1964 C10 fleet side swb

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Justin71105

I've been having that front end pop for a few months now and today I finally found out what it was and fixed it.

When installing the coils springs I was placing the springs in the lower control arm and using that groove in the lower to align them. Problem is the top does not fit in the D shape properly when this is done, found online that someone recommended starting on the upper since it is a fixed position as well and it doesn't move like the lower control arm when you are installing.

I found the third ring down on the coil spring was rubbing the engine cross member where it goes up in there. The spring would also rotate slightly from the upper portion not being locked into the D shape. I think it would rotate and give a slight gap and I wouldn't hear the popping for a little while and then spin back and start it up again.

Simply dropped lower control arm and aligned the upper first then brought the control arm up to the lower side of spring.

Did this to both sides and now have a 1" gap or more all the way around the engine member.

Took it down the road and no more popping, the spring had been rubbed pretty good on the drivers side and that's were I was hearing the noise most consistently.

Also figured out the belt needed for the Holley kit with a little work around. I dropped my idler pulley size under the alternator from a 90mm to a 76mm and the 113" belt fit. Seemed pretty tight to me but the tensioner now lines up with the marks it needs to almost perfectly.

True... But I rarely have that issue because that top coil is usually trimmed off. I use the lower a-arm divot as my guide.

[Justin71105]

Yeah thats how I am used to installing them as well.

I just think these are too much of a drop, they are still moving in the pockets even clocked correctly on bottom or top.

I believe when I hit some pot holes or bunps and the suspension raises the springs are just moving around in there loose.

Either going to get some 2" drop coils or find an isolator that fits. Pretty sure these are 3" coils, with the frame jacled up I can spin them slightly before they catch.

When they uncompress on a bump they could be moving all around.

Also thought about using a j bolt to cinch them down. There is a hole right inside the lower pocket to put it in.

-- Picked up some J hooks and habe both coils locked down, will mark the coils and see tomorrow if they are still able to rotate.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Justin71105

Yeah thats how I am used to installing them as well.

I just think these are too much of a drop, they are still moving in the pockets even clocked correctly on bottom or top.

I believe when I hit some pot holes or bunps and the suspension raises the springs are just moving around in there loose.

Either going to get some 2" drop coils or find an isolator that fits. Pretty sure these are 3" coils, with the frame jacled up I can spin them slightly before they catch.

When they uncompress on a bump they could be moving all around.

Also thought about using a j bolt to cinch them down. There is a hole right inside the lower pocket to put it in.

-- Picked up some J hooks and habe both coils locked down, will mark the coils and see tomorrow if they are still able to rotate.

Not a bad idea. Could shed some light on what's going on.

[Justin71105]

So the springs are rotating causing the issues with the bolts they did good for quite awhile, but over time the j hook loosened and the spun again and are rubbing.

Will likely go to a 2" spring sometime or another in the future.

Laced the roof a few weeks ago, it came out pretty cool, did not lay a base coat so the factory primer would come through.

Ordered the rear disc setup with E-brake from Speedway and will be converting the rear to disc like the front in the next few weeks.

Looks pretty simple, got a disc to disc prop valve that will need to be put on as well.

[Justin71105]

Disc brakes mostly on, speedway kit went on pretty well.

Took awhile b/c the instructions are trash.

Had to use the included spacers since I am running the 67' axles and carrier, they are 1/2 wider than the stock 64 per side.

Fit well, instructions say to weld on the included hose bracket...kit does not come with this.

So ordered those and will finish it all up next week im off.

Need to weld on brackets to axle tube, then cut down hard lines and tie it togethor and bleed brakes.

Got E-brake adjusted and it works well, can't spin tire by hand at all. Release ebrake and it spins with a tiny drag. Will see how well they work after kts finished next week.

[Justin71105]

Stopped by one of the local shops that does ls engine builds today. Decided to finally get the motor work done this year. I was going to do it myself to save on labor, but I decided against it this time.

He recommended a Thunder Racing 220 cam with either 112 or 113 lsa +4 can't remember which lsa but one of those 2. I was looking at the btr stage 2 truck cam, but he recommended this one thats a little more aggressive.

Would be doing new dual springs, hd push rods, lifter upgrade /trays, trunion upgrade, new timing set, oil pump, 2800 stall torque convertor and all new hardware/gaskets of course. Might have missed some things but I think thats about it.

He recommended installing the flex fuel sensor, so I ordered that today and will install and wire myself.

Hoping for a litte more lopey idle and some good hp/tq gains.


Going to go by a few more shops and see what they recommemd and get pricing. He was in line with what I was expecting to pay.

Want to get some more opinions on cam choice and stall convertor. I know the next shop does a ton of c10's and I can see what cam and convertor combos they get rave feedback on. I like the btr cam because it has really good power down low through 6000, rarely ever get in the higher rpms.

The tr220 looks to jump up in hp/tq around 3500rpm from what little I can find on it.

Everything I have read says a 212/218 and 111/112 lsa gets power down low and idles a little more aggressive. So I am ready to get some more feedback.

[SCOTI]

I like the numbers for the BTR Truck Norris spec cam. Doesn't lose anything @ lower rpm compared to the stock cam but picks up tq/hp well for the mid range vs the other 'stage-x' cams & has an idle in a 5.3l.

[Justin71105]

Read up a good bit on the Truck Norris and have it saved in my cart. I like the more aggressive idle in the sound clips and some of that can be tuned down if I wanted for a smoother idle. It does make more power everywhere vs the 212/218 one.

Looks like I can keep my stall convertor if I really want, this trailblazer one brake stalls around 2200. Says you can use factory stall and normally trucks only have a 1600-1800.

I did change my mind on doing the work myself after getting an itemized quote. Verbal was 5k on high end and itemized was 6900 without tax added.

Can do it myself for roughly $2,400 in parts and tune without buying a new stall.

And thats doing everything: cam, 0.625 bee hive springs, 0.080 push rods, Ls7 lifters/trays, Oil pump, timing set, BTR V2 trunion upgrade, spark plugs, cam retainer, gaskets and fluids. Will also move my ecm to passenger side and body fuse box to stock location during all that work.

More than likely I will hold off on the converter and see how it drives, replace later is necessary.

Have talked to a few guys online who say with the 2200 stall already in, it would drive very well, they kept the lower Silverado stalls with this cam and it drives fine for them. Btr sys it will work but a 2600-2800 would just make it more fun to drive. Maybe after a year or two of having the cam and tune I will go back in with one.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Justin71105

Read up a good bit on the Truck Norris and have it saved in my cart. I like the more aggressive idle in the sound clips and some of that can be tuned down if I wanted for a smoother idle. It does make more power everywhere vs the 212/218 one.

Looks like I can keep my stall convertor if I really want, this trailblazer one brake stalls around 2200. Says you can use factory stall and normally trucks only have a 1600-1800.

I did change my mind on doing the work myself after getting an itemized quote. Verbal was 5k on high end and itemized was 6900 without tax added.

Can do it myself for roughly $2,400 in parts and tune without buying a new stall.

And thats doing everything: cam, 0.625 bee hive springs, 0.080 push rods, Ls7 lifters/trays, Oil pump, timing set, BTR V2 trunion upgrade, spark plugs, cam retainer, gaskets and fluids. Will also move my ecm to passenger side and body fuse box to stock location during all that work.

More than likely I will hold off on the converter and see how it drives, replace later is necessary.

Have talked to a few guys online who say with the 2200 stall already in, it would drive very well, they kept the lower Silverado stalls with this cam and it drives fine for them. Btr sys it will work but a 2600-2800 would just make it more fun to drive. Maybe after a year or two of having the cam and tune I will go back in with one.

A bone stock LS1/4l60e w/an upgraded/higher stall converter def make things 'funner'. I had a '02 Collectors Edition TransAm & was amazed with how much a shift kit, Vette servo & 26-2800 stall changed the driving experience. Fun is the correct descriptive.

[Justin71105]

Decided to also swap to a low mount AC compressor setup, to hide it and make space for a turbo should I ever want one. Figured with the engine out would be the best time to get it in and its only $200 for the entire kit.

Ordered the Alan Grant 142R AC kit. Very nice setup, wish I had just done this instead of ordering the Holley High mount. Placed brackets and took some moeasurement and I have 1-2" space between back of compressor and motor mpunts it looks like.

I will know for sure when I get the kptor out and mount the co pressor on stand. Going to trim top of ftame rail and box in for better clearance for hoses. Even if it doesnt need it, I dont want to put motor back in and have any clearance issues.

I have everything ordered and most of it sitting in the kitchen, waiting to get my engine hoist and stand back from a freind I loaned it to.

[SCOTI]

Alan Grove bracket kit?

Should be an easy flip for the Holley brackets.

[Justin71105]

Yeah Alan Grove, watching too much Jurrasic Park I guess.

I got some more parts in today, they are beginning to stack up in my dining room. I will be needing my engine lift and stand back soon from the buddy I loaned it too.

Would like to pull my motor the first weekend of March and get this work started. Moving the ecm to passenger side firewall from drivers side will be the most time consuming I think.

[Justin71105]

Tore it down at the right time, two of the drivers side lifters were probably about to fail very soon.

Spring clip on one fell out when I lifted it out. Second one was not very far behind it.

Cylinder walls still have really good cross hatching, I think it will all clean up good.

I got new springs/seals installed and rocker trunions upgraded on driver side head. This weekend will be wiring, moving the ecm to passenger side. Once thats done I can do passenger head and start installing everything in motor..

[Justin71105]

Just about got the engine done, only items left to go on are intake, valve covers and water pump. I am going to notch frame where ac fittings go about 1" for some extra space as well.

I cleaned heads out pretty well and lapped the valves.

New knock sensors, harmonic balancer, front cover put on today along with heads, rockers, pushrods. New belt drive going on before it goes in the truck, no idea where my old stuff is.

Hoping to have the motor back in late next week. Then I will just need to schedule my street tune and dyno tune.

Ready to see what activating e85 in ecm with the new cam will do. Likely aill hve to do street tune on 93 which its full of now and dyno it on e85 or whatever the tuner recommends.

[Justin71105]

Thought it was going to take another 2 weeks to have it to this point. Have everything done except for making ac hoses and vacuum/charging it.

Then I will schedule the street and dyno tunes hooefully by the end of the month.


https://youtu.be/ciaTZY51uzM?si=Gk9OsN4Mz7AKH-4F

[bigmoe]

Awesome. Lookin great!

[Justin71105]

Big relief when I heard it run, first time ever going that far on an engine.

Now I just got to get the ac all back togethor. Will be itching to get my tune done after this weekend and the ac is back going.

Luckily my base tune from a few years ago has the idle at 650. No stalling unless I give it throttle and then let off.

[Justin71105]

When it got up tontemp it would stumble when come to a stop and die.

My tuner msgd me today and had an opening. Drove 45 miles their and within an hour he was done with street tune and it runs great now.

Will be scheduling the dynontune for sometime next month to dial it in further.

Feel a major difference over 2500rpm and the idle sounds really good.

[SCOTI]

Excellent!

[Justin71105]

1800 miles on cam swap and still running beautifully.

Will be doing the pcm wiring so when my AC comp kicks on it will bump up idle rpm soon and will be swapping out the 3" front drop coils for some 1 or 2" as well.

Bought a new motorcycle and have been enjoying it instead of working on the truck. Really doesn't even need the above work done, drives just fine without but idles down too low with ac.

Then I come to a stop and the springs have stretched the hold downs I installed so the spring is rubbing the edge of the cross member pocket every once in a blue moon.

[GSP7]

Chuck Norris Camshaft ?

say what?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by GSP7

Chuck Norris Camshaft ?

say what?

'Truck Norris' camshaft. Google it.....

[Justin71105]

I got the idle fixed for A/C idle finally, will still need to adjust some air settings for Reverse but in fwd gears and park it idles fine with AC on max.

Also have the rear end gear set correctly in th eecm now, it lowered the shift pressures for 1-2 around 5% at lower rpm and 10% at higher rpms. Really toned down that harsh 1-2 shift, still shifts firm but without chirping the wheels at 1500 rpm leaving a stop sign.

Next wiring item is to get the cruise wired up and working, front springs changed over to some 2" probably and eventually want to swap Vintage Air vents to the C10 cool stock style vents.

[Justin71105]

Was able to use the hitch I installed last year. Road my motorcycle up north for a 5 day group ride this past week. It was raining on us yesterday and hit a pothole I didnt see, bent the wheel pretty good.

Limped the bike home this morning having to pull over and fill tire every few miles to keep it above 30psi. Was having to stop every 5 miles as soon as it went from 38 to 30 psi.

Rented a Uhaul MC trailer and got it to the dealer. The hitch came in very handy to keep from having to get it towed to the dealer. Trailer only cost $25 for the day and really only needed it for about 3 hrs. Not a lot of weight but it handled the roughly 1000 lbs easily.

Glad I bought the warranty with wheel/tire coverage. Should be getting a new wheel and possibly tire. Almost paid for the whole warranty in this one road hazard claim. New front wheel is around $1k then if a tire is needed another 300 on top.

[Justin71105]

Cut out the Tanks inc fuel box and welded in a 99-06 Silverado fuel patch panel.

Got the filler neck and door from the junk yard for it. Used a 2003 Suburban filler neck that is 2" to match the fuel hose I was already using and a 5/8 vent.

Cut out the old one, welded in the new one and now just need to slap some bondo on it to make it look better.

Filled it up the day I installed minus the vent hose, was still using the 1/4" one. I installed the 5/8" fitting and hose to the vent on filler neck today.

Filled up again and no issues, can lock the nozzle on full blast and not have the any fuel spill back and cut off the nozzle or spill.

Needed half a tank and it filled completely before tripping nozzle off and it was actually full.

The Tanks Inc setup was OK, but the magnet was not strong enough to hold the door closed when I hit some bumps and the door hinge is very thin and the opening too small. When I would put nozzle in if it moved (rotated) and hit the door it would bend the hinge and not sit flush with bedside. I would then have to bend it back flush, didn't happen at every fill up but enough to make my mind up to cut the bedside open again.

Now I have a functional 99-06 Silverado door that is much more durable it feels like.

Last picture is the tanks inc setup, had already sanded down to see where I welded it in. I still need to do some bondo/sanding but I think I can get it looking atleast as good as the Tanks Inc did and its more functional which is what I was hoping for.