overheating update - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

ocbaud · 01-21-2005, 01:46 AM

okay, i guess i forgot to mention this before, but the truck will not ever overheat while it is in park or idling. it will get up to temp, the tstat will open and the fans come on. it is only overheating while the vehicle is moving....

what could cause this??? transmission?
i figure....
the tranny is getting really hot, heating up the engine from the back to the front, and thats what causes the engine to overheat, and then the front and top of the engine heats up and finally the tstat opens up??

it makes sense to me....

ureckme · 01-21-2005, 03:05 AM

Lower rad hose is collapsing when engine starts to rev. It's happened to me. Matt

plumbcut · 01-21-2005, 03:07 AM

is your timing really advanced?

i dont think the trans could heat up enough to make the engine heat up... You got air bubbles in the cooling system? maybe you need to burp your coolant lines.. that would explain a spike in temp's at certain times, when the air bubbles are @ the sensor...

a lean air:fuel ratio and really advanced timing will make an engine run hot...

pc

Fatblock82 · 01-21-2005, 03:44 AM

Sounds crazy,but I'd bet your fans are causing the air to "dam up" in front of the radiator.Try turning the fans off while cruising at speed.I know it sounds nuts,but it happened to me.

ocbaud · 01-21-2005, 03:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by plumbcut

is your timing really advanced?

i dont think the trans could heat up enough to make the engine heat up... You got air bubbles in the cooling system? maybe you need to burp your coolant lines.. that would explain a spike in temp's at certain times, when the air bubbles are @ the sensor...

a lean air:fuel ratio and really advanced timing will make an engine run hot...

pc

11 degrees initial timing, about 35degrees total.

the fans have nothing to do with it. it didnt do this before i got my gears.

Prerunner1982 · 01-21-2005, 03:37 PM

eric, i tell ya what.. lets swap your engine/trans into my truck and see if it still happens..

btw.. what happend to the girl intrested in a job? she change her mind?

ocbaud · 01-21-2005, 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Prerunner1982

eric, i tell ya what.. lets swap your engine/trans into my truck and see if it still happens..

btw.. what happend to the girl intrested in a job? she change her mind?

come bring me the app. i havent had a vehicle to drive over there to pick it up for her.

Destructo · 01-22-2005, 01:13 AM

Have you checked the lower radiator hose yet? If not check it!

ocbaud · 01-22-2005, 06:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Destructo

Have you checked the lower radiator hose yet? If not check it!

how do i check it? it looks to be okay

MylilBowTie · 01-22-2005, 07:40 PM

I would replace it with the lower radiator hose with the spring inside, that prevents it from collapsing.

phantom dually · 01-22-2005, 11:39 PM

Looks can be very deceiving!! If you have not replaced the hoses in the last 3yrs or so i would do it!!

784X4GUY · 01-23-2005, 12:19 AM

Hey how do you guys burp the air outta the cooling system? Later Mike

alpha_male0203 · 01-23-2005, 12:41 AM

rock the truck thats what i do and it works! later shane

ocbaud · 01-23-2005, 12:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phantom dually

Looks can be very deceiving!! If you have not replaced the hoses in the last 3yrs or so i would do it!!

new upper and lower rad. hoses put on with the new engine last april. new heater hoses installed about a week ago

ureckme · 01-23-2005, 02:58 AM

Rev the engine while looking at the lower rad hose if it colapses its eather the spring in the hose or a pluged rad.

TIMSPEED · 01-23-2005, 06:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ureckme

Rev the engine while looking at the lower rad hose if it colapses its eather the spring in the hose or a pluged rad.

Or just a plug in the system somewhere, or else something else isn't right. At idle, it won't overheat, because it doesn't have enough timing to do it, but under load it would. It also could be, you're running too lean, but usually, running that lean would show as your headers glowing red.
Eric, do you think your block is bored more than .030 maybe? Maybe it's bored over like .080, and the cylinder walls are so thin, it's boiling your ****.

**Boog** · 01-23-2005, 09:56 AM

[good to know mine came with a 2 row and still has it in there.]

355 sbc,10:1CR, Holley aluminum heads, Lunati cam(235/240@.050 - .490" lift),full MSD ignition

Eric, you are trying to run that engine combo with lower gears using a 2 row radiator? Electric fans or not that 2 row ain't gonna cut it especially with even lower gears than before. And it was in the truck when you bought it in '01? I'm surprised it cooled it before the gear change. The 4 row is more for big block applications but the 3 row just might be what you need.
With the lower gears installed the engine is steadily running at higher rpms than before requiring a cooling system change. It cooled ok before the gear change and that's the only change made? The engine is building more heat than that 2 row rad can handle now at hightway speeds. There may also be some blockage in that rad making it worse.
I had a 2 row rad recored with 3 row for $125 for my 78. Since then I bought a brand new 3 row rad for my 85 for $150. They're not that bad. Shop around.

Mike76251 · 01-23-2005, 10:45 AM

Electric fans?
Gotta fan shroud on it?
That new lower rad. hose have the spring in it when you installed it?
Sometimes they don't come with a new spring......they want you to reuse the old one.

ocbaud · 01-23-2005, 02:23 PM

i spoke wrong, the radiator IS a 3 row.

when i changed the rearend out, i also changed the tstat because the old one was stuck open and always running really cool. i've changed it twice since then and it still over heats.

the elecctric fans worked fine before and shouldnt be giving me trouble now. they come with a built in shroud.

no, the block is bored .030 over for sure.

the lower hose doesnt have a spring in it, but i have revved it to about 5500 while watching it and it never moved.

Okay, let me put it this way. I'm driving about 70-75 on the highway, turning about 3500 rpms continually. the guage reads about 180-190. at any random time it will shoot up to 210 and then head over to 260 and stay there for maybe 10 seconds AT THE MOST. then it will drop back down steadily to about 180-190. the whole time it is rising, it smells like antifreeze.
the same thing happened one day while i was getting off the highway coming to a stop. so it doesnt just do it while its revving up.

but no matter what i do, i can let it idle for 30 minutes and rev it up in park and the thing will run perfect.

rolson1039 · 01-23-2005, 02:32 PM

ive got a real stupid idea but hey at this point maybe anything will help... Are you using the same brand of thermostat fromt he same supply house over and over when you change them... it could be possible they have a defective bunch of springs in them or something.... ive bought electronic ignition modules from a local parts guy three different KEM brand pieces and all three were bad it turned out to be adefective lot of them.. id try getting a genuine delco thermostat and get it at a totally different supply house... if thats the problem id go back and tell the guy you originally bought them from...
i know its a shot in the dark but hey strange things happen sometimes

toytruck · 01-23-2005, 02:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ocbaud

i spoke wrong, the radiator IS a 3 row.

when i changed the rearend out, i also changed the tstat because the old one was stuck open and always running really cool. i've changed it twice since then and it still over heats.

Either you got a bad one or its upside down. Put a new one on.

rolson1039 · 01-23-2005, 02:33 PM

also have ya flushed out the cooling system lately?? could be some crud in there ?? im just grasping at straws now but hey

ocbaud · 01-23-2005, 02:36 PM

the one that stuck open orignally came from o'reillys. i replaced it with a highflow 180 mr. gasket from jegs(the same one Ryan raves so much about). it overheated with it so i replaced it with another one from o'reillys and it did the same thing and is the one i have in there now.

so 2 tstats doing the same thing.

and no, i havent flushed the system lately.

hotrodhomi · 01-23-2005, 03:24 PM

Replaced it 3 times? I would guess that is not the problem. If you smell antifreeze you have a leak some place. Try looking at the sensor/ sending unit. It sounds like you could have more than one problem but maybe if the leak is fixed the problem will go away. If the sensor was faulty/ leaking you could have erroneous readings.

ocbaud · 01-23-2005, 03:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hotrodhomi

Replaced it 3 times? I would guess that is not the problem. If you smell antifreeze you have a leak some place. Try looking at the sensor/ sending unit. It sounds like you could have more than one problem but maybe if the leak is fixed the problem will go away. If the sensor was faulty/ leaking you could have erroneous readings.

the sensor is good. havent changed it since i put it in originally in april. its not leaking anywhere around it.

with my luck i probably blew a head gasket!!

edit. my truck wont start now because the battery is acting like its almost drained AGAIN.

my friend bought a 96' BMW 328is the other day. i like it a lot. i think i might sell my truck and buy something like his car......

01-21-2005, 01:46 AM	#1
ocbaud Garage Queen Material Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: USA Posts: 4,129	overheating update okay, i guess i forgot to mention this before, but the truck will not ever overheat while it is in park or idling. it will get up to temp, the tstat will open and the fans come on. it is only overheating while the vehicle is moving.... what could cause this??? transmission? i figure.... the tranny is getting really hot, heating up the engine from the back to the front, and thats what causes the engine to overheat, and then the front and top of the engine heats up and finally the tstat opens up?? it makes sense to me....

01-22-2005, 01:13 AM	#8
Destructo Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Lewisville, NC Posts: 1,836	Have you checked the lower radiator hose yet? If not check it! __________________ 1985 Scottsdale Shortbed 4x4 Stout 350 with some "upgrades"-700r4-33x12.5" Mud Tires, Warn 8274-50 winch. 2005 Chevrolet Colorado Regular Cab 2wd 4-banger, 5 speed, Street Pack with 3.73 axle.

01-22-2005, 07:40 PM	#10
MylilBowTie Right turn Clyde Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Cincinnati, Ohio Posts: 2,911	I would replace it with the lower radiator hose with the spring inside, that prevents it from collapsing. __________________ 1974 C25 LWB: 454 4bbl Carb / TH400 / 3.73 1992 Camaro RS 305 TBI

01-22-2005, 11:39 PM	#11
phantom dually Project92 SWB stepside Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Louisville KY Posts: 4,792	Looks can be very deceiving!! If you have not replaced the hoses in the last 3yrs or so i would do it!! __________________ 92 C1500 stepside 496 Stroker Competiton Engineering Ladder bars/QA1 coilovers. Dana 60 rear with 4.10 gear and posi. Bonspeed Palisade 20x12 in rear w/335/30/20 and 20x8.5 front w/245/40/20. 5/8 drop with Belltech springs/DJM spindles/drop shocks. WWS Progress thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=140448

01-23-2005, 12:19 AM	#12
784X4GUY Did someone say MUD? Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Pullman,WA Posts: 1,089	Hey how do you guys burp the air outta the cooling system? Later Mike __________________ Im in the market guys...so keep ya eyes peeled -------------------- Mini trucks are for guys who cant get it up!

01-21-2005, 03:05 AM	#2
ureckme ureckmefixit2@cox.net Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Mesa AZ. (Phoenix) Posts: 1,284	Lower rad hose is collapsing when engine starts to rev. It's happened to me. Matt

01-21-2005, 03:07 AM	#3
plumbcut california fill Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Sunny So-Cal Posts: 694	is your timing really advanced? i dont think the trans could heat up enough to make the engine heat up... You got air bubbles in the cooling system? maybe you need to burp your coolant lines.. that would explain a spike in temp's at certain times, when the air bubbles are @ the sensor... a lean air:fuel ratio and really advanced timing will make an engine run hot... pc

01-21-2005, 03:44 AM	#4
Fatblock82 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Posts: 11	Sounds crazy,but I'd bet your fans are causing the air to "dam up" in front of the radiator.Try turning the fans off while cruising at speed.I know it sounds nuts,but it happened to me.

01-21-2005, 03:37 PM	#6
Prerunner1982 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Edmond, OK Posts: 5,904	eric, i tell ya what.. lets swap your engine/trans into my truck and see if it still happens.. btw.. what happend to the girl intrested in a job? she change her mind?

01-23-2005, 12:41 AM	#13
alpha_male0203 95 extended cab sportside Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Clinton, Iowa western. Posts: 895	rock the truck thats what i do and it works! later shane __________________ 95 Chevy k 1500 00 Chevy Silverado 1500 07 cobalt Old ladies car]

01-23-2005, 02:58 AM	#15
ureckme ureckmefixit2@cox.net Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Mesa AZ. (Phoenix) Posts: 1,284	Rev the engine while looking at the lower rad hose if it colapses its eather the spring in the hose or a pluged rad.

01-23-2005, 09:56 AM	#17
Boog laying low Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Searcy, Ark. USA Posts: 13,535	[good to know mine came with a 2 row and still has it in there.] 355 sbc,10:1CR, Holley aluminum heads, Lunati cam(235/240@.050 - .490" lift),full MSD ignition Eric, you are trying to run that engine combo with lower gears using a 2 row radiator? Electric fans or not that 2 row ain't gonna cut it especially with even lower gears than before. And it was in the truck when you bought it in '01? I'm surprised it cooled it before the gear change. The 4 row is more for big block applications but the 3 row just might be what you need. With the lower gears installed the engine is steadily running at higher rpms than before requiring a cooling system change. It cooled ok before the gear change and that's the only change made? The engine is building more heat than that 2 row rad can handle now at hightway speeds. There may also be some blockage in that rad making it worse. I had a 2 row rad recored with 3 row for $125 for my 78. Since then I bought a brand new 3 row rad for my 85 for $150. They're not that bad. Shop around. __________________ Boog 69 Chevy stepside, 358/T350, 4.11 posi, 4.5/4 drop, rallys, poboy driver primer is finer 91 Chevy sportside, Tahoe, Yukon & GMC Crewcab All GM..'nuff said. I stand for the flag and kneel at the cross

01-23-2005, 10:45 AM	#18
Mike76251 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Posts: 2,499	Electric fans? Gotta fan shroud on it? That new lower rad. hose have the spring in it when you installed it? Sometimes they don't come with a new spring......they want you to reuse the old one.

01-23-2005, 02:23 PM	#19
ocbaud Garage Queen Material Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: USA Posts: 4,129	i spoke wrong, the radiator IS a 3 row. when i changed the rearend out, i also changed the tstat because the old one was stuck open and always running really cool. i've changed it twice since then and it still over heats. the elecctric fans worked fine before and shouldnt be giving me trouble now. they come with a built in shroud. no, the block is bored .030 over for sure. the lower hose doesnt have a spring in it, but i have revved it to about 5500 while watching it and it never moved. Okay, let me put it this way. I'm driving about 70-75 on the highway, turning about 3500 rpms continually. the guage reads about 180-190. at any random time it will shoot up to 210 and then head over to 260 and stay there for maybe 10 seconds AT THE MOST. then it will drop back down steadily to about 180-190. the whole time it is rising, it smells like antifreeze. the same thing happened one day while i was getting off the highway coming to a stop. so it doesnt just do it while its revving up. but no matter what i do, i can let it idle for 30 minutes and rev it up in park and the thing will run perfect.

01-23-2005, 02:32 PM	#20
rolson1039 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: NJ Posts: 404	ive got a real stupid idea but hey at this point maybe anything will help... Are you using the same brand of thermostat fromt he same supply house over and over when you change them... it could be possible they have a defective bunch of springs in them or something.... ive bought electronic ignition modules from a local parts guy three different KEM brand pieces and all three were bad it turned out to be adefective lot of them.. id try getting a genuine delco thermostat and get it at a totally different supply house... if thats the problem id go back and tell the guy you originally bought them from... i know its a shot in the dark but hey strange things happen sometimes __________________ so many trucks so little time!!!



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01-23-2005, 02:33 PM	#22
rolson1039 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: NJ Posts: 404	also have ya flushed out the cooling system lately?? could be some crud in there ?? im just grasping at straws now but hey __________________ so many trucks so little time!!!

01-23-2005, 02:36 PM	#23
ocbaud Garage Queen Material Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: USA Posts: 4,129	the one that stuck open orignally came from o'reillys. i replaced it with a highflow 180 mr. gasket from jegs(the same one Ryan raves so much about). it overheated with it so i replaced it with another one from o'reillys and it did the same thing and is the one i have in there now. so 2 tstats doing the same thing. and no, i havent flushed the system lately.

01-23-2005, 03:24 PM	#24
hotrodhomi Registered User Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Sacramento Posts: 3,737	Replaced it 3 times? I would guess that is not the problem. If you smell antifreeze you have a leak some place. Try looking at the sensor/ sending unit. It sounds like you could have more than one problem but maybe if the leak is fixed the problem will go away. If the sensor was faulty/ leaking you could have erroneous readings.

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