ZDDP.....Zinc.....Save Yourselves

[HEI451]

Rotella, RPM Delo, Valvoline, good stuff, Pennzoil, bad, bad, bad. I am NOT a 0W-Noting kinda person, give me a nice 20W-50 or straight 30W or 40W every time. Haven't used Mobil 1, because it is a fairly strong synthetic make up, but I hear it works well in later model, induction hardened/roller cam engines.

For some of my older air and liquid cooled engines, I use O'Reilly's brands, NO problems at all. Have used CarQuest as well in the past, also NO problems.

[Weasel Diesel]

Get this stuff and run whatever weight - brand conventional oil you'd like. 1 - 4oz bottle per oil change, and yer good. I fell prey to the NO ZDDP monster and learned my lesson well. Lets just say that " The VooDoo had nothing on the No ZDDP Ju-Ju". Within 5000 miles my cam was round. Had to build her a second time to get rid of all the metal. Started using this stuff, and over 30,000 on it now and the cam lobes look great. Got the specs from the chemical manufacturer, and 1 bottle puts you right into the 1200 - 1500 ppm breadbasket.

http://www.eastwood.com/ew-zddp-oil-additive-4-oz.html
Eastwood also takes Paypal, which is convienient for me. They also have a qty discount. I get the 3 pack.
Me?, I run 10-40 Havoline and this stuff.

[1963c-10]

Wow, some great food for thought. Who ever guessed engine oil would be so much of a headache. The ZDDP additive is the way to go for me.

[scottofksu]

Pretty much any "racing" oil will have plenty of zinc as they are not concerned with meeting API standards. Personally, I use Valvoline VR1 (20w50) in my MGB and my truck will be running a roller cam and lifters...

[creep]

The booklet that came with my motor said to use Shell Rotella T for 3000 miles and after that I could use whatever oil I wanted but I may stick with the Rotella T.

[Weasel Diesel]

Originally Posted by 1963c-10

Who ever guessed engine oil would be so much of a headache.

Hahahahaha.... The problem is, time and technology is going foreward, and we refuse to budge....hahahaha

[chevyrestoguy]

Rotella T is readily available at most any parts store and works fine. For flat-tappet engines, I still recommend a zinc additive at every oil change for added protection. It's cheap insurance.

With the exception of the zinc loss, most engine oils today are pretty good. Once you get your zinc additives dailed in, the best oil you can run is clean oil.

[waspp]

I have always used Rotella diesel oil because higher zinc levels. even though the new formula has less zinc is should be adequate for old flat tappet engines. Amsoil 10w40 also has high zinc content I believe.

[Weasel Diesel]

Watch AMSOIL closely, they have multiple series of weights, but only certain ones have the upgraded formula. Here is the AMSOIL bulletin;

http://www.amsoil.com/techservicesbu...t%20tappet.pdf

[Heater63]

Here is another source for ZDDP: www.schneidercams.com it's what I run.

They not only recommend it, they require you to use their break-in and oil additive (Mr. Schneider started in the cam business with Bruce Crower in the 50's...they have sold a few flat tappet cams!)

[62 Longbed]

Rotella T 15w 40 Been working Great in the 261 engine I have in my truck .. Yes ... its a 261 ....
Came Highly Recommened to use by local guy here that use to Race and Build 6 cyl.. engines ... Considering what is happening out there as the future progresses ..

[maxwoof]

I used rotella 15w40 for may years in both gas and diesel engines. Also found Pep Boys 15w40 to be pretty good as well, believe it or not.

I always belived that the "thicker" oils were better. Here is a link from a Ferarri guy who says otherwise, pretty convincingly:

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/faq...=haas_articles

Good luck

[Northern lights]

Originally Posted by 63 & 64 Bowties

It wasn't until 2007 for heavy trucks.

CAT started using catalytic converters with the introduction of the "ACERT" engines in late '04/early'05. Late '07/early'08 was when they started using DPF. I always use RotellaT 15w-40 only because I buy it by the pallet (36 X 20L pails) so I always have it on hand. I'm told that it does not have the zinc in it any more but, so far I haven't had any cam issues. I am going to find a good ZDDP additive and start using it with the Rotella.

[notsolo]

Originally Posted by A.T. RockDriller

This one isn't the sexiest of subjects...
We have talked about this subject before, and forgive me if there is already a "big old" thread out there staring me in the face....but this subject deserves a bunch of attention and I am sure a bunch of you guys know a whole lot more than I do on this....so inform us.
I just posted this on another part of the board and figured I'd put it top and center for every ones benefit...
Quote:
This is (or should be) the #1 mechanical subject of discussion for us, as classic/high-performance vehicle owners.
No $hit, fella's.
The government has made some mandates that have affected the additives used in over the counter motor oils as of late.
#1 point of concern is zinc content (which is added as a anti-scuff/abrasion and anti wear agent) in motor oils for gasoline engines.
For the most part, zinc has all but been removed from these oils. ZDDP has been the silent savior for flat-tappet cams over the years. It is also responsible for early failure of catalytic converters, and since the government has mandated 100K mile minimum performance standards for cat's for 2012 emissions, oil companies are getting a jump on it....at our expense.
There is quite a bit of info out there on this if you search for it.
Without ZDDP in our oils you can expect cam failure in as little as the first hours of run time on new motors and engine life on our "already broke in" engines to be shortened by a factor of 20. (yes, 1/20th of normal life)
There sure are ways to save our butts....Additives...some diesel oils...etc.
I suggest any oils with the "SM" or "SN" designations be avoided.
Brad Penn break-in oils and racing oils are formulated properly to avoid the damage inherent to these new oil's. Some synthetics also have the right stuff.
Look close at the additives in your favorite oils.
It has been touched on by quite a few of us lately.....but it sure needs to be taken seriously.
If you ever wondered....new engine's being manufactured today have "all roller" valve trains and it's not just for the performance advantages.
Learn as much as you can about this.....keep these old power plants runnin' for a few more decades.

I went with Comp Cam engine break in/ and additive. add a bottle with every oil change ... Time will tell if this has enough ZDDP Their web site also has tech info.

[treveiger]

I use the 10w40 full synthetic with zinc in if from ams oil. It's made specially for older motors with flat tappet cams. Works great for me.
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[oldblue1968chevy]

So can I run the silver bottle valvoline vr1 and change the oil every 3000 miles?

Im running the black bottle vr1 and the oil blakc as..well lol

Is the silver bottle good for 3000 mile intervals?

[Weasel Diesel]

I looked it up on website... Looks like you'll be ok as it states for Flat tappet cams..

VR1 Racing Oil (VR1)
The #1 selling racing motor oil. High zinc provides race-level protection for any vehicle.


•High zinc/phosphorus provides extreme wear protection, including flat tappet applications
•Additional friction modfiers to help deliver maximum horsepower
•Enhanced anti-foam system protects engine during extreme stress
•Compatible with gasoline or alcohol fuels
•Available through leading auto parts retailers

[oldblue1968chevy]

anti foam, is that what keeps it clean? I read up top its only good for about 500 milse till it needs changed lol

[Chris4x4Gill2]

This is always a hot topic on my boat forum at the beginning of winter (layup season). Most of the old Correct Crafts run Chevy or Ford V8's.

Mostly I use the STP ZDDP adative to my oil. Seems the most common oils with ZDDP already in them is Vlavoline VR-1 and some of the Rotella stuff.

[GRX]

What gets me is that Catalytic converters have been mandatory since 1975. Yet it took them all this time to take the ZDDP out?

Remember when they took the Lead out of the fuel and all those engines started pulling exhaust valves up through the head? This is more of the same. Growing pains for those of us who like to drive & maintain older engines.

I would suggest everyone stock up. Only a matter of time before they eliminate ZDDP additives. Just like they did with Lead fuel additives many years ago.

[Weasel Diesel]

Originally Posted by GRX

Only a matter of time before they eliminate ZDDP additives. Just like they did with Lead fuel additives many years ago.

Yea, they will come up with something like, causes cancer, birth defects if you drink it, or vaginal warts or something stupid like that. Why is it that the EPA gets rid of anything that works. Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying dump antifreeze in a creek or anything, but the EPA just carries stuff way too far.

[67swb72klb]

Originally Posted by Weasel Diesel

the EPA just carries stuff way too far.

^i agree they make things out to be 10x worse than they realy are

[richards72chevy]

I agree too.They dont seem to worry about how much energy and pollution it takes to produce a new disposable car!

[Gumby]

That why the "rash" of break in oils are out, the get around the laws and EPA as they can prove its needed to that level for break in atleast. Just folks will run it all the time.

[theastronaut]

I use Brade Penn Grade 1 20W-50 partial synthetic. The number one guy in all of high performance aircooled VW's reccomends it (Jake Raby), and that's good enough for me. VW's only have four lobes on the cam and eight lifters, so the cam is getting the oil "wiped" off twice as often since each lobe shares two lifters- basicly getting half of the lubrication that any other camshaft would. If Brad Penn Grade 1 will work in those conditions, then it should work just fine in anything else.