04-16-2004, 03:26 PM | #26 | |
computer illiterate
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Location: Des Moines, IA
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Quote:
how low do they hang?
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04-16-2004, 06:38 PM | #27 |
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i agree, my headers cool down a whole lot quicker than my manifolds.
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71 C10 SWB BLACK AND WHITE 350 CRATE TH350 ENJOY LIFE |
04-16-2004, 10:07 PM | #28 | |
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04-16-2004, 10:32 PM | #29 |
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Location: Marysville, WA
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By not running headers your costing yourself 25 hp and roughly 30ft/lbs of torque and probably a few mpg.
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1971 gmc 3/4 ton, 350, t350 |
04-16-2004, 10:39 PM | #30 |
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Must be true, I haven't burned a single gallon in three years.
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04-16-2004, 11:41 PM | #31 | |
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Location: Center City, MN, USA
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Quote:
He said the best way to go would be to set up a situation on a dyno and keep working DOWN in pipe diameter as the exhaust gas moves away from the engine to keep the velocity of the exhaust charge up. Since 99.9997% of us can't afford a dyno set up in a fully controlled environment we're better off WITHOUT headers. If you are going to get the stupid things get the SMALLEST diameter pipe and wrap the crap out of it. Remember - the manufacturers and magazines that sell headers tell you they increase power because they want you to buy their product. The guy I get my information from has rebuilt more engines than most of us have seen. And yes thats a lot of engines. Plus from a practical stand point you can't get by the fact that headers are simply a pain in the @ss.
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'70 cab, '71 chassis, 383, TH350, NP205. '71 Malibu convertible '72 Malibu hard top Center City, MN |
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04-17-2004, 10:01 AM | #32 |
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Location: Ohio
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rpm
At what RPM are you gaining that horsepower? 4000+?
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04-18-2004, 06:00 PM | #33 |
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Location: Medicine Hat,AB, Canada
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I've used Hooker super comps for my Burb for almost four years daily driving. I've never had a leak. My starter does overheat when I'm towing the trailer on really hot days. My brother-in-law has had his on for six years, same brand, never any leaks. I don't have a heat shield on the starter and the headers are quite close. No problems in normal use. Just my experience, Michael.
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04-18-2004, 09:32 PM | #34 |
Not the nightly winner
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Location: CHARLEMONT MA.USA
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anybody got a part no. for some shorty headers?
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72C10SWB BLUE 350/350 86K10LWB BLUE 5.7 700r4 7.5' fisher plow 93S10XCAB4X4 BLUE 4.3 4L60e 69gmc c10 v8 3 on the tree yellow 72k10 swb 350 3 on the tree green 86k15 swb5.0L 4spd brown |
04-18-2004, 09:58 PM | #35 |
GOT JACK???
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 122
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late to the game, but i'll throw in 2 cents
I prefer stock manifolds for most applications. they do not suffer from the rust through after a few years. maniflods also have a better sealing system to the pipes. also, i have never known manifold bolts to loosen up on a regular basis. ground clearance is rarely an issue on trucks, but for the guys running lowered trucks, this could be a concern.
However, i have noticed the rust through problems are limited to vehicles that do a lot of sitting. i have installed headers on cars that never sat parked for more than 24 hours at a shot, and never had rust problems. but if they sit, they rust. (mind you i live in NJ, plenty of salt air and salty winters). Also, i do agree with the quality of the header dictates the problems you will have. cheap headers are nothing but a PITA. you have to spend the money and invest in good pipes, or they will be a nightmare. Preformance wise, headers are golden. as for wrap, under hood heat, etc. everything has its ups and downs. under hood heat is also only an issue when you're standing still or going slow. and if under hood heat was such an issue, why aren't more people relocating radiators to keep the engine bay cooler? besides, how hot is it under the hoods with air rushing through, over and under it at 60 mph? just doesn't seem like much of an issue. I think if you're doing a mild or stock set up, go cast. if you're building for power, don't forget the headers! ;D
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