Rear sway bar installed

[betonj97]

Hello everyone....!!
I purchased my rear sway bar from CPP about a year ago and it also required drilling, but it works freaken great, the problem I am having now is it feels as if it is keeping the front of the truck down so anytime I go over a big hump on the road I end up bottoming out when coming down from the hump. I ran the nitro shocks and lowering springs cpp has to offer as well but I don't know if thats one of the problems. I have 265/50/16 in the rear and 245/50/16 in the front. So part of the rake might be an issue as well. Not really sure......all in all the truck corners as if it is on rails!
Any input would be appreciated. Thanks

[70c10]

I would find a spot where your truck always bottoms out and take note of the speed you are driving. Take the bar off the rear and go over the same spot to make sure that's what's happening.

[ChevyDude]

Yes...I will go out and shot a few pics and post them today...gotta get a few things done first...like something called w o r k...LOL!

Originally Posted by powell72

BTW, do you have a pic you can post showing where your bar is compared to the rearend?

[ChevyDude]

Yes...I will go out and shoot a few pics and post them today...gotta get a few things done first...like something called w o r k...LOL!

Originally Posted by powell72

BTW, do you have a pic you can post showing where your bar is compared to the rearend?

[bama51]

I was looking at the Hellwig model listed above on Summitracing.com and they only list it as being compatible with trucks. Can anyone see a reason why it wouldn't also be compatible with a 2wd blazer?

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by bama51

I was looking at the Hellwig model listed above on Summitracing.com and they only list it as being compatible with trucks. Can anyone see a reason why it wouldn't also be compatible with a 2wd blazer?

No reason it shouldn't work on trailing arm blazers and burbs.

To answer one of the earlier questions; You don't want a stiffer rear bar than your front bar. 99% of applications should have a looser rear bar than front. Even then if the rear bar is too stiff it can cause oversteer. I would only go with the 1-1/8" rear bar if you have a 1.1/4" front bar with good new and/or poly bushings. Even then I think it might be a little much in a truck with a light rear. I'm going with the 1-1/8" rear bar for two reasons:

1. I have a 1.25" front bar with all ES poly bushings.
2. I'm running a more rear weighted and higher CG Burb/Tahoe.

BTW, I just pulled my Camaro rear bar for the sole reason that it became the travel limiter in the rear after I reconfigured my shocks. It worked extremely well for handling improvement and I would definately recommend it as an alternative to anyone with static suspension and the need for space (such as exhaust constraints, etc.)

I can't say if one offers better performance than the other (I'll know soon), but it is another option. If you're bagged or planning on it, I'd say the Hellwig style rear bars are the way to go.

[PICKMUP]

Torsional strength is probably more important than size on sway bars. How much return force does it exert? Since the bars are two different steels made by two different companies, who knows? I'll guess the original GM is much better steel, probably forged.
One of the Adco reps told us that is why they make their bars bigger...softer steel that is easier for them to bend/form. Again, who knows, sounds good.

[betonj97]

Sounds like the plan......the wet weather hasn't motivated me to get out but I will have to get back and let you know the results of what it does when removing it.
Thanks

[c10crazy]

I just called Early Classic Enterprises a few minutes ago since they seem to be the preferred suspension authority around here. The guy told me they don't sell rear bars because they have an adverse affect on the ride (rear inside tire can lift in hard turns). He highly recommended front sway bars but was against using a rear sway bar UNLESS you were using a heavy camper which might tend to cause body roll. He says on an unloaded truck just go with a front bar!. Seemed very knowledgable and honest. I guess I'll use that money towards something else

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by c10crazy

The guy told me they don't sell rear bars because they have an adverse affect on the ride (rear inside tire can lift in hard turns). He highly recommended front sway bars but was against using a rear sway bar UNLESS you were using a heavy camper which might tend to cause body roll.

If that were the case why do the OE's put them on their HiPo trucks such as the Ram SRT10? What about the Craftsman Truck Series trucks running trailing arms and rear swaybars?

It's all about setting it up properly. Too much rear sway bar is never a good thing, but the right amount is a great improvement IMO.

[ChevyDude]

Lil' Red is TIGHT in the turns.

[bryanw1968]

Originally Posted by powell72

Thanks, and trust me Alex, I didn't take it that way at all. In fact, if I had a bigger front bar I would have went with the same one you have. I think your's is nicer!

BTW, do you have a pic you can post showing where your bar is compared to the rearend?

From what I know you want to have a bigger front sway bar on a rear wheel drive car and visa versa. I installed a front and rear on the '68 and they both made a huge difference. Obviously the front made more of a difference than the back but the back was definitely worth it too. At the time of the back sway bar install my exhaust was in the way so I didn't get the perfect 90 degree angle. It points more up probably more like a 60 degree angle. I may or may not try to fix it now that the exhaust is no longer an issue.