No Limit Wide-Ride C10 IFS 63-87

[Wasted Income]

Well I'm slowly working on the install. Everything appears to be high quality. I did have to take my plasma and die grinder to the opening for the LCA in crossmember a bit to allow the suspension to move through it's full travel. Also, I am waiting on a couple of parts that were missing from the kit that Rob shipped out after the fact.

I will report back my experience after it's all up and running.

[68steppsidee]

thanks man sounds good, i def like the product and rob knows what hes doing its just a big investment to me and i dont wanna be hacking up something that i just bought

[robnolimit]

Here are the upper and lower u-joints on a Wide-Ride install on a 70 C10. U-joints are from Flaming River. We used the OE floor mount in this instal, with the factory rubber boot.

[robnolimit]

An overall shot shows the angles, the top is 28*, and the lower is 15*. A slight notch, approx 1/4" deep, is needed in the frame rail top to help with steering shaft clearance. In other installs, I moved the floor mount position for the column down 1/2", and over (toward the motor) 3/8" from the stock location. This change helps the column to fit the seat better, and adds to steering clearance. We use 30" columns on C10's here. This is a IDIDIT column. I like to use the universal type, not the 'direct fit' columns. If you want a column shift, still use a 30" column. Try a Kugal shift linkage kit for the link to the trans.

[68steppsidee]

any news

[kwin]

I've been trying to get in touch with you regarding using your kit on my 1991 Suburban. I'm doing a turbo 6.0 swap and want to make a big change in handling.
Your receptionist has said that you don't recomend this kit for my application and I was wondering why?
I have left me name and numner but no one has called me back.
Can you tell me why I should not use your kit?

Keith

[higXtech]

Originally Posted by kwin

I've been trying to get in touch with you regarding using your kit on my 1991 Suburban. I'm doing a turbo 6.0 swap and want to make a big change in handling.
Your receptionist has said that you don't recomend this kit for my application and I was wondering why?
I have left me name and numner but no one has called me back.
Can you tell me why I should not use your kit?

Keith

hey keith - you may have to wait for SEMA to wrap up and then give it a couple days for the backlog to clear out. This is like a holy-week for many of our trusted vendors.

[kwin]

Originally Posted by higXtech

hey keith - you may have to wait for SEMA to wrap up and then give it a couple days for the backlog to clear out. This is like a holy-week for many of our trusted vendors.

Lol Sema 2013,2014? I give up, I'll find another direction they clearly don't want my business.

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by kwin

Lol Sema 2013,2014? I give up, I'll find another direction they clearly don't want my business.

Well, what do you need?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

Well, what do you need?

I've been trying to get in touch with you regarding using your kit on my 1991 Suburban. I'm doing a turbo 6.0 swap and want to make a big change in handling.
Your receptionist has said that you don't recomend this kit for my application and I was wondering why?
I have left me name and numner but no one has called me back.
Can you tell me why I should not use your kit?

Keith

Post #30 above.

[Wasted Income]

Got mine 90% finished up.


In my experience it hasn't been a 100% bolt in deal. Trim some stuff here, cut some stuff there, file these so they fit. I am hoping the steering doesn't end up being a headache, since I was planning to use a stock tilt column.

Gotta say though, if it works half as good as it looks, the tweaks required during installation will be worth it.

[fatgump]

[QUOTE=Wasted Income;5679081]Got mine 90% finished up.


In my experience it hasn't been a 100% bolt in deal. Trim some stuff here, cut some stuff there, file these so they fit. I am hoping the steering doesn't end up being a headache, since I was planning to use a stock tilt column.

Gotta say though, if it works half as good as it looks, the tweaks required during installation will be worth it.[/QUOTE


The stock column will not work. You can see in the photos my new CPP column with the three u-joints did not work. I went with a ididit 30" column and flaming river u-joints that I picked up from Scotts, thanks Justin. You are also going to have to mod your trans cross member, shorten your drive shaft, mod your motor mounts and adjust your pinion angle ( with a gen 1 SBC). If you have a low hump cab it will be a tight fit. I will let you know how it performs after the Goodguys show, autocross in Arizona.

[68steppsidee]

what if your running a muncie 4 speed... is it gonna afect the z bar and clutch linkage. also what has to be done to the trans crossmember?

[fatgump]

Originally Posted by 68steppsidee

what if your running a muncie 4 speed... is it gonna afect the z bar and clutch linkage. also what has to be done to the trans crossmember?

I have a th400 and had to move the trans crossmember back and raise it.

[robnolimit]

Gump, you project is looking great. How much did the trans go back, and up? And, was the motor in the 'forward' mounts before? How much clearance from pan to crossmember? And how about the rack?

[raydzyn72]

how you guys liking the no limit kit? im about to get a frontend kit just up in the air on what to go with. porterbuilt, no limit? wanting a good driving set up on 20"s not tucked

[robnolimit]

We have been installing our IFS and rear rail kitson a 68. This is a nice, clean truck, and we are using the kits, right out of the box. This makes it the same type of install as can be done in a home shop. For a kicker, we decided NOT to pull the motor and trans, which makes the install a little different, but we had a lot of questions about this, so we're doing it. All of the build is in the project build section, the No Limit BCC build.

[robnolimit]

Start of the rear rail install

[Wasted Income]

Hey Rob, can you provide the suggested alignment specs for the WideRide on a street driven truck? I'm getting very close to wrapping up my project and getting it aligned.

[higXtech]

Originally Posted by Wasted Income

Hey Rob, can you provide the suggested alignment specs for the WideRide on a street driven truck? I'm getting very close to wrapping up my project and getting it aligned.

dont know if this helps but from the wideride website:

We recommend 1/2 Neg Camber, 3 to 3 1/2" caster and about 1/8" Toe-in

[Custom 68]

Originally Posted by higXtech

dont know if this helps but from the wideride website:

It will be interesting to see what is recommended, as I have continued to read I would assume about twice that on Caster. One statement on here also recommended toe OUT rather than in. I don't know.

[Wasted Income]

Helloooooooooooooooooo??

This would be good info for anybody who purchases this suspension...since this info was missing from the "instructions".

[robnolimit]

Oooops. sorry sorry sorry. Spring is alway so hectic. Yes, the web site is our base set up. I would prefere 5 or 6 degrees of caster, for a better feel, and as you question, about 1/16" to 1/8" toe out. Toe out can quicken up the turn in, it can also make the truck quicker to react. - not for lazt drivers or texyers. this can put you in the next lane in a hurry. It can also increase mid-corner speeds 5+ mph. thanks for the helpp guys.

[Wasted Income]

Thank you Rob.

Hoping to have my junk roadworthy in a week or two....can't wait to try out the wideride.

[fatgump]

You will be pleased with the way it handles. My truck did good at the Scottsdale Good Guys Autocross in Nov. The driver needs some work.