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#26 |
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Re: Waterpump?
it might,, a good lick of the mounting area with the area in the marker clearer..
Last edited by stich626; 04-03-2011 at 10:02 PM. |
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#27 |
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Re: Waterpump?
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#28 | |
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Re: Waterpump?
Quote:
OP, your alternator is on the driver side, as it should be with a short water pump. Later year trucks (73-up) used a long water pump, and the alternator was on the passenger side. The pulleys/brackets used for short and long water pumps are different. I do not know if there are "spacers" on your water pump now or if that is just a funny looking way it was cast?? If they are spacers, it looks to me like if they were removed the water pump would hit the timing cover. Take the pump off and take it to Autozone with you for comparison as Cdowns said way back when. Take the bolts to Home Depot or any hardware store and match them up to new ones. Case closed. Done deal. End of story.
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1972 C/10 Cheyenne Super SWB. Restored, loaded, slammed. 1968 C/10 50th Anniversary LWB. Unrestored, stock, daily driver/work truck. RIP ElJay RIP 67ChevyRedneck RIP Grumpy Old Man RIP FleetsidePaul |
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#29 |
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Re: Waterpump?
looks like a short, just can't make out what that (drivers side) leg thing is, spacer, casting line,,
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#30 |
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Re: Waterpump?
All i see is a short water pump, no spacers between the pump and block, just the casting of the water pump, like was mentioned earlier you can take the old one off and take it with you, its good advice.
The only time any spacers between the pump and block might be needed is if the water pump actually compresses the timing cover so badly it would hit the timing chain/gears. Its very common that the covers touch, even have a little squish, or have very little space between them, the reason for a shim would be if the water pump was rebuilt they may surface grind the flange which would move the pump body closer to the engine block. There is also fan/pully shims you can buy to align the pullys if nessasary. The ground strap is mounted to a stud in your case, a stud in the block followed by a nut to secure the pump to the block, then another nut to secure the ground strap, you would be better off moving the ground strap to a hole on the head if one is avalable on the front surface. also plan on the stud comming out when you loosen the nut, it tends to happen a lot. As mentioned remove the pump and take it with you, and take the bolts with to match them, there ether 3/8-18NC or 7/16-14NC, length i don't recall but would guess the 3/8's, there are both long and short lengths. Also, 2 of the bolts protrude into the water jacket so your going to have to seal the threads, some folks use black RTV, some use Perma-gasket or perma-tex.
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#31 |
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Re: Waterpump?
Great info, thank you. Any other advice you guys have on the removal/installation is appreciated.
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#32 |
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Re: Waterpump?
Swamp rats advice is spot on.
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1972 C/10 Cheyenne Super SWB. Restored, loaded, slammed. 1968 C/10 50th Anniversary LWB. Unrestored, stock, daily driver/work truck. RIP ElJay RIP 67ChevyRedneck RIP Grumpy Old Man RIP FleetsidePaul |
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#33 | ||
"I ain't nobody, dork."
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Whidbey Island, Washington
Posts: 8,978
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Re: Waterpump?
Remove 4 bolts... knock old one off.
Scrape old gaskets off... put new gaskets between new pump and block, and bolt it on. I use Gasgacinch to install "paper" gaskets. Gary
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#34 |
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Re: Waterpump?
Hi Gary,
Don't I need to remove that belt/fan system also?
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#35 |
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Re: Waterpump?
Yes, and drain the coolant, so while your in there its a good time to replace the thermostat and gasket and all the radiator and heater hoses and flush the cooling system too, may not be nessasary but it could avert problems down the road if they havent been changed out since who knows when..
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#36 |
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Re: Waterpump?
Thanks swamp.
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#37 |
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Re: Waterpump?
emil77, just do us all a favor and remove the pump... then place it on a flat surface.. measure the pump...and get a new one from the parts store... what store... you pick...!!!!
WE all want to see a picture of a new pump under the hood of your truck... Very simple, short pump, water pump gaskets, bolts & you are taking pictures of a finished job that we all can be proud of!!! ![]() just buy a short pump and 2 water pump gaskets for the year of truck... Measure the bolts and you are on your way to giving us the pictures we all want to see.... you can do this!!!! ![]() ![]() |
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#38 |
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Re: Waterpump?
I 2nd the thermo stat and flush while open..
but this can balloon , then hoses then heater hoses then belts...and so on.. good luck.. |
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#39 |
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Re: Waterpump?
Thank you all for the great info.
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#40 | ||
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Re: Waterpump?
I kinda figured you would have gathered that stuff had to come off first.
![]() I also agree that a new t-stat and a flush. Gary
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'cuz chicks dig scars... My 1972 GMC 1500 Super Custom (Creeping Death) "long term" build thread. The Rebuild of Creeping Death after the wreck Quote:
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#41 |
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Join Date: Oct 2010
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Re: Waterpump?
Ok, new water pump is in. New t-stat and a nice flush with new coolant added also. My friend came over and helped, so far so good. I took her for a quick test drive, no problems.
Thanks for all the help.
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#42 |
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Re: Waterpump?
nice!
now dont forget to snap a few pics, for all us "photo hounds!" |
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#43 |
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Re: Waterpump?
It looks like we didn't tighten the water pump plug tight enough. I have coolant coming out from there. Whats the exact tool, size of tool I need for it? Also, what is the metal dowel looking thing for that comes with the new water pump?
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#44 | |
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Re: Waterpump?
Quote:
I just used teflon tape that you can purchase at any auto or hardware store and wrapped the plug about 3 times with the stuff, make sure you wrap the tape the correct direction so it won't come unwrapped when reinstalling it into the pump body. Its a thread sealant, any thread sealant that is compatable with antifreeze will work. There may have also been a reduction bushing with both male and female threads to use if the plug is a bit smaller than the port on the water pump. The plug uses an allen wrench or allen socket, cant tell the size from a picture but probably 1/2" ? You can measure it with a tape measure across 2 flats for proper size.
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#45 |
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Re: Waterpump?
There are additional plugs, do I need to put the smaller one first, then the bigger on top, sort of building it up?
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#46 | |
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Re: Waterpump?
Quote:
EDIT: Make absolutly sure that that plug is a pipe taper thread and not a SAE thread, that may be why it went in so far and may explaine why it didn't seal? Pipe taper threads have an interferance fit, SAE threads are the same diameter thru the length with no taper.. For reference look at the plug on ther lower port and note how it only went in just so far, thats from the tapered thread not letting it go to deep. On my truck i use the upper port for my temperature sensor, its a pipe thread.
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Mike. Swamp Rat build thread : http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=595019 72 3/4T 4X4 4" BDS Lift 33" BFG's Last edited by swamp rat; 04-10-2011 at 04:36 PM. |
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#47 |
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Re: Waterpump?
Hmmm, ok, I will look more closely. I am using the plugs that came with the pump. There was 3 items in the box, this plug, then a smaller plug that threads into another one and a metal dowel looking thing.
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#48 | ||
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Join Date: Sep 2007
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Re: Waterpump?
When I bought my waterpump there were sets of plugs in there like you describe. You will need to thread the smaller one into the larger "adapter" and then thread that in to the hole.
I just ditched them all and bought a chrome plated plug from Moroso. Gary
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'cuz chicks dig scars... My 1972 GMC 1500 Super Custom (Creeping Death) "long term" build thread. The Rebuild of Creeping Death after the wreck Quote:
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#49 | |
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Re: Waterpump?
Quote:
Great, that's the info I was looking for. Thanks!
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#50 |
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Join Date: Oct 2010
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Re: Waterpump?
I fixed it, I used a 3/4 drain plug with teflon tape on it. It fit perfectly into the hole and it's easier to take out if I ever have to then the standard drain plug.
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