1964 C10 Survivor

[LostMy65]

Scrolling I just stopped and took a double take.
For some reason I instantly notice if a pic looks northwestern.

[Corts60]

Yeah that looks like Columbia Park in NoPo. I miss the Mockcrest Tavern....

[caseyjones]

Originally Posted by Corts60

Yeah that looks like Columbia Park in NoPo. I miss the Mockcrest Tavern....

Bingo!

[LostMy65]

Nice job, casey.
Are you keeping the step bumper?

[LostMy65]

It's funny how tastes are different and they even change over time. Before I would have preferred a shortbed, now I'm liking it as a longbed.

[caseyjones]

Rear cuts were made and tacked back together and then I ran out of wire.



I did cut away some of the structure behind the tail light pocket to prepare for the hidden filler. The gas door mechanism I had on hand was way too big to adapt so I've put that idea on the shelf for now.

[LostMy65]

Have you decided which method you're going to us for shortening the frame?
Here's the method I would use:
https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=123624
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And i would use these for extra measure:
https://www.brotherstrucks.com/63-72...tinfo/FRK6372/

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[Captainfab]

I still have some of these for reinforcement when shortening the frame.

http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=766739

[caseyjones]

I have the CPP plates already. I plan to make the cut under the cab and have a mobile welder come to finish it up since my little 110 machine isn’t gonna cut it. I sent the bearing retainer out to be cut down to fit my bellhousing yesterday. Once that is back, I’ll install the trans, measure for the driveshaft and start cutting...

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by caseyjones

I have the CPP plates already. I plan to make the cut under the cab and have a mobile welder come to finish it up since my little 110 machine isn’t gonna cut it. I sent the bearing retainer out to be cut down to fit my bellhousing yesterday. Once that is back, I’ll install the trans, measure for the driveshaft and start cutting...

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I'll be following your progress.

[caseyjones]

It's all stitched back together. I've borrowed some extra jack stands from my neighbor so I'm ready to go as soon as my parts get here. I have a youtube playlist of truck-shortening videos on heavy rotation while I wait...

[Mack B]

Originally Posted by caseyjones

It's all stitched back together. I've borrowed some extra jack stands from my neighbor so I'm ready to go as soon as my parts get here. I have a youtube playlist of truck-shortening videos on heavy rotation while I wait...

Great job, sir! I recently shortened my long bed and wish I waited till I saw your thread. I made my cuts beyond the stake pockets and condemned myself to having to Paint my whole bedsides. Your method would have been better suited for my plans.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by Mack B

Great job, sir! I recently shortened my long bed and wish I waited till I saw your thread. I made my cuts beyond the stake pockets and condemned myself to having to Paint my whole bedsides. Your method would have been better suited for my plans.

Yeah, I really like how he can keep the paint original with only a little touching up.

[88Stanger]

Damn Fine Work sir!!
I cheated when i did my "69 and bought new sides, mine were shot, expecially after i tried to shorten them.

[SkinnyG]

I've straightened frames with judicious use of heat, or by strategic placement of weld beads.

My take on it is: "It's messed up. I can make it less messed up."

[caseyjones]

It is tempting to try to fix this myself but in this case I'm going to defer to the guys with experience and equipment

[SkinnyG]

Did you weld the Brother's kit in?

If you didn't, you could try supporting the frame at the cut/splice, loosening all the through bolts, let gravity do its thing, and re-tighten all the bolts.

[caseyjones]

Originally Posted by SkinnyG

Did you weld the Brother's kit in?

If you didn't, you could try supporting the frame at the cut/splice, loosening all the through bolts, let gravity do its thing, and re-tighten all the bolts.

I didn't technically buy the Brother's Kit...I used the CPP frame stiffening brackets and followed the Brother's process. I haven't welded it in yet, so after I read your question I tried your suggestion and nothing moved. Those C-channel stiffeners are beefy and a tight fit in the frame. I checked the frame rails with a level as a straightedge and both sides are identically straight.

I did notice the same problem with the corner being high before I ever cut the frame. I think it's just more noticeable now that the end of the bed is 20" closer to the cab. I'm pretty confident its a twist in the frame and that the frame shop can straighten it out. The truck also has a pretty good driver's side lean, maybe the frame work will help with that too.

[Sevens]

Nice truck and nice work!

[caseyjones]

So I have to admit that I was wrong and SkinnyG's suggestion was right. I decided to try it again but go further and it straightened out. I lined up the mobile welder - seems like he did a good job, and the truck is pretty dang straight now. I'm still in the middle of the trans swap and I'll have a more detailed post on that when I'm done...but I'm happy the truck is solid and straight again!

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by caseyjones

So I have to admit that I was wrong and SkinnyG's suggestion was right. I decided to try it again but go further and it straightened out. I lined up the mobile welder - seems like he did a good job, and the truck is pretty dang straight now. I'm still in the middle of the trans swap and I'll have a more detailed post on that when I'm done...but I'm happy the truck is solid and straight again!

Are you saying you should have used the brothers kit instead of the cpp c-channel stiffners?
I was impressed with how heavy of gauge cpp's were, and they are a really nice tight fit. So tight I would think they would be almost impossible to get back out even before welding.

[caseyjones]

Nope-I’m saying that the CPP channels were fine, but that there was enough clearance in the fit of everything at the joint that some adjustments were needed. I basically recreated the Brothers kit components except for the template. If I had done the brothers kit I imagine I would have run into the same issue.

If you aren’t taking the truck down to a bare frame and building a fixture, I would recommend welding the frame back together only after putting the bed back on so that the body line alignment can be checked.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by caseyjones

Nope-I’m saying that the CPP channels were fine, but that there was enough clearance in the fit of everything at the joint that some adjustments were needed. I basically recreated the Brothers kit components except for the template. If I had done the brothers kit I imagine I would have run into the same issue.

If you aren’t taking the truck down to a bare frame and building a fixture, I would recommend welding the frame back together only after putting the bed back on so that the body line alignment can be checked.

Good to know. I was thinking because of how tight a fit it was, and the length, that it would hold the frame straight to where it belongs. So yeah, maybe put the bed and cab back on, straighten everything up, and tack it.
Thanks for the heads up.

[caseyjones]

Things have escalated a bit in the truck...I decided to pull the engine out now to reseal it while I have the trans out too. I cannot believe the amount of dirt and grease caked in the engine and the front of the frame. I’ve spent all day with scrapers and a scrub brush to try to clean it up. The balancer was completely packed full of gunk!
My flywheel is glazed over, so I got a new NAPA clutch and will get the flywheel resurfaced this week. I’ll need to borrow a puller to get the balancer off too. This engine better not leak after all of this or I’m ripping it out and buying a crate motor with a one-piece rear main seal!

[SkinnyG]

Yay!