No Limit '72 C-10

[Conundrum]

I have another question on the caster mod.....
Is there a reason for moving the lca forward 3/4" and uca 1/2" rearward instead of moving them both 5/8"?
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[hairlesshobo]

The more you move the lower forward the more it will center the tire in the fender well. Other than that, I don't see a reason. Someone correct me if I'm wrong...
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[Conundrum]

When I Zed my frame I moved the whole front suspension forward so my wheels are centered.
I was wondering if it had something to do with the steering?
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[aggie91]

Originally Posted by Conundrum

I have another question on the caster mod.....
Is there a reason for moving the lca forward 3/4" and uca 1/2" rearward instead of moving them both 5/8"?
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Originally Posted by hairlesshobo

The more you move the lower forward the more it will center the tire in the fender well. Other than that, I don't see a reason. Someone correct me if I'm wrong...
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This gives you a big improvement in caster. It also helps center the wheel in the opening on some years. Most of the benifit is in the increased caster, thats why you move the lower forward and the upper rearward.

[Conundrum]

Originally Posted by aggie91

This gives you a big improvement in caster. It also helps center the wheel in the opening on some years. Most of the benifit is in the increased caster, thats why you move the lower forward and the upper rearward.

I get the change to caster, but what I was wondering was if there was a specific reason for moving the lower 3/4" and upper 1/2" instead of an equal 5/8" each?
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[mooseknuckles]

....more caster.

[robnolimit]

when I did the JT, I went 1" on the bottom, and shimmed the top. You need about 1 1/8" to 1 1/4" of offset between the top and bottom ball joints to get the caster in range. There are many ways to do it. Stock C-10's have the wheel too far back, and the lower you go, the more noticable it is. Moving the ball joints in a way that helps cure this gives you a 2 for 1 mod.

[Conundrum]

Thanks Rob!

I don't have to worry about moving to wheel forward because I did that when I Zed the frame. So I think i'll go with 5/8" top and bottom then so that my wheels stay centered.

[mild2wild]

What are your wheel and tire specs?

[robnolimit]

We're running 18 x 9 wheels all around, with 275-40-18 BFG KDW

[truck farmer]

Hey Rob, correct me if im wrong but, did you say in an earlier post that if we already had your panhard bar kit that you would take some off the price of the rear sway bar kit? since i already have the trailing arm brackets.

[robnolimit]

yep, you already have theTA mounts, so you save $25 bucks.

[duallyjams]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

We're running 18 x 9 wheels all around, with 275-40-18 BFG KDW

What is the b/s on the wheels and what is the over all height and width on the tires.

[truck farmer]

Thanks Rob, I'll be ordering that shortly. how do I let them know I already have the TA mounts when I order?

[Conundrum]

Hey Rob, not wanting to sound pushy but do you think that 3/4" is a safe amount to drop the uca mounting points? I'm getting ready to section crossmember and I am going to incorporate the caster mod as well and was thinking of welding the crossmeber to the frame this time. Just curious, I can wait to weld it in until after the math is done for this mod if it needs more research still.

[aggie91]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

Just so you know, the stock exhaust manifolds would not fit. So, we got a set of the new Hedman 3/4 length for LS. When I was a kid, Hedman was not so great. But I have too tell you, these are NICE. 3/8" flanges, 16 gauge tubing, and nice collectors. Here's the best part, they fit GREAT! I can tell we'll be using a lot of these in the future.

Rob - Do you have a part number for these headers? I've searched but can't find a Headman set that looks like the ones in the pictures in that post (Post #195). We are did a raise crossmember in an '82 and will be using a 5.3 out of a GMC truck. We liked how the headers you used fit.

Thanks,

[robnolimit]

I'll look for it. We're in thrash mode at the moment, may be wed.

[aggie91]

Thanks, Rob
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[Low Elco]

Aggie-Page 8&9.

The headman part # is 45660. They are available plain, or HTP ceramic coated.

[robnolimit]

thanks Elco

[Greywolf200]

Congrats on the feature in Street Trucks on JT.

Jack

[Littletony]

Originally Posted by duallyjams

What is the b/s on the wheels and what is the over all height and width on the tires.

x2

[robnolimit]

wheels are 18 x 9, with 6 1/4" bs. I would have liked 5 1/2" bs, but these were donated. Tires net at 27.8 x 10.75

[Can't kech me]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

We set the cab on using urathane mounts, and squared it all up nice. Next, we slid in our used 5.3 and boted it in. Now, I bought an ECE mount for the trans, and I like it a lot. It catches both the top and bottom of the frame, so it would help stiffen the chassis. But, someone welded in some tubes in our chassis, so the ECE mount won't go in. So we used one of ours. Urathane on the motor mounts, rubber on the trans. The oil pan hung down a bit, so we cut it off, shortened the pan 1 3/4", and added to the sump a bit forward. (i'll get some picts) The motor is as far back as we could get it in the stock firewall.

Ok, i pmed you about this, but i finally took the time to figure it out, is the oil pan steel or aluminum? if it is steel what kind? Could i do it with a MIG welder on 75/25 carbon/argon with regular .023 wire for steel? thanks so much if i am able to shorten the sump myself it save me a TON of money

[robnolimit]

The pan is aluminum, and a fair job to modify. Now, you can get new pans from Speedway, Summit, and Jegs for cheap.
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