E/2004R Variable Displacement Vane Style Pumps have several moving parts compared to a TH350/TH400/4L80E Fixed Displacement Gear Style Pump.

A Billet Pump Rotor is absolutely necessary with Constant Pressure, The stock cast pump rotor is not designed for a 100% Duty Cycle.
http://www.ckperformance.com/View/70...PUMP-ROTOR-KIT

The trans will shift hard under light throttle, This beats up the Splines & Hard Parts in general........It is really bad on Chain Style Transfer Cases!

The only good a Constant Pressure VB will do is allow you too adjust the TV Cable for Shift Timing.....Incorrect TV adjustment will not burn frictions with this VB.

Fine tuning a 700R4 to Upshift/Downshift exactly when you want makes Carb Tuning look easy.

[Keckdl]

Originally Posted by clinebarger

The Front Pump will wear out prematurely form operating at near 100% Duty Cycle all the time, 700R4/4L60E/2004R Variable Displacement Vane Style Pumps have several moving parts compared to a TH350/TH400/4L80E Fixed Displacement Gear Style Pump.

A Billet Pump Rotor is absolutely necessary with Constant Pressure, The stock cast pump rotor is not designed for a 100% Duty Cycle.
http://www.ckperformance.com/View/70...PUMP-ROTOR-KIT

The trans will shift hard under light throttle, This beats up the Splines & Hard Parts in general........It is really bad on Chain Style Transfer Cases!

The only good a Constant Pressure VB will do is allow you too adjust the TV Cable for Shift Timing.....Incorrect TV adjustment will not burn frictions with this VB.

Fine tuning a 700R4 to Upshift/Downshift exactly when you want makes Carb Tuning look easy.

Thank you for the quick reply and info. This thread is very informative and answered a lot of questions for me.

Thank you for writing it.

[HUSTLESTUFF]

Originally Posted by clinebarger

Lock-Up wiring.....WITHOUT CONVERTER SHIFT VALVE in the Valve Body!!

The easiest solution is to stack Lock-up on top of the 3-4 Shift with the 4th gear pressure. You will need a N.O. (Normally open) pressure switch installed in the 4th gear oil port in the Valve Body, The Switch you see in the above pictures is where the Switch goes.

Bowler has a "Time Delay" TCC module that works very well in Swaps. A Vendor here is selling them at a good price http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=611898
Comes with a New harness, 4th gear switch & Dual Pole brake switch, Keep that in mind when you perceive the price to be high.

Just for clarification as I'm hooking up my switch, the stock orange wire goes on same side as lock up wire and stock white wire goes opposite, correct? Also can I use the spade next to white wire to use for brake controller? Thanks, getting close to firing. Mike

edit: I was refering to pic in post 134 but pic didn't crossover. Mike

[ozzie drop beat]

Hi everyone, new member from Aus.... I hope I can pick your brains straight up, i am putting a transgo sk700 kit into my 700r4 and i have hit a snag..... the 2-3 shift valve and the 1-2 low range valve will not remove from the valve body.... i have removed the pins holding them in bit they still will not move, in or out or twist.... any ideas? and will it cause any issues if the rest of the kit is fitted and i leave those two valves as is?

Oh and i have read this thread and great info thank you

Regards

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by HUSTLESTUFF

Just for clarification as I'm hooking up my switch, the stock orange wire goes on same side as lock up wire and stock white wire goes opposite, correct? Also can I use the spade next to white wire to use for brake controller? Thanks, getting close to firing. Mike

edit: I was refering to pic in post 134 but pic didn't crossover. Mike

Do NOTHING with the Orange or White wire, Those are for your brake lights. Just plug the original brake switch connector onto the two pins closest to the Plunger.

The 2 pins furthest away from the Plunger are what you need too wire up......
Ignition Power too 1 pin, Lock-up solenoid power wire to the other.

The Lock-up Pole on the new brake switch works opposite of the Brake Light Pole.

Originally Posted by ozzie drop beat

Hi everyone, new member from Aus.... I hope I can pick your brains straight up, i am putting a transgo sk700 kit into my 700r4 and i have hit a snag..... the 2-3 shift valve and the 1-2 low range valve will not remove from the valve body.... i have removed the pins holding them in bit they still will not move, in or out or twist.... any ideas? and will it cause any issues if the rest of the kit is fitted and i leave those two valves as is?

Oh and i have read this thread and great info thank you

Regards

What year Valve Body are you working on?? If it has a 2nd design/Combined TV & Low bushing, Leave the shift springs alone.

The SK-700 (Green Box) is for Type 1 VB's, SK-700JR is for Type 2 VB's.

But, Too answer your question.....
Try pushing on the Bushing, The Spring pressure will generally push back on the Bushing, Do this back & forth til the bushing loosens up.

If it's really stuck, Take a Pocket Flat Blade screw Driver or an Awl & lightly pry on the Valve in the Bushing, Once the bushing starts too move out, Use your thumb to push the Bushing back in....Repeat til the Bushing frees up.

Welcome to the board!

[ozzie drop beat]

Originally Posted by clinebarger

Do NOTHING with the Orange or White wire, Those are for your brake lights. Just plug the original brake switch connector onto the two pins closest to the Plunger.

The 2 pins furthest away from the Plunger are what you need too wire up......
Ignition Power too 1 pin, Lock-up solenoid power wire to the other.

The Lock-up Pole on the new brake switch works opposite of the Brake Light Pole.



What year Valve Body are you working on?? If it has a 2nd design/Combined TV & Low bushing, Leave the shift springs alone.

The SK-700 (Green Box) is for Type 1 VB's, SK-700JR is for Type 2 VB's.

But, Too answer your question.....
Try pushing on the Bushing, The Spring pressure will generally push back on the Bushing, Do this back & forth til the bushing loosens up.

If it's really stuck, Take a Pocket Flat Blade screw Driver or an Awl & lightly pry on the Valve in the Bushing, Once the bushing starts too move out, Use your thumb to push the Bushing back in....Repeat til the Bushing frees up.

Welcome to the board!

Thanks for the reply. It is a late model trans, we never got the early version as our vehicles didn't get the t700 until 1989-90.. my understanding from transgo was the sk700 kit covered both versions and the jr kit only the late. The sk700 kit refers to both early and late models, correct me if i'm wrong but the sk700 kit comes with parts to update the early version? Where the jr does not.

I have tried prying it out but no luck, as you recommended leaving it if it is the late model i will do that. The trans is going into a 1976 corvette I built from the ground up

http://www.australiancorvettesassoci...e28f&start=300

[clinebarger]

Trans-Go needs to revise that because the SK-700 doesn't work very well on Type 2 VB's. There are several different size Shift Valve TV Bushings.....Their "One Size Fit All" Shift Valve Springs flat do not work well on Type 2 VB's,
The Line Bias Springs (Purple & Skinny White) are also wrong for the later style Line Bias Valve, The "Red" spring in the 700JR is perfect.

The Most Important part of either kit is the (Bootstrap) TV Valve Kit.

[HUSTLESTUFF]

I just want to thank clinebarger for this amazing thread and his help. I used it to rebuild the 700R4 I put in my girlfriends 72 c20 and I finally got the truck running after a frame off rebuild. Goes forward and reverse and shifts great. Many thanks!!!!!

[fisherman420]

Originally Posted by clinebarger

You will need a good air blower with a good rubber tip. Air pressure 40 to 60 psi.

Pressurize the Forward Clutch Feed. The Forwards will apply. The 3-4 Clutches SHOULD NOT move, Observe the Apply Cage & 3-4 pressure plate for movement though the holes in the Input Drum.
***'87-'93 4L60 Builders, Hold your finger over the hole directly under the Forward feed hole in the pic, On the side of the pump, This is the Forward Accumulator Feed***

Pressurize the 3-4 Clutch Feed, 3-4 Clutches will apply, The Overrun Clutches SHOULD NOT apply, Confirm this by Overrunning the Input Sun Gear counter clockwise by hand, Have another hold the drum stationary if needed.
(The Input Sun Gear is the gear in the middle of the Input drum in the previous pic)

Pressure the Reverse Feed, Listen for gross leakage.

All of my leak tests checked out except the reverse feed....there is a significant amount of leakage that seems to be coming from somewhere between the input drum shaft and reverse input drum from what I can tell. what could this mean? I'm hoping its just due to old, failed input shaft seals that were in my 89 700r4 core.....

[clinebarger]

Replace the 2 Stator Support Sealing Rings & retest.

[DieselSJ]

First, thanks clinebarger for responding to my PM's. I really appreciate the diagnosis help.

I'm posting this question here because it relates to the Transgo 700-LU that was discussed in this thread. I have been considering that as a way to control my lockup automatically. Currently I have 2 switches on my dash, one locks up the converter in 4th, and the other locks it in 2nd/3rd. I never lock it in 2nd, but I do lock it in 3rd when I'm towing. I can't find a lot of documentation on the 700-LU so I have some open questions. It does appear that it will allow lockup in 3rd - can you confirm?

Also, I'm confused on the instructions. From the Transgo website - FITS: THM 700 83-Up early or late design Valve body that is bored and contains either an OEM TCC valve train or Dummy plugs.

FEATURES: 700 Hydraulic Lock Up Kit No electrical needed. This kit REQUIRES your VB to be already bored for inner and outer valve train that currently contains two “dummy” plugs. NOTE: This kit can also be used to replace existing valve train for easier TCC shift timing calibration.

From post 126 in this thread -
**NOTE, Valve Bodies manufactured after '88 usually do not have the bore machined, And some are not machined for the Converter Shift Valve, But are Machined for the Converter TV Bushing.**

If your Valve Body Is not machined for BOTH valves Ignore this post!!!!!

So if I have a later VB that isn't bored, then I can't use the kit?

Thanks for helping clarify.

[clinebarger]

Yes, It will allow lock-up in 3rd gear, The 700-LU will not work on a Valve Body that's not drilled.

[DieselSJ]

OK thanks. If mine is not drilled, do you know of any other options for automatic lockup? Used one of the B&M kits on another vehicle and didn't like it being speed based with no reference to load.

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by DieselSJ

OK thanks. If mine is not drilled, do you know of any other options for automatic lockup? Used one of the B&M kits on another vehicle and didn't like it being speed based with no reference to load.

Don't know of any load based controls that aren't Vacuum based, Wouldn't help on a Diesel. And they suck on gas engines anyway.

I do have a couple Bowler "Timer Modules" that I can sell for under cost.....PM me.

[DieselSJ]

Originally Posted by clinebarger

Don't know of any load based controls that aren't Vacuum based, Wouldn't help on a Diesel. And they suck on gas engines anyway.

I do have a couple Bowler "Timer Modules" that I can sell for under cost.....PM me.

Thanks. Let me get mine apart and see what I have then go from there. I need to tear into it anyway to check that 2-3 TV bushing spring.

Thanks again for all the help!

[BHR]

hey guys great thread and alot of info on the 700r4 and what each part does thanks to clinebarger for his contributions

i do have some question i have a 700r4 with the transgo 2-3 kit and noticed after the install my downshift points have changed i used to be able to downshift for 3rd to 1st at under 30mph now its at under 20mph would anybody know what changes need to be made to get them back to what they were?

could possibly transgos new 3-2 shift valve (the new valve that also requires you to drill 3 holes in the VB one near the bathtub and two more as vent holes also near the bathtub and 2-3 valve) be the cause?

can i omit the spring from transgos new 2-3 shift valve for easier downshifts as you state in here but you state it for the original setup?


some more info about trans trans was from 91 fbody has original z28 skeleton governor and matching VB would be able to downshift to 1st below 30mph from what i could tell it had superior 2nd apply servo and the accumulator housing was double staked with 2 pistons

then had a rebuild with the trangso 2-3 kit tg separator plate installed the kit puts the vette servo back as well and a different accumulator spring setup with one piston along with the other changes described in here could the different servo and accumulator setup cause the downshift points to change?

[jamyers]

Using the TransGo Separator Plate, with a Corvette 2nd Servo Piston and a .500 Boost Valve..

Transgo says that with the bigger 2nd Piston, drill passages A and C to between .093" to .110".

I understand the Corvette servo can give rough 1-2 shifts, would drilling these to the smaller end of the scale keep the shifting from being too harsh?

Also, I think that passage A = 3rd gear Apply and C = 2nd gear apply, can anybody confirm that?

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by jamyers

Using the TransGo Separator Plate, with a Corvette 2nd Servo Piston and a .500 Boost Valve..

Transgo says that with the bigger 2nd Piston, drill passages A and C to between .093" to .110".

I understand the Corvette servo can give rough 1-2 shifts, would drilling these to the smaller end of the scale keep the shifting from being too harsh?

Also, I think that passage A = 3rd gear Apply and C = 2nd gear apply, can anybody confirm that?

Post a pic of your instruction sheet!

2nd apply with a 093 piston & stock converter......No bigger than .076".

3rd & 4th apply are good at .110"

A .500" TV Boost is dangerous territory for stock Cast Pump Rings!!

[jamyers]

Pic of the instructions is below, with my notes scribbled on it. Both holes measure as i wrote on the sheet, a numbered drill (mics at .082) fits a bit loose and the other (mics at .086) won't go in.

I've got a new 10-vane pump on the way, Wellington Parts number A74531AK. I believe it's got steel rings, but the description on Amazon doesn't say. Any way to confirm?

I'm also going with hole A = 3rd and C= 2nd?

Regarding the .500 boost valve, the trans came with a .420 in it. For a stock converter, stock 350 engine, 3.73 rear gear daily driver (that might see some performance add-ons in the distant future), would either boost valve be preferrable?

[jamyers]

The pump kit just arrived, hooray for Amazon Prime!

I'll upload pics of the rings, about all I can tell is that they're black...
The old rings that were in the pump are shiny all the way around...

How do you tell if they're cast or steel?

Sadly, the large metal sealing ring is broken, looks like the box got dropped and it cracked. Would it be ok to re-use the old sealing ring with a new o-ring?