Killswitch, Engage!

[cleanfreak]

When I had my 69 , I had it figured out to put a padlock on the e-brake release , there is a slot there that should work , make the brake not release. Now that i have the hand brake (68) , that idea is tanked. Have all kinds of sneeky wiring ideas , but like many on the site , I don't want to advertise them (sorry). Just think outside of normal , and don't tell anybody.

[MARKDTN]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

I plan on installing a ford type solenoid hidden in the frame rail inturupting the main battery power. To activate it, I have considered a small switch hooked to the brake pedal. Pedal down, solenoid activated, turn the key like normal. If you don't hit the brake, then the starter will just click like a dead battery.
The beauty of this is no one will notice it. Your friends or even teenage kids (like no teen has ever taken off in dad's car for a joy ride) will never see you tap the brake pedal as you turn the key, but when they try to start it, it'll have a dead battery as far as they can tell. Even if they try to jump it, it'll still be dead. (won't stop a push start if you have a manual trans)

Be sure to use a continuous duty solenoid, not a starter one.

http://terminalsupplyco.com/Solenoids.aspx

The starter ones can burn out in a short time if you try to use them all the time. The others are rated to be more like a really big relay.

[NobleSix]

cleanfreak: thats a very awesome idea! ill hafta go out and take a look and see if i can fit a padlock onto mine.

markdtn: sorry for the noobish question, but, the lil black square relays are the ones you are referring to that will burn out after a short time of use? i ask because the ones in your link take alot of amperage to operate. im worried that if i were to make a mistake in wiring id have a bigger fire to deal with =D

[a_barth]

I think using the ford solenoid would work fine as Longhorn Man described because it would only be activated for a short period of time while the brake pedal is pressed but then it is going to activate every time the pedal is pushed and as earlier stated it is somewhat second nature for most people to press the brake pedal on start-up anyway, especially on an automatic (if its a manual i tend to hold in the clutch.) I think that a much cleaner way to do it would be to use one of the continuous solenoids mentioned above with a switch hidden just behind the lip at the bottom of the dash. Noone would see it with out crawling under the dash and looking for it and after a few uses it would probably become very easy to find.

[MARKDTN]

Originally Posted by a_barth

I think using the ford solenoid would work fine as Longhorn Man described because it would only be activated for a short period of time while the brake pedal is pressed but then it is going to activate every time the pedal is pushed and as earlier stated it is somewhat second nature for most people to press the brake pedal on start-up anyway, especially on an automatic (if its a manual i tend to hold in the clutch.) I think that a much cleaner way to do it would be to use one of the continuous solenoids mentioned above with a switch hidden just behind the lip at the bottom of the dash. Noone would see it with out crawling under the dash and looking for it and after a few uses it would probably become very easy to find.

After reading it again, I agree. He is just adding another solenoid like a hot-start kit. All I was trying to convey was that a Ford stater solenoid is not reated for continuous duty. For a starter interlock, they are fine. If you want to turn power on and off to the whole truck as you suggest, use a continuous duty one.

[a_barth]

I have been robbed before and my cousin's shop was recently robbed, so lately I have been puting a lot of thought into not being victimized. I lost only minor things and luckily I new roughly who took them so after a phone call and warnings spread through a few key people some of my stuff magically showed back up on my front porch. My cousin recently lost a brand new never fired 383 on the stand along with a number of alloy wheels and other parts from his locked shop. It's sad to think that all that went to a scrap yard and probably only brought a few hundred bucks.

My plan is to add a lock to the hood and install a bracket to the frame of my seat just under where I sit where I can install a push-button momentary switch wired to the Ford style starter solenoid and powered via the brake-light switch so that the button must be pushed while holding the brake and turning the key to start. This combined with a hidden fuel shut-off valve is about as safe as I can imagine short of buying one of those boots the cops use.

I only post this to give others some ideas how to make their rides a little more secure and also because this board seems like a pretty trust worthy group.

[tubbedII]

Awesome thread! I've always wanted something in my blazer since it doesn't have a top most of the time. Right now I just have a club on the brake pedal.

I really like the idea of the solenoid because of the sound it will make if the switch isn't activated. Probably need to be more descrete about the switch placement due to what people have said. I don't push the brake in my blazer to start it, but that's because I just got done pumping the gas a couple times...but in my daily it's just automatic to do it.

I've considered a lot of things for wiring a kill switch, but I never wanted it to be obvious to who's getting into the blazer with me. The least obvious way I've thought of was turning the light switch all the way to left (like turning on the courtesy lights) in order to activate the switch...I like the idea of cigarette lighter too, but that'd be pretty obivious to anyone getting in with me.

Can someone give more details on this soleniod because I have no idea on how to wire such a set up! That coupled with a cool hidden switch would be very nice.

[NobleSix]

tubbedII: great minds think alike eh? ive thought about things a passenger might notice when starting the vehicle, and have also come to the conclusion that the less obvious it is to someone the better. one could also go so far as to get a keyless entry type system and wire the relays or solonoids into the mix so its not an actual physical switch your hitting, but a button on a key fob like most cars have these days. heres a very handy pdf with some neat wiring ideas that squirel provided earlier, incase you missed it.

http://sonolithics.com/files/bosch.pdf

good stuff in there. page 12 or 13 is where it gets interesting

[a_barth]

If using the solenoid to disconnect the battery there shouldn't be any click when you hit the key if not activated, it will not make any sound at all. Wiring it would be simple, just hook the large side terminals in line with your battery cables and hook the negative terminal to a good ground source. The positive terminal would be wired to your choice of activation power supply. or vice versa if you want to activate it with a switch that finds ground like a horn button you would hook the positve directly to a constant or ignition-hot power source and the negative through your selected switch. Just make sure to use heavy enough wire and put a fuse somewhere in the circuit.

Also make sure that all of your accessories are tied in before the solenoid or they won't work, and I would probably mount the solenoid in a hidden spot or in a small lockable box other wise once under the hood it would be very easy to bypass.

[NobleSix]

a_barth: good call on the accessories! im still looking around to find a decent wiring diagram that i can use to sketch out what and where id like to install my kills, and so i dont accidentally wire something in line with them that ought not to be wired in. i was also thinking that, in lieu of using the brake pedal method, cause sometimes we use our brakes fairly often,(all mine ever did was slow me down anyways =P ) id use the high/low beam switch on the floor boards. the only thing is, if the relay or solenoid i use for this wer to malfunction or burn out, wouldnt i loose my headlights all together?

[a_barth]

NobleSix the high/low switch would work but you would have to use one of the continuos duty solenoids mentioned earlier because the high/low switch is not momentary. Every time you press the button the switch powers either the high or low circuit and turns off the other. If you were to wire the solenoid off the high beam circuit then the solenoid would be activated any time the high beams were on, this would burn up a Ford starter solenoid. Also if done correctly you shouldn't lose your headlights.

As far as wiring the accessories, the battery-hot terminal on the solenoid would actually provide a nice clean place to tie in all of your needed power supplys that would normally go directly to the battery.

Another thought I had that might work was to put a push-type momentary switch on the lower firewall underneath the carpet where only you know where it is. This way if you don't have your foot in the right place the truck won't start. Simple, clean, and discreet. Your passengers wouldn't even know.

[NobleSix]

Originally Posted by a_barth

NobleSix the high/low switch would work but you would have to use one of the continuos duty solenoids mentioned earlier because the high/low switch is not momentary. Every time you press the button the switch powers either the high or low circuit and turns off the other. If you were to wire the solenoid off the high beam circuit then the solenoid would be activated any time the high beams were on, this would burn up a Ford starter solenoid. Also if done correctly you shouldn't lose your headlights.

As far as wiring the accessories, the battery-hot terminal on the solenoid would actually provide a nice clean place to tie in all of your needed power supplys that would normally go directly to the battery.

Another thought I had that might work was to put a push-type momentary switch on the lower firewall underneath the carpet where only you know where it is. This way if you don't have your foot in the right place the truck won't start. Simple, clean, and discreet. Your passengers wouldn't even know.

very interesting. only problem is i dont know if im going to go with carpet on the interior.... i kinda had this crazy idea that i would just rhino line the inside of the cab so i could hose it out every now and then. not too long ago, the ole lady spilled a chocolate banana milkshake on the floor boards. i told her it was ok cause when we got home she could just take the hose to it. although, it does get pretty cold here in the winter time, and some sound deadening and thermal insulation would be really nice. but anywho, im geting a little too far ahead of myself.

i could always put that momentary switch a little higher on the toeboard, ive got big feet anyways, not like anyone could possibly notice the subtle movement of my foot.

im still very interested in the chain idea for the hood. anyone know where i could find pictures of previous installs?

[Longhorn Man]

I knew i would need the continuous duty type, thats actually what I have on hand. I had thought about the brake pedal but thats a good point that people hit the brakes when starting. I'll have to come up with a better descreet way... I think i like the button up high on the toe board or under the carpet.
The way I described the hooking up, it will in fact click when the key is turned. The whole truck will still have power since a stock 67 - 72 has the power taken directly at the battery for vehicle power and the cable only feeds the starter. The purple wire will get power and kick the gear out against the flywheel, but there will be no power on the cable to feed the starter motor. *CLICK*
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[71gmcburb]

[QUOTE=a_barth;4996390]NobleSix the high/low switch would work but you would have to use one of the continuos duty solenoids mentioned earlier because the high/low switch is not momentary. Every time you press the button the switch powers either the high or low circuit and turns off the other. If you were to wire the solenoid off the high beam circuit then the solenoid would be activated any time the high beams were on, this would burn up a Ford starter solenoid. Also if done correctly you shouldn't lose your headlights.

[QUOTE]



Thats funny as I've had my "66 wired this way for about 8 yrs now. Still the same solenoid powering everything up threw the hi/low beam switch. I drive it almost everyday

Remember you are only sending about 12 to 13 vols and around 5-600 amps for a very short time and the rest of the time you are sending only 80 amps back to the batt untill the voltage regulator says the batt is full charged then the amprage drops to nil. Ford designed these units to handle that kind of constant load and not fail.

as for wiring it in - with the batt disconected just cut your positive batt cable and intstall terminal lugs (or get 2 new cables that reach the location and to the starter)bolt onto the large studs, insert your solenoid, run a positive lead form the positive post in the solenoid to wharever you put your switch and then to the batt wih a inline fuse, run a second wire from the ground post to a good ground.

i wired my rigs up so the only thing the high/low switch runs is the kill. My headlights are run threw a pair of HD relays and a 3 position toggle. I leave the switch on low side but can switch to highs if needed and if a idiot trys to steal one and hits the toggle nothing happens as the headlight switch also has to be on to see the diff for the toggle

[a_barth]

I gotcha on the click now longhorn man I somehow forgot about the solenoid on the starter clicking.
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['68 C-20]

I use this type. Iff'n I need to secure it the green part unscrews and drops into my pocket.

[BMERDOC]

Originally Posted by squirel

Check out the link below from Bosch it has many ways to add kill switches using relays. For example having to push the cigarette lighter before truck will start. The kill switches start on pages 13.

http://sonolithics.com/files/bosch.pdf

I like the Stealth Starter Interupt on pg 15. This in combination with a seperate "flasher horn" circuit and a signal to the hazards would be insurance to let you know when someone is tryin to make off with your ride!

[BMERDOC]

Hmmm...Correction. With that circuit the horn would blow only when power is applied. If the flasher horn and hazards were to work correctly one would need to have constant power applied if the trigger was not implemented. Other than that the exsisting circuit would work because the horn would scream while power was applied.

Ha! You'd ruin someones boxers ifn you wired some of those monster train horns into that circuit!!

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by NobleSix

i also read about the cellphone gps tracking method! i think i still have the thread open somewhere, ill try to link it.


http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=464964


basically you get a cheap prepaid cellphone that has gps capabilities and java, and download an app, then you can track the cellphone through its own gps through the app's website for free. i am defianatly considering this, because i could wire the phone charger into the trucks 12v system and never have to worry about the phone going dead.

ton of good ideas here. thanks folks!

Wouldn't the time eventually run out on the prepaid phone by having the GPS on constantly? Or is it free? How does that work?
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[indianbullet]

When I had a tow service my wrecker had a horn button mounted next to the dimmer switch. The kind you would mount to your steering column. One of those could easily be mounted under carpet or floor mat above or to the right of the dimmer.
Just my .02

[NobleSix]

lsnova71: from what i understand, the prepaid minutes ONLY run out if you are actually tracking the phones location via the app. i can look out my window to see if the truck has left the last place i put it, and it wont cost me any minutes, then i go log onto the tracking website while im on hold with the 5-0 (cause 9 times outta ten theyda put you on hold for a vehicle theft cause it isnt life threatening...not your life per se) that is, ofcourse, if the image of a pasty white redneck with a mighty big gun(s) running after the would be thief in undies isnt scary enough to chase em off. but yeah, from what i can gather, it uses the minutes on the phone only if you log onto the website and check the location. it makes sense to me. ill hafta end up getting one and figure out exactly how it works. the original poster said that for 10 bucks a year he had a glorified lojack clone, so im mighty inclined to do so myself.

only thing is, i dont have a cellphone myself, so the ole lady might be after me to get a second one to monitor where I am at all times lol

71gmcburb
'68 c-20: you guys both have really good ideas, alot of good stuff to think through here.

[a_barth]

Down here we rednecks are tanned to a golden brown

[BluTrukker]

The only kill switch I need is the trigger on my 1911. Big gun, locked garage ,and 2 dogs that bark at anyone that comes in the driveway is what I use.

[domeier]

Originally Posted by NobleSix

...from what i can gather, it uses the minutes on the phone only if you log onto the website and check the location...

I don't know... but that seems awful iffy to me. I can just see myself logging on to that website a year from now while Joe Thief is in my truck headed for Tijuana, to find:

"Dear subscriber: www.stoldedtrucks.com is no longer valid on this server. We apologize for the inconvenience. If you are the owner of this site, please contact the administrator."

[chevy_man5]

A buddy of mine has a newer Corvette. When he walks away from the car with his keys in his pocket, it automatically locks, then when he walks back close to it, it unlocks. He has to be within a few feet for it to work.

Could a system like that be modified, so that when you are close to your truck, the solenoid, or relay, is active, then when you walk away, its not? That way, you just have a key-fob on your keys that passengers or thieves wouldn't notice.

You would have to probably set up a manual bypass, or at least keep some extra batteries for the key fob lying around just in case.