Power windows? - Page 2 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

72402 · 03-10-2005, 10:39 PM

Thanks Edmond, those are the conduits that I use.

71RestoRod · 03-11-2005, 04:46 AM

Parts showed up today… Electric Life regulators, Auto-Loc crank switches, remote/central locks and alarm system. All the parts look like good quality stuff.

I’m amazed that they fit at all, but I think the crank switches are going to work great with the A1 regulators. I was mostly concerned about the clearance between the crank switch and the regulator gear… as it turns out, by rotating the switch just right it ends up with about 3/16” clearance. I’ll make a plate and drill it to mount the switch directly to the regulator… then install the whole thing as a unit.

I still need to check clearances in the door, but so far it looks way too easy to install (time for concern!).. particularly when compared to Specialty or other options where you need to butcher the door. I'll need to get new window channel and seals, dig up the glass and clean a lot of parts so it will probably be awhile before I get these in… I’ll post more when I do.

Here are a few shots for now to show you what I mean. The thing I could never really determine from pictures on the A1 site was how far the gear would rotate when fully extended, so here it is with the switch in position:

Bob Moore · 03-11-2005, 12:11 PM

Great photos. Keep em coming. How long is the crank shaft and is it adjustable?

Thanks for gettin' it done - Bob

nathank · 03-11-2005, 12:15 PM

Lots of pics of the install please!!

Also, I am in the dark here, what is a "crank switch"?

zyggy72 · 03-11-2005, 03:22 PM

Will the A-1 electric window kit work with the one piece window glass conversion?

shifty · 03-11-2005, 04:08 PM

I was wondering the same as zyggy72....

**John Fabris** · 03-11-2005, 05:21 PM

I was told that the A-1 style pictured above would not work for one-piece windows when I bought kit. Something about the bigger heavier glass will cause those system to rock forward and back as you go up or down. BUT I have not seen that in person.

I brought a different type of powerwindows setup that are for heavier glass, pushes from the bottom, I also got the switches that you can mount the window crank handle on.
I have not installed any of this yet. Still need to paint my truck....

Also, I brought the rubber boots mentioned in this thread, and it cost me $30.00 at a local GM dealer.. Ouch! but it will lood good...

longnlow72 · 03-11-2005, 07:28 PM

30 for the rubber ones? if thats what they cost ill pay the 35 for the billet autoloc ones

71RestoRod · 03-13-2005, 01:06 AM

Made up a couple of plates today to mount my crank switches. First I cut out the shape I needed, then I drilled each end for the regulator mounting studs and the center hole for the crank handle shaft. I mounted the plate to the regulator, positioned the crank switch and scribed the corner of the switch for a reference. I used a template to transfer the position of the holes for the three mounting screws. Lastly, I copied a second plate for the other door.

One unexpected thing that I ran into is that the stock regulator bracket has about a 3/8” offset from top to bottom which keeps the window crank shaft perpendicular to the face of the door. The Electric-Life regulator mounts flush to the door, so with the switch mounted flush to the bracket, the crank handle shaft points down slightly. I corrected this by placing a few washers on the upper mounting screws between the bracket and the crank switch to kick it back up perpendicular to the face of the door. Everything fits really well now.

Bob,
The shafts on these crank switches are not adjustable. Measuring from the mounting surface to the end of the shaft, the Auto-Loc shaft measures slightly shorter than the stock regulator shaft (~ 1/8” to 1/4”), so it will be tight and I think they would likely be too short for a ’72 style door.

More pics…

Bob Moore · 03-13-2005, 01:44 AM

Let me see if I got this right? You mounted the crank switch on the back side of the new regulator? I guess this is how it must be because the regulator fits tight to the inner door skin. Do you think the crank switch could be mounted to the door on the cab side (not inside the door) - think of it like regulator/inner door skin/crank switch - and then hidden by the 72 door panel.

I'm just trying to get ideas. You may be able to answer. You may not even care - I don't knowLOL.

Thanks - Bob

shifty · 03-14-2005, 12:01 PM

*bump*

TugOwar · 03-14-2005, 01:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Edmond

Thanks for that link Shifty!!
Now this is a good pic...

Cya,
Edmond

Note: No hand models were used in this pic.

03-10-2005, 10:39 PM	#26
72402 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Cameron, Oklahoma Posts: 199	Thanks Edmond, those are the conduits that I use. __________________ 72 Cheyenne SWB Fleet/original 402, TH400, buckets & console 65 C10, 350TBI, 700R4 (work in progress)

03-11-2005, 04:46 AM	#27
71RestoRod Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Evergreen, CO Posts: 494	I think it'll work! Parts showed up today… Electric Life regulators, Auto-Loc crank switches, remote/central locks and alarm system. All the parts look like good quality stuff. I’m amazed that they fit at all, but I think the crank switches are going to work great with the A1 regulators. I was mostly concerned about the clearance between the crank switch and the regulator gear… as it turns out, by rotating the switch just right it ends up with about 3/16” clearance. I’ll make a plate and drill it to mount the switch directly to the regulator… then install the whole thing as a unit. I still need to check clearances in the door, but so far it looks way too easy to install (time for concern!).. particularly when compared to Specialty or other options where you need to butcher the door. I'll need to get new window channel and seals, dig up the glass and clean a lot of parts so it will probably be awhile before I get these in… I’ll post more when I do. Here are a few shots for now to show you what I mean. The thing I could never really determine from pictures on the A1 site was how far the gear would rotate when fully extended, so here it is with the switch in position: Attached Images Last edited by 71RestoRod; 03-11-2005 at 04:54 AM.

03-11-2005, 12:11 PM	#28
Bob Moore Registered User Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Tacoma WA Posts: 1,365	Great photos. Keep em coming. How long is the crank shaft and is it adjustable? Thanks for gettin' it done - Bob __________________ 67 C-20 LWB, tilt, speed alert, vac, 454, T400 67 C-10 SWB, factory air with more to follow

03-11-2005, 12:15 PM	#29
nathank resident geek Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Dusty West Texas Posts: 77	Lots of pics of the install please!! Also, I am in the dark here, what is a "crank switch"? __________________ 71 C-10 stepper 88 Moostang T-Top w/ lots of goodies

03-11-2005, 04:08 PM	#31
shifty Questionable Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Atlanta Posts: 13,376	I was wondering the same as zyggy72.... __________________ If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM.

03-11-2005, 03:22 PM	#30
zyggy72 Can't kick the addiction! Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Riverton, CT 06065 Posts: 402	Will the A-1 electric window kit work with the one piece window glass conversion?

03-11-2005, 05:21 PM	#32
John Fabris TOTY 2006 Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Magalia CA USA Posts: 2,270	I was told that the A-1 style pictured above would not work for one-piece windows when I bought kit. Something about the bigger heavier glass will cause those system to rock forward and back as you go up or down. BUT I have not seen that in person. I brought a different type of powerwindows setup that are for heavier glass, pushes from the bottom, I also got the switches that you can mount the window crank handle on. I have not installed any of this yet. Still need to paint my truck.... Also, I brought the rubber boots mentioned in this thread, and it cost me $30.00 at a local GM dealer.. Ouch! but it will lood good... __________________ John Fabris 67 C10 SWB Last edited by John Fabris; 03-11-2005 at 05:23 PM.

03-11-2005, 07:28 PM	#33
longnlow72 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: SW Washington Posts: 947	30 for the rubber ones? if thats what they cost ill pay the 35 for the billet autoloc ones __________________ 72 Chevy lwb, cowl hood, shaved antenna, shaved bedrails, blazer tank, sidemarker fill, 1pc windows, flowmaster 40's, alpine deck, infinity 6x9's, infinity 4"ers, 2 jl audio 10w0's, grant wheel, keyless entry and alarm, more waiting to be done...

03-13-2005, 01:06 AM	#34
71RestoRod Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Evergreen, CO Posts: 494	Made some mounting plates Made up a couple of plates today to mount my crank switches. First I cut out the shape I needed, then I drilled each end for the regulator mounting studs and the center hole for the crank handle shaft. I mounted the plate to the regulator, positioned the crank switch and scribed the corner of the switch for a reference. I used a template to transfer the position of the holes for the three mounting screws. Lastly, I copied a second plate for the other door. One unexpected thing that I ran into is that the stock regulator bracket has about a 3/8” offset from top to bottom which keeps the window crank shaft perpendicular to the face of the door. The Electric-Life regulator mounts flush to the door, so with the switch mounted flush to the bracket, the crank handle shaft points down slightly. I corrected this by placing a few washers on the upper mounting screws between the bracket and the crank switch to kick it back up perpendicular to the face of the door. Everything fits really well now. Bob, The shafts on these crank switches are not adjustable. Measuring from the mounting surface to the end of the shaft, the Auto-Loc shaft measures slightly shorter than the stock regulator shaft (~ 1/8” to 1/4”), so it will be tight and I think they would likely be too short for a ’72 style door. More pics… Attached Images

03-13-2005, 01:44 AM	#35
Bob Moore Registered User Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Tacoma WA Posts: 1,365	Let me see if I got this right? You mounted the crank switch on the back side of the new regulator? I guess this is how it must be because the regulator fits tight to the inner door skin. Do you think the crank switch could be mounted to the door on the cab side (not inside the door) - think of it like regulator/inner door skin/crank switch - and then hidden by the 72 door panel. I'm just trying to get ideas. You may be able to answer. You may not even care - I don't knowLOL. Thanks - Bob __________________ 67 C-20 LWB, tilt, speed alert, vac, 454, T400 67 C-10 SWB, factory air with more to follow

03-14-2005, 12:01 PM	#36
shifty Questionable Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Atlanta Posts: 13,376	bump __________________ If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM.



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