Bolt in steering rack

[broey]

hey man everything looks killer!!

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by tubbedII

I don't know how much has changed from this production version to the one in the old Joe, but will the production version still work with a pancaked crossmember?

The JT crossmember was raised 1 1/2". I suppose you could get away with 2" without needing to 'C' notch the rails. An install with a raised crossmember requires a different style support bearing, so please let us know what you are doing when you order, so we can get you thecorrect parts.

[dnd1978]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

The JT crossmember was raised 1 1/2". I suppose you could get away with 2" without needing to 'C' notch the rails. An install with a raised crossmember requires a different style support bearing, so please let us know what you are doing when you order, so we can get you thecorrect parts.

Rob,

I preordered a kit and I will need the part for a raised crossmember. I will send you PM

[robnolimit]

Not a problem, we got it taged for you.

[rob32472]

Rob, I am not a suspension expert but was wondering why a stock balljoint with a modified adjuster would not work here or why not move the heim to the top of the spindle? if a stock joint was used then spindles would be left stock...

[rob32472]

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Adjust...Heim,3333.html Could this be used instead of the bolt? it has correct taper for the oem tie rod end instead of drilling the spindles?

[robnolimit]

In a word, Geometry. To get the bumpsteer down to a minimun, and have the rack in a reasonable position, the TRE needs to be on the bottom. The Speedway stud also would put the tRE on top. Yes we looked at the taper adapters that the off-road guys use, in which you would drill a 3/4" hole, press in a new sleave with a taper, TIG weld the sleave to the spndle, (a good trick in it's self), and then machine the steering arm flat for the castle nut. Did'nt look like something most home builders could do - in reason. This type of steering joint is stronger than the stock style TRE. They are used at Bonniville at 400+ mph, at the 24hr Le-Mans, in Mexico at the Baja 1000, and many more torture tests. Just remember, 'good for NASCAR, good for YOUR CAR'

[76stepside]

Ordered mine this morning... cant wait to get it!!!

[robnolimit]

Thanks for the order, we're working hard to get them out early in july.

[Scot_Douglas]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

Yes we looked at the taper adapters that the off-road guys use, in which you would drill a 3/4" hole, press in a new sleave with a taper, TIG weld the sleave to the spndle, (a good trick in it's self), and then machine the steering arm flat for the castle nut. Did'nt look like something most home builders could do - in reason.

This is what I did, along with a tapered bolt similar to the speedway one.

To get the 3/4" hole in your spindle takes a $50 drill bit, a drill press and a lot of patience. I was nervous as all get out when I opened my steering arms out to 3/4".

Again, Rob gives us a bit of insight to how much he researched this and thought about the customer before making it available.

[Custom 68]

We would like to hear from the customer on his initial impressions. I'm sure it is good but wanted to know how happy he is.

[Tmend]

Rob on post #230 the part in red. At full lift and turning will the spindle hit or touch the jam nut looks close . In the pic it would be turning the wheel to the left?
Posted via Mobile Device

[robnolimit]

Tmend, i think its the angle of the pict. There is plenty of clearance at full lift, and full droop, both full left & full right turns.
Custom68 I saw Jake yestarday, he said he will be posting up his driving impressions, and answer questions about the feel, asap, probably this weekend.

[POPO1984]

Maybe I over looked it but has a price been listed for the kit yet

[Custom 68]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

Tmend, i think its the angle of the pict. There is plenty of clearance at full lift, and full droop, both full left & full right turns.
Custom68 I saw Jake yestarday, he said he will be posting up his driving impressions, and answer questions about the feel, asap, probably this weekend.

Great, just wanted to hear first hand as it looks like a great kit. I looked last night and even tho mine is an ls motor I built the motor mounts and slid it back a couple inches I think I have lots of room. It is a lot of money so I just want to hear as much about it as I can. With all the parts you are including it looks like it is well worth the expense tho I am not saying it is not. I have done so much on my truck myself but there are some things best left to the pros. Thanks for what you have done on this. I will count my pennies this weekend and see if I can swing it.
Dave

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by POPO1984

Maybe I over looked it but has a price been listed for the kit yet

Yes, these kits will list in the $850 - $890 range, that may sound a bit pricey, but there is over $200 in two steering U-Joint6s, support bearing and shaft. WE're using the quality parts for safety, and they cost a bit more. We are pre-selling some kits for $750 to get the ball rolling. Thanks for the interest.

[68GMCCustom]

still trying to be one of those 1st 10 Rob, not sure I'll make it tho as I may have to spend some coin on my trans.

[jake696]

I have had the new rack on my 1965 chevy for about a weeks now . This is one of the best
things I have done to this truck. I drive this truck everyday and it handles like
a Porsche. The install is clean and looks high dollar. Conconsidering what a new
gear box and all new front in parts cost this is a great deal. My son will be driving
this truck soon and I feel better knowing that if he gets in a tight situation
the truck will respond like a new car. Rob must stay up all night thinking of this
stuff because it looks and handles great. Now Rob stay up an think of one for
my 1955 chevy 210 wagan. Thanks again, JAKE696

[Custom 68]

Great to here your thoughts. I guess you are the one in this post. I assume if you had any noticable bump steer before that has been aleviated? No "wondering" on the road or other issues? Looks like a winner.
This may have been answered but what is the turns lock to lock? I had replaced my gear box and it is "faster" than stock but dont remember what it is.
Thanks
David

[robnolimit]

I checked one out today, and it's 3 1/4 turns lock to lock. The racks will go 3 1/2 turns, it's the steering stops that limit the turning, as they should.

[chapster]

Rob,

Can we get a pic with weight on the tires to see where the tie rod ends are in relation to bottom of the frame and lower control arm.
I was installing my Porterbuilt front sway bar today and was curious if the R & P outer tie rod link will contact the sway bar where it mounts to Porterbuilt lower control arm?

[rob32472]

Any updates on shipping?

[76stepside]

Hey Rob.... any updates as to when you guys might be shipping these out?

[baggedbigblock]

Can we get these in manual rack and pinion. I dont want the mess of running a pump and lines. OR will you sell it w/o the pump and I can loop the system? Please PM me with a manual rack and pinion cost.

[robnolimit]

Sorry for the delay in answering. We've been on a 3 week, 5000 mile "Shop Hop" and show tour. Had a great time, but glad to be home. Kits should start shipping in 10 to 12 days. Sorry no manual racks, you can loop the feeds, but with any serious tire, parking lots will be a chore.