Not Another Rebuild Thread....

[chad64chevy]

just checking in on ya! i like the drawing, i'm wanting to see how your going to do the grille! you'll get there it just takes time, good luck!!

[McMurphy]

Originally Posted by chad64chevy

just checking in on ya! i like the drawing, i'm wanting to see how your going to do the grille! you'll get there it just takes time, good luck!!

Thanks Chad!

Sunday I got the D-side fender off, though the bottom body bolt at ~that~ corner of the cab was more stubborn than the sheet metal. The fender is off, but the bolt with its handful of twisted metal is still there. It wanted to stay more than I wanted to take it off just yet, so I let it rest. (am letting me rest too LOL)
Though I got the drum cleaned and painted, I didnt get the wheel cleaned as I ran out of time and we had dinner guests coming over. So as you see it in the pic is how it still is.

pic #1 is the P-side wheel hub, that needle scaler is fantastic on cleaning all the years of caked on gunk off these areas!
#2 is the P-side cleaned and drum painted
#3 is the P-side profile with the cleaned wheel back on it.
#4 is the D-side hub cleaned and painted

[McMurphy]

So yesterday my wife and I spent a few hours of 35* sunshine in the boneyard pulling parts. While I prepped the transmission for drop, and got the pedal yoke, and all the linkage; she was collecting the Heater box, wiper arms, and the lights. Then we got the donor rig lifted and we commenced to drop the tranny.
By the time we were done we were chilled to the bone, but happy. $150 and we walked away with all this stuff.

"We can fix it, my dad's a TV repairman, he's got an awesome set of tools!"

#1 is the complete tranny, from the pedals and yoke, linkage, to the bell housing, and clutch plate
#2 is a close up of the Hurst Indy shifter (we got the knob but the boot and boot plate were chewed up) I think with some clean and polish this alone may have reimbursed me the $150
#3 Heater box with core inside. This weekend I plan on buying a battery for the truck and testing the heater motor and a few other things. We also snagged wiper arms and wiper fluid bottle with mount bracket.
#4 is a back up light and license plate light we got off a foreign car. I am thinking the dual bulb license light will make a really cool cyclops for the back of my cab. Especially if I can link the bulbs to brakes and turn signals.... more to follow on this idea. Plus I think a center back up/trailer hook up flood light would not suck either. We shall see....
#5 is the "cyclops" light opened

[C4 Metal Werks]

What's under that primer?

[scooterskoolkustoms]

LOL i had one of those old ford trucks you have in the picture.anyway nice work on your build

[McMurphy]

Originally Posted by C4 Metal Werks

What's under that primer?

I am hoping a truck! We shall soon see though. My best friend Kelly Wilson once told me to start with the engine and work your way out from there, that way you dont f**k up anything nice you've done to the outside. I think he also said getting them up and running was the harder part, so might as well get that done first.
So that is my plan.
Am shopping around for a motor to get rebuilt, buying a rebuilt, or getting a crate engine. I am thinking SBC 350 for what I have in mind for the rig.

LOL i had one of those old ford trucks you have in the picture.anyway nice work on your build

Scooter if you are talking about the red one in the first pic, that is a Fire Truck, and was the first in the "interior" for this part of Alaska. Not sure what it is waiting on, I think it was put in that yard to be restored by the Fire Department, but the funding for it evaporated and so there it sits. Nice piece of Fairbanks history rusting into the ground....

[McMurphy]

So another day at the pawn shop, and then the boneyard.
Went to the pawn for a power sawsall and found a Matco dent/pully puller. I wasnt really looking for the dent puller, but when I saw how versitile this one was I convinced myself I would need it....
Got a practically new Milwalkee Sawsall in the case too, walked out of there with the two, and $200 lighter in the wallet.

Picked up a fuel cell and skid plate from a fellow parting out a 1990 Blazer on post for $60, going back Monday for the Powersteering pump, gear box, and hoses for $50. Will need some cleaning but should work fine.

Then to the boneyard where I dropped another $200.
Got a "face" panel, not sure what the proper name is, fellow at the yard just said he thought it was part of the radiator mount. Gas pedal, door handle and window crank, a guage cluster, a tail gate that was straighter than my original, and a pair of manual remote side views from what I think was the carcass of a 72 Ranchero. I am not certain of the year, been trying to find them in Ford sites and catalogs but not much luck yet. They have the rally sport look, but have very odd cut shape to the mirror that really appeals to me. I will take some closer shots of the mirrors today.

I tried to talk a bench seat from a 72 El Camino out of the guy, but that car is mostly complete and runs "he says" and he wont part out his cars that are in that kind of condition or status.
He has a late 60s early 70s Lincoln that has the pop up headlights. I am trying to talk him out of the hardware for them. He quoted me $100 for the pair so I am going to have to mull that one over. I may just manufacture something myself for what I have in mind.

I got the extra dash cluster for a couple reasons... 1. practice of taking one out before I put my hands on mine. 2. the plastic "glass" on mine has glue from stickers or lables the Air Force put on there and I am not 100% sure I can get it all off without messing up the face. 3. instead of getting a rebuilt and customized set up off ebay, I have one now to tinker with and see if I can modify it myself, that way I have exactly what I want and where I want it. The only thing I wont be changing is the speedo, though I think will roll the Odo back just like most of you all have done.... Yay team!

Pic #1 is my fuel cell
#2 my skid plate
#3 all my bone yard stuff

[McMurphy]

Been a good weekend, got some stuff done.

Finished dismantling my front body work, and worked on getting my steering gear box off, but kinda had to set that one aside since I dont have a wench large enough for the hugeass nut on the bottom.
I have a PS pump and gear box off a 1990 Blazer I am hoping to use, am going to post a pic and hopefully some of you all can tell me what I am going to need to make this work, if that is possible and feasible...

Clutch pedal installed in cab, in cab fuel tank out and old mounting brackets cut down. Fuel tank is in pristene condition with about half gal of gas still in it. I capped it off and set it aside will post it on CL along with all my other original spare parts when I am closer to completion I guess.

Trailer hitch un-installed and came to the conclusion that in order to mount that Blazer fuel tank, it will make the job 10x easier if I disassemble my truck bed and pull all the wood deck out.
I just have to remember to include the skid plate when I am positioning the fuel tank.

Wife helped alot on Saturday, she worked some of my cradles and got them cleaned and primered.

pic #1 is the 1990 Blazer PS pump and gear box. Am I going to be able to use these? The pump came off a 350 with a serpentine set up. The Gearbox did not come with the (pitman?) arm. I will ask the guy I got it from if I can get it, if this is going to work of course...
#2 is my side view mirror with the cool cut mirror.
#3 is my cab with the clutch pedal installed, and some of my d-side rot
#4 is close up of my d-side floor rot. I am not sure how much of a patch I am going to need, nor which company makes or supplies the better patches for these trucks. I am going to need the posts, rocker, and guessing a whole d-side floor pan? Just because of the rot just under my gas pedal studs?

Any suggestions?
Gotta have an electrician come out and see if we can wire in a 220 for me so I can power up my welder, guess we are getting close to needing that soon...

As always, thanks for looking and any comments or suggestions you may have would be hugely appreicated!!

[Captainfab]

Sorry to say, but you won't be able to use that steering box on your truck. The 4wd steering boxes have a different sector shaft (output shaft) than the 2wd versions. You can not install a 2wd pitman arm onto a 4wd steering box. Also your original pitman arm is of no use in upgrading to power steering, so there is no need to remove it from the steering box.

[McMurphy]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Sorry to say, but you won't be able to use that steering box on your truck. The 4wd steering boxes have a different sector shaft (output shaft) than the 2wd versions. You can not install a 2wd pitman arm onto a 4wd steering box. Also your original pitman arm is of no use in upgrading to power steering, so there is no need to remove it from the steering box.

ahhh thanks Captain.
I forgot the donor rig was 4wd. That would make sense then. Pump should be Ok though to mount on a plain-jane small block 350?

[McMurphy]

Can someone tell me in small words what the difference between a 2 bolt and 4 bolt main 350ci is?

Also has anyone had ~any~ luck with repop fenders, and if so, where did you get them please?

I am still a ways away from needing them, but should be on it no later than Feb or March to have the rig on the road this spring. I am sure this old boy will be happy to feel the pavement rolling under it again after sitting for so many years.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by McMurphy

Can someone tell me in small words what the difference between a 2 bolt and 4 bolt main 350ci is?

Also has anyone had ~any~ luck with repop fenders, and if so, where did you get them please?

I am still a ways away from needing them, but should be on it no later than Feb or March to have the rig on the road this spring. I am sure this old boy will be happy to feel the pavement rolling under it again after sitting for so many years.

The difference is the number of bolts that hold the main caps on. The main caps hold the crank in.

I used repop fenders from Goodmark. Over all I'm happy. They need a little massaging around the cowl extension and headlight mount panel.
Posted via Mobile Device

[McMurphy]

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

The difference is the number of bolts that hold the main caps on. The main caps hold the crank in.

I used repop fenders from Goodmark. Over all I'm happy. They need a little massaging around the cowl extension and headlight mount panel.
Posted via Mobile Device

Thanks for the input Alan... so a 2bolt main does not automatically = small block?
And a 4bolt main not = big block?

Sorry for such noob questions, but I wonder about these things....

[kieth]

the higher HP 350s' had the 4 bolt mains, the lower hp ones did not, if you are not going more than 300 hp a 2 bolt main block will be fine. As I read your build I did have a thought , since your winters are so harsh (understatement) why don't you leave the camper on the pick up bed, put the bed on blocks outside and use it as additional storage, You can do all the work on the cab, engine, frame etc and the bed is the last thing to go back on. I would really suggest you look for a 91 burb 2wd or 87 pickup that is in fairly good shape, that way you would have all the brake parts, power steering, power brakes etc.....and a 350 tbi fuel injected engine.......I bought one for $1000.00 even used the tilt wheel and the wiring harness........just a thought. Kieth

[McMurphy]

Originally Posted by kieth

the higher HP 350s' had the 4 bolt mains, the lower hp ones did not, if you are not going more than 300 hp a 2 bolt main block will be fine. As I read your build I did have a thought , since your winters are so harsh (understatement) why don't you leave the camper on the pick up bed, put the bed on blocks outside and use it as additional storage, You can do all the work on the cab, engine, frame etc and the bed is the last thing to go back on. I would really suggest you look for a 91 burb 2wd or 87 pickup that is in fairly good shape, that way you would have all the brake parts, power steering, power brakes etc.....and a 350 tbi fuel injected engine.......I bought one for $1000.00 even used the tilt wheel and the wiring harness........just a thought. Kieth

That is a great suggestion Kieth, thanks!
I had thought of that too, as well as the ATV Tent we put up which is housing most of my front end.
Sadly though we have 6" on the ground here already, and there is a bit of an incline involved with the driveway out the garage doors. I am pretty sure the ATV could push the rig around as it is right now, but has potential to suck too LOL.

I was getting to the point where I was going to start asking about donor rigs, and what to keep an eye out for. I try to take copious notes when I read thru everyone elses rebuilds but I admit I get caught up in the beauty and innovation of some of the work and I forget about the research.
I want an early (late 70s is as new as I want) because after that all the vacuum and electronic stuff gets away from what my skill set can handle
But on the other hand, the motor has to be big enough to haul my trailered Pontiac up and over the Cascade mountains to Seattle area shows (a few years from now of course).

I guess it is time to make and hang a copy of the sign in old George's Welding Shop.

"DON'T BE AFRAID TO ASK STUPID QUESTIONS....
.... THEY ARE A LOT EASIER TO HANDLE THAN STUPID MISTAKES !"

Thanks again for taking a look!

[McMurphy]

The weekend has arrived.... wonder what I will get done in the next 2 days?

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by McMurphy

Thanks for the input Alan... so a 2bolt main does not automatically = small block?
And a 4bolt main not = big block?

Sorry for such noob questions, but I wonder about these things....

You can get a 2 or 4 bolt small or big block. clear as mud
Posted via Mobile Device

[McMurphy]

Ok this weekend suffered from late starts and lack of get it started. But some progress none the less.

Lifted out the center of the bed, good thing I read these boards and saw where chevy_man5 had notched the top of the carriage bolts with a cutting disk, that little tid bit helped with most of the stubborn ones. There were still 2 that I just had to cut out of there.

Got the new fuel tank lifted up into place for a mock up look-see and got the measurements I will need for the straps. Took out the overly complicated sending unit and am modding my original one to fit, more to follow on that.
That was yesterday.

Today I took my spare guage cluster apart and rolled back the odo on it. Going to fart around with that the rest of this week. Fun stuff. It isnt that the original builds or designs were "bad" but it is tons of fun to think, "What can I do to make this better..." or "How would I have done this, or how would I like it like this..."

I am sooooo going to rob some of you all's ideas.
Hopefully I will remember who I am stealing ideas from so I can give you credit in this history thread.

Pic #1 is the fuel tank mock up.
#2 is my guage cluster apart and odometer rolled back

[McMurphy]

Hello all,
It was a busy weekend for my truck.

Saturday got the camper, wheel wells, and the bed off the truck. Sadly I had to cut some bolts, and one of the steps is still connected to the wheel well because of a naughty bolt that was more stubborn than me at the time.

Sunday got going on cleaning the frame, fuel tank, and the tow hitch. Cleaned and painted.
Yesterday I had to plow some snow when I got home and the ATV wanted to be a slug so I had to stubborn it into life. An ATV with a snow plow is a hoot, and probably the most fun I have ever had pushing snow around ~chuckles~
Today I started with a minor mock up of the tank and hitch to see where I would be standing with them.

Is nice to think I am getting to a point where I can start putting things back together too...

Pic #1 is the general mock up
#2 is a closer shot
#3 is a close up of the d-side corner, this shows my frame to be about 3.75 inches too short to complete the hitch mounting. The ideas I am kicking around is adding 4" of frame straight off the back end ~or~ some sort of stiffner that runs the full length of the hitch mounting inside the channel of the frame which would be bolted in using the tank mounting strap bolts as well as the hitch mounting bolts. (This solution would be easiest I think, though I fear not the best or strongest) A donor frame would be ideal I think for the metal alone....

[McMurphy]

After work today I am going to look at a 84 Camaro Z28 that was parted out (no engine/tranny).
I will be looking particularly at the steering gear box, and brake system. The question I have at this time is if anyone knows if I can just swap out the front cross/steering member. I am curious to see if that can or will bolt up and save me the trouble of drop spindles and all that.

Dude only wants $300 for this rolling Z28 husk, so I am hoping there will be many a part and piece I can cannibalize for my truck.

[57truckguy]

looking at your truck.. great start.. FYI I know someone sells a flat clear for the hot rod folks.. I seen it at the local NAPA paint store I think.. Check with Eastwood they may have it also. I'm with everyone else. Hard to believe that you don't have more rust to content with... But my 57 had very little also.

[57truckguy]

Just for giggles is it possible to move the cross member forward or replace with something different to gain the four inches you are needing. I forsee a lotof problems/fun times with the four inch extension. Depends on how you look at it. LOL longer bed to comve the extension. means longer that normal bed boards and strips... just to name a couple of areas that would need attention if the frame was extended.

[57truckguy]

If you want to stay with the frame you have you could always drop in a frontend including the cross member from a later model 5 lug truck or 6 lug if you want to stay with the 6 lug look, such as a suburan and get bigger brakes and front sway bars and better sterring and only have to enlongate a couple of holes to mount the whole thing up.. The stovebolt site has a complete thread on how to do the change over... I will go and see if I can fine it if you are interested...

[57truckguy]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/forumdisplay.php?f=6 this is the link to the build

[McMurphy]

Thanks for taking a look Truckguy!
I am not going to go with a conventional truck bed on this bad boy, so the length of the wood isnt going to be much of an issue. I want to bring the bed frame back in from the cold now and set it up on there to see what I am looking at for clearance and fit so far.
Right now everything is just bolted on, I have not fired up the welder yet because when I do, I want to be sure that what I am welding is going to be there to stay and I am not at that point yet. Still putzing around with it. The longer I dink around, the more solid my ideas become and the clearer the plan of attack gets for me.

Will post pics from this weekend later, or tomorrow.