Found out something interesting..

[MTBADBOB]

Originally Posted by chevyrestoguy

Look on the back of the block at the part number. It should end in -509 or -817. The later 400s were almost always the -817 blocks. It's a 2-bolt main, but that's actually a good thing. Those engines got a bad rap years ago for no reason at all, usually from people that never owned one. A 400 is a great engine for a street machine. It's give you the torque of a small big-block with the size of a small block. I'm a huge fan of 400s.

I say build it! You'll like it, trust me.

Amen, I totally agree about the sb 400's. I had a '76 Monte that had a stock 400 and that was one of the best Chev motors I've ever owned! It would outrun every stock motored car I came across, other GM's, Ford 400 BB's, 351's, Mopar smallblocks, etc..., and still pull 21-23 mpg! All I did was run a/c lid turned over, air screws out about 5 turns, & advanced about 8 degrees. It was very impressive for a stock engine in a BIG car! I blew a belt one night out partying & the "alcohol" told me to try & make it home at 100+ mph!(what an idiot!) ended up cooking it. I replaced the cracked heads, but it also cooked the rings, never the same after that. One reason I no longer consume alcoholic beverages!

[MTBADBOB]

FYI, if you don't already know, you can use 350 heads, possibly other sb's, but be sure to mark heads with 400 head gaskets(cooling passages), & easily drill out the heads so they match the 400 passages. You can free-hand drill the holes & they work just fine, plenty of area to drill without messing up any other ports.

[suzq044]

Decided I'd post up some pics.. It's almost completely torn down now; we just need to pull out the last of the bearings, and finishing up the disassembling of the heads.

He wants to paint the engine Purple when it's done; we both equally hate the orange-block that everybody has. I'd've been okay with a black or silver paint. His truck, his choice, I suppose.









Doesn't look too bad to our very untrained eyes, but we're going to need to know where a decent machine shop is that isn't entirely out of the budget..

[Rich 5150 69]

While we`re lookin at the heads give us the numbers that are on them, that are between the valves on the top side, we can confirm the right heads or if they need to be drilled for the coolant holes.

[Captainfab]

That's a good idea.
I did notice that the steam holes in the block appear to be plugged. I suppose it is possible that someone in the past could have installed a set of 350 heads. A pic of the bottom of the heads would also confirm the steam holes.

Originally Posted by Rich 5150 69

While we`re lookin at the heads give us the numbers that are on them, that are between the valves on the top side, we can confirm the right heads or if they need to be drilled for the coolant holes.

[Rich 5150 69]

You are correct capt all six holes are plugged, Hmm wonder if the seller sold it because it was runing hot.

[suzq044]

The holes were blocked, btw.. that has since been fixed, ty for pointing it out, because to us, they just looked like remnants from the head-gasket.

The numbers are:

Heads: 333882
Cam: 6930
Crank: 8951528
Block: 330817

Turns out we got a bad #8 cylinder/piston; we'll probably go have it machined later this week. The rest of em were okay tho.. to our untrained eyes. We're looking to get as little work done to the engine as possible.

From what we can see, the block has never been bored. Crankshaft looks good but the cam is worn-out; new one necessary.
Any suggestions for a daily-driver/occasional tow?

[Captainfab]

What kind of suggestions are you asking for?

If this is going to be a daily driver, I would not go with anything less than a complete rebuild. One thing I can not stress enough, is to use plenty of assembly lube on the new cam and lifters (moly paste is best), use a breakin additive with ZDDP, and follow the breakin procedure exactly. With the absence of ZDDP in most of todays oils, you must be very carefull when building an engine with a flat tappet cam these days. If the cam goes flat, there is a very good chance you will have to tear the engine down and basically start over. I would suggest checking out the 'Engine and Drivetrain' section on the forum. There is a thread in the FAQ that talks about engine oils. Plus there are a few threads in there started by guys with cams that went flat.

Originally Posted by suzq044

The holes were blocked, btw.. that has since been fixed, ty for pointing it out, because to us, they just looked like remnants from the head-gasket.

The numbers are:

Heads: 333882
Cam: 6930
Crank: 8951528
Block: 330817

Turns out we got a bad #8 cylinder/piston; we'll probably go have it machined later this week. The rest of em were okay tho.. to our untrained eyes. We're looking to get as little work done to the engine as possible.

From what we can see, the block has never been bored. Crankshaft looks good but the cam is worn-out; new one necessary.
Any suggestions for a daily-driver/occasional tow?

[suzq044]

I was just asking about which new cam to use; along with any other parts that are recommended that we're probably replacing (like lifters, rods, pistons etc). As I said, it's not going to need to be a race-engine.

Random:
Our timing chain was seriously loose too; like.. 3" of travel, loose. So we're getting a new set there too.

[Captainfab]

Like I said, for a daily driver, I would not do anything less than a complete rebuild. That includes all wearable parts. Everything needs to be replaced like pistons, rings, bearings, cam, lifters, timing chain and gears, oil pump, all new gaskets and seals, etc. It has nothing to do with being a 'race' engine or not. It is about reliability. If you cut corners, it will not be reliable, or efficient. One of the best places to buy rebuild kits is http://www.northernautoparts.com

IMO, in rebuilding a SB400, I would at least go with flat top pistons, and a little bigger cam. Say something up to .480 valve lift and 230 degrees duration @.050 valve lift or less. There are many choices depending on what cam seller you are going with. If you come up with a couple choices, let me know and I will give you my recommendation. There again, I'm not suggesting a 'race engine' just making improvements while it is being rebuilt. Increasing the torque output will make the engine a little more efficient in that you won't have to push on the gas pedal as much to get going. A SB400 is easy to make torque with.

Originally Posted by suzq044

I was just asking about which new cam to use; along with any other parts that are recommended that we're probably replacing (like lifters, rods, pistons etc). As I said, it's not going to need to be a race-engine.

Random:
Our timing chain was seriously loose too; like.. 3" of travel, loose. So we're getting a new set there too.

[suzq044]

Cool. Thanks for the info. he'll probably want to go that route too.

[Captainfab]

Just as an example, we used this cam in a SB400 my son and I built for him. That was a strong running SB400!

http://www.northernautoparts.com/Pro...ctModelId=8905

There are less expensive cams that are similar, but they won't be exactly the same.

This one would be a good cam in a SB400 and is a bit cheaper

http://www.northernautoparts.com/Pro...tModelId=18654

I wouldn't go any smaller than this one.

http://www.northernautoparts.com/Pro...tModelId=18649

[apachedaddy]

Just to let you now that if the block is bad from the shop don't get ride of the crank/damper/flex plate. If the 400 block is bad you can use the crank to build a 383 stroker with a 350 block....(old school way 383)

[61K10]

your head casting #333882 shows as 350/400 74-80

[suzq044]

Originally Posted by apachedaddy

Just to let you now that if the block is bad from the shop don't get ride of the crank/damper/flex plate. If the 400 block is bad you can use the crank to build a 383 stroker with a 350 block....(old school way 383)

Good to know, we hope to get it to a machine shop this week to have it all checked out. From what we can see, it doesnt look to have ever been machined, although it may have been torn down at some point. There were numberes punched on the mains.. (sorry - terminology fails me at the moment)

I do know he wants to keep it as stock as possible in there. So, we'll see.


TY 61, but we knew that.. people were asking for the numbers, which is why i decided to post em all.
Posted via Mobile Device

[suzq044]

Still looking @ cams -- he wants to be able to improve the torque and hp, if able, and be able to cruise at highway speeds, at a little lower rpm than what the stocker would.

We don't know enough about cams to really know what the tech-speak translates to when in use.. damn being a noob! .. lol

[1Bad62Pro/Street]

Cam & Lifter Kit SB Chevy Hydraulic 2200 to 5800 RPM
SB Chevy Hydraulic
http://www.engine-worksperformance.c...PartNo=135290H

Camshafts 101: A Glossary of Camshaft and Valvetrain Terms
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=347969

[suzq044]

Awesome.. thx!

[Captainfab]

Either of the cams I posted links to will improve your TQ and HP. But no cam in the world is going to decrease the engine rpms at highway speeds. For that you need either a overdrive trans, or a higher rear end gear.

The Comp Extreme 4x4 cam I posted a link to would be my first choice, partially because I have experience with that one in a small block 400. However before a cam can be correctly chosen, you need to know how the engine will be built, your transmission type, and rear end gearing. If you are having trouble choosing one, either email or call a couple of the cam manufacturers. With all the pertinent info, they will help you choose a cam that best suits your application.

Originally Posted by suzq044

Still looking @ cams -- he wants to be able to improve the torque and hp, if able, and be able to cruise at highway speeds, at a little lower rpm than what the stocker would.

We don't know enough about cams to really know what the tech-speak translates to when in use.. damn being a noob! .. lol

[suzq044]

So.. on the upside of things, we finally decided on a new cam; here's the numbers so far from the machine-shop:

cylinders are .030 over
mains are .010 over

Haven't got the head work done yet, and we need to see if we can reuse the connecting-rods.. and the valves.

[Captainfab]

Which cam did you decide on?

[suzq044]

We went with the master kit from northern with the cs1013R cam.

Terry wanted to know more about the '76 Monte-Carlo -- what was the 'setup' -- which transmission & carb was it running - I realize, stock, but do you remember what it was?
He's liking your mpg numbers.