Project 69SWB

[Low Elco]

Wow, that takes guts! Looks great in the end. Excellent work!

[STOCKISH]

Nice work on fixing that door gap. I would have been scared to death to cut my cab like that!

[~Whitey~]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Very nice work on the cab and fender Jimmy. I bet that took some serious time to stitch that weld in. I can appreciate all your hard work on the doors too. I have just spent months on my doors, fenders and bed sides. It's slow going for sure even you aren't distracted by bikes keep up the hard work.

Nice work on the paint inside too!

Thanks a bunch Mike.. I'm saving the bed for last, plus I'm trying to save up money for it so I can put wood back in it. YES, it took forever for that big stitch.

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Wow, that takes guts! Looks great in the end. Excellent work!

Thanks Low Elco! I gotta get over to all you guys threads and see where you're at... Haven't parused the site for a month-ish

Originally Posted by 1972SuperCheyenne

Nice work on fixing that door gap. I would have been scared to death to cut my cab like that!

I was hesistant, but didn't see any other choice that would be right (in my mind). :-/

[Xeen]

That was definately an extreme way to fix a door gap issue hehe.
That took some guts and I don't doubt you were nervous anyone would have been.
I'm just wondering if removing the outter rocker, pie slicing the floor and shortening the inner rocker then pulling the B-Pillar forward would have accomplished the same thing.

[vegadesign]

very cool build, good work!
loving the green too !!

[Bennett68C10]

Great job Jimmy, truck looks great. Nice job on the metal work.

[~Whitey~]

Originally Posted by Xeen

That was definately an extreme way to fix a door gap issue hehe.
That took some guts and I don't doubt you were nervous anyone would have been.
I'm just wondering if removing the outter rocker, pie slicing the floor and shortening the inner rocker then pulling the B-Pillar forward would have accomplished the same thing.

Thanks Brian. It may have fixed it towards the bottom, but I doubt I would have fixed the gap at the top of the door on the inside. Would have had to pie slice the roof too I think... And actually im not sure it woukd even pull together due to the cab mounts. That's why I sliced up a high as I did. The gap problem was on the inside above the door handle as well... About half way up to roof. Plus, completely removing the rocker was not an option as it is welded in pretty solid. I actually took a 1/4 in out of the back where I sliced the rocker itself and added a quarter to the front. Essentially the same as moving it forward without removing it and throwing off the how the door closes into it at the front by the fender. It's confusing I know but it fits great now. Also cutting into the floor and welding it all back up wasn't an option either since I've already done the underneath of the cab an Herculined it and after typing this all out and thinking about it, think the cab mounts would prevent it from closing the gap.

Originally Posted by vegadesign

very cool build, good work!
loving the green too !!

Thanks Vegadesign! I love green against black.

Originally Posted by Bennett--G4L

Great job Jimmy, truck looks great. Nice job on the metal work.

Thanks Keith, appreciate it!
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[Bomp]

Nice work on the door/cab/filler hole/fender marker light/ you've got some serious metal working skillz.

[67c10rustbuket]

Great job pulling the gaps in. That was an extreme gap Adjustment!
Where did you get your disk brake backing plates? All I have found new are chrome
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[~Whitey~]

Originally Posted by Bomp

Nice work on the door/cab/filler hole/fender marker light/ you've got some serious metal working skillz.

Hey now what about my lowering kit installing skills? :-)
Thanks Bomp, as always coming from a pro, I appreciate it!

Originally Posted by 67c10rustbuket

Great job pulling the gaps in. That was an extreme gap Adjustment!
Where did you get your disk brake backing plates? All I have found new are chrome
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Thanks! the dust shields... I ordered them from Early Classic Enterprises.. These were galvanized and I primed them with etching primer, then painted them, but of course sanding before and in between. They are made for the drop spindles but they have ones for stock spindles too.
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[67c10rustbuket]

Originally Posted by ~Whitey~

Thanks! the dust shields... I ordered them from Early Classic Enterprises.. These were galvanized and I primed them with etching primer, then painted them, but of course sanding before and in between. They are made for the drop spindles but they have ones for stock spindles too.
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Thanks! I had a little technical difficulty finding them on their website before but I got it figured out. I have a set on the way

[~Whitey~]

Originally Posted by 67c10rustbuket

Thanks! I had a little technical difficulty finding them on their website before but I got it figured out. I have a set on the way

Cool cool... Their website leaves a little to be desired, but it's way better than some others I've been on. They're great to deal and are very helpful if you have any questions. Glad you found them!
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[~Whitey~]

Here's a few pics of the cab in primer, and where it'll stay while I work on the fenders, inner fenders, doors, and core support.





This is another part of the gap repair, I added a strip of 14 gauge in to get it even tighter.





Over the weekend I worked on stripping this drivers fender down and treated it inside and out with Fast Etch and Pre from Eastwood. Going to work on the other side then get these in primer. Sure wish I had the budget for sandblasting, THIS was ALOT of work... but a labor of love. I wanted to get it all to bare metal so my paint job don't look like the paint Im stripping off. Adhesion problems galore!



Couldn't resist laying some emblems on it. Love that brushed metal look. :-)

[TexasLS1]

What'd did you use as paint for your frame/suspension parts? Plan to paint a sway bar and then control arms when I lower mine, but not sure what's best to use..

Awesome build, I look forward to seeing more!!

[jmking9]

Nice work Jimmy, this thing is looking great! I was worried that you might have lost interest since this is Jeep season. I know the feeling, I told myself I could get another Jeep when the 70 was done. Well, the truck has been done (for the most part) for about two weeks, and I have already got another Jeep in the driveway.
Anyway, the trucks looking killer, keep up the good work. BTW, are you going to Riverside in Sept? I might try to make it.

[Low Elco]

come on come on, We'd love to have ya!

[~Whitey~]

Originally Posted by TexasLS1

What'd did you use as paint for your frame/suspension parts? Plan to paint a sway bar and then control arms when I lower mine, but not sure what's best to use..

Awesome build, I look forward to seeing more!!

Hey thanks for the props! Well they're are so many options as to what you can use, for me when it came to the frame and suspension parts, because of money at the time... I wire brushed the dirt off, then stripped to bare metal with a stripper disc, used degreaser, then sprayed with a rust convertor (from Oreillys) be sure to let it dry first for 24 hours before painting on top of it, Used etching primer, sanded it, then used Rustoleums Black Hammered Paint for the frame (turns out Charcoal Grey) and I Used Rustoleums Industrial Gloss Black for everything else. I was not chinsy on the coats either... They're better ways to go about it, alot of people swear by the POR products, others like Eastwoods Frame paint, but really it's all in the prep. If you prep it good, pretty much anythings going to stick and stay for a long time... A friend of mine used rustoleum on his frame 10 years ago and it still looks great and didn't cost him an arm and a leg, which is why I went ahead with it. I guess if money is no object, have your stuff sandblasted and powder coated, that would be ideal.

Originally Posted by jmking9

Nice work Jimmy, this thing is looking great! I was worried that you might have lost interest since this is Jeep season. I know the feeling, I told myself I could get another Jeep when the 70 was done. Well, the truck has been done (for the most part) for about two weeks, and I have already got another Jeep in the driveway.
Anyway, the trucks looking killer, keep up the good work. BTW, are you going to Riverside in Sept? I might try to make it.

Thanks! I sold the Jeep to help finance the Harley, so it's been Harley Season for the last couple months, but I'm going to build another Jeep after the truck is done. Congrats on your new Jeep, they're ALOT of fun. Riverside I'd love to come, but I know the truck won't be done or even able to start by that time. I still have body work, paint, wiring, sound deadening, interior this and that... and the list goes on.. I know I'll be busy busy this winter because this thing is gonna be cruising next spring/summer if it's the last thing I do!

Originally Posted by Low Elco

come on come on, We'd love to have ya!

I'd love to come, even without my truck, maybe the wife and I will ride the bike out so I can come meet some of you all... and your trucks! I'm not real hip on draggin the truck out there in it's current condition, but if I can get the cab, doors, fenders in paint by then, I might just load it up.

[Bennett68C10]

Nice job on the fender, I just pulled mine off the front clip and took the trim, markers and emblems off of them. Just wanted to see what I have to work with. I have a little rust work to do and will probably need to blast them. They have surface rust in some hard to reach areas.
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[~Whitey~]

Originally Posted by Bennett68C10

Nice job on the fender, I just pulled mine off the front clip and took the trim, markers and emblems off of them. Just wanted to see what I have to work with. I have a little rust work to do and will probably need to blast them. They have surface rust in some hard to reach areas.
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Inside the fender at the top is where the worst of mine was at, wish I could have sent them off for blasting and normally would have but the same guys who blasted my cab ($300) wanted $100 each to do the fenders. Crazy. So I had to do it here at home with a 3m paint/rust stripper wheel, screw driver and sand paper and patience! What I couldn't get to with those things I used a wire brush to loosen anything up and used the Fast Etch which converts the rust, then painted those areas with rust encapsulator... took some time but I believe they'll be good for years to come.
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[Bennett68C10]

Originally Posted by ~Whitey~

Inside the fender at the top is where the worst of mine was at, wish I could have sent them off for blasting and normally would have but the same guys who blasted my cab ($300) wanted $100 each to do the fenders. Crazy. So I had to do it here at home with a 3m paint/rust stripper wheel, screw driver and sand paper and patience! What I couldn't get to with those things I used a wire brush to loosen anything up and used the Fast Etch which converts the rust, then painted those areas with rust encapsulator... took some time but I believe they'll be good for years to come.
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That is the exact same place the worse of mine is at, thanks for the tips. I'll probably be doing the same exact thing.
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[knomadd]

I just ran across your thread. I'm impressed with how you fixed your door gap issue. And your dash looks amazing. I'll be following along now...

[Low Elco]

Good strippin'! Always fun.

[~Whitey~]

Originally Posted by knomadd

I just ran across your thread. I'm impressed with how you fixed your door gap issue. And your dash looks amazing. I'll be following along now...

Thank you! I'll try to keep you entertained.

Originally Posted by Bennett68C10

That is the exact same place the worse of mine is at, thanks for the tips. I'll probably be doing the same exact thing.
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no problem, I'm sure blasting would be better, but sometimes you gotta do what you can.

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Good strippin'! Always fun.

Oh yeah... SO much fun, about as fun as an all day welding & grind fest!

[c20chevy1972]

nice work

[~Whitey~]

Originally Posted by c20chevy1972

nice work

Thanks I appreciate it!
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