lowering block ? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

dream68 · 01-07-2003, 11:13 PM

Would 3 inch lowering blocks be ok in the rear or is this pushing it? THANX

Low68 · 01-08-2003, 02:41 PM

I don't know if it would be a problem, but I don't know if anyone sells them. You might try calling early classic and ask them, or maybe a board distributor would know. Good Luck
Low68

**Classic Heartbeat** · 01-08-2003, 03:14 PM

We cary the 2" lowering blocks with U-bolts. We are also working on doing larger drops in the same aluminum blocks, but to make them as cheap as possible we will add aluminim blocks in either 1/2" or 1" increments. I would think that you shouldn't go more than 4 inches using blocks. The 2" kits are 74.95 but we haven't figured out the prices for 2 1/2" or larger yet. WES www.ClassicHeartbeat.com

Blackhawkdc · 01-08-2003, 09:16 PM

I'm interested in the same thing, but at $75 for the blocks, and $99 for new coils. Which would be the best route? I've already got 2 1/2" drop spindles in the front.

MandarinSixSeven · 01-08-2003, 09:21 PM

Hey dream68, sweet another Kelowna Boy!
what truck do you have? is it on the road right now?

paintpyro · 01-08-2003, 09:23 PM

I have 4 inch drop springs in the rear, and plan on relocating the tank, figure the fuel cell full would prob drop maybe an inch more. If I use drop blocks, am I going to have to notch for the additional drop?

Sorry dream, didnt mean to steal your thread.

dream68 · 01-08-2003, 09:53 PM

MandarinSixSeven, how ya doin bud. my 68 is probably about 1 year away from tearing up and down clifton rd. just started a frameup in october. is yours running yet?

dream68 · 01-08-2003, 09:55 PM

paintpyro::: by the sounds of it, you might have to dig a hole in the ground so you dont bottom out...

Gene · 01-08-2003, 11:14 PM

No paintpyro, the drop blocks simply drop the trailing arms and the rest of the truck. The rear end does not get close enough to the frame to warrant a notch. I have 3 inch blocks and I still have at least 6 inches until it gets remotely close to the frame.

Gene · 01-08-2003, 11:16 PM

Sorry, guess I should have read closer. I didnt realize you had drop springs. I would guess that it all depends on how close your rear end is to the frame on wether or not you will have to notch the frame.

**PICKMUP** · 01-09-2003, 12:27 AM

The maximum of 2" on blocks is for a safety reason. Any thing over about 2.25" moves the trailing arms down too far and gets the ubolt/nuts below the "scrub" line. Have a flat and you are throwing sparks and grooving the pavement...not cool and hard to drive...also not legal to have anything below the scrub line.

NSANE68!!! · 01-09-2003, 12:52 AM

YES, but scrub lines change with wheel diameter. I don't see anything wrong with 3-4" blocks, as long as you are concious of your scrub lines. Any block over 3" usually requires pinion angle correction. Either built into the block or a spacer.

barn9 · 01-09-2003, 01:21 AM

Vendors like Godfather's, etc., have the 3"block kits (actually a set of pre-drilled steel plates that let you drop in increments up to 3", including the U-bolts) for $29.95 last I looked. I have these on my truck, and no way in hell would I pay $74.95 for aluminum blocks! Sorry Wes, but aluminum is for beer cans.

Dropt72Shortbed · 01-09-2003, 01:45 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by PICKMUP
The maximum of 2" on blocks is for a safety reason. Any thing over about 2.25" moves the trailing arms down too far and gets the ubolt/nuts below the "scrub" line. Have a flat and you are throwing sparks and grooving the pavement...not cool and hard to drive...also not legal to have anything below the scrub line.

scrub line depends on your rim diameter.

if your running 15" stockers with 70 series tires then you may not want to run anything more than 2" blocks. but for the guys planning big diameter wheels, 18s and 20s it seems to me that you could go up to 3 or 4" on the blocks no problem.

im not sure if this is true on coil spring trucks but i know adding tall blocks (3" and up) on leaf spring trucks (such as my old s10s) you get alot for axle wrap when you slam on the gas.

neonlarry · 01-09-2003, 03:09 AM

Early Classic said DO NOT use blocks unless you like replacing u joints a lot. It will change the pinion angle too much.

Dropt72Shortbed · 01-09-2003, 03:20 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by neonlarry
Early Classic said DO NOT use blocks unless you like replacing u joints a lot. It will change the pinion angle too much.

they have shims to correct this. and most 3" and 4" blocks come with a bit of taper to them to correct the pinion angle

neonlarry · 01-09-2003, 03:34 AM

Well, that would probably work, but someone mentioned calling them to ask, and that's what they told me.

lost wages · 01-09-2003, 04:15 AM

i built my blocks, they are 3 inches tall, if you can find a machine shop they can cut some out for you, the steel is cheap, and if you have access to a large band saw they can me made pretty quick.

bigjimzlll · 01-09-2003, 08:02 AM

the blocks are easy..the U-bolts are a litttle harder to find

crazy longhorn · 01-09-2003, 09:03 AM

I have built lift blocks for my 4wd, just drilled short pcs of 2 1/2" heavy wall square tubing, & capped the ends with the welder. The u bolts can be made to any lenght at your local spring shop, & shouldnt be more than about $25 -30. Can somebody tell me how installing a flat block tween the axle & trail arm will change the pinion angle? crazyL

barn9 · 01-09-2003, 12:50 PM

Just checked Godfather Customs, the 3" kit is $22.00, a 4" kit with angled block is $25.00, including the U-bolts.

Dropt72Shortbed · 01-09-2003, 01:39 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by crazy longhorn
Can somebody tell me how installing a flat block tween the axle & trail arm will change the pinion angle? crazyL

well adding a 2" block in there doesnt really change the position of the trailing arm from the frame, the spring controls that. and your transmission stays same height with the frame. so its your rearend thats being pushed 2" higher in relationship to its old position with the transmission.

ive personally did 6,000 miles on my truck before tearing it down and it had 2" blocks with no shims. u joints are fine.

chevy2racr · 01-09-2003, 02:30 PM

Crazy, the more you'd go on this the further out te rear is from factory relitivity tothe tranny. makes the angles change cause the heigt of the rear is all the changes

Gene · 01-09-2003, 04:47 PM

Have had 3 inch blocks in my truck for 3 years now and have never replaced my old U-joints so i'd say its not hard on them, oh and I have a 1 piece driveshaft in a shortbed, I cannot say what it would do to a 2 piece one in a longbed?

70c10 · 01-09-2003, 05:06 PM

Cool, Adding 2" or 3" lowering blocks would get me about level with the front.

01-07-2003, 11:13 PM	#1
dream68 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: kelowna b.c. canada Posts: 75	lowering block ? Would 3 inch lowering blocks be ok in the rear or is this pushing it? THANX __________________ '68 Chev C-10 '91 Western Star (workin wheels) Just an ole time truckin idiot! Jim G.

01-08-2003, 02:41 PM	#2
Low68 Registered User Join Date: May 2001 Location: Arizona Posts: 758	I don't know if it would be a problem, but I don't know if anyone sells them. You might try calling early classic and ask them, or maybe a board distributor would know. Good Luck Low68 __________________ Build Thread

01-08-2003, 03:14 PM	#3
Classic Heartbeat Project Junkie! Fishing Poor!! Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Olympia,Wa. 98512 Posts: 10,770	We cary the 2" lowering blocks with U-bolts. We are also working on doing larger drops in the same aluminum blocks, but to make them as cheap as possible we will add aluminim blocks in either 1/2" or 1" increments. I would think that you shouldn't go more than 4 inches using blocks. The 2" kits are 74.95 but we haven't figured out the prices for 2 1/2" or larger yet. WES www.ClassicHeartbeat.com __________________ On-line catolog Classic Heartbeat Pickup Parts WEHEPP@comcast.net Call us Toll Free (888) 338-2502 Like Us on Facebook No appointment necessary. 72 BB Chevy Custom Deluxe / Custom Camper 67 I-6 (Soon to be 5.7 LS1) Panel 68 BB Chevy Short Bed 72 6.0 LQ9 Short Bed Chevy 4X4 Olympia's fastest growing truck parts supplier. Olympia's home for Wayward Chevys

01-08-2003, 09:16 PM	#4
Blackhawkdc 440 american Horses Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Anoka, MN USA Posts: 470	I'm interested in the same thing, but at $75 for the blocks, and $99 for new coils. Which would be the best route? I've already got 2 1/2" drop spindles in the front. __________________ Seth Petro 1969 Chev Short Step 425hp 350, TH400, big tires, fast truck 1979 Pontiac Trans Am 1991 Saturn SL1 - gas mileage! (and free) 1977 Buick LeSabre - for sale May America bless God, and may God bless America

01-08-2003, 09:21 PM	#5
MandarinSixSeven Seasonal Poster Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Kelowna BC Canada Posts: 896	Hey dream68, sweet another Kelowna Boy! what truck do you have? is it on the road right now? __________________ 67 GMC Short Step 350/4-Speed/3.08 Posi Front/Rear Sway Bars Kelowna BC, Canada Member of DTPW

01-08-2003, 09:23 PM	#6
paintpyro Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Santa Fe Springs, CA,USA Posts: 1,579	I have 4 inch drop springs in the rear, and plan on relocating the tank, figure the fuel cell full would prob drop maybe an inch more. If I use drop blocks, am I going to have to notch for the additional drop? Sorry dream, didnt mean to steal your thread. __________________ 70 shortbed stepside "Schleprock" 350 w/TH400 rallys and BFGs -We can rebuild it, we have the technology-lower,shinier,faster

01-08-2003, 09:53 PM	#7
dream68 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: kelowna b.c. canada Posts: 75	MandarinSixSeven, how ya doin bud. my 68 is probably about 1 year away from tearing up and down clifton rd. just started a frameup in october. is yours running yet? __________________ '68 Chev C-10 '91 Western Star (workin wheels) Just an ole time truckin idiot! Jim G.

01-08-2003, 09:55 PM	#8
dream68 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: kelowna b.c. canada Posts: 75	paintpyro::: by the sounds of it, you might have to dig a hole in the ground so you dont bottom out... __________________ '68 Chev C-10 '91 Western Star (workin wheels) Just an ole time truckin idiot! Jim G.

01-08-2003, 11:14 PM	#9
Gene Registered User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Muskogee, Oklahoma Posts: 2,914	No paintpyro, the drop blocks simply drop the trailing arms and the rest of the truck. The rear end does not get close enough to the frame to warrant a notch. I have 3 inch blocks and I still have at least 6 inches until it gets remotely close to the frame. __________________ 1971 SWB 4X4 Build BOARD MEMBER #5448 BOOMER SOONER!!!!

01-08-2003, 11:16 PM	#10
Gene Registered User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Muskogee, Oklahoma Posts: 2,914	Sorry, guess I should have read closer. I didnt realize you had drop springs. I would guess that it all depends on how close your rear end is to the frame on wether or not you will have to notch the frame. __________________ 1971 SWB 4X4 Build BOARD MEMBER #5448 BOOMER SOONER!!!!

01-09-2003, 12:27 AM	#11
PICKMUP "Trucks with Class" Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: OLYMPIA, WA, USA Posts: 8,126	The maximum of 2" on blocks is for a safety reason. Any thing over about 2.25" moves the trailing arms down too far and gets the ubolt/nuts below the "scrub" line. Have a flat and you are throwing sparks and grooving the pavement...not cool and hard to drive...also not legal to have anything below the scrub line. __________________ Email: frankeham@comcast.net Phone: 360-956-7170

01-09-2003, 12:52 AM	#12
NSANE68!!! SLICER AND DICIER Join Date: May 2001 Location: Quuen Creek Posts: 1,383	YES, but scrub lines change with wheel diameter. I don't see anything wrong with 3-4" blocks, as long as you are concious of your scrub lines. Any block over 3" usually requires pinion angle correction. Either built into the block or a spacer. __________________ 01 Tahoe 22's 2/4 drop and tv's 68 chevy money pit 51 chevy belair 95 Honda 900RR 05 GMC Siearra (company truck)

01-09-2003, 01:21 AM	#13
barn9 Half a bubble off! Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Winfield, Ks, USA Posts: 5,588	Vendors like Godfather's, etc., have the 3"block kits (actually a set of pre-drilled steel plates that let you drop in increments up to 3", including the U-bolts) for $29.95 last I looked. I have these on my truck, and no way in hell would I pay $74.95 for aluminum blocks! Sorry Wes, but aluminum is for beer cans. __________________ Just call me LB. '71 Cheyenne, 402BB, hauls blondes, brunettes, or redheads.

01-09-2003, 03:09 AM	#15
neonlarry Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Vacaville, CA Posts: 2,746	Early Classic said DO NOT use blocks unless you like replacing u joints a lot. It will change the pinion angle too much. __________________ 70 C/10 Light Red 350/TH350, HEI, Duals w/40 series Flows, 91 seat, LED taillights 99 Pontiac S/C GTP, SLP Ram Air hood, GMPP Konis & springs 95 Neon ACR, MP PCM, AFX UDP, 3.0 CAI

01-09-2003, 03:34 AM	#17
neonlarry Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Vacaville, CA Posts: 2,746	Well, that would probably work, but someone mentioned calling them to ask, and that's what they told me. __________________ 70 C/10 Light Red 350/TH350, HEI, Duals w/40 series Flows, 91 seat, LED taillights 99 Pontiac S/C GTP, SLP Ram Air hood, GMPP Konis & springs 95 Neon ACR, MP PCM, AFX UDP, 3.0 CAI



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01-09-2003, 04:15 AM	#18
lost wages Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: jefferson city, mo Posts: 1,364	i built my blocks, they are 3 inches tall, if you can find a machine shop they can cut some out for you, the steel is cheap, and if you have access to a large band saw they can me made pretty quick. Attached Images

01-09-2003, 08:02 AM	#19
bigjimzlll Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Redding,CA...USA Posts: 4,736	the blocks are easy..the U-bolts are a litttle harder to find __________________ It's called "drag racing" if they called it "tic..tic..WHAM!..BANG! F*&K!!!", they'd have to keep the magazines under the counter with the other men's publications click the clicky to join the site.... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/payments.php 67 lwb..first hotrod in 25 years..540 best ET is 9.45 @ 141.44 Anderson,CA

01-09-2003, 09:03 AM	#20
crazy longhorn Fabricate till you "puke" Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Ill Posts: 9,403	I have built lift blocks for my 4wd, just drilled short pcs of 2 1/2" heavy wall square tubing, & capped the ends with the welder. The u bolts can be made to any lenght at your local spring shop, & shouldnt be more than about $25 -30. Can somebody tell me how installing a flat block tween the axle & trail arm will change the pinion angle? crazyL __________________ 69 longhorn,4" chop,3/5 drop, 1/2 ton suspension/disc brakes,1 1/2" body drop,steel tilt clip, 5.3/Edelbrock rpm intake/600 carb, Hooker streetrod shorties,2 1/2" exhaust/ H pipe/50's Flows , 6 spd Richmond trans,12 bolt/ 3.40 gears....

01-09-2003, 12:50 PM	#21
barn9 Half a bubble off! Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Winfield, Ks, USA Posts: 5,588	Just checked Godfather Customs, the 3" kit is $22.00, a 4" kit with angled block is $25.00, including the U-bolts. __________________ Just call me LB. '71 Cheyenne, 402BB, hauls blondes, brunettes, or redheads.

01-09-2003, 02:30 PM	#23
chevy2racr So Many Ideas, So Little Money Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Marshalltown, IA Posts: 1,610	Crazy, the more you'd go on this the further out te rear is from factory relitivity tothe tranny. makes the angles change cause the heigt of the rear is all the changes __________________ 72 Blazer 3/4 ton running gear 4.10s NP205/TH350 350 4in lift half doors 71 C10 with 454 99 S-10 5.1L SBC 700R4 09 Malibu Marshalltown, Iowa

01-09-2003, 04:47 PM	#24
Gene Registered User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Muskogee, Oklahoma Posts: 2,914	Have had 3 inch blocks in my truck for 3 years now and have never replaced my old U-joints so i'd say its not hard on them, oh and I have a 1 piece driveshaft in a shortbed, I cannot say what it would do to a 2 piece one in a longbed? __________________ 1971 SWB 4X4 Build BOARD MEMBER #5448 BOOMER SOONER!!!!

01-09-2003, 05:06 PM	#25
70c10 67-72 Addict! Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: The TAX State! Posts: 7,857	Cool, Adding 2" or 3" lowering blocks would get me about level with the front. __________________ Jim 1970 C/10 Fleetside w/Ghost Flames Lowered 4.5" front and 4" rear (Raked) 355/350 Turbo w/shift kit 10" Redneck Performance Verter w/2500 stall Hooker Super Comps part#2808-1 Performer RPM Air-Gap 12 Bolt w/3:73 gears- Eaton Posi Comp Cams XE262 with 1.6 Crane Energizers, Road Demon 625 and Brodix IK 180 heads

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