Source for copper/brass core Radiator????

[tucsonjwt]

I am not advocating Ready Rad. I only bought a Ready Rad because I needed one the same day my radiator blew and I am cheap so I did not want to spend a lot of money on my old truck. I always use OEM Delco or GM when the parts are available and have time to wait for them, unless the price is ridiculos high. I can't remember the model number but it was the one they had in their catalog for an 83 C20 454 manual trans, you can check for 3.125"
thick specification.
I did have to take the Ready Rad out and take it to a local radiator shop to repair a very small leak (about $40 repair), so that argues for a better quality radiator. I think I paid about $125 total for the Ready Rad, so add $40 for a repair and I would say the real cost is $165.
I think quality control is lacking on all parts, but I think OEM is always a better bet - but I have had trouble occasionally with Delco parts.
So, price OEM radiator online if you have time to wait. If it is about $200 or less, then go with OEM. If it is like $400- forget it - Ready Rad will do the job.
The radiator I replaced in my truck was the exact same Ready Rad that I installed - it was beyond repair after probably 15+ years of use. It was worth about $125 for my purposes.
If you are towing or hauling or have a mega horse street rod the you need a custom radiator, and I have heard Griffin or Be Cool are good brands.
I had an aluminum radiator (factory) in my 63 Corvette SWC 327/300 hp when I was a teenager. It did cool well. In a small engine compartment you need a superior radiator and that aluminum radiator barely fit in that small space. A big monster engine crammed in a street rod has the same problem.
Corvettes with 396 or 427 engines have big overheating problems. Those guys use extra cooling fans and other tricks to keep the temps down, but I have read that keeping that rat motor cool is a big challenge, espcecially when they are cruising around at slow speeds and showing off.
I may be wrong but I don't think the average radiator repair shop is skilled in aluminum radiator repair. When my Corvette radiator needed repair I just got blank stares from the local radiator shop (return overflow nipple broke off when the hood hit it - factory defect later corrected by shaving down a rivet holding the "cookie tin" trim plate on the hood.) So, a buddy of mine got a brass elbow and some perrmagasket to do the fix. Crude repair and it wouldn't pass NCRS inspection, but it worked. I like simple and cheap, so I would avoid the pricey aluminum radiators, but each to his or her own.

[Firebirdjones]

I like simple and cheap too (I think everyone would) but a radiator isn't something I'm willing to do that on anymore.

I bought a champion aluminum because they were cheap ($200) compared to the other aluminums I run, and it was for my daily driver (72 blazer)
It wasn't in there a week and the driver side tank turned green down the entire length. I took it to a local shop here in Prescott Valley and they fixed it no problem. But it was enough to tell me I'll never do that again. I just try to avoid alot of this China made stuff anymore.
Actually I find the aluminum tanks easier to repair, they are simply tigged, or you can use a mig setup for aluminum. It's fairly easy.
The copper is a little trickier because it's soldered. I've fixed some copper core leaks with resoldering, but it's tricky to apply the heat without melting solder in other places. Of course someone good at soldering would have more success.

We had (and recently sold) a bloomington gold 71 454 vette with 30,000 original miles. It's factory 4 core radiator would keep it cool even with the AC on. It would climb to ~200 in traffic which is warmer than I like for anything, but considered acceptable for a big block vette. It really wasn't that bad at all, but I've seen many others that can't idle through a grocery store parking lot

[88Jimmy4x4]

they came from the factory with copper/brass and made it thru traffic, parking lots and did just fine...I didnt buy mine because it was cheap...I bought mine because it was period correct

[Firebirdjones]

Originally Posted by 88Jimmy4x4

they came from the factory with copper/brass and made it thru traffic, parking lots and did just fine...I didnt buy mine because it was cheap...I bought mine because it was period correct

That's the sweet thing about the Griffin's, they duplicate the factory appearance. The only aluminum radiator that I know of doing this. I have a concours restored car here with a Griffin painted the correct shade of black. You can't tell it isn't OEM unless you are trying to find the Harrison stamp, and most people don't know where to look for that. It fools most everyone that looks at it. The original is kept in a box so I didn't ruin anything .
The last thing I'm worried about being period correct on is my old pickup trucks

[tucsonjwt]

Each to his or her own, but 200 degrees would scare the poop out of me if I had a high $$$ Vette. I have a 160 degree thermostat in the BB C20 and it stays around that temp with my city only driving - but a truck has a lot of free air space to help with cooling.
I never figured out why aluminum is better than copper for heat transfer, but worse for electrical conduction when it comes to wiring.

[88Jimmy4x4]

Originally Posted by Firebirdjones

That's the sweet thing about the Griffin's, they duplicate the factory appearance. The only aluminum radiator that I know of doing this. I have a concours restored car here with a Griffin painted the correct shade of black. You can't tell it isn't OEM unless you are trying to find the Harrison stamp, and most people don't know where to look for that. It fools most everyone that looks at it. The original is kept in a box so I didn't ruin anything .
The last thing I'm worried about being period correct on is my old pickup trucks

Ya I read your previous post about the griffin that looked like stock, wish I had known about that before...shame on you

seriously though I have spent countless hours and $$ on nos parts versus lmc type crap to keep it as correct as possible interior/exterior/underhood...hubcap wheels etc.

[Firebirdjones]

Originally Posted by tucsonjwt

Each to his or her own, but 200 degrees would scare the poop out of me if I had a high $$$ Vette. I have a 160 degree thermostat in the BB C20 and it stays around that temp with my city only driving - but a truck has a lot of free air space to help with cooling.
I never figured out why aluminum is better than copper for heat transfer, but worse for electrical conduction when it comes to wiring.

I did say 200 is warmer than I like But it's certainly not a concern for alarm,,,,,yet. With AC blowing in a 454 vette that's actually pretty darn good for engine temps when it's 100+ degrees outside

On a mild day (75-80 ambient) and no AC it would run ~170ish all day long.

This is all with the stock 1971 issue clutch fan and shroud, radiator etc...I could have improved on it greatly with an aluminum radiator, dual electric fans etc....but you just can't do that on a bloomington gold survivor vette, it would kill the value a great deal.

[Firebirdjones]

Originally Posted by 88Jimmy4x4

Ya I read your previous post about the griffin that looked like stock, wish I had known about that before...shame on you

seriously though I have spent countless hours and $$ on nos parts versus lmc type crap to keep it as correct as possible interior/exterior/underhood...hubcap wheels etc.

I know what you're saying. I have several cars here where factory appearance is important. Even the modded stuff I have is all hidden and made to look stock

[tucsonjwt]

Waaaait a minute - Preskitt never gets 100 degrees. Something is fishy here. Even global warming would not account for that. You don't even need air conditioning there - just roll down the windows and let the cool alpine air blow in. They only get 3 weeks of summer up there.

[WarBeard]

Ha Ha!I don't miss Tucson one bit!

[Firebirdjones]

Originally Posted by tucsonjwt

Waaaait a minute - Preskitt never gets 100 degrees. Something is fishy here. Even global warming would not account for that. You don't even need air conditioning there - just roll down the windows and let the cool alpine air blow in. They only get 3 weeks of summer up there.

Actually,,,,yes it does. Been upper 90's here for the last 4-5 weeks with tripple digits for several days. Last summer we routinely saw 102-105. We only average about 15 degrees cooler than Phoenix so when it's 115 down there it's easily 100 up here. And for the record we get about 8-9 months of decent temps and about 3 months of cold (if you call 50's for highs cold) You could call it 4 very mild seasons as some refer to. Not too hot, not too cold.

But to be perfectly clear I frequent Phoenix, I drive down there almost weekly and always take one of the classic cars to the Pavilions or 83rd or 67th, various cruises I like to hit, Good Guys, Super Chevy etc....and the dragstrip is down there too So my stuff also sees the extreme temps of 110-115. Unfortunately all the whimps stay indoors and don't come out during that time so the turn outs are a bit light

[88Jimmy4x4]

well if this ready rad goes out or ever starts leaking I will definately check out the griffin.

[tucsonjwt]

Or, fix the Ready Rad for $40.

[maskale]

Originally Posted by slam59

Saw this online and never heard of this brand before. Anyone hear of them and are they decent? I am needing a radiator too and was looking at different ones. Link below, if you scrolll down it is the fourth one down, the 4 core for $214

http://www.drivewire.com/vehicle/197...ckup/radiator/

Thats a SPECTRA CU165, there are other places that sell it, just google it.

Im am also looking for my 76, to replace the 4 core thats in it, but autozone website says this one does not fit. But its probably worth a try. I have not found anywhere that list the a 4 core that fits.

I checked griffin, seems most of theres are unifversal fit for my year range.

[CoggedBelt75]

I'm fixing to give the CU-165 a try in my '75. The Zone has it for 219.99 vs Summit's 240.95, excluding shipping. I am told it will fit '73-'77 C10s. I can't justify paying twice the price of a Griffin tho. My factory 2 row cools my setup surprisingly well until outside temps start climbing above 90 and I get caught having to idle or slowed speeds for an extended period, but has started to seep a little from the middle of the core. So instead of taking it out and having it rodded out and the leak repaired, I might as well spring for a much needed upgrade.

[slam59]

Coogedbelt, I see that radiator on the zones site, it does not say how many rows, but it is a 4 row correct? I see it on their site for $193, this one below correct? The summit site has 434-cu-165, same one correct?

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...ntifier=517561

[weider1717]

Just get your harrison recored I had mine done along with my harrison heater core! both brand new now with new cores and original tanks.

[CoggedBelt75]

The one from autozone and summit are the same radiator, just priced differently. And yes, it is a 4 core.

weider1717, could you give me an idea of what recoring my 2 row would cost?

[tucsonjwt]

Depth (in): 2.563

That cheaper Ready Rad was 3.125" thick. So, how is this a 4 core when the Ready Rad was a 3 core? Are these really skinny cores? Just askin'.

[slam59]

Hey Tuscon, where do you see where it says its 3.125 thick for the 3 row? Cause I'd love a thick 3 row over a thinner 4 row. I looked at advance auto and the 3 row they have there says its only 2" thick. Can you post the link with the info on the one you got that is 3.125 thick? Would love to get one of those.

Heres link below showing its 2" thick

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...d=1#fragment-2

[maskale]

you can go here for spectra specs

http://ecat.spectrapremium.com/

CU165

Parts Specifications
Core Material: Copper
Tank Material: Brass
Row: 4
Height: 28-1/4 In.
Width: 16-7/8 In.
Thickness: 2-9/16 In.
Inlet Header: 3-1/2 In. x 18-5/8 In.
Outlet Header: 3-1/2 In. x 18-5/8 In.
Inlet: 1-9/16 In.
Outlet: 1-9/16 In.
EOC: None
TOC: 8-1/2 In.(Concentric)
Comments: 1 x Installation Sheet 1 x Rubber Sleeve 1 x Steel Hose Clamp



According to autozone I need a CU730 for my 76 with a 454.

CU730

Core Material: Aluminum
Tank Material: Plastic
Row: 2
Height: 28-3/8 In.
Width: 20-1/4 In.
Thickness: 2-1/4 In.
Inlet Header: 3-1/2 In. x 20-7/8 In.
Outlet Header: 3-1/2 In. x 20-7/8 In.
Inlet: 1-5/16 In.
Outlet: 1-9/16 In.
EOC: None
TOC: 8-1/2 In.(4 Plates)
Comments: 1 x Installation Sheet



Here is some good info on the aluminum vs brass rads, I know they are talking about Griffin rads. but you can easily looking the rad at the store and see what the combined width of the cooling passages is. My 4 row is about 1/2" each, so I should be fine with an aluminum 2 row with 1" cooling passages.

http://www.carolinarodshop.com/Store...in/griffin.htm


So if an aluminum has 2 rows but they are twice as wide then it should be better then a 4 row.


Notice CU165 vs CU730 thickness. I would guess then the 2 row aluminum would be just as good as the 4 row, given the information here.

This does not take into consideration the whole aluminum and plastic vs brass construction durability debate, just the cooling ability.

But hey, you cant buy a new car now days that I know of that doesnt have aluminum and plastic for a rad, millions of them on the road now and working great..


Dont get confused with core thickness and inlet/outlet header thickeness.

[Firebirdjones]

Originally Posted by maskale

Here is some good info on the aluminum vs brass rads, I know they are talking about Griffin rads. but you can easily looking the rad at the store and see what the combined width of the cooling passages is. My 4 row is about 1/2" each, so I should be fine with an aluminum 2 row with 1" cooling passages.

http://www.carolinarodshop.com/Store...in/griffin.htm


So if an aluminum has 2 rows but they are twice as wide then it should be better then a 4 row.


Notice CU165 vs CU730 thickness. I would guess then the 2 row aluminum would be just as good as the 4 row, given the information here.

This does not take into consideration the whole aluminum and plastic vs brass construction durability debate, just the cooling ability.

But hey, you cant buy a new car now days that I know of that doesnt have aluminum and plastic for a rad, millions of them on the road now and working great..


Dont get confused with core thickness and inlet/outlet header thickeness.

Exactly. These are reasons why these aluminum rads do a better job. Less core but larger tubes (my griffin has 1 1/4" tubes) but is only 2 rows,,,and does a better job than the 4 core copper (with 1/2" tubes) it replaced. Easily 15 degrees cooler than before.

When you start stacking those cores in there (4 of them in a copper rad) Although it might be slightly better than a 3 core copper version, it becomes increasingly difficult to pass the air through and reach those back cores. That's one reason the larger cores (but less of them) seems to do a better job.

[tucsonjwt]

Ooops - I was measuring the outer tank thickness. I can't determine the actual core thickness with the radiator installed and the fan shroud in place. I did find a marking near the top of the right tank "Performance Rad 157812"? So, it was sold to me as a Ready Rad - I don't know if the companies are all in cahoots or sell the same rebranded radiators. I think I was expecting a Ready Rad 438730, which is supposed to be a 2 5/8" thick core.
I think copper/brass radiators have gone up in price in the past two years.

[Firebirdjones]

Originally Posted by tucsonjwt

I think copper/brass radiators have gone up in price in the past two years.

Yeah, we keep selling it to china and then we buy it back. We keep a close eye on the copper sales and the market in general because my wife has had alot of job interest from Freeport McMoran (mining company that has several areas around AZ) and copper is a big chunk of their market.

[76C10Stepside]

So, some aluminum radiators (the cheap ones) have really narrow tubes, and some (expensive ones like Griffin) have wider/thicker tubes. Good to know. The guy at the radiator shop was obviously talking about the cheap ones that most FLAPS sell.

Had the filler neck snap off of an aluminum/plastic radiator on a Volvo (not my car). I think it was a new radiator (that's what she said). Must have been defective. On the other hand, I bought a new aluminum/plastic Modine radiator for another car and it did fine--that is, until the water pump failed.

Assuming aluminum radiators are no more prone to corrosion than brass, I'd be comfortable buying a QUALITY all-aluminum rad. Just sayin...