What did you do to your truck today.The 3rd chapter

[Kelly1966]

Well, today was working on getting the engine ready for paint, (clean, detail, debug ect.) and work on installing the new suspension parts.

[hdrolling]

Brought my old driveshaft in for new u-joints because of a vibration I was having, shop checked it and it turned out to be bent and the previous owner had welded it together poorly and the welds were cracking.
Had the shop build me a new overnight with a little thicker diameter, heading out to install it now.

[oneshotkyle]

Removed engine for a re-seal and repaint, gonna get installed back with th350.
All the suspension dismantled for powder and complete rebuild with caster mod disc conversion and drop spindles

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by hdrolling

Brought my old driveshaft in for new u-joints because of a vibration I was having, shop checked it and it turned out to be bent and the previous owner had welded it together poorly and the welds were cracking.
Had the shop build me a new overnight with a little thicker diameter, heading out to install it now.

I had a local specialist weld a new ''pipe'' on my single piece propshaft for my '68 C/10 Stepside. Kept as many original parts as possible. New u-joints.
Cost me $450 but it was worth it.

Mine got a deep dent when I got T-Boned on the way to the union picnic two years ago. I had a core differential rebuilt, and replaced the trailing arms, but missed the ding in the shaft. The truck would vibrate excessively above 60 MPH. Now it runs smooth.
Still have to see if the frame needs straightening, or its only out of alignment.

Overnight? My guy took about 4 weeks. But he's a one man band, and said his alignment computer burned its chip.

[hdrolling]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

I had a local specialist weld a new ''pipe'' on my single piece propshaft for my '68 C/10 Stepside. Kept as many original parts as possible. New u-joints.
Cost me $450 but it was worth it.

Mine got a deep dent when I got T-Boned on the way to the union picnic two years ago. I had a core differential rebuilt, and replaced the trailing arms, but missed the ding in the shaft. The truck would vibrate excessively above 60 MPH. Now it runs smooth.
Still have to see if the frame needs straightening, or its only out of alignment.

Overnight? My guy took about 4 weeks. But he's a one man band, and said his alignment computer burned its chip.

Yes mine had a slight vibration as well, figured it was a bad ujoint. The shop had it finished same day but they waited until morning so the new paint had time to dry. Trucks running nice and smooth now.

4 weeks is a bit of a wait, I see some of the online builders will get one out in a few days after you send your measurements.
I figured a week for mine, had to have him repeat it when he said I could have it in the morning.

[72c20customcamper]

You like your manifold rare or well done

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by 72c20customcamper

You like your manifold rare or well done

Well done.
When my Mom ordered a new range, I interceded before the appliance store boys could cart off the old Hotpoint. I set it up in the backyard. I had to tie in a 220 line and outlet so I could power it. I baked a new set of Hedman headers after airbrushing on some black ceramic coat from Eastwood. Two hours at 500*. Came out pretty good.
Then I mummy-wrapped the headers with 2'' fiberglass wrap. I had shot the stuff inside as well as out, so I thought it would hold up. Unfortunately, the wrap retained moisture, so one of the downtubes on the drivers side rusted out after only 7 years. [In Arizona.] Then I found out the hard way, Hedmans are lifetime guaranteed, but not if you use mummy wrap.

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

Well done.
When my Mom ordered a new range, I interceded before the appliance store boys could cart off the old Hotpoint. I set it up in the backyard. I had to tie in a 220 line and outlet so I could power it. I baked a new set of Hedman headers after airbrushing on some black ceramic coat from Eastwood. Two hours at 500*. Came out pretty good.
Then I mummy-wrapped the headers with 2'' fiberglass wrap. I had shot the stuff inside as well as out, so I thought it would hold up. Unfortunately, the wrap retained moisture, so one of the downtubes on the drivers side rusted out after only 7 years. [In Arizona.] Then I found out the hard way, Hedmans are lifetime guaranteed, but not if you use mummy wrap.

The wrap is the worst thing for headers . Seen many motorcycles with fairly new exhaust ruined in short order .

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by 72c20customcamper

The wrap is the worst thing for headers . Seen many motorcycles with fairly new exhaust ruined in short order .

Oh well. I was younger and dumber.
It looked cool.
Underhood temperatures kept down.
Exhaust tones were almost like a Cadillac's.

And no one told me it caused corrosion. At least I thought I'd get a bye from the arid climate of Southern Arizona. [I have a set of Clifford headers on my 292 L6 that I have been running since 1978.] Also I thought shooting the insides would make it more corrosion proof.

We live and learn...

[72c20customcamper]

These came this morning . The free Summit shipping is great here most times if I order early the parts come the next day . Decided I didn’t like the original manifolds on the new engine .

[KQQL IT]

Had some re pop M/T center cap stickers made up.

[72c20customcamper]

Easiest header install I’ve ever done . One glitch the rear bolt on number 2 exhaust wouldn’t make the angle to go in . I heated the header and put a tiny dimple and it went right in . Headman offered to replace them under warranty but it was so minor I didn’t go that route . The headers fit perfectly .

['68OrangeSunshine]

After my Hedman headers rusted out, I was careful to order the same part number for the replacement. However ''Progress'' had marched on -- and the Collector/Exhaust junctions were now a new Ball style. Not the 3 bolt sets that press a flat gasket. So I had to sawzall-off the ends and run 7 miles to Midas to get Ball ends welded on my exhaust pipes.
Then I found out a year later my local Hot Rod Shop could have gotten me the old school Hedmans if I bought them there. But I thought I was saving a buck at Jegs.

Anyway, for the old school Collector/Exhaust gaskets, I found the thicker Copper ones were the best. Never burned out.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by 72c20customcamper

Easiest header install I’ve ever done . One glitch the rear bolt on number 2 exhaust wouldn’t make the angle to go in . I heated the header and put a tiny dimple and it went right in . Headman offered to replace them under warranty but it was so minor I didn’t go that route . The headers fit perfectly .

Nice beefy flanges! Those should hold up well.

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

After my Hedman headers rusted out, I was careful to order the same part number for the replacement. However ''Progress'' had marched on -- and the Collector/Exhaust junctions were now a new Ball style. Not the 3 bolt sets that press a flat gasket. So I had to sawzall-off the ends and run 7 miles to Midas to get Ball ends welded on my exhaust pipes.
Then I found out a year later my local Hot Rod Shop could have gotten me the old school Hedmans if I bought them there. But I thought I was saving a buck at Jegs.

Anyway, for the old school Collector/Exhaust gaskets, I found the thicker Copper ones were the best. Never burned out.

The rust thing is why I went with stainless steel . The Doug’s ceramic headers on my Chevelle look like . They rusted just about as fast as painted ones and this is a nice ce weather car . If they go I’ll go with stainless on that too

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

Nice beefy flanges! Those should hold up well.

I was very impressed with the flange thickness and overall thickness of the headers . Took a bit of force to dimple the one tube even heated . Now I need to get some pipes for the exhaust

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by 72c20customcamper

The rust thing is why I went with stainless steel . The Doug’s ceramic headers on my Chevelle look like . They rusted just about as fast as painted ones and this is a nice ce weather car . If they go I’ll go with stainless on that too



I was very impressed with the flange thickness and overall thickness of the headers . Took a bit of force to dimple the one tube even heated . Now I need to get some pipes for the exhaust

I've run headers on vehicles in the past, and leaks were always an issue. I've stayed away from them for decades because of that. I'd be interested to know if those stainless headers ring less than the regular steel type. I'd like to get the engine in my truck rebuilt sometime in the future, and wouldn't mind seeing the cast iron manifolds gone, but that ringing is unacceptable to me.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by 72c20customcamper

The rust thing is why I went with stainless steel . The Doug’s ceramic headers on my Chevelle look like . They rusted just about as fast as painted ones and this is a nice ce weather car . If they go I’ll go with stainless on that too



I was very impressed with the flange thickness and overall thickness of the headers . Took a bit of force to dimple the one tube even heated . Now I need to get some pipes for the exhaust

I am not likely to need headers anytime soon. But next project, I will look into SS headers. Even if they are twice the price, if they outlast three sets of rusty ones, you're ahead.
I expected more mojo out of Ceramic coating.

Now that the '71 Jimmy's not my DD, I can run it on the siding and R+R the headers. Gonna paint them White with the cheapest Ace Hardware stove paint I could find, and reinstall them with fresh gaskets and re-attach the Dipstick tube to the side of the Block.
I still have my Mom's old Hotpoint. Hoping the resident packrats have left some internal insulation...
Bake Two hours at 500*.

[KQQL IT]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

I've run headers on vehicles in the past, and leaks were always an issue. I've stayed away from them for decades because of that. I'd be interested to know if those stainless headers ring less than the regular steel type. I'd like to get the engine in my truck rebuilt sometime in the future, and wouldn't mind seeing the cast iron manifolds gone, but that ringing is unacceptable to me.

That hasn't been my experience.
Tri Y on a 454 haven't touched them since 2017 when I bought the truck.

And 4 -1 on a sbc been together since 2016 zero maintenance
nor leaks.

Dougs tags on both sets.

[BRL]

Originally Posted by KQQL IT

. ..And 4 -1 on a sbc been together since 2016 zero maintenance
nor leaks...

I've been very impressed with these crusty old headers, I used copper gaskets on the heads and collectors and added Permetex copper colored gasket sealant to them.
I also cut the metal bars between the ports because I read that would help to prevent any metal warpage from unsealing the ports.
Must have done something right because I installed the headers around 1999 and they've sealed perfectly ever since.

[BRL]

Oh yea, it has kind of warmed up around here today so I waxed the truck.
Stuff still hasn't dried as of this writing.
Thought I'd give the ladder a try to wax the roof and clean the windshield for some reason.
That worked out OK.

[KQQL IT]

Originally Posted by BRL

I've been very impressed with these crusty old headers, I used copper gaskets on the heads and collectors and added Permetex copper colored gasket sealant to them.
I also cut the metal bars between the ports because I read that would help to prevent any metal warpage from unsealing the ports.
Must have done something right because I installed the headers around 1999 and they've sealed perfectly ever since.

Maybe it's internet headers that leak.
I don't know..

[72c20customcamper]

Removed the old exhaust setting it aside for the 68 that I’m putting the old motor in

[BRL]

Originally Posted by KQQL IT

Maybe it's internet headers that leak.
I don't know..

God I hope not, now that I've posted they'll probably start leaking.
...I got some spares standing by.

Drove my '69 Nova from Mississippi to Washington one time and the engine started knocking!
Every steep hill I climbed the knock got louder and I just knew a rod was coming out the side of the block at any moment!
Made it home and discovered that some stupid header bolts had come loose.

ETA: As a side note I've never had to re-tighten these header bolts, as a matter of fact, I never even checked them so the bolts are probably rusted in the heads by now...great.
Heck I always thought they needed to be tightened again from time to time.

[zicc1835]

good day today went to a local show with this one and.....took best truck and then my friend Pat pictured helped me get this one out of my storage unit and back in my garage to see if I can finish by next May

[Sheepdip]

Originally Posted by 72c20customcamper

Easiest header install I’ve ever done . One glitch the rear bolt on number 2 exhaust wouldn’t make the angle to go in . I heated the header and put a tiny dimple and it went right in . Headman offered to replace them under warranty but it was so minor I didn’t go that route . The headers fit perfectly .

I read an article years ago, it may have been David Freiburger of HotRod Magazine where they dyno'd a SBC engine with new perfect headers, they then gave the headers the the old hammer to fit treatment.

The pulls they performed showed no measurable difference in performance.