Power Brake Booster Adapter Bracket

[HeavyHauler]

How did you guys get your power brake booster mounted to this bracket? I purchased a 9 inch Tuff Stuff booster and there is little to no room to get to the nuts that attach the booster to the bracket?

[Captainfab]

Are the studs on the booster too long?

[HeavyHauler]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Are the studs on the booster too long?

Yep the studs were long and created problems, but I ended up creating a tool to get them tightened. I cut down a 9/16 wrench to shorten it and was able to get them tightened. I didnt want to take the booster off as I had all other bolts tightened down already and didnt want to yank it to cut the studs.

I had thought about doing that but I am not sure if cutting the studs would have helped in my application. Thanks!

[MASTERBrian]

Captfab, I purchased one of your brackets for my 60 suburban and hung 90 c1500 booster and master assembly, I believe, on it. CPP brakes up front SSI valve and drums in there rear. My cammed sbc350 truck stops great!

A buddy bought a 63 with a 6.0 ls motor with discs up front and drums in back and keeps fighting a spongy/ soft pedal. He's gone from a dual 6-7"booster to a dual 11" booster and no difference and even changed to Dane master I have and wilwood valve.

I keep telling him to order your bracket, but it's been 3yrs since I ordered and thus I can't recall what exactly he gains by doing this. I believe it fixes the angle.... is there more to it and could this this likely fix his issues? Also, which bracket would he need. Here only has 2 holes on firewall, so he'd have to drill two more.

[Captainfab]

Your buddy's issue could be caused by the valve in the prop valve partially blocking one side. It could also be an issue of the booster pushrod being in the original hole and not 1" lower as most people do. My booster bracket does mount the booster/master at a slight angle which keeps everything a little more in line when you move the pushrod down 1" on the brake pedal. All '63-'66 trucks have 4 holes in the firewall and the corresponding threaded holes in the pedal bracket. That is the other advantage of using my booster bracket. All of my booster brackets utilize all of the available factory mounting holes to provide a solid connection between the booster/ master and the pedal bracket on the inside. Most people do not under stand the importance of this.

BTW this for sale thread is for the '67-'72 standard booster bracket. The for sale thread for the '63-'66 standard booster bracket is here.

http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=339081

Originally Posted by MASTERBrian

Captfab, I purchased one of your brackets for my 60 suburban and hung 90 c1500 booster and master assembly, I believe, on it. CPP brakes up front SSI valve and drums in there rear. My cammed sbc350 truck stops great!

A buddy bought a 63 with a 6.0 ls motor with discs up front and drums in back and keeps fighting a spongy/ soft pedal. He's gone from a dual 6-7"booster to a dual 11" booster and no difference and even changed to Dane master I have and wilwood valve.

I keep telling him to order your bracket, but it's been 3yrs since I ordered and thus I can't recall what exactly he gains by doing this. I believe it fixes the angle.... is there more to it and could this this likely fix his issues? Also, which bracket would he need. Here only has 2 holes on firewall, so he'd have to drill two more.

[MASTERBrian]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Your buddy's issue could be caused by the valve in the prop valve partially blocking one side. It could also be an issue of the booster pushrod being in the original hole and not 1" lower as most people do. My booster bracket does mount the booster/master at a slight angle which keeps everything a little more in line when you move the pushrod down 1" on the brake pedal. All '63-'66 trucks have 4 holes in the firewall and the corresponding threaded holes in the pedal bracket. That is the other advantage of using my booster bracket. All of my booster brackets utilize all of the available factory mounting holes to provide a solid connection between the booster/ master and the pedal bracket on the inside. Most people do not under stand the importance of this.

BTW this for sale thread is for the '67-'72 standard booster bracket. The for sale thread for the '63-'66 standard booster bracket is here.

http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=339081

Thanks for the feedback. I wondered if I had the wrong thread after I posted. Hopefully, he'll just order the bracket, this issues been plaguing him for several weeks now. He bought the truck this way.

I know I questioned a lot of this stuff when I did mine because I was starting from factory and gutted it all. As I said mine works great now.

[HeavyHauler]

I have a power brake booster adapter bracket on my 1968 Chevy C10 shortbed and i also installed a brand new Tuff Stuff 9in booster TFF-2224NB.

My 68 is originally a 396 engine with 400 turbo automatic and column shift. There is a very long shift rod that is attached to a shift lever down near the trans then up near the power brake booster to a lever there.

The problem is that long rod is hitting the bottom of the booster and will not allow me to shift at all.

I knew some where having issues with a shift lever but a smaller booster was supposed to fix that...but this is a long rod hitting the bottom of the booster.

The rod looks to be a factory type of assembly but I could be wrong.

Anybody else run into this issue and what you did to solve it? Thanks!

[Captainfab]

Can you post a pic or two so we can visualize what is going on?

[HeavyHauler]

Here is the rod that i was referring to. It is the long rod that is hitting the bottom of the power brake booster. It seems that even if I cut the rod the lever the rod attaches to would also end up hitting the bottom of the booster. I will post another angle as well from up above

[HeavyHauler]

The shift lever is in drive right now, but the shift rod is hitting the bottom of the booster and will not let me shift into Park Reverse or Neutral.

If I cut the rod or installed a shorter rod so the lever could move up then I think the lever would end up hitting the booster as well. I say this because when you look at the shift detent plate that the shift lever slides against you can see the small hump on the plate which separates the reverse and park position. The park position is just to the right of that hump as seen in the pic and the reverse position is to the left of that hump.

I am trying to find a shorter rod to install so I can actually find out if that lever will also hit the booster when a shorter rod is installed. I dont want to cut my factory lever.

[HeavyHauler]

My truck is a 1968 Chevy C10 shortbed fleetside that came from the factory with 396 bigblock and 400 turbo transmission.

[Captainfab]

I'm just going by what past '67-'72 customers have told be that a 10" or smaller booster is needed with a column shift.

[HeavyHauler]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I'm just going by what past '67-'72 customers have told be that a 10" or smaller booster is needed with a column shift.

Yeah that is why I purchased the 9 inch booster in the pic.

[HeavyHauler]

I removed the rod and sure enough the lever also hits the 9 inch booster.

[Captainfab]

Sorry but I do not know what is different about your truck versus what others have done. How much more does the lever need to move after it hits the booster?

[HeavyHauler]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Sorry but I do not know what is different about your truck versus what others have done. How much more does the lever need to move after it hits the booster?

Maybe 1/8 to 1/4 of a inch more.

[Dodge68charger]

Will This Bracket Work With The CPP 11 inch Booster and a Column Shift On The 67-72 c10s? Thanks
Posted via Mobile Device

[Captainfab]

As long as the booster doesn't have the '71-'72 mounting stud pattern it will bolt up to any of my booster brackets. However you can not use an 11" booster on my booster bracket with a column shifted trans in a '67-'72. You would have to use a smaller 9 or maybe 10" dual diaphragm.

Originally Posted by Dodge68charger

Will This Bracket Work With The CPP 11 inch Booster and a Column Shift On The 67-72 c10s? Thanks
Posted via Mobile Device

[Dodge68charger]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

As long as the booster doesn't have the '71-'72 mounting stud pattern it will bolt up to any of my booster brackets. However you can not use an 11" booster on my booster bracket with a column shifted trans in a '67-'72. You would have to use a smaller 9 or maybe 10" dual diaphragm.

Thank You. I ll See If i Can Return My 11 Inch and Get a 9 Inch
Posted via Mobile Device

[derotoreut]

Captain, looking to buy one of your power brake booster for my 70 K10 in black powdercoat, but I have a couple of concerns before I pull the trigger. I recently swapped to a disc brake front axle. I bought a booster/master setup from Performance Online (https://www.performanceonline.com/19...ster-Cylinder/), but I don't like the booster bracket. The angle of the bracket is so dramatic that tips the Wilwood master up in front. Not only does it make the fluid level of the master difficult to maintain, but it's also not aesthetically appealing. It does however put the push rod in the proper location on my pedal for me drill a new hole to get the right pedal ratio (4.5:1 for power booster).

I'm hoping that your bracket not only reduces this drastic angle, but will also allow me to connect the pedal rod in the proper location without putting stress on the booster. I'm also somewhat concerned about the overall depth of your bracket and if I'll have a clearance problem with the booster boot at the firewall. Your bracket is not real thick (I think like maybe 2"). This may cause the booster boot to actually go through the firewall. Please provide comments.

[Captainfab]

All of my booster brackets are at a slight angle, but I have no idea how it compares to the bracket you already have. Does the bracket you have use all the factory mounting studs coming out of the pedal bracket? That is an important consideration when mounting a booster/master assembly. The thickness of the '67-'72 standard booster bracket is about 2" in the center. Depending on the diameter of the booster you have, there could be interference with a column shifted auto trans, if that is what you have.

[derotoreut]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

All of my booster brackets are at a slight angle, but I have no idea how it compares to the bracket you already have. Does the bracket you have use all the factory mounting studs coming out of the pedal bracket? That is an important consideration when mounting a booster/master assembly. The thickness of the '67-'72 standard booster bracket is about 2" in the center. Depending on the diameter of the booster you have, there could be interference with a column shifted auto trans, if that is what you have.

The bracket on the new master/booster uses the factory mounting locations. I put a link in my last message so you could see what it looks like. My truck does not have studs anymore. During my LS swap and restoration work I removed the studs from the brake pedal assembly and drilled/tapped those locations in order to use stainless button head socket screws bolted from the firewall. Below is a picture of the engine bay with the factory booster that will be replaced with the new Wilwood master/booster assembly. The new booster is 9" diameter, which should clear OK. I do have column shift, but use the Lokar shifter on an Ididit column. I don't think that clearance will be a problem there either.

I was mainly concerned about the distance between firewall and booster face. I know your bracket pulls the booster closer to the firewall. And the new booster has a boot/rod connection that's about 3" long from the back face. Part of that boot will likely have to stick through (or interfere with) my firewall depending on your design depth.

I may take a chance on it anyway. What is the current lead time for black powder coated version. PM me and let me know how to pay. You can review the pictures/comments below and let me know what you think.

Original booster and master cylinder will be replaced with a Wilwood master and 9" booster.


My firewall no longer has studs from the pedal assembly. They have been removed and drilled/tapped.


I want to be sure that this booster boot length will work with your bracket.


The booster is 9" diameter

[Captainfab]

Since the boot on the booster is longer than 2", it will pass thru the hole in the firewall. Due to an overwhelming number of orders, I am currently 21 days out on building and shipping orders. The powder coating may take 2-3 days longer. PM sent.

[Steve Cole]

Hey Captain, I need one of your 67-72 booster brackets, do you have any ready yet?
Thanks.

[Captainfab]

No I do not have any of my products welded up and sitting on shelves ready to ship at a moments notice. That is physically impossible to do with the overwhelming number of orders I have and with working 80hrs/7 days a week very week every month. I am currently 26 days out on building and shipping orders.

Originally Posted by Steve Cole

Hey Captain, I need one of your 67-72 booster brackets, do you have any ready yet?
Thanks.