49 GMC Five Window

[youngrodder]

Good on you for doing your own alignment. I too am fighting a similar fight. I thought about doing what you did. I did end up buying some 18" Camaro rims to use for alignment. I smoked a $600 pair of tires due to my Suburban being out of alignment. I got it aligned originally but once I had some miles on it i decided to drop the ride height by an 1" or 2" (by running lower bag pressure). I was shocked how much this effected the alignment.

Marc

[57FleetsideC4]

Kudos for doing your own alignment. I am lucky as my neighbor has a shop and he will let me use his alignment rack. Keep up the good work and it is coming out great. Steve

[e015475]

Originally Posted by youngrodder

Good on you for doing your own alignment. I too am fighting a similar fight. I thought about doing what you did. I did end up buying some 18" Camaro rims to use for alignment. I smoked a $600 pair of tires due to my Suburban being out of alignment. I got it aligned originally but once I had some miles on it i decided to drop the ride height by an 1" or 2" (by running lower bag pressure). I was shocked how much this effected the alignment.

Marc

I have the same concern with ride height and airbags, so I went to HD and bought some 2x4s to put under the cross-member to keep the truck at the factory ride height while I aligned it.

Your comment has me curious so I think that before i breakdown my alignment setup I'll check it at the top and bottom of the bump stops to see what it does to camber and toe.

[youngrodder]

Originally Posted by e015475

I have the same concern with ride height and airbags, so I went to HD and bought some 2x4s to put under the cross-member to keep the truck at the factory ride height while I aligned it.

Your comment has me curious so I think that before i breakdown my alignment setup I'll check it at the top and bottom of the bump stops to see what it does to camber and toe.

Yeah like I said. I was shocked. I have 2,650 miles on my Suburban and the outside edges of the tires are almost bald. I didn't notice this until I got it back up on the stands after the driving season. Anther thought is I might even weld something to the face of the junk rims I bought so that my buddy has a place to attach the alignment mirrors to.

I will need to figure something out.

Marc

[e015475]

Well it was nice here for a couple days, but was snowing today, so I'm updating my build thread

It took me six months, but the alignment is finally done - a little less than an 1/8" toe front and rear.

Interior
I'm hoping this fall I'll be able to get my truck to the upholstery shop, so I've started to buy interior parts for when the weather gets decent.

I ended up buying my ABS headliner from Rod Doors - it's a one piece and preformed. Didn't want to do it myself from sheet stock and the elimination of the center trim is a nice bonus.

I'd made a steering column for my truck from one from a 59 Cadillac Biarritz and I'd done quite a bit of work filling all the cracks and getting it working, but I'd probably need to spend another week getting the wheel and the column painted, so I opted to buy a new wheel.

This is a 'butterfly' wheel for the 49-52 Chevy car that was a optional accessory back in the day. Unfortunately, I can find a steering column for it that's 2" tube with the 5/8"-36 spline, so I'm going to make one. I started with a steering shaft I found at the local junkyard from a mid 60s GMC

For the column tube, I'm going to buy some stainless tube, cut it to length and polish it. I have a top bearing with a slip-ring for the horn and will use a column saver for the bottom bearing, This new steering wheel setup will reduce the diameter to 17" too - I ain't getting any skinnier. The problem with the new column will be that I'll lose my built-in turn signals and have to go with a column mount signal. I like the 'retro' look of it so I'm resigned to it.

Here's the Cadillac setup I have now-


Bear Claws
I had these autoloc bear claws working pretty good, until I installed the door seals. The linkage from the outer door handle to the latch was through a bell crank and some rods, and it will just barely overcome the friction from the door seal and feels really mushy. Messed around with it for quite a while to try and make it work, got frustrated and bought a set of Altmans. Here's my current setup-

Here's the new Altmans. The latch mechanism itself appears to be identical to the Autoloc I used, but modified to to be actuated directly by the factory door handle. It'll be a miracle if I can get it to fit without using the Altman panel they want you to scab onto the door, but I'm going to give it a try


Airbags
I'm going to try one more thing before I give up on airbags and go back to springs. My airbags are controlled by a simple regulator to each corner, and trying to adjust them properly is a PITA, and I can hear airflow back through the regulators when I hit a big bump. I bought some manual valves to replace the regulators that'll allow me to change pressure/ride height on the fly


Hydro Boost and Power Steering
I put a new power steering pump on last summer, but it didn't cure my whining pump. After I installed it I'd driven around the block and heated the brakes up, and when I tried to move the truck back into the garage, the brakes were hanging up. At the time I'd dismissed this problem to calipers sticking because it hadn't been driven for a while, but the more I think about it, my problem might be that the output shaft of the Hydro Boost might be sticking out too far and depressing the master cylinder. I think I need to look at the input side too. I think the spool valve in the booster isn't centered when my foot is off the brake causing the system to build pressure. Going to adjust all the linkage and clearances and see if it doesn't get better. If there's any Hydro Boost or power steering experts out there - please jump in

[mongocanfly]

I like the new steering wheel

[8man]

I'm with Mongo on the steering wheel. Looks good.

[dsraven]

for the brakes you need to ensure the linkages are all free moving and have no areas where they may bind due to body flex etc and also ensure the pedal pushrod has free play. first ensure you have a pedal stop and return spring to bring the pedal back against the stop every time your foot is off the pedal. it needs to have a stopper so the pedal height is the same each time the pedal is released otherwise the pushrod freeplay changes. the pushrod from the booster to the master cylinder also needs to have some freeplay. depending on where your master cylinder is located there may also need to be some check valves in place and, depending on where your master cylinder was sourced, you may want to check it for a residual valve built into the outlets because some rebuilt ones were previously used for drum brakes and those valves may still be in there.

[e015475]

Originally Posted by dsraven

for the brakes you need to ensure the linkages are all free moving and have no areas where they may bind due to body flex etc and also ensure the pedal pushrod has free play. first ensure you have a pedal stop and return spring to bring the pedal back against the stop every time your foot is off the pedal. it needs to have a stopper so the pedal height is the same each time the pedal is released otherwise the pushrod freeplay changes. the pushrod from the booster to the master cylinder also needs to have some freeplay. depending on where your master cylinder is located there may also need to be some check valves in place and, depending on where your master cylinder was sourced, you may want to check it for a residual valve built into the outlets because some rebuilt ones were previously used for drum brakes and those valves may still be in there.

All good stuff - thanks dsraven.

My master is from a all-disc brake Corvette and mounted on the frame rail with the Hydro-boost, which is off an AstroVan. Pretty sure I don't have any residual valves, but will check as you suggest

I checked the free-play in the linkage going to the Hydro Boost and could get about 1/32" - too tight, I think. I'm going to put a positive stop on the pedal as you suggest and re-rig it for more clearance, making sure it is consistent with each application

I'm really concerned about the Corvette master and AstroVan push rod clearance. The interwebs say there's supposed to be .010-.030" clearance between the rod and the piston. There's zero chance that mixing dogs and cats like this would produce the right clearance, and I'm betting its negative and causing some of my problems.

Thanks for the tips

[dsraven]

if you don't have a positive pedal stopper in place i suggest to install one and I would also suggest one that has a small rubber or urethane bumper but not too much depth on the elastic part because that may wear in and cause the pedal height to change a little. a positive metal on metal stopeer could be used next to the elastic one I suppose. the elstic one would stop the "thump" and the metal one would stop the pedal at the same place every time. originally the pedal arm may have had a rubber block on the pedal arm which bottomed on the firewall.floor. I remember that noise when driving with my dad in his 59 apache, especially when starting on a hill.
for the booster to master pushrod clearance I would suggest to look at the astro van and see what the booster is supposed to have, same for the pedal to booster pushrod.
most frame mounted systems with disc brakes usually use a 2 lb residual valve in the systems so the brake fluid doesn't run back to the master cyl.
https://www.parrautomotive.com/index...at/cat1911.htm

[e015475]

More good tips - thanks.

I have a bunch of old urethane bushings from my off-road days - will repurpose one of those for a stop

My master reservoir lid is just below the floor in the cab under the seat, so my calipers are below the master about a foot, front and rear, so I shouldn't need a residual valve for that.

When the Hydro Boost was working the problem wasn't too long a pedal stroke - the brakes only required mild pressure/short stroke to actuate. I don't know how it'll be once I get the clearances correct, but I'll keep the residual valves in mind if it is excessive.

If I didn't throw it away, I have a master out of an AstroVan that I can measure clearance on - didn't think of doing that. Will try looking it up too.

[dsraven]

there is a nice little tool made for the purpose of master cyl push rod adjustment. you could easily make one I guess.
https://www.google.ca/search?q=maste..._rGtRcNmKF65zM

[e015475]

There's one of those tools on ebay that's 3D printed for $12, and a few Kent-Moore ones for a few bucks more.

Going to try my luck with the dial caliper first and see if I can keep my math straight-

Don't know why I'm hesitating - I usually don't need any excuse to buy a tool.

[dsraven]

you could build a quick H pattern out of scrap plywood or something and use a vernier caliper or even a screwdriver or some other rod as a depth finder. it wouldn't take much.
sometimes I get like that too, I have to tell myself to quit googling and just do the job, it would take less time, haha.
sometimes the fun is in making a new tool though.

[lower50's]

Ok sorry I just got caught up. For your air bag setup I would not be to concerned about what the pressure is. I have been running electric manual controlled valves for 6 years and 25,000mi, my front bags at ride height is aprox 120psi and my rear are 45psi. I hit my bottons for 2 quick seconds then go out the driveway and compare ride height by looking out the window at the running boards and the ground. Truck rides great, if your ride is to stiff try softer shocks. Take shocks right off and go for quick ride?
As for your alignment, spend time playing with the camber and toe within 2" of ride height up or down, find the best compromise. I have 15,000mi on the front tires and they look new so it can be done.
Hope some of this helps. Your truck is AMAZING.

[e015475]

Been working on the truck for the last few weeks and thought it might be time for an update.

Had a steering wheel and column from a late 50s Cadillac and decided it was too much trouble to refinish it, so I ordered some stainless tube from Summit and made my own. Slip ring for the horn is from a 50's Chevy passenger car and the steering shaft is from about a '66 Chevy truck in the local junkyard.


Found some rubber boots and trim rings to fit my pedals. Held with Velcro to the floor, but depending on what the upholsterer says, I might screw them down.


Installed some gas struts for the hood, but they cause the rear of the hood to lift up. I still have about a half inch gap in the back that I can't seem to adjust out so I might have to buy some new hinges.


I've been driving the truck more, but I'm fighting a squealing noise from the engine after it has warmed up. I've replaced all the accessories - water pump, PS pump, alternator and tensioner/idlers, but no change in the noise. Gettinq quite a collection of spare parts.


Watched a video from South Main Auto on youtube that had a belt that made the same noise as I'm experiencing, and he used one of these to align the power steering pulley


Here it is in action on my motor. The power steering pulley was off about half a groove on the serpentine - finger's crossed that this solves the issue with the noise.


I'm about at the end of my rope with this noise issue. If the alignment doesn't fix it I'm just going to get some earplugs and drive it till it fails

[e015475]

I cleaned up the wiring a little bit in anticipation of getting the truck to the upholsterer. I used a Rebel 9+3 because I already had a fuse block for the engine, but when it came time to find some real-estate on the firewall for the engine fuseblock, I was a little short. I fabed this bracket out of some scrape tube to mount it on the steering column (looks like I need to get the labels right side up - didn't even notice till I took the picture) Put connectors on the new column for easy in and out.

[jweb]

Not sure if it's the same noise but I had squealing too. Tried several things and finally went away when I switched to a Goodyear Gatorback serpentine belt.

[dsraven]

I've had that problem before over the years. No laser tool available but used a straight edge on the flat of a pulley and laid across the next pulley to eyeball it. They can be out quite a bit and you dont realise it. Also found older used pulleys can be worn and a new belt will swing a tune because it doesnt quite fit the grooves. Gatorback has usually worked well for me, they seem to have a little more meat in the grooves and tend to sit taller out of the pulley. I wonder if they were made with this in mind, and wear in a little to fit the system they get installed on?

[e015475]

I'd not run the truck since my attempt to align the serpentine grooves so I fired it up and let it come up to temperature last night. About ten minutes after it hit the thermostat and the electric fan came on, it started to squeal again. BTW all the pulleys are new except the damper.

I'm pretty frustrated, but it did seem like the noise reduced a little. I can feel a little lateral play in the PS pump and I makes me wonder where that pulley actually sits when it is running. I might put a dial indicator on the pump pulley and see how much it moves. As an experiment, I will try pushing the pulley on the shaft another .050" and see what happens.

I'd also read that the Goodyear Gatorback belt would solve squealing problems. I'd read that Continental bought the Gatorback product line back in 2015, so I bought a Continental belt thinking it was a Gatorback - it wasn't.

A little research indicated the Gatorback is now branded a "Continental Elite" but is still the same design and produced in the same facility.

I really appreciate all the suggestions from the board - thank you. I'm off to find a 'Continental Elite' belt

[dsraven]

If it makes noise right away look at the alternator. When it has sat a bit the battery may be a little low, especially after start up draw so the alt will be working harder to charge thus more strain on the belt. You can use a piece of hose to your ear to pinpoint a noise if you dont have a stethoscope. Maybe do a battery load test as well to see if it is taking a full charge and able to give what is required when called upon. Start it, load the system with a load tester if available, see if the noise gets worse. Also, check the belt tension, too much tension is as bad as not enough. Google for how to do that as deflection can depend on belt width and distance between pulleys. Maybe leave the ps pulley alone till you figure it out. Might make it worse.

[e015475]

Battery is a new Odyssey AGM battery and I keep it on a battery tender so it is fully charged all the time. Belt tensioner is new GM and sits right at the correct tension per the mark.

The charging system shows right at 14 VDC at idle. The alternator is new as is the pulley.

Found out Continental's version of the Gatorback was discontinued in 2020 and they now sell a belt called the "OE" to replace it. Need to start looking for a NOS Gatorback I think.

I like the hose idea - going to try that

My big amp draw is my SPAL cooling fan at about 20 amps

I turned it on and off and there was no change in the squeal.

The squeal is not there on startup - it takes about 20 minutes of run time before it starts.

[e015475]

Parked under the scrub oaks for a picture after a visit to the upholsterer for an estimate. It is a lot of fun to drive - until it starts squealing anyway.



Put the Rod Doors headliner in - not too bad. Their web site says it doesn't require trimming but it's going to require shaving here and there to fit perfect.

[joedoh]

beautiful picture!

i was in phx over the last week but too busy to do much. I thought about popping in on you and looking at your air ride though.

[oldman3]

Looking sweet...Jim