2wd to 4wd.....just curious

[mcmlxix]

Originally Posted by FLYNAVY30

That would actually make a lot of sense since I already have a built 6.0L LS along with a Gear Star STG II 4L65E.

Also, some states are particular about the partial VIN stamp on the frame matching the body and title.

For the rear, I went with a later model 2004 GMC 2500 with disc brakes and a drum in hat emergency brake. Nice to have 4 wheel disc brakes...

[FLYNAVY30]

Thanks for the info guys....lots to consider. At the moment, its a 3/4 ton C20 with a built 6.0L LS and STG II 4L65E. The rear is the factory Dana 60 and I've already converted to 4 wheels disc brakes....although I do not yet have a parking brake solution.

[Mike C]

Was it a factory big block truck? Interesting that it is Dana 60 as most small block coil trucks were HO52.

One of the reason I like sticking with the drums. I have an '86 Sub rear in my Jimmy, 8 lug semi-float with the 13" drums. Parking brake works GREAT!

[FLYNAVY30]

Yes, it was a factory C20 with the 402 big block and trailing arms with coil springs in the rear. It does have the "helper" leaf springs for towing.

[HO455]

For the quad curious. I stumbled across these photos of a Dodge 205 set up and thought of this thread. Just food for thought. This particular 205 is set up for a PTO winch hence the 2 driveshafts going forward. The driver's side shaft is for the winch.

[FLYNAVY30]

nice, thanks! Decisions, decisions, decisions....

[mcmlxix]

How deep are your pockets?
Custom modular chassis for 67-72 4x4 trucks...K5 Blazer, K10/K20 SWB or LWB ... 4 linked or IFS... SBC BBC LSX 6BT
check them out at
www.patriotchassis.com

First build was an IFS 3/4 ton LSx powere Blazer with a 4 link in the rear that's AWD like a late model Yukon Denali

[PropMan]

Originally Posted by mcmlxix

How deep are your pockets?
Custom modular chassis for 67-72 4x4 trucks...K5 Blazer, K10/K20 SWB or LWB ... 4 linked or IFS... SBC BBC LSX 6BT
check them out at
www.patriotchassis.com

First build was an IFS 3/4 ton LSx powere Blazer with a 4 link in the rear that's AWD like a late model Yukon Denali

You Sir are going to cost me a lot of money. Haven't seen these.

[FLYNAVY30]

Originally Posted by mcmlxix

How deep are your pockets?
Custom modular chassis for 67-72 4x4 trucks...K5 Blazer, K10/K20 SWB or LWB ... 4 linked or IFS... SBC BBC LSX 6BT
check them out at
www.patriotchassis.com

First build was an IFS 3/4 ton LSx powere Blazer with a 4 link in the rear that's AWD like a late model Yukon Denali

DANGER! DANGER! Thanks for the link! In all seriousness, this is an option I'd like to explore...looks like their prices are SIGNIFICANTLY more reasonable than the Roadster Shop chassis I posted in another thread a few weeks back.

[Reno]

I’m converting a pristine rust free 2WD 1968 to 4x4 using a 1972 4x4 frame - keeping the title from the 72 in case there issues down the road. It’s about a 2 day job to remove entire body. I’m also adding a 12 valve Cummins and Dana 60 front Dana 70 rear to the build. Hoping to be complete this summer....

[FLYNAVY30]

So going back to the topic of transfer case......

My Gearstar stg 2 4L65E is plenty strong for my purposes.... would it make more sense to change the output shaft in order to accommodate a married np205, or leave it as she sits and include a second crossmemeber to mount a divorced t-case?

[mcmlxix]

Originally Posted by FLYNAVY30

So going back to the topic of transfer case......

My Gearstar stg 2 4L65E is plenty strong for my purposes.... would it make more sense to change the output shaft in order to accommodate a married np205, or leave it as she sits and include a second crossmemeber to mount a divorced t-case?

I will reiterate my vote for a divorced transfer case for simplicity of install without having to replace existing drivetrain components (transmission.)

info on the NP205 …
https://www.offroaddesign.com/tech/o...al-information

front axle install/swap...
https://diy4x.com/product.php?productid=17716

[FLYNAVY30]

Thanks for the link, good info!

[FLYNAVY30]

Going further down the rabbit hole...

If you use the DIY4x kit to fit the 52" leaf spring in the front, how do you determine what rate coil to use in the rear in order to provide a decent ride quality? Obviously you can get different spring heights to adjust the rear ride height to match the front, but I would also want to ensure good ride quality and handling (for a truck).

[Madkidd007]

Originally Posted by Madkidd007

Well I’m that case need another chassis because of the rear coil spring setup. I’ve flipped the axle under the trailing arms but just that alone gives you about 6.5” of lift from 2wd height so for stock height 4wd that’s too much. What randy said is something to keep in mind about a truck chassis, I may be wrong but I think only 72 the rear bumper bolted directly to the frame and the older models used brackets

To answer your last question. The spring you have now will ride the same, just sits higher from repositioning the axle

[mcmlxix]

Originally Posted by FLYNAVY30

Going further down the rabbit hole...

If you use the DIY4x kit to fit the 52" leaf spring in the front, how do you determine what rate coil to use in the rear in order to provide a decent ride quality? Obviously you can get different spring heights to adjust the rear ride height to match the front, but I would also want to ensure good ride quality and handling (for a truck).

The Moog brand replacement gives spring rates on the CarID website. You can use this as a base line to determine a suitable taller replacement.

https://www.carid.com/moog/problem-s...l#applications

[HO455]

Here is a little more information on th e DIY4X4 front spring kit.

http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=805048

[FLYNAVY30]

Originally Posted by HO455

Here is a little more information on th e DIY4X4 front spring kit.

http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=805048

good read, thanks!

[HO455]

K model Burban listed here. It's a ways away from you, but.....

https://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/p...102423305.html

[FLYNAVY30]

interesting cab conversion on the Burban chassis. Unfortunately, its going to be at least another year before I can start shopping for a chassis as I just got extended in my current orders....which means I'm stuck in my single car garage/condo for the time being.

[HO455]

Sorry to hear of the delay. HOA's are bad enough let alone in a Navy town. Hard to even change a flat tire without hassle.

[FLYNAVY30]

Originally Posted by HO455

Sorry to hear of the delay. HOA's are bad enough let alone in a Navy town. Hard to even change a flat tire without hassle.

You're preaching to the choir! My stack of citations for "Excessive Automotive Maintenance" is impressive. The thing that really pisses me off is that my garage faces an alley, and I am extremely particular about not leaving ANYTHING in the driveway over night.....or sitting out while I am not working on it.

Fortunately our place in Texas has a 1000 sq ft garage and no HOA!!

[HO455]

I spent close to five years in Norfolk. I know the pain. There used to be a pretty good shop on base I would rent to do stuff (like rebuild the motor in my GTO). But they tended to frown on longer term projects. There even was a body shop with a paint booth. I painted the goat twice (there was a learning curve).
I suppose these days all that is gone.

[FLYNAVY30]

Originally Posted by HO455

I spent close to five years in Norfolk. I know the pain. There used to be a pretty good shop on base I would rent to do stuff (like rebuild the motor in my GTO). But they tended to frown on longer term projects. There even was a body shop with a paint booth. I painted the goat twice (there was a learning curve).
I suppose these days all that is gone.

Oh yea, there's a shop on base still, but its only useful for changing oil, or projects you know will be done in a couple hours.

[A1971Blazer]

Originally Posted by FLYNAVY30

Yes, not interested in a monster ride height or tires....essentially looking at stock ride height K20 with 33" tires.

What would the advantages/disadvantages of leaving the rear trailing arm set up while converting the front to leaf springs be as far as ride quality and handling....both on and off road?

I have all the parts to convert my '67 2WD (69 frame) to 4WD..it does have the trailing arm and coils in the rear...I'm curious about the ORD front coil-over conversion going on to the 2WD chassis...I'm pretty sure the frames are really close to the same from the front cab mount forward...except of course for the leaf spring mounts
I have a '71Blazer frame to compare
I think a coil front and rear would be a dandy combination.....I'm no longer into hard core off roading...but this would be cool 4WD driver...?