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Old 01-09-2003, 07:29 PM   #26
crazy longhorn
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I would think a drop spring would mess with angles more than a block,as the arms set down the pinion will tend to roll nose down,& need a shim. You should see the shaft on my 69.....the back of the rear shaft angle upward to the rear diff! the sum of the 2 angle equal a straightline (trans & diff are phased properly). I have had the u joints in for 3 or 4 yrs, without problem& the shaft spins smooth to 6500 rpms.....thats about topped on 4.10 coggs....crazyL
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Old 01-09-2003, 10:03 PM   #27
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mine are 2.5'' made em out of 2'' ID square tubing, the reese hitch stuff. and went down to the spring shop and had em make longer bolts for $14.
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Old 01-09-2003, 10:39 PM   #28
alta-aj
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So now we've got the rear dropped, what about the front?

I'm thinking of dropping my 2wd Jimmy using blocks in the back and for the front I was going to cut one complete coil off the springs rather than use drop spindles. The reason is to avoid my buddy's experience. He has a lowered 68 swb with drop spindles, which of course, drop the lower control arms. He's currently replacing the control arms cuz the spring pockets got bashed crossing an uneven railroad track. Any comments about the cut coil plan?

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Old 01-09-2003, 10:56 PM   #29
NSANE68!!!
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That's not why your buddy JACKED up is control arm.

Yes spindles move up the center of the rim up but the reason he destroyed his lower control arm is because he didn't pay attention to his SCRUB LINE.

This kinda thing happens all the time when you don't fully understand the concept of lowering.

CUT COILS AAAAAHHHHHH NO!!! But it's your ride do what ya feel is right.
I feel if ya wanna do it DO IT RIGHT the first time. You can get a pair of drop springs from a number of vendors.
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Old 01-09-2003, 11:16 PM   #30
alta-aj
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Question

Thanks for the reply NSANE 68!!!

Tell me more. What do you mean about paying attention to the scrub line? What is it in respect to and how do you have control over it?

And secondly, whats the difference between shortening the springs compared with buying shorter ones? It's not that the coils would we cut or rewelded or cut on the oblique. They would be cut virtically one coil lower than they current are.
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Old 01-09-2003, 11:35 PM   #31
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SCRUB LINE, imagine you got 4 flats at once, then look under your truck and see what all would drag. In some states you can get multiple violations for scrub line laws.
I would guess your buddy put on 2.5" drop spindles and was runnin 15" rims with a small side wall tire. That would make for a very low scrub line. If he had 17" rims the scrub line would be 2" higher. Does that make sense? If I am wrong then I would say STAY AWAY from thos tracks in the future. Cause they GOTTA be sticking up higher than nomal.

SPRINGS, first off if you cut a full coil off that will give you a full 3" of drop. NOW if you do a 3" drop in springs alone, YOU WILL NEVER BE ABLE TO ALIGN IT AGAIN. Cause your ride geometry will be all jacked up, basically leaving you with a negative camber.

If you must cut, then atleast submerge the spring in water to keep heat down.
When you shorten a spring it makes it stiffer, thus giving a bumpy ride. The new drop springs are wound shorter, with same load rating, giving a much nicer ride.

PLUS they are CHEAP, like I said many board vendors have them for sale, including me. Check out my signature.

Sorry if I'm rambiling.
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Old 01-09-2003, 11:48 PM   #32
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Get yourself some Bags and be done with it!!!
But if you insist on dropped coils I have a set of 3 inch drop coils for the front, still in the box, never on a truck!
$$75.00 plus a little shipping and there yours!!
Send me a P.M. if you them.
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Old 01-09-2003, 11:56 PM   #33
alta-aj
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Thanks again for the excellent reply 67/72 Junkie!!!

Now I savvy and you are right with my bud's truck config!

I've bookmarked your Website.

Cheers,
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Old 01-10-2003, 12:03 AM   #34
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Cool Brotha, that's what the board is for to learn. Hell I didn't know jack when I started hacking on cars and trucks 15yrs ago. My first truck in high school was a 71 chevy swb fleet. This was back in 1987, I dropped that truck 3-5 with the old blow torch. HEY I was 17 and didn't know no better. It road like SH!T, but it looked cool and that's all that matters when your in high school, LOL
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Old 01-10-2003, 12:08 AM   #35
chevy2racr
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Crazy, when you lower with stprings the trailing arms pivot to the frame to lower the truck, going though natural motions yes raisiing th rear in relation to other u-joint spots BUT the rear is twisting wih it all. with blocks te frame in relationship to the trailing arms is te same, butterear is higher witout the rotation.. that make any sence?
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Old 01-10-2003, 12:15 AM   #36
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Thanks for all the info guys, now i can get to work...
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Old 01-10-2003, 12:15 AM   #37
crazy longhorn
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I have to agree that 3"on a spring is pushing the geometry pretty hard. i have done a cut coil(1 full ring), & what was to be a temporary deal ......has run 10-12,000 mi! I dont have any complaints on the ride, other than the front feels a little 'soft". the truck handles good, & hasnt chewd the tires off the front. I have looked at other options, but will add a sway bar to the front to help give the springs a little boost....& just run it. i agree with the rest of the crowd that 2" on a front spring is about all you want to go to really keep front geometry as it should be......crazyL
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