04-15-2004, 07:22 PM | #1 |
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headers vs. manifolds
Just recently installed a rebuilt 350 and my brother had some headers that he gave me for free. When I went down to my local muffler shop to finish the exhaust he told me that I should throw the headers in the garbage. He told me I would have nothing but trouble with them and the stock ramshorn manifolds were just as good. The headers are about 2" from the starter. Will this be close enough to damage the starter. Does anyone have ideas on this? Any info is appreciated
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04-15-2004, 07:33 PM | #2 |
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Ramhorns don't develop leaks as easly but flow poorly. Header flow much more effeciently and keep the under hood temp lower.
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04-15-2004, 07:35 PM | #3 |
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I run headers on everything I own, no problems.
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04-15-2004, 07:42 PM | #4 |
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How does one find out the type of headers to use that will fit into the engine bay without causing any problems.
I don't even know what my truck would sound like if I were to put glasspacks or some other sound modifier on it. It's a 283 with 3 on the tree . Soon (maybe) to be four on the floor.
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1948 Chevy Aerosedan GONE! I think. 1984 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham Coupe WANTED 1967 IMPALA 1967 CST C10 Long Bed with a 283 Last edited by Warbones; 04-15-2004 at 07:46 PM. |
04-15-2004, 07:52 PM | #5 |
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Get some Hooker Headers from Summit Racing. They make a pair specifically for our year trucks running small block Chevys. They are ceramic coated and fit perfect!!
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04-15-2004, 07:53 PM | #6 |
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Here's a pic, no clearance issues whatsoever.
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04-15-2004, 10:08 PM | #7 |
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ramhorns are my choice ypu would probably never know the one from the other except the leaks from headers. I took the time to find ramhorns. power is a non issue on the street anyways.
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04-15-2004, 10:39 PM | #8 |
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if your worried about the starter you can put a heat shield in between..
I have a BBC, and the starters are known to "Heat soak" where the starter gets hot, the oem setup I had included a small sheetmetal shield to defect heat from the exhaust. headers = better exhaust scavenge = more power (assuming the right headers for the application/rpm)
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04-16-2004, 12:45 AM | #9 |
its all about the +6 inches
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If you get quality headers, and good gaskets, you will NEVER have leaks. pereod.
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04-16-2004, 12:50 AM | #10 |
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My vote is for the cast iron every time! Headers burn and hurt! they always leak, sooner or later.
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04-16-2004, 02:57 AM | #11 |
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I thought headers raised under hood temp vs. ramhorns...???
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04-16-2004, 07:40 AM | #12 |
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I vote for manifolds especially if you truck is a daily driver. Headers are for your toys and race cars in my opinion.
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04-16-2004, 08:16 AM | #13 |
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My engine guy says if you insist on headers you should wrap them real good. He said something about too much heat gets out through the headers if they aren't wrapped. Unwrapped headers HURT your performance and mileage.
I wasn't paying much attention other than to realize that they sounded like WAY more work than they were worth. My personal observation is that everybody I know with headers is always messing around with them. Everybody with stock exhaust manifolds doesn't have to mess with them.
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04-16-2004, 08:20 AM | #14 | |
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04-16-2004, 10:09 AM | #15 | |
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If you're looking for drivability, spend the money on an HEI and put in the rams horns. You can always get the corvette version which flow better if you're insistent about HP gains. BTW, I have nothing against trucks with headers if you choose to go that way. My opinion is based on weighing pros and cons for a nonbuilt small block, that and the fact I prefer the factory setup under the hood.
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04-16-2004, 10:23 AM | #16 |
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Here's a stocker with rams horns and HEI (oh no, not another chevy orange small block ). Boring
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Currently on or near the homestead: 67 Chevy SWB 2WD stepside 350/3 on tree (Pat's) 67 GMC SWB 2WD Fleet 402/auto (Brian's under construction) 67 Chevy 3/4 ton 2WD 402/auto (Business Hauler) 67 Chevy 1 ton dually 2WD 396/4 speed (Former business hauler, Needs TLC) 68 Chevy 1/2 ton Suburban 2WD 250 six/3 on tree (Brian's Needs TLC) 70 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD 350/4 speed (Pat's - Disguised as a 68 GMC) 71 Chevy SWB stepside (Crushed by tree - parts donor) 72 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD (Parts donor) 72 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD Suburban (Parts Donor) 72 GMC 3/4 ton 4WD 292 six/4 speed (Mine - Disguised as a 67 GMC) 81 GMC 4WD Dually Dump Body 350/4 speed (Business Hauler) 82 Camaro Z/28 355/Super T-10 (Pat's toy) 93 Caprice 9C1 (Brian's Cop Car) 02 Toyota Camry (Reliable but a souless steel and plastic hulk) 2011 2SS RS Camaro M6 Factory Hurst Shifter Maybe I need to sell some of this crap Yet another Bozo with a sawz-all |
04-16-2004, 10:58 AM | #17 |
its all about the +6 inches
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An engine guy told you to wrap street headers?
If you do that, they will only last a couple years. The heat will destroy the headers. |
04-16-2004, 11:14 AM | #18 |
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I think I agree on that. I wrap my race car's headers, but not any street ones. I'd think it would just trap all the moisture and salt (in the rust belt) becoming a rust accelerator.....
Kinda like those plastic gas tank protectors that used to be on my 85 C20.....that is until both tanks started leaking...lol |
04-16-2004, 11:15 AM | #19 |
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Would you guys recommend a heat shield for the starter??
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04-16-2004, 11:25 AM | #20 |
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Yes Dubie.....Summit sells a wrap for about 30 bucks that can be reused and help on my tie straps. I havent put a starter on since I went to it.
And to those that think headers are a pain. I never have bolts come loose and I dont ever have any leaks. Wrapping headers will trap moisture and cause them to rust. |
04-16-2004, 01:16 PM | #21 | |
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04-16-2004, 01:28 PM | #22 | |||
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Quote:
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Currently on or near the homestead: 67 Chevy SWB 2WD stepside 350/3 on tree (Pat's) 67 GMC SWB 2WD Fleet 402/auto (Brian's under construction) 67 Chevy 3/4 ton 2WD 402/auto (Business Hauler) 67 Chevy 1 ton dually 2WD 396/4 speed (Former business hauler, Needs TLC) 68 Chevy 1/2 ton Suburban 2WD 250 six/3 on tree (Brian's Needs TLC) 70 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD 350/4 speed (Pat's - Disguised as a 68 GMC) 71 Chevy SWB stepside (Crushed by tree - parts donor) 72 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD (Parts donor) 72 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD Suburban (Parts Donor) 72 GMC 3/4 ton 4WD 292 six/4 speed (Mine - Disguised as a 67 GMC) 81 GMC 4WD Dually Dump Body 350/4 speed (Business Hauler) 82 Camaro Z/28 355/Super T-10 (Pat's toy) 93 Caprice 9C1 (Brian's Cop Car) 02 Toyota Camry (Reliable but a souless steel and plastic hulk) 2011 2SS RS Camaro M6 Factory Hurst Shifter Maybe I need to sell some of this crap Yet another Bozo with a sawz-all |
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04-16-2004, 01:36 PM | #23 |
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I guess I was referring to operating temperature, not how long the manifolds/headers stay hot after shutting the motor off...
I thought it was generally accepted that a header's ability to conduct/dissipate heat would allow that heat to be released into the engine compartment more readily than with stock manifolds... feel free to educate me on this, learn something new every day...
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'72 short step, 350, 700R4, tilt, ps, pdb, a/c, lowered coils, etc., other work in progress... San Diego, CA 72 Stepside Project Last edited by bigvinnie; 04-16-2004 at 02:08 PM. |
04-16-2004, 02:36 PM | #24 |
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I'm late jumpin in, but I'd like you guys that use headers to be specific on what brand and models you're running and the cost of the headers. I've never had good expereince with headers, but I've also never paid $300 for a set.
IMHO, rams horns are the way to go, but I don't like wrenchin on my own stuff. Steve
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04-16-2004, 02:54 PM | #25 | |
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And yes I am saying that headers will keep the engine compartment hotter with the engine shut off. It is especially noticable in the summer time going from stop to stop. |
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