55-59 Rear Fuel Tank

[Dan in Pasadena]

Just checked prices. That Tanks Inc. Mustang/Universal is only $215 plus $35 for a sending unit.

No Limit's tanks are $479 for a 17 gallon and $499 for a 21 gallon. Then you still have to buy the sending unit. Basically twice the price. To me, the cheaper one is a no brainer.

Question, if I were to buy a fuel injection tank I assume it would work fine with a conventional mechanical fuel pump, carbureted engine? I ask because some day in the far off future I might put a 5.3 LS engine in my truck.

[OrrieG]

Check Yogis, they had the best price for the 18 gallon aluminum tank I put in.

[57chevyman]

universal Mustang tank kit from Tanks Inc. came with everything including sending unit thats compatable with the stock fuel gauge.

[OrrieG]

I lied, looked it up and I got my tank and sender from Performance On Line for $295 shipped.

[57chevyman]

My kit was $337 shipped . From what I've been told , my universal mustang tank is an improved version of the original , with the feed line on the top of the tank , not on the bottom like a stock 1960s mustang tank

[Dan in Pasadena]

Frank, How are you handling the conflict between that neck and the rear cross member? Or do they not conflict? In the photos it looks like you'll have to C the top of the cross member. If you have any photos of how you did it, can you please post them or at least describe how you did it?

Also, you mounted the tank to the bottom flange of the frame rails, not the top flange. Did you do that to make it easier to remove later if needed? Also, why the triangulated 1" tubing? What was the need for that? Sorry to ask so many questions.

[57chevyman]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Frank, How are you handling the conflict between that neck and the rear cross member? Or do they not conflict? In the photos it looks like you'll have to C the top of the cross member. If you have any photos of how you did it, can you please post them or at least describe how you did it?

Also, you mounted the tank to the bottom flange of the frame rails, not the top flange. Did you do that to make it easier to remove later if needed? Also, why the triangulated 1" tubing? What was the need for that? Sorry to ask so many questions.

Hey Danny boy , I plan to have a flip down license plate. I'm going to drill a hole in the center of the cross sill large enough to install a 1965-66 mustang filler neck . I have to add a bracket to the bottom edge of the cross sill which will serve two purposes - provide a surface to mount the flip down license plate bracket , and also strengthen the middle of the sill.
Here's a pic of the filler neck that has a flange built into it.
I mounted the tank on the bottom rail of the frame because I needed the tank there for the filler neck to position correctly. The tank is only 7" deep so it doesn't hang down low.
The triangulated 1" steel is to replace the rear crossmember I took out.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Nosing around online and found THIS:
http://www.yogisinc.com/index.cfm/pa...d/prd15884.htm

If I'd known this existed before I wouldn't have to consider matching up sending units and fuel gauges. I figure some other guy will need to know about this product sooner or later.

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Nosing around online and found THIS:
http://www.yogisinc.com/index.cfm/pa...d/prd15884.htm

If I'd known this existed before I wouldn't have to consider matching up sending units and fuel gauges. I figure some other guy will need to know about this product sooner or later.

For $150 I'd take the time to get the sender matched to the gauge...

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks Frank!
So if I had this tank and mounted it to the top frame flange Id have to use a bed fill? The bent fill tube you used would come out too high to clear the bed floor?

Orrie,

Yeah I agree but back when I had my AD - that's Art Deco, a '46 it had a mustang tank already installed in it and when I had it rewired I had to go with after market gauges because the factory garage didn't work...but even if it had it would have worked with the Ford sender. This part would have saved me.

[57chevyman]

[QUOTE=Dan in Pasadena;7092015]Thanks Frank!
So if I had this tank and mounted it to the top frame flange Id have to use a bed fill? The bent fill tube you used would come out too high to clear the bed floor?

QUOTE]

yes, It would have to be a bed fill if the tank was mounted on the top of the frame.

when i make more progress ill post pictures :-)

[tmoble]

you can turn a 30 watt sender into a 90 watt with a 2 watt 60 Ohm resistor inline in the wire. You might be able to do it the other way around by mounting the resistor inline with the power feed wire. I actually haven't tried it that way personally but I certainly would if I needed to.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Ok, thanks!

[57chevyman]

Even with it on the bottom of the frame , it doesn't hang lower than the bumper

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by 57chevyman

Even with it on the bottom of the frame , it doesn't hang lower than the bumper

Good to know. I suppose if it was painted or powder coated black it's be nearly invisible!

[1-ton of fun]

well done sir. using the old filler neck gives it an original look even though it wasn't there before

[idbeast]

performance on line 26 gal. fuel injection tank
adult image
upload pic

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by idbeast

performance on line 26 gal. fuel injection tank

idbeast: if your going to stay on leaf springs, that c-notch for your filler neck will eventually break your frame
i'd start by putting back some of the meat that you cut out on the frame, no need for a 4'' c-notch
then i'd add some more structure over the filler neck to help keep the frame from flexing
i have the same no-limit tank in my 58 truk, this is how i handled the filler neck c-notch

[idbeast]

_Ogre thank you for the heads up on this!

[brownsville]

s-10 blazer gas tank. cheap, readily available, and parts are easy to find and mine fits under my factory bed floor with the nozzle just barely below the floor

[_Ogre]

if you were on air bags it wouldn't matter, leaf springs add a lot of load behind the c-notch
the x-member you removed to make room for the tank also needs to be replaced behind the tank
i use 4'' channel iron for a x-member behind the tank

[Oldtruckwelder]

GREAT THREAD !!
Thanks , lots of good information shared.
Reading all of this still trying to figure which way to go.
Side fill, top fill , flip down license plate...
Thanks again
JT From SC

[Oldtruckwelder]

GREAT THREAD !!
Thanks , lots of good information shared.
Reading all of this still trying to figure which way to go.
Side fill, top fill , flip down license plate...
Thanks again
JT From SC

[idbeast]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

if you were on air bags it wouldn't matter, leaf springs add a lot of load behind the c-notch
the x-member you removed to make room for the tank also needs to be replaced behind the tank
i use 4'' channel iron for a x-member behind the tank

I'm going to 4 link it and I didn't get the X-member back in it yet! But thanks for the heads up again as I understand you are looking out for me and my build!

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by idbeast

I'm going to 4 link it and I didn't get the X-member back in it yet! But thanks for the heads up again as I understand you are looking out for me and my build!

make sure you bolt the tank from underneath to the bottom flange
don't slide the tank into the frame and bolt it up
this will help if you need to drop the tank with the completed bed on your truck

i've had to drop my tank a few times for fuel line failure in the tank
once on a road trip