Curious what most here have paid for thier trucks

[kaycee]

$300 for my 58 a coupla months ago 235/4speed slight rust in the usual spots,cleaned the plugs,points and a electric fuel pump and she runs like a sewing machine.all stock except for the rims.Soon to be a fleetside bed 350/700r4

[northerngmc]

So you guys who fix your own cabs. I have a question.

How many hours labour does it take to replace cab corners, steps and lower hinge pockets? And what do you value your own time?

Hummm, I guess that was 2 Q's!

[blue 72 gmc 4x4]

I paid $0 for my 1955 GMC Hydramatic

[Woodbutcher]

I paid $3500 and went down into Washington to pick it up. This photo is when I picked it up. It came with a TCI front suspension kit to install and a bunch of other new parts. So without the front end I paid about $1500.

[Tchia65]

I paid $5000 for mine. It was complete, never been hit, stripped and primed. Had new wiring, a brand new transmission and an LS motor. He was asking $9500 when the rear blew. Had to redo everything he did, but I wanted a fleetside.

[dicer]

Originally Posted by MrTucker

I cant fathom why anyone would ever pay $9k for a new cab that's not even in primer yet. You can pick up a cab off Craigslist for a couple hundred, get it sand blasted for another couple hundred, buy all new patch panels for another couple hundred, take it to a body shop and have them put the new patch panels in and primer it and be WELL under $9k in total cost. I've know guys that have bought cabs for under $200, and by the time they have primer on they have less than $500 invested. Of course, they did the work themselves, but patch panels aren't that difficult. I'd much rather spend a grand on parts and tools and try it myself.

I guess some people just have too much money

They are primered black. And they are for the folks that would spend 18K for a good factory restoration and then turn around an cut it up.
Wow I like the 300ish 58 good find.

[Mike Bradbury]

I paid $700 for my one owner bone stock '69 C20. He used it as a fishing truck and after 140,000 mi he had a 350 crate put into it and had only driven it 14,000 mi. I didn't have to do anything to it to drive it but I changed the carb and manifold to try and get better MPG. He had a camper shell on it from day one so the bed was in great shape. It was built in Fremont Ca. and lived its whole life in So Cal, so it has very little rust issues, other than a dime sized spot on the drivers door.



Here it is converted to a C10

[vwjohnny]

Paid $1000 for my not running '59 fleet option. Got it home and running after a valve job, tires, and new brakes... it keeps on tickin!

[mr48chev]

Actually $75.00 in 1973 $$ (332 in today's dollars) and I drove it home with a clear title and drove it to work the next day.
48 Chev, with a 194 Chevy II six and stock drive train and stock 16 inch wheels and sad tires. One of the tires blew the first week I had it though.

Someday I'll have to dig out the photo of just after I got it before I started doing any work on it.

[troy54gmc]

I paid $750 for mine. minus engine and trans.

[cozee]

I've got around $1500.00 invested in my '52, so far.

One day though I want to get an AD at Barrett Jackson's and hack it up into a rat rod!!!!

[oldcarfart]

Originally Posted by dicer

And if you had to pay into the 7000 to 10000 range for a fairly good stock one would you still do the modifications to it. Or do you prefer the 3000 or under priced ones for that? I found a good truck but he's kinda high price wise, cause it aint that perfect.

I paid $1600.00 for 2 trucks, one running "rat rod" (actually old '60's build) with 235, dual carbs & headder, 2nd truck no engine/trans or bed.

[MrTucker]

Originally Posted by dicer

They are primered black. And they are for the folks that would spend 18K for a good factory restoration and then turn around an cut it up.
Wow I like the 300ish 58 good find.

actually they are EDP coated and some painters say you should remove it prior to paint...

[oldschool53_BBC]

I paid 3900 for a rolling chasis that still needed some work but was solid and a bunch of cardboard boxes. In the end I will have a good start for a second truck..

[bobinbc]

Originally Posted by dicer

And if you had to pay into the 7000 to 10000 range for a fairly good stock one would you still do the modifications to it. Or do you prefer the 3000 or under priced ones for that? I found a good truck but he's kinda high price wise, cause it aint that perfect.

Hey Dicer, we showed you ours, lets see the one you're talking about. How much does he want? It doesn't really matter, you know. It's really a matter of personal choice where you want to start and how much work and money you want to put into it to get the end result you want.

I think a much more illuminating question would be how much does everyone have into their trucks in time and money as it gets close to the way they want it....I totally understand that some are not comfortable discussing this so I'll go first. The yellow truck in my avatar only cost me about $6000 cash to build over a 3 year period but I had a lot of parts laying around, I scrounged hard to get deals on everything I used and I did all the labour myself with some help from friends, including paint. It turned out to be a nice driver/hot rod with a replacement value of at least $15,000 (that's what I sold it for, kicks self in a$$)

Here's a pic the day I decided to sell it, it was gone the following day...

[oldcarfart]

Supply and demand will always control price but the demand for AD trucks have justified a market where a complete truck can be build with no original OEM parts involved.

[55metalmonkey]

Paid $4000.00 for mine 95% rust free and came with all new (repop) pannels and fiberglass fenders, painless wiring kit, wipermotor kit, PS kit, 4 corner disc brakes, and 4-5 huge boxes of all new odds & ends from CPP. no engine and trans though... I already had a 300hp-350/th400 combo at the shop anyway which is what made me start looking in the first place.
Basicly I bought it because it just needed assembly, The PO was not a hack, knew what he was doing and had all the higher end stuff to finnish it, he just didn't have the time.
It was a no brainer for me, as soon as I saw it I knew I could just restore the original pannels, and sell off the new repops and make at least half my $$ back. Of course like everyone else once I was knuckes deep into it I changed my plan and tore it right down. Good thing I did too, I found tons of small things that wern't quite right and hidden by body pannels. even though I crawled over, under and through the entire truck before I bought it for the price your always going to find stuff you didn't see at first,
Still very happy with it...just gotta get-r-done.

[Thadious]

Welcome to the boards Mark!

Cheers,
Ted.

[mr48chev]

I paid 75.00 for mine in Feb or March of 1973 (the 48) and drove it home with a 194 Chevy II six and a hand brushed green paint job. In the middle of the summer we drove it from McGregor Texas To Tulsa OK as a painted and upholstered truck with 69 Z28 Rally wheels on it to the NSRA street rod Nationals. Total investment at that time was around 600.00 if that and it actually had a slicker body than it has had since.

[55metalmonkey]

Originally Posted by Thadious

Welcome to the boards Mark!

Cheers,
Ted.

Thanks Ted,
Been here since you forwarded the link to me months ago, just not one of those yappy types.

[dicer]

Originally Posted by kaycee

$300 for my 58 a coupla months ago 235/4speed slight rust in the usual spots,cleaned the plugs,points and a electric fuel pump and she runs like a sewing machine.all stock except for the rims.Soon to be a fleetside bed 350/700r4

Well in this area you are lucky to find a total rust bucket for $2000. that is not goofed up in some form or fashion. Oh well patch panels here we come. I guess someone has to keep those companys going.

[55dude]

paid $700 last august for the 56' panel in my avitar and the rust is basically on the surface after being in storage for 30 years. has non running 283/3spd o.d. now and might just install 235 back in it with t-5.

[GhostTown]

I paid $2,000 for mine. Way too much for around here considering what I got. He had me bamboozled because it started up and was drivable......... for one mile. I had to have it towed the rest of the way home. The block was cracked, rear suspension busted up, I had to patch panel the front and rear inner and out corners. The list goes on. I just didn't know any better and fell for the thing. I HAD TO HAVE IT RIGHT NOW.

[sweet70beast]

Paid $100 back in 99 from the second owner. He had it since 56. He wanted someone who would love it and take care of it and never sell it, and that is why only $100. It cost $150 to get it running(battery, oil, tune up, etc) and it has been running ever since.
Original 216/4spd truck has 11,000 original miles. Had zero rust when I got it now has a little surface rust.



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54 Suburban and 47 Panel came as a set in 09 $500 for the Burb and $100 for the panel.



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[dicer]

Originally Posted by GhostTown

I paid $2,000 for mine. Way too much for around here considering what I got. He had me bamboozled because it started up and was drivable......... for one mile. I had to have it towed the rest of the way home. The block was cracked, rear suspension busted up, I had to patch panel the front and rear inner and out corners. The list goes on. I just didn't know any better and fell for the thing. I HAD TO HAVE IT RIGHT NOW.

I can kinda relate. I'm in the process of buying one thats gona need some attention patch panel wise. But I have seen worse. And I could go futher outa state but then shipping enters the picture, plus outa state unless you can get there to look, you have no idea what you are getting. Gosh even Ca and Arizona trucks have rust outs when they get into the 50 year old range.