700R4 build thread.

[BADAZ chevy guy]

I'm starting a new build thread for my 1993, 700R4. I've never built a transmission before, but Clinebarger has been gracious enough to offer his help and advice through this. I'll try to keep a photo record as I do this and post them here.
Wish me luck.

[BADAZ chevy guy]

So, this is the way the transmission looks now. Pulled it from the wrecking yard and haven't even washed it off yet.

[clinebarger]

Promising core, Notice the 3/8" cooler line fittings....Definitely late B-body TBI with tow package/police package.

need to build support fixture off your work bench, http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=490570

[BADAZ chevy guy]

Originally Posted by clinebarger

Promising core, Notice the 3/8" cooler line fittings....Definitely late B-body TBI with tow package/police package.

need to build support fixture off your work bench, http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=490570

YES on the support fixture. I have that whole thread saved in my bookmarks. I also want to make a pump puller, rear spring assy compressor and the wire & copper tube 'thingy' that you use to work the seals in.
Tow package/police package? Would that mean heaver clutches and/or other parts?
Also, I read someplace that there were a couple of changes in the 1993's (Not the 'E' versions) that were different from the 92's. Have you heard that?
Thank you in advance for all this. I'd be lost without someone knowledgeable to keep me out of trouble.

[79azc10]

Looking forward to seeing this thread

[Captainfab]

Subscribed

[YBNORML]

Same here

[Bigdav160]

Also, I read someplace that there were a couple of changes in the 1993's (Not the 'E' versions) that were different from the 92's. Have you heard that?

Easily identified by the round 5 pin TCC connector instead of the usual square four pin. All RWD cars got it in '93 while the trucks went to the electronic shifted version.

There is an extra switch on the valve body but other than that I don't think there's much difference from the earlier versions.

[clinebarger]

Bigdav160, IIRC the B-bodies retained the 4 pin TCC connector in '93 because it was still TBI? I know the F-body & Y-body got the 5-pin TCC plug. Maybe mistaken...Don't build '93 cores everyday.

Originally Posted by BADAZ chevy guy

YES on the support fixture. I have that whole thread saved in my bookmarks. I also want to make a pump puller, rear spring assy compressor and the wire & copper tube 'thingy' that you use to work the seals in.
Tow package/police package? Would that mean heaver clutches and/or other parts?
Also, I read someplace that there were a couple of changes in the 1993's (Not the 'E' versions) that were different from the 92's. Have you heard that?
Thank you in advance for all this. I'd be lost without someone knowledgeable to keep me out of trouble.

Tow package/police package means just better cooling, Bigger lines with auxiliary cooler. No internal upgrades over the '92.

Don't order ANY parts until the unit is torn down & inspected, Need to get the unit hung, CHECK endplay First! Endplay spec is .015" to .036". This is more of a Note to get a base reading for the final endplay & selective endplay washer selection during the build. Take this measurement with the input shaft pointed up, Set the dial indicator to zero, Pull up on the Input shaft to get the reading.

Next step is remove the Governor, You will forget later when the back half gets pulled & the Governor gear gets broke...Ask me how I know.

Next is the 2-4 band servo, Compress the piston into the case, Remove the Wire snap ring, With a pair of pliers work the cover out until it stops. This will expose the o-ring seal through the slots in the case. Using an awl, Pull on the O-ring though the opening (This will stretch the O-ring making it smaller) With the pliers, Work the cover out of it's bore.

The 4th apply piston will come out with the cover, Remove the 2nd apply piston & Pin & return spring from the case, Stack it in order on your bench out of the way. See diagram....I going to use drawings as much as I can.

[BADAZ chevy guy]

Okay. It'll be a few days to get a bench cleared off and a hanger built.

[BADAZ chevy guy]

A couple of quick questions:
1. When you have a transmission go out, it's a good idea to have the 'trans cooler' portion of the radiator flushed, or, get the radiator replaced?
2. Adding a friction modifier to transmissions that have a lockup torque convertor?
Any thoughts?
Neither of these are critical just now, I just want to get the questions out there for later.

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by BADAZ chevy guy

A couple of quick questions:
1. When you have a transmission go out, it's a good idea to have the 'trans cooler' portion of the radiator flushed, or, get the radiator replaced?
2. Adding a friction modifier to transmissions that have a lockup torque convertor?
Any thoughts?
Neither of these are critical just now, I just want to get the questions out there for later.

Usually a good flush is good enough, Get some brake clean or A/C flush & flush both ways, Flush until clean..Then flush again.

Dexron 3 ATF has all the friction modifiers needed.

[cableguy0]

Just to add.. Get some a/c flush. Its 10 times more potent than brake clean and will remove everything. We use it at work for cleaning all kinds of stuff. Our a/c part suppliers a can or two with every order.

[clinebarger]

Next step is to remove the pan, filter, Lock-up solenoid & harness, Control valve body, Auxiliary valve body, 2nd accumulator, Separator plate, 4th accumulator, & 2-4 band anchor.

The pan & filter are self explanatory,
Remove Forward clutch accumulator feed pipe...The only pipe in there.
Remove Lock-up solenoid (white arrow) & harness.
Remove the 13mm headed bolt that holds the manual detent lever spring (not shown, But the green arrow is where it will be.

Remove the Control valve body bolts (orange dots) 10mm heads.
Remove the TV valve actuator assembly.
Remove Control valve body.
There will be 2 check balls laying on the separator plate. Remove those.

Remove the Aux. valve body bolts (Yellow dots), 3 10mm headed & 1 8mm headed, The 8mm headed one is EASILY rounded off from jerks over tightening.
There will be 1 check ball under it.

Remove the 2nd Accumulator, (Blue dots) 10mm heads.

Remove Separator Plate & both gaskets, Keep the gaskets!

Remove 4th accumulator piston, Pull the center pin with pliers, Then the piston & spring.

There will be 4 check balls in the case, Remove them.

Remove the 2-4 Band anchor, Can't miss it, Metal plug looking thing under the separator plate. I use a magnet.

[clinebarger]

Accumulators & Separator Plate details, This is a 4L60E, But same concept.

[BADAZ chevy guy]

Originally Posted by clinebarger

Promising core, Notice the 3/8" cooler line fittings....Definitely late B-body TBI with tow package/police package.

need to build support fixture off your work bench, http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=490570

Another question. On the cooler line fittings you said 3/8" and my old TH350 had, I believe, 5/16" lines. So, do I replace the lines, get adapters for the fittings or replace the fittings with smaller ones?

I'm also putting together some of the tools I'll need and working on making a transmission hanger mount.
The local radiator shop will flush the trans cooler side for $25.00. It's a fairly new radiator so I don't think I'll need a complete flush. That would run $45.00

[clinebarger]

Just take the fittings out of the TH350 & install them in the 700R4.

Have them flush the cooler. Don't forget to flush the lines.

[BADAZ chevy guy]

BAD news guys. The building I'm living in was just recently sold. I got a chance to talk to the new owners yesterday. ABSOLUTELY NO working on any vehicles here. SO, now I have a truck I can't drive and no place to work on it. I'm not sure what to do at this point, but I'll keep you all posted if I figure out a solution.

[cableguy0]

Build the transmission inside. If they aren't there to watch constantly throw the trans back in in the evening or at night. It sounds like its time to find a new place to be. If this is your hobby your current situation isn't going to work. Do you have a garage or workshop?

[BADAZ chevy guy]

I don't have a garage or a workshop. Just a 4' x 9' storage space. And, the new owner has moved in to unit #4. Right next door. I've been looking for another place to move. $120.00 application fee (NON refundable) First and last months rent = $1900.00

[truckdude239]

Is it in the lease? If not they can't in force the no working on vehicles. I been though this at my old apartments. They tried this and all I was doing was installing a battery and then changing a flat tire they tried to evict me over and the courts said it wasn't in the lease they can enforce it.

[cableguy0]

Originally Posted by truckdude239

Is it in the lease? If not they can't in force the no working on vehicles. I been though this at my old apartments. They tried this and all I was doing was installing a battery and then changing a flat tire they tried to evict me over and the courts said it wasn't in the lease they can enforce it.

THIS x100. They cant just decide what they do and don't like. Aside from that sale of property DOES NOT void a previous lease. The new owners have to honor the old lease unless you signed a new lease with their stipulations.

[BADAZ chevy guy]

Actually, the NO working on cars IS in the old lease, (I just looked) but the old owner didn't enforce it. I talked to my buddy Chris. He said I could rebuild the transmission at his house. If I can figure out a way to get there. lol

[clinebarger]

I'm going to continue this thread to help others that may want to tackle a 700R4...

Next step is to pull the front pump, Remove the 13mm headed bolts, A pump puller is preferred, But a bearing splitter can be used as well, Both these methods require clamping onto the stator support tube (arrow in the pic).

The other method is to rock the pump out with a flat blade screwdriver & dead blow hammer, Get under the pump with the screwdriver, lightly pry up while tapping the input (turbine) shaft with the dead blow. Use patience!!!
The pump is tougher to remove with 1 piece Teflon seals, If the unit has Scarf Cut seal...It will be easier.

[clinebarger]

Once the pump is out, You will see the Reverse Input Drum, Most of the time the plastic Trust Washer will stay behind on top of the reverse input drum, Remove it & sit it with the pump.

Grab the Input shaft & pull up...Removing the Input drum & reverse input drum.

This will expose the 2/4 Band, Remove it.

1st pic....With the pump removed
2nd pic...The Reverse input & Input drum.