47-55.1 '50 3600 re-do. Shortening things up!

[mobileortho]

I was off all week and had plans to spend as much time as I could working on the truck. In the end, I was only able to hook up the fuel filler and mount the tail lights. I changed course on lights in the roll pan and installed stock styled LED’s.

[mobileortho]

I've been scratching my head trying to figure out where the puddle of brake fluid was coming from on the drivers side around the front wheel. All the lines were checked & double checked & after closer inspection it appeared that it was coming from somewhere around the master cylinder so I set up me camera to see what happened when I applied the brakes and was shocked to see that the pressure switch on the proportioning valve was gushing fluid, not from the threaded connection but from around the front section by the plug. Somewhat surprised that this would fail especially since it's new.

[vintovka]

Originally Posted by mobileortho

I've been scratching my head trying to figure out where the puddle of brake fluid was coming from on the drivers side around the front wheel. All the lines were checked & double checked & after closer inspection it appeared that it was coming from somewhere around the master cylinder so I set up me camera to see what happened when I applied the brakes and was shocked to see that the pressure switch on the proportioning valve was gushing fluid, not from the threaded connection but from around the front section by the plug. Somewhat surprised that this would fail especially since it's new.

This is like the third time i have heard about proportioning valve leaks and some failures. All were aftermarket Asian made. Glad you found it. Curious as to how you just capped it off.

[mobileortho]

Originally Posted by vintovka

This is like the third time i have heard about proportioning valve leaks and some failures. All were aftermarket Asian made. Glad you found it. Curious as to how you just capped it off.

It was the crappy brake switch more so than the valve itself. Just a brass fitting to cap it off.

[dsraven]

sometimes being new can be worse than using the old part, lol.

[mobileortho]

Originally Posted by dsraven

sometimes being new can be worse than using the old part, lol.

True! I wasn't using it anyway, so I just capped it off.

[mobileortho]

Added a set of LED headlights. These have built in DRLs & turn signals. Can't figure out what the emergency flashers don't work though. I Hope to be able to test drive this thing soon!

[mobileortho]

Tucked the bumper in a bit & extended the splash apron.

[mobileortho]

Going to have to upgrade the cooling system, it got pretty hot running in the garage. I can’t recall how much cfms the current fan has but it’s not up to the task. Any suggestions?

[8man]

I pulled the single electric fan when mine did that and went with a dual fan. It increased the CFM's some and it now runs about 180 degrees.

[mobileortho]

Originally Posted by 8man

I pulled the single electric fan when mine did that and went with a dual fan. It increased the CFM's some and it now runs about 180 degrees.

You found a dual setup for an AD? What did you use?

[dsraven]

a dual fan set up can be wired to start off with only a single fan running and then boost to the second fan if things continue to heat up. a manual switch is always a good thing too, for heavy stop and go traffic on hot days.

[mobileortho]

And just like that, $$$$ down the drain! Ive been in denial for the last month. I started it up as I usually do on weekends, but a few weeks ago I started it it it made an horrendous clattering noise and it went dead. In disbelief, I sat there for several minutes sick to my stomach. I put a breaker bar on the crank pulley and it would only turn about half a revolution then stop. I walked out of the ggarage and left it alone for weeks while I pondered my life’s choices.

Today, I mustered up enough courage to try to diagnose the problem. I lowered the oil pan as much as I could and fished these chunks out. Not sure where they’re from but it appears to be catastrophic.

[dsraven]

are you running floating piston pins? possibly a clip from the pin retainer is what we see there? that would mean the other chunks are piston parts?
what size of hole would that clip be from? piston pins are likely .945 or .927 diameter.
if you can get the pan out from under you could get a light and check it out from the underside. if thats the case, pray ther cylinder walls are ok cuz usually the pin eats a groove into the cylinder. either way it looks like you will have some engine work in your future.
that sucks, sorry to hear it went sideways.
post up pics when you get back on it.

[8man]

That sucks!

[mobileortho]

Originally Posted by dsraven

are you running floating piston pins? possibly a clip from the pin retainer is what we see there? that would mean the other chunks are piston parts?
what size of hole would that clip be from? piston pins are likely .945 or .927 diameter.
if you can get the pan out from under you could get a light and check it out from the underside. if thats the case, pray ther cylinder walls are ok cuz usually the pin eats a groove into the cylinder. either way it looks like you will have some engine work in your future.
that sucks, sorry to hear it went sideways.
post up pics when you get back on it.

Not sure of the internals, the engine was built by the Hot Rod Company out of Green Acres Washington. I bought it from someone that purchased it new, never installed, then decided he wanted a stroker. It was still wrapped on the pallet when I got it from him.

I'll get around to pulling it out eventually to access the damage but I'm not optimistic. I called a reputable machine shop in the area to try to get a ball park figure on a possible repair & he said he wouldn't touch it because with that much broken metal floating around it's likely loss. He did tell me to bring it in when I pull it & he would tear it down & inspect it for $75. Looks like there's a good chance that there's at a minimum a new short block in my future, that is if the heads are ok.

[dsraven]

it doesn't cost you anything but time to take the engine out and take it apart yourself. any good engine builder would be able to assemble an LS engine from a box or 2 of parts if it turns out the block is good. start by taking the oil pan off and look inside to see what is left. if the block casting has been broken then you can stop there, flip it over and take the intake and heads off to check for damage and if they are re-useable. if pulling the lifters use a block of wood with some holes drilled to accept the lifters in oreder of where they sit in the block. this way, if the cam is still good, the lifters can be placed in order so they run on the same cam lobes that they are used to running on.
and, of course, post up pics.
there is also the option of buying a good used engine from a wrecker who will give a warranty.

[mobileortho]

Yeah, I know. This setback has taken some the wind from my sail & l’ve lost some motivation. I’ll get to it eventually. But I have been looking at a few junkyard motors just in case. I don’t plan on dropping that kind of money into a new crate engine.

[Rickysnickers]

Oh man, sorry to hear this happened. I hope you can get it fixed up and running again.

[6DoF]

dang, yeah ... that's not where those go

[dsraven]

sometimes it helps to walk away from it for a little bit, or pick a new project on it that you can finish with a good success rate. then come back to the engine.
if it were me I would yank the engine out, see to what extent the damages are, then I would know what I need to look for. sometimes buying an insurance wreck can get you a good engine with low miles but then you have th rest of the hulk to get rid of. depending on what that is, you can make a few bucks off the wreck quickly.

[dsraven]

if you can find an economically priced engine, complete, with a warranty, that would get you back on the road easily. you may even find it does the job so well you don't need to do anything after that, engine wise. it's a small truck, really, so a stock 5.3 is still gonna burn rubber if you want.

[vintovka]

Thanks. Forgot about those with brake switches. Recently saw some whose distribution ports were mis machined and spraying over new paint!!

[mobileortho]

Back at it again. Not optimistic about the condition of the 6.0 with the piston grenading so as a back up I bought a complete running 5.3 for $400 bones. I can sell the accessories and make that back. Not planning anything crazy, maybe. mild cam. Also thinking about sealing the Fitech and either using the stock intake or switching to a Holley Sniper carb for the old school look.

[mobileortho]

Started tearing it down & it looks pretty decent, cleaned up the carbon build up from the pistons but the cylinders look good. I’ll scavenge the cam from the 6.0.