69 c10 starting problems - Page 2 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

**john** · 10-27-2006, 05:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ilovetara

Yes that may be. All I am doing is using a piece of wire and putting one end into the red and one in the purple (I think those colors) Does anyone know what other color of wire needs 12V??

You are just jumping the starter solenoid circuit with the purple wire so it will crank. You need another wire to the ign circuit for it to start. A jumper from batt to + side of coil will work to start it but it will be full 12V instead of resisted power. You need to jump the wire going to coil circuit. Pink possibly?

ghetto_superman · 10-27-2006, 05:05 PM

what they mean is- since you will have to get a new ignition with a new key anyway since you have no key for the current one, go ahead and get a hold of a new ignition switch (w/ key), leave the old one in the dash for the time being, and let the new one hang. the guys are right in saying that you need 12v going to 2 different terminals. so that is pry why you are not getting spark. you could 'hotwire' the 3 terminals, but its much safer to just get the new ignition switch now and do it right than risk melting your entire harness. ALSO, it would work to attach a wire straight from the battery to the coil, as that would bypass any switches, BUT IIRC even though old points systems 'start' on 12v, they inly 'run' on about 9.3v. (there are resistors somewhere in the harness between the ignition switch and the battery and the coil) SO if you 'run' your points system on a full 12v, then you will most likely burn up your coil. obviously, if your system is running on 9.3v, (its like that from the factory) then your engine isnt getting as much spark as it could be getting, and this is the reason why a lot of people eventually upgrade to HEI. (easy swap) HEI gets you the full 12v. hope this helps.

ghetto_superman · 10-27-2006, 05:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ilovetara

As far as the ignition in the dash. I have no key for it, sooo how would I possibly get the ignition apart and out??

i think the only way to do it involves muscle and brutality...

ilovetara · 10-27-2006, 06:31 PM

Okay well I am looking for an ignition with a key as we speak. In the meantime I will try to jump another wire to get it started.

ghetto_superman · 10-27-2006, 06:36 PM

good luck- you should get spark this way. just make sure to disconnect the wire from 'start' once it fires... otherwise the starter would keep going... and technically, the 'run' terminal doesnt get power until the key goes to 'run' from 'start'.. so just keep that in mind.. good luck, try not to fry stuff, and keep us posted!

ilovetara · 10-27-2006, 10:55 PM

Okay, purchased an ignition switch, but no cylinder lock and key. Plugged the ignition harness into the switch. Can use a screwdriver to turn the engine over. Same problem as before though. No start, cranks the same. In my testing, on the coil, which wire is + and which wire is - ? Is the yellow wire positive and the black negative. The yellow wire I believe goes to the starter and the black wire goes under the distributor where the points is wired. Is this wired right?

It seems when testing the coil there is 12v on the black wire. Is this right?

ilovetara · 10-27-2006, 11:08 PM

How about focussing on the points. Does anyone know how to properly adjust the point. I have the back pad on the hight point of the distributor center (under the rotor) From there, how much space should be in between the point arms?

GMCMAX · 10-27-2006, 11:27 PM

I think .019 between the point contacts, but just a thought today at work, the rotor does move when you crank the engine? (if not, maybe stripped distributor gear)

ilovetara · 10-28-2006, 12:22 AM

Yeah thought of that too, but ruled it out a the other day. The rotor does turn as the engine cranks.

Thanks for the gap spec!

**LockDoc** · 10-28-2006, 12:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ilovetara

As far as the ignition in the dash. I have no key for it, sooo how would I possibly get the ignition apart and out??

Did you read my post on page one and click on the link?......

LockDoc

jhow66 · 10-28-2006, 01:54 AM

Point gap is .016 for inline 6 (dwell-28 to 35)

ilovetara · 10-28-2006, 12:37 PM

Hey, LOCDOC, yes read your post, BUT still having trouble getting it out of the dash. I will have to find something stronger than a paper clip to put into the hole.

jhow66: thanks for your gap specs and dwell!

ilovetara · 10-28-2006, 08:26 PM

Well some progress. Replaced the coil. Had someone crank the engine over, there was a spark at the points. I tried to set the gap properly. Took spark plug out left it connected to wire, held it close to side of engine, and there was spark there as well.

Now, How about fuel. With the gas pedal pressed, I looked into the carb and no fuel was present. Maybe my fuel lines are clogged. Poured a tiny amount of fuel into the carb and no change. Used starting fluid again and it got closer to starting! BUT still no start

I believe the carb needs to be worked on but I think its still operational. Can anyone help me on details of fuel getting to the right place?

Thanks

Werewolf · 10-28-2006, 10:06 PM

Fuel pump's probably bad. Pull the line off the carb and have somebody crank the truck. Just be careful, as fuel will spray out of the line when the truck is being cranked. If there's no fuel coming through the line, the fuel pump is probably shot.

Could also be the fuel filter, but it's rare for one to get that dirty.

ghetto_superman · 10-28-2006, 10:41 PM

congrats on getting spark! now it sounds like what my truck was doing.. if i dumped gas in the carb or used starting fluid it would fire, but only run as long as the amount of fuel that i dumped in the carb.. SO i thought maybe my fuel pump was bad.. and only filters that my truck HAD are the inline one between the pump and the carb, and the inline one that is IN the carb. SO i undid the hose at the fuel filter (the one that goes down to the pump) and low and behold there was a PSSSSS!! of pressure that came out.. so that told me that one of the filters (or something in the carb) wasnt letting anything through. so just to double check that the pump was good i cranked it a few times and fuel spewed from the tube. ok sweet, the pump is still good. so then i re-attached the inline filter outside of the carb, and fuel pumped through there easily enough. then i took out the filter inside of the carb and for some crazy reason, low and behold, NOW MY CARB GETS FUEL!! so it runs fine now. i was lucky that i didnt have to figure out any crazy carb stuff... (im not very carb savvy..) that was just my scenario after i finally got my spark problems figured out. hopefully it will help you some.. basically i just singled out what the problems WEREN'T. and then youll eventually hget the right answer. !

ilovetara · 10-29-2006, 02:01 AM

Thanks guys, I will check the fuel pump tomorrow morning, or take the line off at the carb to see what happens.

Thanks again and I will post my happenings tomorrow.

ilovetara · 10-29-2006, 09:00 PM

Took the line off the carb and went to move it out of the way, well broke the line. Damn! Picked up a new pump and filter, but did not put them on yet because of the broken line between the pump and the carb. Where do I get a new line??

Werewolf · 10-29-2006, 10:36 PM

Just get a piece of rubber line with a couple of screw clamps. Or better yet, cut out a bit more line, and stick a new inline filter in there. Better filtering, and easier to change.

ilovetara · 10-31-2006, 09:29 AM

Hey thats a great idea! Thanks

krue · 10-31-2006, 09:49 AM

But if you need to buy a new line go to the parts store and get the appropriate size brake line with fittings and flares already on.

ilovetara · 01-27-2007, 08:02 PM

Ok some more details... Replaced the fuel pump, rebuilt the carburator. Have spark, fuel pump works, truck cranks over really good and tries to start but then no go. I did install the filter inside the carb, maybe I should take that out and see if fuel gets to the carb then. Installed a brand new starter, ignition switch and cylinder with key. Installed a external voltage regulator.

I don't think fuel is getting into the carb, is it okay to take out the tiny filter inside the carb? Also I do not have an inline fuel filter that I can see.

ilovetara · 01-27-2007, 08:03 PM

I have used some starting fluid and poured some gas into the carb, Was so close to it running. Maybe I have flooded the plugs now.

krue · 01-27-2007, 08:22 PM

Have you done anything with your timing?

ilovetara · 01-27-2007, 08:24 PM

I have gotten TDC. Also does the rotor need to point at the #1 on the engine or #1 on the cap?

krue · 01-27-2007, 08:38 PM

It really doesn't matter. If you have #1 @ TDC, where the rotor is pointing should be the wire going to #1 cylinder, then wire the firing order. This may not be "factory" but it will be right.

10-27-2006, 05:05 PM	#27
ghetto_superman Registered User Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Omaha, NE Posts: 1,982	Re: 69 c10 starting problems what they mean is- since you will have to get a new ignition with a new key anyway since you have no key for the current one, go ahead and get a hold of a new ignition switch (w/ key), leave the old one in the dash for the time being, and let the new one hang. the guys are right in saying that you need 12v going to 2 different terminals. so that is pry why you are not getting spark. you could 'hotwire' the 3 terminals, but its much safer to just get the new ignition switch now and do it right than risk melting your entire harness. ALSO, it would work to attach a wire straight from the battery to the coil, as that would bypass any switches, BUT IIRC even though old points systems 'start' on 12v, they inly 'run' on about 9.3v. (there are resistors somewhere in the harness between the ignition switch and the battery and the coil) SO if you 'run' your points system on a full 12v, then you will most likely burn up your coil. obviously, if your system is running on 9.3v, (its like that from the factory) then your engine isnt getting as much spark as it could be getting, and this is the reason why a lot of people eventually upgrade to HEI. (easy swap) HEI gets you the full 12v. hope this helps. Last edited by ghetto_superman; 10-27-2006 at 05:06 PM.

10-27-2006, 06:31 PM	#29
ilovetara My truck is in pieces! Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Abbotsford BC Canada Posts: 143	Re: 69 c10 starting problems Okay well I am looking for an ignition with a key as we speak. In the meantime I will try to jump another wire to get it started. __________________ 69 Chevy C10 Long Finally down to the frame! My Build Progress Pics

10-27-2006, 06:36 PM	#30
ghetto_superman Registered User Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Omaha, NE Posts: 1,982	Re: 69 c10 starting problems good luck- you should get spark this way. just make sure to disconnect the wire from 'start' once it fires... otherwise the starter would keep going... and technically, the 'run' terminal doesnt get power until the key goes to 'run' from 'start'.. so just keep that in mind.. good luck, try not to fry stuff, and keep us posted! Last edited by ghetto_superman; 10-27-2006 at 06:41 PM.

10-27-2006, 10:55 PM	#31
ilovetara My truck is in pieces! Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Abbotsford BC Canada Posts: 143	Re: 69 c10 starting problems Okay, purchased an ignition switch, but no cylinder lock and key. Plugged the ignition harness into the switch. Can use a screwdriver to turn the engine over. Same problem as before though. No start, cranks the same. In my testing, on the coil, which wire is + and which wire is - ? Is the yellow wire positive and the black negative. The yellow wire I believe goes to the starter and the black wire goes under the distributor where the points is wired. Is this wired right? It seems when testing the coil there is 12v on the black wire. Is this right? __________________ 69 Chevy C10 Long Finally down to the frame! My Build Progress Pics

10-27-2006, 11:08 PM	#32
ilovetara My truck is in pieces! Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Abbotsford BC Canada Posts: 143	Re: 69 c10 starting problems How about focussing on the points. Does anyone know how to properly adjust the point. I have the back pad on the hight point of the distributor center (under the rotor) From there, how much space should be in between the point arms? __________________ 69 Chevy C10 Long Finally down to the frame! My Build Progress Pics

10-27-2006, 11:27 PM	#33
GMCMAX Active Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Lower Mid-East Ca. Posts: 326	Re: 69 c10 starting problems I think .019 between the point contacts, but just a thought today at work, the rotor does move when you crank the engine? (if not, maybe stripped distributor gear) __________________ Never try to teach a pig to sing; it wastes your time and annoys the pig! Gets More Chicks My lugnuts require more torque than your honda makes! 68 GMC, 4X4 conversion w/73 k20 running gear and springs, 350 4spd, 4.10's, D44 powerlok front, 14BFF govlock rear, 33" tires, lifted 4".

10-28-2006, 12:22 AM	#34
ilovetara My truck is in pieces! Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Abbotsford BC Canada Posts: 143	Re: 69 c10 starting problems Yeah thought of that too, but ruled it out a the other day. The rotor does turn as the engine cranks. Thanks for the gap spec! __________________ 69 Chevy C10 Long Finally down to the frame! My Build Progress Pics

10-28-2006, 01:54 AM	#36
jhow66 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Knoxville Tenn. Posts: 3,058	Re: 69 c10 starting problems Point gap is .016 for inline 6 (dwell-28 to 35) __________________ 56 Chevy Bel-Air 2dr. HT (purchased new) 71 Chevy Cheyenne SWB PU (502HO) 65 GMC short bed step--work in progress and my gofer

10-28-2006, 12:37 PM	#37
ilovetara My truck is in pieces! Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Abbotsford BC Canada Posts: 143	Re: 69 c10 starting problems Hey, LOCDOC, yes read your post, BUT still having trouble getting it out of the dash. I will have to find something stronger than a paper clip to put into the hole. jhow66: thanks for your gap specs and dwell! __________________ 69 Chevy C10 Long Finally down to the frame! My Build Progress Pics

10-28-2006, 08:26 PM	#38
ilovetara My truck is in pieces! Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Abbotsford BC Canada Posts: 143	Re: 69 c10 starting problems Well some progress. Replaced the coil. Had someone crank the engine over, there was a spark at the points. I tried to set the gap properly. Took spark plug out left it connected to wire, held it close to side of engine, and there was spark there as well. Now, How about fuel. With the gas pedal pressed, I looked into the carb and no fuel was present. Maybe my fuel lines are clogged. Poured a tiny amount of fuel into the carb and no change. Used starting fluid again and it got closer to starting! BUT still no start I believe the carb needs to be worked on but I think its still operational. Can anyone help me on details of fuel getting to the right place? Thanks __________________ 69 Chevy C10 Long Finally down to the frame! My Build Progress Pics

10-28-2006, 10:06 PM	#39
Werewolf Woof? Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Raleigh, NC Posts: 276	Re: 69 c10 starting problems Fuel pump's probably bad. Pull the line off the carb and have somebody crank the truck. Just be careful, as fuel will spray out of the line when the truck is being cranked. If there's no fuel coming through the line, the fuel pump is probably shot. Could also be the fuel filter, but it's rare for one to get that dirty. __________________ 1968 LWB CST BB 2004 Avalanche Z71 LT3. 2003 S-10 ZR2 (hers). 1997 Astro 1992 Caprice wagon, 500k stock miles. Nursing wounds after a bad wreck. 1997 Saturn - need gas mileage from something!

10-28-2006, 10:41 PM	#40
ghetto_superman Registered User Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Omaha, NE Posts: 1,982	Re: 69 c10 starting problems congrats on getting spark! now it sounds like what my truck was doing.. if i dumped gas in the carb or used starting fluid it would fire, but only run as long as the amount of fuel that i dumped in the carb.. SO i thought maybe my fuel pump was bad.. and only filters that my truck HAD are the inline one between the pump and the carb, and the inline one that is IN the carb. SO i undid the hose at the fuel filter (the one that goes down to the pump) and low and behold there was a PSSSSS!! of pressure that came out.. so that told me that one of the filters (or something in the carb) wasnt letting anything through. so just to double check that the pump was good i cranked it a few times and fuel spewed from the tube. ok sweet, the pump is still good. so then i re-attached the inline filter outside of the carb, and fuel pumped through there easily enough. then i took out the filter inside of the carb and for some crazy reason, low and behold, NOW MY CARB GETS FUEL!! so it runs fine now. i was lucky that i didnt have to figure out any crazy carb stuff... (im not very carb savvy..) that was just my scenario after i finally got my spark problems figured out. hopefully it will help you some.. basically i just singled out what the problems WEREN'T. and then youll eventually hget the right answer. !

10-29-2006, 02:01 AM	#41
ilovetara My truck is in pieces! Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Abbotsford BC Canada Posts: 143	Re: 69 c10 starting problems Thanks guys, I will check the fuel pump tomorrow morning, or take the line off at the carb to see what happens. Thanks again and I will post my happenings tomorrow. __________________ 69 Chevy C10 Long Finally down to the frame! My Build Progress Pics

10-29-2006, 09:00 PM	#42
ilovetara My truck is in pieces! Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Abbotsford BC Canada Posts: 143	Re: 69 c10 starting problems Took the line off the carb and went to move it out of the way, well broke the line. Damn! Picked up a new pump and filter, but did not put them on yet because of the broken line between the pump and the carb. Where do I get a new line?? __________________ 69 Chevy C10 Long Finally down to the frame! My Build Progress Pics

10-29-2006, 10:36 PM	#43
Werewolf Woof? Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Raleigh, NC Posts: 276	Re: 69 c10 starting problems Just get a piece of rubber line with a couple of screw clamps. Or better yet, cut out a bit more line, and stick a new inline filter in there. Better filtering, and easier to change. __________________ 1968 LWB CST BB 2004 Avalanche Z71 LT3. 2003 S-10 ZR2 (hers). 1997 Astro 1992 Caprice wagon, 500k stock miles. Nursing wounds after a bad wreck. 1997 Saturn - need gas mileage from something!



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10-31-2006, 09:29 AM	#44
ilovetara My truck is in pieces! Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Abbotsford BC Canada Posts: 143	Re: 69 c10 starting problems Hey thats a great idea! Thanks __________________ 69 Chevy C10 Long Finally down to the frame! My Build Progress Pics

10-31-2006, 09:49 AM	#45
krue Designated A-hole! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: South Mississippi Posts: 36,450	Re: 69 c10 starting problems But if you need to buy a new line go to the parts store and get the appropriate size brake line with fittings and flares already on. __________________ "If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is!" Being stupid ain't illegal. We're Still Debt Free Except for the House!!! www.daveramsey.com 70 GMC SWB Stepside project "Green Booger" soon to be 6.0l/4l80e 93 S-10 "Poppaw's Truck"

01-27-2007, 08:02 PM	#46
ilovetara My truck is in pieces! Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Abbotsford BC Canada Posts: 143	Re: 69 c10 starting problems Ok some more details... Replaced the fuel pump, rebuilt the carburator. Have spark, fuel pump works, truck cranks over really good and tries to start but then no go. I did install the filter inside the carb, maybe I should take that out and see if fuel gets to the carb then. Installed a brand new starter, ignition switch and cylinder with key. Installed a external voltage regulator. I don't think fuel is getting into the carb, is it okay to take out the tiny filter inside the carb? Also I do not have an inline fuel filter that I can see. __________________ 69 Chevy C10 Long Finally down to the frame! My Build Progress Pics

01-27-2007, 08:03 PM	#47
ilovetara My truck is in pieces! Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Abbotsford BC Canada Posts: 143	Re: 69 c10 starting problems I have used some starting fluid and poured some gas into the carb, Was so close to it running. Maybe I have flooded the plugs now. __________________ 69 Chevy C10 Long Finally down to the frame! My Build Progress Pics

01-27-2007, 08:22 PM	#48
krue Designated A-hole! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: South Mississippi Posts: 36,450	Re: 69 c10 starting problems Have you done anything with your timing? __________________ "If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is!" Being stupid ain't illegal. We're Still Debt Free Except for the House!!! www.daveramsey.com 70 GMC SWB Stepside project "Green Booger" soon to be 6.0l/4l80e 93 S-10 "Poppaw's Truck"

01-27-2007, 08:24 PM	#49
ilovetara My truck is in pieces! Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Abbotsford BC Canada Posts: 143	Re: 69 c10 starting problems I have gotten TDC. Also does the rotor need to point at the #1 on the engine or #1 on the cap? __________________ 69 Chevy C10 Long Finally down to the frame! My Build Progress Pics

01-27-2007, 08:38 PM	#50
krue Designated A-hole! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: South Mississippi Posts: 36,450	Re: 69 c10 starting problems It really doesn't matter. If you have #1 @ TDC, where the rotor is pointing should be the wire going to #1 cylinder, then wire the firing order. This may not be "factory" but it will be right. __________________ "If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is!" Being stupid ain't illegal. We're Still Debt Free Except for the House!!! www.daveramsey.com 70 GMC SWB Stepside project "Green Booger" soon to be 6.0l/4l80e 93 S-10 "Poppaw's Truck"

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