big block driveline???

[Longhorn Man]

that's what all the 2 piece shafts I've had look like (except the high dollar C-bearing there)
Slip yoke up front, and a slip shaft in the middle too.
My 70 3/4 ton longhorn (350/TH350)
My 70 one ton Longhorn (350/TH nfc)
My 3/4 ton burb (402/TH400)
The 1/2 ton parts burb I left in Washington (402/TH400)
The 72 3/4 ton Longhorn I had for parts (307/TH350)

[70rs/ss]

I had a two piece with a bolt on yoke in the trans and a slip in the center, and a 4X with a bolt on yoke and a slip in the front of my 1 piece shaft with a splined yoke. If the 2-piece is need (inland empire would be a great place to ask) then a splined yoke with a bolt on u-joint can be used upfront as well as th espines in the center. I guess I was thinking two splined slip yokes in one shaft was not a good idea? I was thinking the center slip yoke was the only one needed?

[Longhorn Man]

when you have the slip yoke up front, and a carrier bearing that is bolted down, the yoke doesn't slip at all. If it does, it is tweaking the carrier bearing.
So it's kinda stupid. But they built a LOT of them like so.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

when you have the slip yoke up front, and a carrier bearing that is bolted down, the yoke doesn't slip at all. If it does, it is tweaking the carrier bearing.
So it's kinda stupid. But they built a LOT of them like so.

That's how my 69 Burb came from the factory, .

[lyrikz]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

That's how my 69 Burb came from the factory, .

Well, the driveline thats in there now is a one piece with the slip yoke at the transmission end. It is literally 1-2 inches to short to mate to the th400 that i am putting in and the th400 doesnt have a slip on it... Thats my only problem. Just getting a slip yoke on it somewhere....

[Luvlegs]

Please excuse the jump on your thread...
I have a 454w/turbo 400 from a 73 elky SS -
Q: Would the vehicle have been considered a car or truck when it comes to the type of yoke? For some reason, I picked up a 400 slip yoke but have never checked the tranny to see if it's a bolt or slip.

[70rs/ss]

Originally Posted by lyrikz

Well, the driveline thats in there now is a one piece with the slip yoke at the transmission end. It is literally 1-2 inches to short to mate to the th400 that i am putting in and the th400 doesnt have a slip on it... Thats my only problem. Just getting a slip yoke on it somewhere....

As far as a slip yoke for a TH400, Summit has them new and I am sure a board member may sell you a used one as well. The yoke on there now will come out, once you remove the bolt that is in the center of the yoke, unbolt it and the yoke pulls out, then the slip goes right in. I believe you can just have a shaft made from your too short shaft (they'd cut the tube out and replace with a new tube, then you just unbolt the yoke on there now and slide the slip in 400 yoke and you are good to go, the only reason we got into a 2-piece shaft is because of the air-bags. I am sure if you give Inland-Empire a call they'll be able to tell you what might be best a 1 or 2 piece shaft, or any reputable driveline shop local to you as well.





As for the 400 in the Elky, I'd guess it is a slip but no guarrentees?

[lyrikz]

Originally Posted by 70rs/ss

As far as a slip yoke for a TH400, Summit has them new and I am sure a board member may sell you a used one as well. The yoke on there now will come out, once you remove the bolt that is in the center of the yoke, unbolt it and the yoke pulls out, then the slip goes right in. I believe you can just have a shaft made from your too short shaft (they'd cut the tube out and replace with a new tube, then you just unbolt the yoke on there now and slide the slip in 400 yoke and you are good to go, the only reason we got into a 2-piece shaft is because of the air-bags. I am sure if you give Inland-Empire a call they'll be able to tell you what might be best a 1 or 2 piece shaft, or any reputable driveline shop local to you as well.





As for the 400 in the Elky, I'd guess it is a slip but no guarrentees?

IM not to worried about the bag portion of it.. Im going to do the measurements when the vehicle is at the ride height. Only time i will go lower then that is when im parked at a show, not driving...

I will search for that yoke right now.... BRB with a link.

[brad_man_72]

local driveline shop should have a yolk or anby other parts you may need, and you may be suprised that they can be cheaper than jegs.
3 measurements from (tailshaft) to center of u-joint on the rear end ride height aired up and aired out.
let the shop know your intentions (bags)
i work at a pretty reputable driveline shop, any info you can give them helps.
if youre only airing out at a show, you will still be able to hear everybody giggle when your driveshaft falls out because it is too short.

[lyrikz]

Originally Posted by 70rs/ss

As far as a slip yoke for a TH400, Summit has them new and I am sure a board member may sell you a used one as well. The yoke on there now will come out, once you remove the bolt that is in the center of the yoke, unbolt it and the yoke pulls out, then the slip goes right in. I believe you can just have a shaft made from your too short shaft (they'd cut the tube out and replace with a new tube, then you just unbolt the yoke on there now and slide the slip in 400 yoke and you are good to go, the only reason we got into a 2-piece shaft is because of the air-bags. I am sure if you give Inland-Empire a call they'll be able to tell you what might be best a 1 or 2 piece shaft, or any reputable driveline shop local to you as well.





As for the 400 in the Elky, I'd guess it is a slip but no guarrentees?

Ok, so i found two. This one here is what mine looks like, but obv. doesnt slide out.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku


then there is this one, beefier, different design and less money. Which way should i go here??
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

Thanks again for the advice.

[lyrikz]

Originally Posted by brad_man_72

local driveline shop should have a yolk or anby other parts you may need, and you may be suprised that they can be cheaper than jegs.
3 measurements from (tailshaft) to center of u-joint on the rear end ride height aired up and aired out.
let the shop know your intentions (bags)
i work at a pretty reputable driveline shop, any info you can give them helps.
if youre only airing out at a show, you will still be able to hear everybody giggle when your driveshaft falls out because it is too short.

It really have THAT much movement in it? Dang....

[70rs/ss]

Originally Posted by lyrikz

then there is this one, beefier, different design and less money. Which way should i go here??
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

Thanks again for the advice.

If you are going with a one piece DS then this slip one is what you want/need, but you need to verify with a DS shop that a one piece can be both long enough at drop and short enough no to pogo the DS into the rear a ride height. I think the other option here would be a slip joint/with splined shaft and splined male hole on a bolt on U-joint (usees the bolt on yoke you have, bolts U-joint to the yoke, then there is a slip fitting that the yoke slides on) I have one on my 4X4 as the front U-jount bolts to the transfer case and the slip joint is on the rear of the yoke. It'll allow a one piece shaft and the slip joint on these is pretty long to allow for articulation in a 4X but would be ideal for your lowering application too?? I am not driveline guy but it makes sense to me, if it isn't possible then, call the DS shop or get some measurements and see if the member here that works at a shop can help you out?

[Hart_Rod]

There's less than 1/2" movement from full up to full down on mine (factory 2 piece driveshaft). I'm not sure what that would translate to on a one piece shaft.

[lyrikz]

Originally Posted by 70rs/ss

If you are going with a one piece DS then this slip one is what you want/need, but you need to verify with a DS shop that a one piece can be both long enough at drop and short enough no to pogo the DS into the rear a ride height. I think the other option here would be a slip joint/with splined shaft and splined male hole on a bolt on U-joint (usees the bolt on yoke you have, bolts U-joint to the yoke, then there is a slip fitting that the yoke slides on) I have one on my 4X4 as the front U-jount bolts to the transfer case and the slip joint is on the rear of the yoke. It'll allow a one piece shaft and the slip joint on these is pretty long to allow for articulation in a 4X but would be ideal for your lowering application too?? I am not driveline guy but it makes sense to me, if it isn't possible then, call the DS shop or get some measurements and see if the member here that works at a shop can help you out?

Calling driveline guys now. Just out of curiousity.. What does DS mean???

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by lyrikz

Calling driveline guys now. Just out of curiousity.. What does DS mean???

If someone uses it to address me, it usually stands for dumbs&*t, . But I'm pretty sure 70RS/SS was using shorthand for driveshaft.

[lyrikz]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

If someone uses it to address me, it usually stands for dumbs&*t, . But I'm pretty sure 70RS/SS was using shorthand for driveshaft.

ahahaha.. NIce... i couldnt figure it out......

[lyrikz]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

If someone uses it to address me, it usually stands for dumbs&*t, . But I'm pretty sure 70RS/SS was using shorthand for driveshaft.

Called the DS shop and he wants me to bring in my driveline and the end of the th400 yoke. THen he can give me what i need, then measure at ride height and go from there...

Cheapest route is to do that one piece, and since mine is really only about 2 inches short, it shouldnt be to bad..

He asked if i was going to do any towing or racing... I said i might take it to the track once or twice (5 times). What does towing have to do with the driveline?

[Longhorn Man]

added weight means pressing the throttle harrder and more torque going to the rear end. Needs a HD shaft.

[70rs/ss]

Originally Posted by lyrikz

Called the DS shop and he wants me to bring in my driveline and the end of the th400 yoke. THen he can give me what i need, then measure at ride height and go from there...

Cheapest route is to do that one piece, and since mine is really only about 2 inches short, it shouldnt be to bad..
He asked if i was going to do any towing or racing... I said i might take it to the track once or twice (5 times). What does towing have to do with the driveline?

I don't know about that, 2" is a lot when we are talking about a DS (drive shaft, sorry about the shorthand!) The only way it could work is if the new yoke and U-joint eat up some of the distance. The DS guy will be able to tell you right away with the measurements he asked for. It is easier to start long and cut that it is to be short, cause they'll have to cut the whole tube off and replace. (for you dirty minder's out there I am talking about "DRIVE" shafts, and only "DRIVE" shafts, all though a longer shaft is better than a shorter one, again "DRIVE" shaft!)

BTW racing or towing will need a beefier tube, OE ones like to twist into pretzels if twisted too hard or too fast.

[brad_man_72]

a longer shaft at a high speed can turn into a jump rope (larger tube thinner material needed) why alot of oems are switching to huge aluminum shafts.

[lyrikz]

Originally Posted by brad_man_72

a longer shaft at a high speed can turn into a jump rope (larger tube thinner material needed) why alot of oems are switching to huge aluminum shafts.

Here is my one piece, how close it gets to my th400.... The yoke on the end of the driveline isnt the right one, and i removed my yoke off my th400.

So im taking my driveline and old yoke to the DS shop and will have some more info im sure.


Right at the end you can see where the actual yoke is, it needs to move up a few inches. I dont know how bad thats going to affect anything...We will see.

[70rs/ss]

Keep us posted as I am sure a lot of guys will be using bags in the future and will need to know approx hom much movement from full up to full out. As well as the 400 bolt on yoke vs the slip.

[lyrikz]

Originally Posted by 70rs/ss

Keep us posted as I am sure a lot of guys will be using bags in the future and will need to know approx hom much movement from full up to full out. As well as the 400 bolt on yoke vs the slip.

Ok, heres the deal. You were right about a portion of it. You cant use the slip yoke at the transmission end because thats where you want ALL of those splines connected. You want the bolt in one. Less likely to cram anything by going to high or low. The movement from full rise to full lower is about an inch and a half....


What they are going to do is use the bolt on yoke, new joints, and they are putting a snub nose spline on the end of my driveshaft. Basically what is used on 4X4's (lilke you said). When measuring they want you to measure from the flat surface on the yoke where bolts go to hold the ujoints in, to flat surface on the other yoke....

So, on to the price. to do this, shorten my driveshaft, add the snubnose, one new ujoint, its 450 bucks out the door.. That seems like ALOt, so im going to call around a bit....

[BB72CHEVKT]

Check it out seems high. I had a one piece done for $175 w/o the yoke issues.

[70rs/ss]

Originally Posted by lyrikz

Ok, heres the deal. You were right about a portion of it. You cant use the slip yoke at the transmission end because thats where you want ALL of those splines connected. You want the bolt in one. Less likely to cram anything by going to high or low. The movement from full rise to full lower is about an inch and a half....

What they are going to do is use the bolt on yoke, new joints, and they are putting a snub nose spline on the end of my driveshaft. Basically what is used on 4X4's (lilke you said). When measuring they want you to measure from the flat surface on the yoke where bolts go to hold the ujoints in, to flat surface on the other yoke....


I wondered if they would put a slip joint type thing in there (4X4 style for lack of knowing the "correct term")


So, on to the price. to do this, shorten my driveshaft, add the snubnose, one new ujoint, its 450 bucks out the door.. That seems like ALOt, so im going to call around a bit....

Give inland empire a call from the link posted above, I think a new one could be made for kind of !!! Although those slip joints (4X4 type again) are spendy?? I'd give them a call and see. I know of a guy in Chino Valley, AZ that builds shafts for all kinds of racers all over the country. I found the place while living in Prescott, AZ, as he was the only Driveline place within a few hundred miles, so I go there hoping it is not a dump. Low and behold, it is a Diamond in th sticks. Most of the offroad desert racers (CORR, Baha, etc, etc) have/currently use him as well as NASCAR local series racers, etc. Chino VaLLey is a nice quiet community in the middle of nowhere (If you are from there, sorry it is rural AZ for sure!). I can get you in touch with him, he is good (his machines, balancing and skills are second to none and the prices weren't bad at all. This is kind of extreme but I know the quality is good, prices are too and he ships, but I'd guess inland empire or a good local shop should be able to get it done as well.