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03-12-2010, 09:52 AM | #26 |
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Re: Lower Ball Joint is a PITA
If you don't have a press, take the A-frame to your local shop & they'll swap out your ball joints for a few bucks.
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03-15-2010, 11:56 AM | #27 |
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Re: Lower Ball Joint is a PITA
Well the tool is toast! Bent right in two........$35 down the drain.
The bottom ball joint is in there Big Time. Back to the drawing board. Maybe try the fork on the top ball joint. Or the bottom c arm U bolts..................................................... Arrr
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1968 Chevy C10 307 3ott fleetside 1967 Chevy C/10 V8, 3spd, fleetside lwb.Sold 1967 Chev C/10 step, 383, M21. SOLD |
03-15-2010, 08:51 PM | #28 |
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Re: Lower Ball Joint is a PITA
No heat or BFH needed... just get a 1/2" dia. bolt about 2-1/2" long w/nut, some washers, and a deep socket and you can pop the spindle off in a few minutes with a wrench.
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1969 C10 LWB W/ 250 I6 & 3spd 1970 C10 with '67 small window cab, 68 front end, blue; 305/TH350, 3.08 limited slip rear end, manual brakes, power steering; & 4-wheel drums-My daily driver. 1975 Chevelle Malibu Classic Coupe 350/th350 mint green 1970 C20 Suburban 350/700R4 4.10 gearing green & white 1978 Big 10 Silverado 350/th350, working ac, 2 tone blue-My summer daily driver 1983 GMC 1500 Sierra 305/SM465 2.73 rear end How to add a trip odometer to your 67-72 stock speedometer How to rebuild your Q-Jet My Truck Page My Youtube Channel |
03-15-2010, 10:26 PM | #29 |
Join Date: Dec 1999
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Re: Lower Ball Joint is a PITA
Ball Joint press...cheap ones available at a Harbour Freight or TSC in states or a Princess Auto in Canada
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Senior active founding member. 70 3/4 ton GMC Suburban 4x4 250/4 spd. 71 1/2 ton Suburban Chevy 4x4, 350/350 72 Chev 1 ton tow truck 402BB w/Holmes 440 wrecker on propane 2005 FLSTSCI Harley Springer 85 FXSB Harley Lowrider 72 Triumph 650 Bonneville 5spd "Poor people don't have hobbies" Quote from wife. Last edited by Rod; 03-15-2010 at 10:45 PM. |
03-15-2010, 11:53 PM | #30 |
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Re: Lower Ball Joint is a PITA
Well the spreader tool is no good. The lower ball joint is in there like a kant tell ya..............................................................
I am open to ideas as I hate smashing a 67 with a sledge but this s Going to try the control arm tm
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1968 Chevy C10 307 3ott fleetside 1967 Chevy C/10 V8, 3spd, fleetside lwb.Sold 1967 Chev C/10 step, 383, M21. SOLD |
03-16-2010, 07:01 AM | #31 |
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Re: Lower Ball Joint is a PITA
BINGO!!! this thing works like a charm... presses in and out!!! rent for free at most auto places. Auto zone was half the price deposit wise compared to checker/kragen
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03-16-2010, 08:17 AM | #32 |
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Eatonville, WA
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Re: Lower Ball Joint is a PITA
i think you need to upgrade your BFH to a BIGGER BFH...i've never seen someone have that much trouble...i would have already busted out the mapgas torch. first suggestion was to just drop it from the xmember (already suggested) but now sounds like you gotta replace it cause it's toast...just take it and the spindle to a shop and get them to pop it out with a pneumatic press dude. i would have lost my mind after about 5 minutes of messing with it HAHAHA
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03-16-2010, 09:11 AM | #33 |
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Re: Lower Ball Joint is a PITA
Ya mind is gone........Nothing on the truck is damaged....yet.
The tool just bend right in half and the washers protected everything. I can't see how I would get that press above in between the ball joints. I have a tonn of penitrating oil on the Ubolts control arm so we shale see tn if they want to play nice.
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1968 Chevy C10 307 3ott fleetside 1967 Chevy C/10 V8, 3spd, fleetside lwb.Sold 1967 Chev C/10 step, 383, M21. SOLD |
03-16-2010, 09:23 AM | #34 |
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Re: Lower Ball Joint is a PITA
the best thing i found for penetrating stuck bolts and such is actually a product called sea foam Deep Creep...it's meant as a carb/choke cleaner but i found it works better than just about any penetrant i've ever used....probably would eat up the rubber or cause it to eventually dry-rot, but no issues if you're replacing the ball joint
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GOD BLESS MY BROTHERS & SISTERS THAT SERVE WITH US - 67 GMC Long-Wide 350/SM420 My BACON Wrapped Meatloaf Recipe |
03-16-2010, 09:26 AM | #35 |
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Re: Lower Ball Joint is a PITA
Ya I'm trying to get the spring out, drill the holes and pop in the bag without replaceing the ball joints.....sounds easy doesn't it...lol
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1968 Chevy C10 307 3ott fleetside 1967 Chevy C/10 V8, 3spd, fleetside lwb.Sold 1967 Chev C/10 step, 383, M21. SOLD |
03-16-2010, 10:48 AM | #36 |
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Re: Lower Ball Joint is a PITA
at this point, i would say it's more advisable to replace the joints...well it is a 40+ year old truck, and if they are stock arms, you can bet they've probably only ever been replaced a handful of times if that...some people don't do routine or preventative maintenace on their vehicles...most people drive em til something breaks and then fix it good enough to get it back on the road.
have you tried taking the bolts out the a-arm that connect to the xmember and smacking the spindle with the bfh while relieving pressure off the back side of the arm...it might pop doing that...just be careful doing it...i had to do that on my 2001 GMC when i put the stock springs back in a couple of years ago and it popped out.
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GOD BLESS MY BROTHERS & SISTERS THAT SERVE WITH US - 67 GMC Long-Wide 350/SM420 My BACON Wrapped Meatloaf Recipe |
03-16-2010, 11:04 AM | #37 |
67-72 parts collector,…
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Re: Lower Ball Joint is a PITA
We need some pics of your set up.
You have to have spring pressure on the lower a-arm while hitting the side of the spindle with a really big hammer. If you have a jack under the a-arm holding it up,... the ball joint is not going to pop. Loosen the castle nut enough to create a space between it and the spindle. Place your floor jack under the a-arm, but not touching it. Use a big hammer. I have a 16lb. sledge hammer with the handle cut down to about a foot long. Turn the wheel one way (left or right) and strike the balljoint area of the spindle. Turn the wheels the other way and strike the opposite side of the spindle. Unless you have some "torched" springs that have no spring pressure left,... the balljoint should pop loose. You can also wedge a Pickle fork in, to create pressure on the balljoint. Please post up some pics if you can.
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Keith Convert to disc brakes. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444823 Last edited by lolife99; 03-16-2010 at 11:05 AM. |
03-16-2010, 11:13 AM | #38 |
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Re: Lower Ball Joint is a PITA
Ya I'll get a pic tonight. The springs are cut down one coil but not loose so they have a little spring in there. I was using a cut down 8lbs sledge, fork in the bottom and the $35 speader tool.
Castle nut is like you say and so is the jack. Maybe a bigger fn hammer is all I need...
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1968 Chevy C10 307 3ott fleetside 1967 Chevy C/10 V8, 3spd, fleetside lwb.Sold 1967 Chev C/10 step, 383, M21. SOLD |
03-16-2010, 11:43 AM | #39 |
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Re: Lower Ball Joint is a PITA
either nut up and quit hitting it like a girl...J/K bro...the reason mine popped by removing the xmember bolts is cause i would smack it with the jack at differant heights, but i also wasn't running cut springs, and when mine popped, you knew it...it didn't barely come off, you heard the pop and saw the spring move pretty good. (yes i had the correct spindle for the spring) just moving the jack up and down created differant preasure areound the joint so when i hit it in the sweet spot, it popped right off...i never use a pickle fork...well not after the first time anyhow...tore the boot and never used one again!
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GOD BLESS MY BROTHERS & SISTERS THAT SERVE WITH US - 67 GMC Long-Wide 350/SM420 My BACON Wrapped Meatloaf Recipe |
03-16-2010, 11:46 AM | #40 |
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Re: Lower Ball Joint is a PITA
There is a big flat piece of metal that comes off the spindle...I was putting the
fork between it and the control arm so the boots are fine. I'll take a few pics and try a bigger hammer tonight.
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1968 Chevy C10 307 3ott fleetside 1967 Chevy C/10 V8, 3spd, fleetside lwb.Sold 1967 Chev C/10 step, 383, M21. SOLD |
03-16-2010, 12:13 PM | #41 |
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Re: Lower Ball Joint is a PITA
Don't they make pickle fork attachments for impact hammers? I saw my bro use one and it popped the joint in about 5 seconds.
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03-16-2010, 12:23 PM | #42 |
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Re: Lower Ball Joint is a PITA
i don't know if this will help, but if you still can't get it off with all this suggested, put the tire back on it and crank the tire back and forth...i'm not sure how safe this is, but maybe try lowering the truck back to the ground and adding some weight then lifting it...idk...without seeing what you're having a problem with at the moment i'm drawing a blank...maybe cause i've been up for a few too many hours.
good luck and post up that pick so we can see this monster joint you have
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GOD BLESS MY BROTHERS & SISTERS THAT SERVE WITH US - 67 GMC Long-Wide 350/SM420 My BACON Wrapped Meatloaf Recipe |
03-16-2010, 12:41 PM | #43 | |
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Re: Lower Ball Joint is a PITA
Quote:
The fork kit isn't mine or I would weld the fork to the bit...
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1968 Chevy C10 307 3ott fleetside 1967 Chevy C/10 V8, 3spd, fleetside lwb.Sold 1967 Chev C/10 step, 383, M21. SOLD |
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03-16-2010, 02:06 PM | #44 |
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Re: Lower Ball Joint is a PITA
With the truck on stands, Loosen the castle nut so there is a little space, Turn the wheel all the way to one side or the other. Put your jack under the brake disc and jack it up to compress the spring. This will put some downward pressure on the lower control arm. Hit the spindle with a BFH around the ball joint boss. That tool you ordered is for removing the ball joint from the control arm, not breaking the ball joint from the spindle.
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03-16-2010, 02:36 PM | #45 | |
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Re: Lower Ball Joint is a PITA
Quote:
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1968 Chevy C10 307 3ott fleetside 1967 Chevy C/10 V8, 3spd, fleetside lwb.Sold 1967 Chev C/10 step, 383, M21. SOLD |
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03-16-2010, 03:40 PM | #46 |
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Re: Lower Ball Joint is a PITA
Just be sure you have the jack under the rotor and not on the edge of the control arm. Jack it up a little at a time and hit the spindle a few good licks. if it doesn't pop, jack it up a little more to add a little more pressure.
I can't believe you are having that much trouble with it. Good luck. Be very careful. Those springs have been known to cause severe injuries.
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03-16-2010, 04:08 PM | #47 |
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Re: Lower Ball Joint is a PITA
Thanks man....I know it is getting nutty! I have a big chain around the spring and arm so I should be safe.
I have drums up front....may have to put a couple lugs back on ?
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1968 Chevy C10 307 3ott fleetside 1967 Chevy C/10 V8, 3spd, fleetside lwb.Sold 1967 Chev C/10 step, 383, M21. SOLD |
03-16-2010, 06:05 PM | #48 |
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Re: Lower Ball Joint is a PITA
I have always had good results just putting a jack under the spring cup, jacking up the A arm slightly, and removing the lower A arm U bolts. Then lower the jack and the A arm drops right down and the spring falls out.
Then you can just take the A arms with the spindle still attached to a machine shop and let them separate the ball joints with the mongo press. Good luck! |
03-16-2010, 06:20 PM | #49 |
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Re: Lower Ball Joint is a PITA
Probably a good idea. Turn them backwards so the flat side is against the drum.
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03-16-2010, 09:08 PM | #50 | |
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Re: Lower Ball Joint is a PITA
Quote:
I can not believe the ball joint is refusing to release itself from the spindle wow Sounds like it is literally welded to the spindle maybe check for a spot of weld on both sides or it was glued Good luck
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