ol Curt Suffers Setback...I think

[ol Curt]

Originally Posted by ruffrida2005

You know when I was in Iraq the first time in 03, My motor sergeant used to always tell us if we got pissed off at the truck we were working on to just walk away and go talk to another truck or if you could find a tree. You'll get it done we all have problems with our trucks but once they are done it's well worth the pain.

I have 722 trees on the campus I oversee. I'll go talk to them all tomorrow!

I measured from the top and the two spots mentioned were within a half inch of each other. I measured from the spot where the door check fastens down and found there to be a 1-1/2" difference between the two sides. I definitely have to consider some more reference points before doing any work

[Captainfab]

Yes you can MIG weld stainless with mild steel wire. It doesn't produce as good a quality weld as stainless wire, but of course in this situation that isn't a big issue. It sounds to me in this case that the stainless bolt has galled in the mild steel nut. It is worth a try to weld a nut onto the remaining bolt to try and remove it though.....you never know.

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

As far as welding to stainless with a mig, I don't think it will work. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

[jonzcustomshop]

Originally Posted by ol Curt

I measured from the top and the two spots mentioned were within a half inch of each other.

that is proably the issue.
the 2 measurements should be exactly the same.
on mine one side was 1/8 shorter than the other, but both spots on that side were 50 7/8.

[fleetsidelarry]

Originally Posted by ol Curt

It moved a little but not enough to make much difference. I thought I might go and adjust the other side a bit so it would close good. One of the new stainless bolts didn't feel quite right. I went to loosen it and it was snug. One more turn and it snapped it off in the A Pillar.

It won't be much longer and this thing will be sold off like many of the others on here. The only difference is this one is in pieces.

I may have to walk away for a few weeks!

Hang in there, talk to the trees, we've ALL been there. I work with stainless hardware a lot, being in the marine repair business, stainless is notorious for galling (esp. if an air tool is used). I've found that a COLBALT bit works great on stainless, high speed steel and nitride-coated are basically worthless. Center punch it, try a cobalt bit and an EZ-out. Also, FWIW, I'm trying to make it a habit to run a tap through critical threaded parts, even when using new fasteners, just to clean em up.

[ol Curt]

Originally Posted by fleetsidelarry

Hang in there, talk to the trees, we've ALL been there. I work with stainless hardware a lot, being in the marine repair business, stainless is notorious for galling (esp. if an air tool is used). I've found that a COLBALT bit works great on stainless, high speed steel and nitride-coated are basically worthless. Also, FWIW, I've gotten into the habit of running a tap through critical threaded parts, even when using new fasteners, just to clean em up.

I think that may be the part that ticked me off the most. I did run a tap through all of them.

[jonzcustomshop]

I had a hell of a time with the door bolts on my 61, a few were galled, and cross threaded from the factory I assume... they are a real fine thread, and it seemed whenever I started a bolt it would try to cross.
I ended up pulling bolts off of 2 different trucks before I found some that ran in and out real nice.

I also had to grind a little of the cab away around the bolt hole to get the caged nut to adjust down far enough to get the hinge to line up.

the whole process was real challenging, and I felt like giving up a # of times

[MacAttack]

Originally Posted by ruffrida2005

You'll get it done we all have problems with our trucks but once they are done it's well worth the pain.

Outstanding! That's what this site's all about!

[ruffrida2005]

I'm just happy I've been quoted on something. HAHA

hang in there Bob.

[1964C10]

Hang in there Bob! and welcome to the "Broke-a-bolt" club lol. Membership is free but careful it's like Hotel California, you can check in but you can never leave hahaha

[ol Curt]

Tried to weld a nut on...wouldn't hold. Tried to drill hole and use easy out...ended up knocking the whole plate out the back. After taking some of the rocker apart on that side was able to fish out the plate. Obviously, it must sit in some kind of tray and it was rusted.

I'm trying to decide whether to take it to a machine shop and just have them make a piece.....or sell all the parts and pieces!

If I have the part made, then I have to figure how to fish it back up into place and get it to stay put....oh brother!

[ruffrida2005]

If you have to you can always cut the peice off the piller and weld a nut. then weld the peice back on.

[ol Curt]

That.....Is a DEAL! I suddenly feel a little rejuvenated. There are no bone yards around here.

I bought a big ol bottle of anti seize yesterday, and a big ol bottle of advil! I am not sure t wasn't just a bit cross threaded. All five other bolts turned like they were in butter.It had only been in ther efor a day.Either way, I don't thinkI will be using them for the fine thread parts.

[jason65]

Nice hook up.

[MacAttack]

Originally Posted by MailManX2

It'll take me a couple of days to get it cut out and boxed up. Let me know..

It doesn't get any better than that!

[ol Curt]

Originally Posted by jason65

Nice hook up.

You got that right...especially after I snapped an easy out off in the bolt this morning!

[ruffrida2005]

yeah that probably isn't that good Bob.

[ol Curt]

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

from these marks you should have 51 inches in both spots.
I noticed that the measurement was about 1/8th of an inch off on the passenger side of my 61 (50 7/8), after much inspecting and remeasuring , the measurement was off by the same amount in both spots on that side, I acertained that the rocker was welded on a little crooked from the factory

Ok, I took the door off tonight...I'm starting to feel like a power lifter again!

I want to make sure I have this absolutely right. From the BOTTOM edge of the drip rail to the edge of the rocker where the door meets it is 51" front and back. Correct? It appears I am at 50-5/8" on the back and 51-1/2" on the front.
Roughly a 1/2" shift front and back. That would seem to make a big difference.

[ruffrida2005]

Measure a million times, Weld once. haha Hang in there. Atleast you get to work on your truck. Mines 4 hours away.

[ol Curt]

Originally Posted by ruffrida2005

Measure a million times, Weld once. haha Hang in there. Atleast you get to work on your truck. Mines 4 hours away.

Yeah, I just want to double check the height before I start the grinding and begin resetting.

[Roadhammer]

I like a week away from starting on my "repop" rocker installs from LMC and im scared to death by this thread..I think ill go out and buy a sixpack of measuring tapes that might make me feel bteer. LOL

Jory

[ol Curt]

Mine are good to go now...at least i think. Will be putting door on this week. One of the things I didn't do, because I thought it would limit my working room is to brace the cab first. I also rented a video set and that guy didn't brace. Alan has some good info in his threads for this work(he definitely braced). I don't know if I have ever seen anybody as good as him on body work. I would follow everything he did!

[ol Curt]

Hey,

Wanted to let everyone know Mailman hooked me up with part of a pillar so I can fix my drivers door hinge pillar. Not only did he cut it out and send it, he blasted it....heck, ol curt kinda shivered when I was holding a blasted piece up to him. He hadn't ever seen one of those before!!

I was busy working on getting it all lined up before cutting it out tonight and didn't take any pics, but will tomorrow.

Thanks again Ken!!