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Old 01-23-2005, 05:11 PM   #26
79Silv4x4
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[QUOTE=ocbaud]with my luck i probably blew a head gasket!!
QUOTE]

That's what it sounds like to me.
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Old 01-23-2005, 06:56 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ocbaud

my friend bought a 96' BMW 328is the other day. i like it a lot. i think i might sell my truck and buy something like his car......
Don't be Rice is what for dinner
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Old 01-23-2005, 07:08 PM   #28
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Have you even pulled the spark plugs yet to check them?
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Old 01-23-2005, 07:16 PM   #29
ocbaud
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MylilBowTie
Have you even pulled the spark plugs yet to check them?
the last time i did they all looked fine
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Old 01-23-2005, 07:21 PM   #30
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n I had a head gasket leak I had to remove the spark plug to even try to start it. That let the piston push all the coolant out of the cylinder, then it would start. Just a little bit of hydro lock. It kept acting like it was low battery.
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Old 01-23-2005, 07:35 PM   #31
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Eric, I think you mentioned the rad cap is several years old too? Could be it's letting the hot coolant overflow into the recovery tank and giving off that distinctive antifreeze smell and then cooling down and drawing it back into the rad. This is how it's designed to work but with a weak rad cap it can do it more than usuall. New rad cap is several bucks.
Also I had a bone stock '85 truck with a 305 that as long as it had a 165* stat in it the gauge read steadily and normallly. After putting in a 195* stat for the winter the gauge would climb to extremely hot sitting there idling in 25* outside temps. The gauge would go down some and creep back up. I pulled and replaced that stat with another and got the same results. The engine was not hot but the gauge showed it to be. I replaced the sending unit and the gauge and inspected the wires from the dash to the sending unit looking for a naked place and didn't find anything that could cause it to read hot like that. I finally reinstalled the 165* stat and the gauge settled down again. I didn't have as much in cab heat as I wanted but I felt better about the engine anyway. Just my experience.
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Old 01-23-2005, 11:30 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MylilBowTie
n I had a head gasket leak I had to remove the spark plug to even try to start it. That let the piston push all the coolant out of the cylinder, then it would start. Just a little bit of hydro lock. It kept acting like it was low battery.
my low battery is really the battery. if i have someone jump it, its all great.
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Old 01-23-2005, 11:44 PM   #33
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Sounds like a blown head gasket to me.
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Old 01-24-2005, 10:58 AM   #34
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No spring in the lower huh?
Put one in then...........it really needs one.
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Old 01-24-2005, 05:26 PM   #35
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This is my first post man I wish I had known about this board sooner,ocbaud I had the exact problem with my 82 C-10 350 it was the waterpump. It was a new pump so I replace everything cooling wise (rad, therm,hoses)before I replaced the pump . I thought It coundn't be the pump, it was brandnew!! And it was moving water!! Hasn't overheated in 2 years. Hope this helps, I took the front off my engine like 4 times before it was fixed.


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Old 01-24-2005, 06:40 PM   #36
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could be the water pump. it has been making a lot of noise recently and doesnt sound smooth while running
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Old 01-24-2005, 06:46 PM   #37
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So change it out hoser!!! I will post the pics of our 4x4's later!
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Old 01-24-2005, 06:48 PM   #38
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So change it out hoser!!! I will post the pics of our 4x4's later!
wanna buy me a new one??? i've got about $13 to my name right now
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Old 01-24-2005, 10:28 PM   #39
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well next time maybe you wont spend all that money on gas and beer! haha
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Old 01-24-2005, 10:59 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ocbaud
wanna buy me a new one??? i've got about $13 to my name right now
Sounds like you may wanta sell the truck!!
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Old 01-25-2005, 12:12 AM   #41
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Quote:
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well next time maybe you wont spend all that money on gas and beer! haha
but i'm in college
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Old 01-25-2005, 12:35 AM   #42
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Quote:
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i've got about $13 to my name right now
and you want to buy a BMW?
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Old 01-26-2005, 12:01 PM   #43
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Correct me if I'm wrong but the entire cooling system is pressurized. This is why a leak could potentially cause overheating regardless of the fluid level.

>>at any random time it will shoot up to 210 and then head over to 260 and >>stay there for maybe 10 seconds AT THE MOST

It's that wacko of a spike to 260 I'm curiose about. Wonder how much further the tstatcould register.
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Old 01-26-2005, 12:12 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plumbcut
and you want to buy a BMW?

BMW would cost more to maintain than a 86 chevy truck, same with VWs, ask me how I know and about the 240 dollars worth of timing belt parts I need to buy at 60k miles
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Old 01-26-2005, 12:28 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Destructo
BMW would cost more to maintain than a 86 chevy truck, same with VWs, ask me how I know and about the 240 dollars worth of timing belt parts I need to buy at 60k miles
Lol, I have to do my cluth. But since I have to pull the tranny to get to the chains, I will prob. do them while I am at it. Saving for parts is fun. Saving over twice as much for the labor is what is really gonna kill me.
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Old 01-26-2005, 12:30 PM   #46
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Yeah.............those German cars cost $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ to maintain.
The last one I had was $10,000 for a valve job and $12,000 for a tranny job.
Porsche 928S4...........GREAT GREAT GREAT car but
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Old 01-26-2005, 12:59 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ric83
Lol, I have to do my cluth. But since I have to pull the tranny to get to the chains, I will prob. do them while I am at it. Saving for parts is fun. Saving over twice as much for the labor is what is really gonna kill me.
I'm doing the timing belt myself, clutch is still fine since the engine and tranny only have 64k miles on them, but I was supposed to change the t-belt 4k miles ago lol.
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Old 01-26-2005, 02:52 PM   #48
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Yeah, I just hit 80k, but who knows how the previouse owner drove it. I have only driven it for 12k. I have been talking to my cousin to see if we can do the work. I like getting hands on. It feels a lot better knowing you did it. It is just a little intimidating w/ all the stuff under the hood. It is a lot diff than it does when I worked on my truck.
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Old 01-26-2005, 08:50 PM   #49
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W/O looking @ the truck this is just a wild guess, but I see 2 apparently separate issues causing lots of havoc.

Your having problems w/temp control & your batt keeps going dead? Hhmmm . . .... what controls temps? Lets see, radiator . ..... thermostat . .... coolant . ..... waterpump . .... fan. Wait, don't you have electric fans?

Is there any possibility the 2 issues are related? Your fans or fan control is on the skids & causing both the temp fluctuations & draining the batt when the trucks not running?

What are you using to turn your fans on? What temps?
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Old 01-26-2005, 09:11 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCOTI
W/O looking @ the truck this is just a wild guess, but I see 2 apparently separate issues causing lots of havoc.

Your having problems w/temp control & your batt keeps going dead? Hhmmm . . .... what controls temps? Lets see, radiator . ..... thermostat . .... coolant . ..... waterpump . .... fan. Wait, don't you have electric fans?

Is there any possibility the 2 issues are related? Your fans or fan control is on the skids & causing both the temp fluctuations & draining the batt when the trucks not running?

What are you using to turn your fans on? What temps?
a temp sender for them to come on automaticly and a manual switch. they come on at 200 and off at 180 or 185
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