Power window conversion-

[N2TRUX]

Has anyone here tried these. I want to convert my 77 to power windows and locks. I know I could get them from the salavge yard, but I don't want used parts. I want to do this one time, and be done with it.
They seem to be a popular conversion for the 67-72 trucks....

A1 Electric

[rfmaster]

I have a '75 C20. I bought conversion kit from A1 electric about a month or so ago. They sell the following kit for 75: GM01-K (GM C Series Power Window Kit) for 240 bucks and expect to spend around $40 for switches and harness. In addition, I'll have to replace the sash and channel filler for 81-87. LMC truck sells these as well:

38-5938 SASH-CHANNEL ASSY-LH 1 REQ 1 24.95 24.95
38-5939 SASH-CHANNEL ASSY-RH 1 REQ 1 24.95 24.95
38-5932 FILLER CHANNEL 2 REQ 2 3.95 7.90

There are minor mods required - drilling the 2 bottom holes which are not found on 74-77 models. Upper holes are there.
You can hang the right side regulator on the outside of the left door to mark the lower holes since the left and right are mirror images of each other. I'll post detailed pics with installation on my truck after the holidays.

B4N
AR

[N2TRUX]

rfmaster, I really appreciate your response. I talked to a couple of guys that used the kit for 67-72 trucks and they liked it. Your the first I have found that used it on a 73-87 truck.

I already have a complete power window/lock harness, I plan to buy OEM style switches. I found them on Ebay, but I'll compare with LMC.

Ok, exactly what is a SASH-CHANNEL, and FILLER CHANNEL? I'll look them up, but maybe you can explain.

Yes, if you have pics of the install, that would be awesome...

[swervin ervin]

Ken,

don't forget about the dealer for the switches.

[rfmaster]

N2TRUX and all

Well, I guess I got ahead of myself. I have not installed the kit yet, although I have pulled the door panels and did a preliminary survey of what I have to do. It is not too bad. For the most part it is a bolt in.
Regarding channel sash – it is a metal slide assembly, which is secured to the bottom of the glass. Manual (and electric) scissor style regulators used 3 small sliding wheels to slide up down the window – as you can see in the picture. The first two are used to lift the window glass. Third wheel is guided by the door glass channel guide, which is bolted inside the door from entry edge, to keep upper window edge aligned with the upper portion of the door. A1 Electric recommends to check door glass channel guide as they tend to wear out after 30 years! LMC sells them as well:

38-5966 DOOR GLASS CHANNEL-RR GUIDE-LH 1 18.95 18.95
38-5967 DOOR GLASS CHANNEL-RR GUIDE-RH 1 18.95 18.95

The main reason behind the replacement of the channel sash is that the A1 kit is designed for 77 and later channel sash which is different from a manual sash used with manual regulators for 74 through 81?. I bought my switches from A1, although they are not OEM style. I’ll probably start on this project next weekend. My two cents worth.

AR

[N2TRUX]

rfmaster, Well you had me all excited for a minute. At least you are ahead of me, so that's still very helpful. It's obvious you have done your reserch as well.

My truck is restored, so I want to keep everything looking original inside. That's why I plan to use OEM switches.

I "think" that I follow everything you are saying about the parts needed. Have you checked with GM to see if they have them still? I don't know what experience you have had with LMC, but mine has been hit and miss. Like Mike said above, sometimes the best bet is still the dealer. We have found that certain items are even cheaper there if you don't pay retail.

Keep us posted when you get any updates...

[rfmaster]

N2TRUX and all

We all can agree that having OEM parts is nice. If my memory serves me right LMC shipped me OEM (ie GM wrapped and labeled parts). I am still at my office and will not be home until late Sunday. I’ll post GM part numbers from what I have at that time. As far as OEM look – well my truck (The Beast) I doubt that I’ll be able to restore it to factory like new condition. Non-withstanding, I tend to keep it for a while and like to upgrade it us much as possible. Already I have converted my truck from external hood latch release to an internal, pull cable release.

AR

[dswancutt]

N2TRUX

If you can find a junk 77-80 with power windows and locks, you might what to grab the trim panels. There are metal clips that go through the punched power switch holes with tabs that bend back on the backside of the door panel that hold the switches to the panel. Also, the switches for 77-80 are different than the ones used on 82-87.

Doug

[rfmaster]

Doug

Do you have any pics of 77-80 panels? It is a good idea to locate switches in the stock location. Also, this means making an opening in the plastic door panel, in my case, for the up/down switches.

Alex

[Russell]

This is my 1980 truck's switches. What all is involved in actually removing the power window setup? I heard somewhere that you had to cut the door panel? Is this true?

[dswancutt]

Alex,

The stock GM door panels have the holes for the for the power switches molded in them. All GM did, was to cut holes in the trim panel for the switches. I don't have a camera, but I can borrow one from work and shoot some pictures of the panels and the inserts and try to post them.

Russell;

I have never removed power door panels, but all the switches are on the panel. I going from memory here, but you have to take off the pull straps (you will break the covers if you are not carefull), pop the remove the arm rest, and the screws at the bottom of the panel I can't remember if there are any push fasteners holding the panel. You then lift the panel straight up and out and disconect the wires from the switches. N2TRUX has removed his panels and would probably know the sequence better.

Hope this helps you guys.

Doug

[Russell]

I know how to get the plastic covers off, I've done it a couple times already, but what I need to know is how to get the power window assembly out of the door, I heard that you had to cut the metal out to get at the window assembly. I didn't really look last time I had my panels off, so I can't really tell what it takes to get those motors out of there. Are they just bolted in? Anyone got any pictures?

[rfmaster]

Hi Gents (and ladies)

Well, here are the pics for the bottom sash assy (LH/RH)

GM 15590401 => LMC 38-5938 SASH-CHANNEL ASSY-LH 1 REQ 1 24.95 24.95
GM15590402 => LMC 38-5939 SASH-CHANNEL ASSY-RH 1 REQ 1 24.95 24.95

Looks like the weekend of 14th is the start for the retrofit for me. Russell, thank you for the switch location pic. I think that there is enough interest to put a DIY page together.

AR

[rfmaster]

This is what power regulator with bottom sash look like (left side)






AR

[rfmaster]

To all

Just finished drivers side on my truck. It is a bit of PIA, but I was able to install Power Regulator. Harness and switches will be done later. I'll post pics later this weekend.


AR

[r0lf-]

N2, if your gonna go through the hassle of going with Electric door locks, then atleast put them on remote. You can easily hide all the wiring and sensors in the door. And its very nice to unlock 2 doors with one switch.

[N2TRUX]

Originally posted by r0lf-
N2, if your gonna go through the hassle of going with Electric door locks, then atleast put them on remote. You can easily hide all the wiring and sensors in the door. And its very nice to unlock 2 doors with one switch.

I do plan to hook the locks to an alarm remote. I'm still a bit confused on how I want them to work though. I like the way my late model GM's remote unlocks the drivers door on one push, and the passenger door on the second push. When I arm it, both doors lock at the same time.

I need to research current alarm systems to see if they will do it that way.

rfmaster- What kind of problems did you run into? Is there any way I can avoid the same thing, or is it just a pain regardless?

[rfmaster]

To all

N2TRUX here is the short version.

Remove panel - no problem (remember having right tools)
secure glass with masking tape
remove manual regulator (4 bolts)
remove glass - easy
remove old sash - easy
install new sach with filler - major pain tight fit with filler rubber
locate mounting holes for new power window regulator - make a template, drill two holes
Install power regulator - easy
install glass with new sach, mate with regulator - Major PIA


Picture are here

[rfmaster]

4 bolts that hold window regulator

[rfmaster]

New power regulator is in, note that upper two holes are no longer used. The lower two holes are new. I build a template out of cardboard to locate new holes.

AR

[rfmaster]

Note that holes 3 and 4 are outside door panel - so it is not a clean, factory like install – can not be helped. I used hand lotion to get glass secured with new sash and filler rubber - this is a major PIA.

Getting sash mated with regulator arms is also a pain. Secure glass with a masking tape about 90% closed. Attach motor electrical pig tail wiring harness. Move power regulator to about same position (use temp wiring from a fused 20 amp 12 VDC source), but do not bolt it in! Place it inside door. Position regulator wheels into sash and inside door horizontal rail. This is the PIA part - locate regulator 4 mounting holes. Secure 4 mounting nuts.

Wiring is next.

Picture is for right side to be installed.

Questions?


AR

[Russell]

What is involved in just replacing the motor on a truck that already has power windows?

[rfmaster]

Russell

Probably just a straight forward replacement of the power regulator.

Check factory wiring against A1 schematic


AR

[Russell]

Well, I mean, what kind of work does that involve? If its something that I can easily mess up, I need to be prepared for it, lol, What do I need to do to get the motors out and detach it from the glass? How do I swap the motor over?

I my switches are fine, its just that the motors are old and tired, they are gonna get stuck down one of these days...

[rfmaster]

Russel

I did this job by myself (well, just the driver side in about three hours). It takes some planning and helps to have a helper. I think in your case it is a simpler job.

remove panel
Glass is secured with masking tape at about 90% closed position and is NOT removed.
remove old power reg bolts (4).
slide out old power regulator
adjust new power regulator to about the same position as old regulator (use temp, fused 12 source).
Insert new regulator into the door
position control arms into the sash
locate mounting studs on the regulator with holes
secure mounting nuts.
connect harness
check up down control

Do it your own risk.

Call A1 Electric Automotive Accessories for more information
(888) 838-0506
In Los Angeles Call (310) 217-0077
1610 W Artesia Blvd Suite A6, Gardena, California 90248