Shock Relocation

[VDOG]

Thanks I will install the bar and see what happens then.

[70c10]

I thought your trailing arm was twisted but it appears to be ok in that rear pic.

[BowTieOgre]

Mine dont look like that but I have an ECE trailing arm xmem...that have anything to do with it?

Did I put my shocks on upside down????

[Shock_Me]

VDOG,
The first thing I notice on your upper mount problem is the bolts are definitely longer than the bolts on PunkRock's truck. I didn't get a chance to look at our set-up last night, but I will tonight, and I'll post some pics.

Bowtieogre,
Yes, I think your shocks are upside down

Pete

[Robznob11]

the factory one is too long if your lowered and they sell one at cpp for 59.00 that is shorter, but it will eventually bend your pumpkin on your rear under heavy loads. thats why i went with the delux trac bar that is adjustable and also mounts from the frame to the trailing arm, alot better geomitry.

[Robznob11]

try flipping your shocks over like the pic above

[BigTruckDriver]

If the top of the shock is mounted in the right location then maybe, just maybe, the lower bracket is was not made to the correct angle? You know they did not bend it enough to get the proper angle.

[BigTruckDriver]

Originally Posted by BowTieOgre

Mine dont look like that but I have an ECE trailing arm xmem...that have anything to do with it?

Did I put my shocks on upside down????

Not really I have seen this done on some performance set ups. Its done to reduce weight on your working suspension. You would have to put a sock on it though to protect the shaft from damage from dirt and debris. On these trucks though its is normally the other way.

[VDOG]

Originally Posted by Robznob11

i went with the delux trac bar that is adjustable and also mounts from the frame to the trailing arm, alot better geomitry.

I have the new deluxe adjustable trac bar, just have not installed it yet. When doing these setups, there is no instructions on what should be done first. The instructions are on a part to part basis.

Took this picture to show the trac bar to a member here, its not mounted, but looking at the picture, I think I need to switch it around.

[Robznob11]

thats not the delux trac bar kit, thats the short one, the delux track bar kit goes from the frame to the trailing arm right behind the shock mount...

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by Robznob11

thats not the delux trac bar kit, thats the short one, the delux track bar kit goes from the frame to the trailing arm right behind the shock mount...

I think it's a CPP "deluxe" track bar kit, not ECE.

[VDOG]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

I think it's a CPP "deluxe" track bar kit, not ECE.

You are right, its the CPP trackbar.

[SCOTI]

The CPP 'Delux' bar also goes all the way to the pass side trailing arm.

[Robznob11]

easy to figure out 59.99= adjustable stock location replacement and is about 33" long give or take a little, delux = 109.00 and comes with new brackets and spacer for un affected trailing arm side and is longer than 33 although im not sure of the length, you can go to cpp web site and see the two...good luck and ps im sorry your stuck with that short one if your lowered more than 4 inches in the back you will bend the loop in the pumpkin eventually...

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Robznob11

...good luck and ps im sorry your stuck with that short one if your lowered more than 4 inches in the back you will bend the loop in the pumpkin eventually...

I used the CPP 'short' adjustable bar on my bagged 68 that was dropped w/bags & 1.5" blocks. I dropped this truck in 2000 & the bar & rear end cover are both still just fine.

Yes, they come close (close enough that there's evidence of paint being rubbed off on the cover)...... but there has not been any contact that has caused any notable damage.

[VDOG]

This is CPP's response to my shock questions and pictures. Does it make sense to you guys? Looking at other shocks, I think the outer washers should be bigger. What do you guys think?

Ok on the upper mount flip the bolt over so the head comes through the bottom and nuts at the top.On the lower if you space that shock out you can perfect that geometry.Try using an actual shock stud which spaces that shock away from the relocator and it will make this perfect.If you need any other help dont hesitate to ask.

[vfrdude]

I think it should fit with the hardware they gave you. If it was me, I would buy the ECE relocator kit. It's the one I used, and as the others have showed, there are no issues with the fit at all.

[VDOG]

Originally Posted by vfrdude

I think it should fit with the hardware they gave you. If it was me, I would buy the ECE relocator kit. It's the one I used, and as the others have showed, there are no issues with the fit at all.

I just might have to buy from ECE if this does not work. Not ready to spend 60 more dollars if I dont have too. Still have that rearend problem with the broken bolt. So I might have to buy a new one. Money is getting thin.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by VDOG

I just might have to buy from ECE if this does not work. Not ready to spend 60 more dollars if I dont have too. Still have that rearend problem with the broken bolt. So I might have to buy a new one. Money is getting thin.

Re-use your original brackets.... it's free. Swap the lower brackets from side to side. They will require some flattening to tighten flush w/the trailing arm (it's nothing a med hammer & heat or a BFH & effort can't accomplish).

You can trim the top factory brackets or use the ones you got w/your CPP kit. If you trim the stock ones, just relocate the shocks bolt hole higher up on the bracket & 'shave' off any material on the bracket that interferes w/the shock 'eye'.

[VDOG]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Re-use your original brackets.... it's free. Swap the lower brackets from side to side. They will require some flattening to tighten flush w/the trailing arm (it's nothing a med hammer & heat or a BFH & effort can't accomplish).

You can trim the top factory brackets or use the ones you got w/your CPP kit. If you trim the stock ones, just relocate the shocks bolt hole higher up on the bracket & 'shave' off any material on the bracket that interferes w/the shock 'eye'.

Im really going to need a picture of what your saying.

[71tahoe]

I have both ECE and CPP shock relocater kits. ECE for my truck and CPP for my son's. The upper and lower brackets appear to be exactly alike. I'll check Friday when I can put them side by side. I think my son even has the ECE uppers and CPP lowers on the truck he is building and I haven't seen any problems. Pictures Friday if I can post them.

[VDOG]

Originally Posted by 71tahoe

I have both ECE and CPP shock relocater kits. ECE for my truck and CPP for my son's. The upper and lower brackets appear to be exactly alike. I'll check Friday when I can put them side by side. I think my son even has the ECE uppers and CPP lowers on the truck he is building and I haven't seen any problems. Pictures Friday if I can post them.

Thanks I look forward to seeing them. Something else I notice about the CPP shocks, the metal tube that goes into the shock hole, once inserted, the bolt will not fit. They give you a few different sizes. The ones that go into the bottom shock hole fits with a bolt, not the top.

[71tahoe]

OK, I was only half right (faulty memory). ECE totally on the truck. Shock studs, no bolts/spacers.

Differences:

Not even close!

I'm impressed you actually got the shock attached to the CPP kit. I tried and failed, and failed and ... gave up. I got it parallel at about 2 1/4". I don't think a spacer that long is an option (someone else chime in on that one). The only other thing I can think of besides buying ECE and praying you can get your money back from CPP (Looks like I'm in the same boat) is drill 2 more holes 2" closer to the frame rail but that looks WAY too close to the spring/bag. Shock on CPP (wasn't worth a picture of lower):


You might get it a little better at 1 1/2" and still have clearance but I'd be afraid to drive it with bags. Try putting a shock stud in the lower bracket and then see where/if the shock clears and the upper mount holes hit the flanges on the support. Measure, cycle suspension, measure, cycle, measure and the you'll still probably have to call ECE.

Cliff

[VDOG]

Originally Posted by 71tahoe

OK, I was only half right (faulty memory). ECE totally on the truck. Shock studs, no bolts/spacers.
Cliff

I think the shock spacers on first picture is what I need at the bottom of the shock. CPP shocks have very small washers so there is nothing to stop the shock bushing from moving.

[71tahoe]

You may need to have assemble one with a 2 1/2" shoulder or at that angle the bigger washer may hit the shock before it gets tight. A 1/2"x5" grade 8 bolt through a 2 1/2" long spacer might work but I wouldn't guarantee it would last very long. No cut-off pipe. You would want the hole just big enough for the bolt to go through and 90deg ends. This is not my recommendation but just some thoughts. Maybe it will spark an idea from someone else.

Also you will probably need an insert for the lower eye of the shock to give the washer a shoulder to tighten against.