Project: Recycle

[SCOTI]

Thanks guys.

Lolife99, I used SS lock washers (the split-lock washers are readily available). This give more clamping force on the bolt/nut & keeps the end that turns off of the fresh PC/paint. I also used nyloc nuts everywhere except for the front shocks (not available in that particular sizing). All nuts/bolt for frame, brackets, & x-members is GRADE-8. The T/A mounts got GRADE-9.

Aggie91, the a-arms are mounted different vs. typical set-ups. I tried them both ways & couldn't see any difference as far as functionality. The way I installed them just 'looked' cleaner. We also installed the BJ from the bottom of the arm (again, a cleaner look). My feeling is the binding is a result of absolutely no shims for the upper a-arms. Space them out .750" or so & I think I'll be fine. The tie-rods were definitely in bind..... As soon as I raised the suspension, I could easily adjust the toe; with it dumped, I couldn't get the adapter sleeve to budge.

Rolling stock is 215-70-15's on 15x6's & 285-60-16's on 16x10's.

[Captainfab]

Looks great Scot

[lakeroadster]

Almost a shame to put the cab and bed on that, it's a rolling platform for your skills and abilities. Awesome

[darkhorse970]

That looks great, I REALLY LIKE the tire/wheel combo! Where did you get those rear wheels?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by darkhorse970

That looks great, I REALLY LIKE the tire/wheel combo! Where did you get those rear wheels?

Had them built & I would not recommend the place that did it (Stockton Wheel).

[198plus]

Nice job on chassis, looks great !!!!!!!!

[n2billet]

Eleven days.....I know your not sitting on your hands so what's been done?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by n2billet

Eleven days.....I know your not sitting on your hands so what's been done?

Unfortunately, not much. Still waiting on the shock bushings. The drivetrain hasn't moved from its spot in the garage. I need enough time to get everything in one location & w/my schedule that means weekend 'days' (Sat one week, Sun the next). But, my weekend guys have taken personal days the last 2 weeks so I covered a Sat for one, Sun for the other.

I've been around the house more so I've been doing small things w/the dually. A much needed brake inspection, some detail cleaning, & then replacing the master cylinder. Then onto cosmetics.... front bumper w/impact strip is gone. Rear hide-away space carrier is gone. 'Urban cowboy' exhaust tips are gone. Today while waiting for the plumbers to arrive @ the house to repair my leaking water main ( line from the meter that supplies the house split), I removed the rear 'work' bumper & swapped the sport bumper in place to determine the hitch requirements.

I still have to get x-mas shopping done too. So progress.... just not on the 64.

[72BlckButy]

Awesome attention to detail!

[Jonboy]

Definitely the right wheel and tire combo for this truck. Frame looks great, definitely worth all the hassle. When is the body swap party? I'm in!

[67cheby]

cleanest Z i have ever seen, super nice job

[VA72C10]

As stated, it looks awesome! If this is "practice"..... I really can't wait to see the 67

[likaroc13]

very nice...that's the same idea i had/have for my wheel & tire plans unless something changes...keep up the nice work!

[SCOTI]

Well, I got the rear Bilsteins delivered today so I though I would do a quick trial fit to make sure there were no suprises. Suprise! They need to be modified.

The lower mounting stud on 'generic' shocks is typically separate from the shock. The stud mounts to the frame or bracket & is secured w/a nut. The shock bushing slides over the shaft of the stud & is secured to the stud w/another nut (just like the front shocks).

On Bilsteins, the stud is press-fit into the bushing & is one piece w/the shock. The only way to secure the lower end of the shock is to mount the stud/shock combo in place & tighten the nut from the back of the mount. Not a problem w/standard lower coil spring shock mounts but it IS a problem w/the Porterbuilt lower shock mount as there's very little room to access the nut.

With PB's set-up, you have enough room to put a wrench on the nut to keep it from spinning & you simply tighten the stud from the front side..... It works well when the stud & bushing is 2 pieces.

Sooo..... I cut the stud apart to press it out of the shock eye & bushing. The fit was so tight, it wouldn't press the stud out, it pressed the entire bushing & stud out as a unit. I then had to press the stud out of the bushing.
1st pic.... Bilstein stud vs. generic shock stud
2nd pic... Bilstein stud cut apart to press out of bushing
3rd pic.... Bilstein shock stud & bushing

[SCOTI]

So I go to try & squeeze the bushing back into the shock eye..... that was like putting a square peg into a round hole. It squished/squirmed one way or the other vs. into the hole. On to Plan B.

Plan B. I figured would just require getting a typical 2pc bushing w/a sleeve (each half of the bushing slips in place from the opposite side of the shock eye & a sleeve is pressed in place). I got all the dimensions from the bushing & shock eye to start my net search. Hhmm.... it seems what I need is not exactly a common size. In fact, nothing seems to be available in a 2pc.

So, now I'm contemplating my options. I might try to freeze the supplied bushings & cut them in half (effectively making my own split bushing); or I did find a 1pc poly bushing from Prothane w/similar dimensions that I could do the same (cut it in half making it a 2pc bushing).

I guess I should know by now, it's never simple....

[watahyahknow]

hmmmm use wash up liquid to grease the bushing and clamp the lot intoo a vice with a couple of big ratchet sockets to push the bushing in far enough and tighten , or do the same thing with a piece of treaded rod stuck through the whole setup fitted with some nuts and washers ( this might actually work better )

they put the thing in there before so it should fit

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by watahyahknow

hmmmm use wash up liquid to grease the bushing and clamp the lot intoo a vice with a couple of big ratchet sockets to push the bushing in far enough and tighten , or do the same thing with a piece of treaded rod stuck through the whole setup fitted with some nuts and washers ( this might actually work better )

they put the thing in there before so it should fit

That's basically how I was attempting to draw the bushing in. The problem was once the 'set-up' was tightened to draw the bushing into place, the bushing expanded making it that mush harder (because of its now larger diameter) to pull into the shock eye.

We have deep freezers @ work. I'm going to try the same process today after freezing the bushings @ -60°.

[my67chevytruck]

awesome work Scoti!

[SCOTI]

Freezing the bushings didn't help so last night I cut one in half. That allowed me to get the bushing pressed back into the shock eye but there's no way even a .500" bolt is going to pass through w/o forcing one of the bushing 'halfs' out.

I need to order the mufflers from Summit today so I'll order some poly shock bushings, cut them in half, & use them (the poly bushings have a larger dia bolt hole).

Last night, my buddy Matt stopped by the shop to see the chassis. He said it looked better in person than in the pics so that made me a happy camper.

[SCOTI]

I ordered some Prothane (poly) shock bushings & mufflers. Once I get the bushings, I'll cut them up to use in the shocks. I'm just hoping they're not going to be noisy.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I ordered some Prothane poly shock bushings & mufflers.

You ordered the bushing mufflers, but forgot the muffler bearings...

[67cheby]

Blinker fluid....dont forget it

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

You ordered the bushing mufflers, but forgot the muffler bearings...

They came w/the flux capacitor . . .....

[Jonboy]

Let me know when you have the swap party. I'm definitely in.

[n2billet]

(Y.S.) I would like to see some pictures......have you installed the motor/trans yet?