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Old 12-15-2003, 04:50 AM   #26
Russell
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Hmm, seems fairly simple... I'll keep my eye out for some new power window motors...
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Old 12-15-2003, 03:48 PM   #27
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Russell,

here you go.

http://www.73-87.com/garage/winmotor.htm
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Old 12-15-2003, 09:40 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally posted by rfmaster
Note that holes 3 and 4 are outside door panel - so it is not a clean, factory like install – can not be helped.
Just making a note that this wouldn't have been a problem if you used the 77-up doors. This puts 77-91 motors in the 73-76 doors and it doens't look factory becuase 73-76 doors never had electric windows.
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Old 12-16-2003, 01:53 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally posted by Captkaos


Just making a note that this wouldn't have been a problem if you used the 77-up doors. This puts 77-91 motors in the 73-76 doors and it doens't look factory becuase 73-76 doors never had electric windows.
True, but the whole idea of this DIY was to publish info related to putting PW in 1973 to 1976 trucks were PW's were not offered. Also, if I recall someone tried to install 77up doors on earlier trucks and had some issues. In my case I have a '75 truck with '75 doors. This project is not over yet. Next weekend, time and weather allowing I'll do the other side and harness install.

AR
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Old 12-16-2003, 02:42 AM   #30
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rfmaster, I think I'm with you on it so far. I can imagine where you ran in to problems, and like you said, another pair of hands may have helped things go smoother.

Captkaos mentions the difference in the 73-76 doors pertaining to the #3-4 bolts showing. What is the difference in the 73-76 doors, and the later ones? It's late, or I would go compare mine to your pics.

In your case, couldn't you run carriage bolts from the outside, and paint the heads black? On mine, I plan to add the Silverado carpeted panels below my door panel anyway. With a carriage bolt running through to the inside, the carpet would cover the head.

Will this work, or am I missing something????
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Old 12-16-2003, 11:17 AM   #31
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77's have the holes you need Ken.
73-76


77-91
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Old 12-16-2003, 11:29 AM   #32
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Thanks Chris. I never realized there was that much difference in the 73-76 inner door skins.
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Old 12-16-2003, 12:06 PM   #33
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FWIW, the later vent windows will fit the early doors. I put 87 model vents in my 73 doors this weekend. The newer inner door handles and door locks bolt in too. Which holes are different for the power window install?
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Old 12-16-2003, 12:11 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jonboy
FWIW, the later vent windows will fit the early doors. I put 87 model vents in my 73 doors this weekend. The newer inner door handles and door locks bolt in too. Which holes are different for the power window install?
Thanks for the info. The bolt holes in question are refering to the previous page-

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Old 12-17-2003, 02:29 AM   #35
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This is what this whole board is about. Finding what can be done with old (but good) iron.

I can not use carriage bolts from outside, new kit sold by A1 uses studs to mount assembly. BTW, motors are made in Italy!

It looks like, based on pic provided, 73-76 will have exposed nuts/studs at holes #3 &4. It is not an issue for me. A little bit of paint will do the trick. My truck is not a Lexus, so having couple of nuts out of place will not break my heart.


Captkaos, thank for posting side by side pics of the 73-76 and 77 up doors.
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Old 12-17-2003, 02:43 AM   #36
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You're welcome.
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Old 01-16-2004, 01:17 AM   #37
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Any updates?
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Old 01-16-2004, 12:09 PM   #38
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dumb question, would installing a factory set of power windows to a non power truck be as much of a pain? assuming I have the correct harness etc...
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Old 01-16-2004, 01:56 PM   #39
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From the looks of the pics, if you were to put a set of 77-up door panels on, it would cover up the bolt holes. This would probably also help mount the switches as well, as I don't think there is a good place to mount them on the cheaper model door panels. The Silverado/Chevenne door panels were flat, but the custom/Scottsdale panels had a raised ridge around the window crank. I used a set of 81-up door panels on my 73 doors, and just used a self tapping screw at the bottom. The door panels and attachments worked just fine.
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Old 01-16-2004, 06:34 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally posted by cochino12
....would installing a factory set of power windows to a non power truck be as much of a pain? assuming I have the correct harness etc...
Doing anything inside our doors is like giving a cat a bath. You can do it, but your gonna come out scratched up.

Using the factory stuff should be the "easiest" way to get the job done. From what I have researched on the subject it may not be the "best" way though. It seems that the downfall of using OEM parts are the GM motors. From what I have seen, read, and been told they suck when they are new, and get worse from there.

The motors that come with these kits are supposed to be much better/faster/stronger and cheaper than GM motors. This seems to be the kit of choice for the 67-72 guys.

You have to factor in cost as well. The A-1 Electric kit sells for $239.95. I have seen all the used ones for sale on Ebay, but haven't paid attention to the actual selling price. My guess is after you buy a used set from Ebay, or wherever, then put new motors on you aren't too far away from the A-1 kit.

I do plan to use the factory harness, boots, and OEM "style" switches. I also plan to mount them in the stock location on the door panel...

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Old 01-16-2004, 06:39 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally posted by N2TRUX
Doing anything inside our doors is like giving a cat a bath. You can do it, but your gonna come out scratched up.

Using the factory stuff should be the "easiest" way to get the job done. From what I have researched on the subject it may not be the "best" way though. It seems that the downfall of using OEM parts are the GM motors. From what I have seen, read, and been told they suck when they are new, and get worse from there.

The motors that come with these kits are supposed to be much better/faster/stronger and cheaper than GM motors. This seems to be the kit of choice for the 67-72 guys.

You have to factor in cost as well. The A-1 Electric kit sells for $239.95. I have seen all the used ones for sale on Ebay, but haven't paid attention to the actual selling price. My guess is after you buy a used set from Ebay, or wherever, then put new motors on you aren't too far away from the A-1 kit.

I do plan to use the factory harness, boots, and OEM "style" switches. I also plan to mount them in the stock location on the door panel...
thats what I was thinking but I got a killer deal on some parts. I traded about $150 for a full factory setup and most all the parts I needed for my 89-91 suburban front end. I am going to try and get the factory stuff in this weekend.
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Old 01-16-2004, 07:58 PM   #42
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Heck yeah! If you got it use it. Neither one of my trucks have power windows or locks. I plan to install both, and want to do it just once. If I had access to a deal on OEM parts then I would consider that route. Since I have to start from scratch no matter what I want everything new...
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Old 02-05-2005, 05:29 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonboy
From the looks of the pics, if you were to put a set of 77-up door panels on, it would cover up the bolt holes. This would probably also help mount the switches as well, as I don't think there is a good place to mount them on the cheaper model door panels. The Silverado/Chevenne door panels were flat, but the custom/Scottsdale panels had a raised ridge around the window crank. I used a set of 81-up door panels on my 73 doors, and just used a self tapping screw at the bottom. The door panels and attachments worked just fine.
I've heard that the 77+ door panels wouldn't work on the 73-76 doors without a lot of work. Just looking at them, it didn't look like much difference, so I found an old one from a 77 model to just try on my 76. The only thing that appears to be a "problem" is that my window regluator doesn't come out far enough to put the manual crank on. Are you saying that it wouldn't be a problem with a Silverado/Cheyenne door panel?

Mike
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Old 02-05-2005, 10:49 PM   #44
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ALL 77+ door panels stick out to far to be used with 73-76 manual stalks as you have found.
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Old 02-05-2005, 11:10 PM   #45
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Quote:
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ALL 77+ door panels stick out to far to be used with 73-76 manual stalks as you have found.
Thanks for the info. Can the stalks be changed out, or would I have to change out the entire window regulator? Or will 77+ window regulators even fit in a 73-76 door?

Mike
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