Source for copper/brass core Radiator????

[UATahoe]

Seems like it is almost impossible to find these anymore. Ordered one from advanced auto that was described as a copper/brass core and metal tanks but the radiator that arrived was aluminum and plastic. Summit wasnt for sure either. Anybody know a source for these that doesnt charge an arm and a leg?

[88Jimmy4x4]

got my copper/brass from advance auto parts, maybe you ordered the wrong part number

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...rad_19920640-p

Ready-Rad Radiator Part No. 438161.....$166.19 with $50 off coupon shipped for free

[UATahoe]

Actually, no I didn't. I ordered part number 438716 which is the right one for my 87. Unfortunately when it showed up it was aluminum. I then called advanced auto and they proceeded to tell me they no longer sold copper/brass core radiators and they were aware the website stated they did.

Thanks for the response though. I thought I was all set until it was delivered. Summit lists the exact same radiator but I am just worried the same thing will happen.
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[Axle]

The aftermarket is moving to aluminum plastic, so you will come across some where the manufacturer has already made the switch.

I ended up with one for my Nova (SPI aluminum/plastic) and I gotta say, that thing was a better fit than any copper/brass rad I've had in the past. Cools better to. The tranny cooler lines where dead on as well and have been so far the only ones that I have never had to snug up further due to seepage. Its also 9 pounds lighter.

Alex.

[Outlaw87]

U.S. Radiator, but they are high dollar.

[king-918]

maybe im missing the point but why would it matter?

[76C10Stepside]

I went through this not long ago. Needed to replace the original 3-row H/D rad in my Mustang. Every place I called/went into listed them as copper in their database, but when they brought it out, it was an aluminum POS.
Speed shops say they have copper, but prices start around $400.
Called some radiator shops for prices on rebuilding (way too much). One shop said "all" of the radiators are being made in two factories in Thailand. He also said they are using smaller diameter tubes in the aluminum ones, and because of this, they develop blockage way faster and are only good for about 3 years.

In the end, I ended up pressure testing an old copper rad in one of my other project cars and amazingly, it was in great shape after sitting for 18 years! Even the coolant looked like new, and no corrosion. So, now that car needs a new radiator...

I'm glad I bought a new heavy-duty radiator for the truck several years ago.

[UATahoe]

Who knows. It may not matter. I just like the idea of the copper/brass from a durability standpoint.

Interesting info though. I actually called Vista Pro. The person i reached actually told me that the copper/brass was still available but the factory had a huge packing error which resulted in the aluminum cores being placed in the boxes labeled for the copper/brass ones. She told me that the copper/brass core was currently on backorder due to the problem and that they should be available again in mid August. Now whether that really is the case, i couldnt tell you.

I did however have a long discussion with Summit Racing and i now have, what i believe to be at least, a copper/brass on the way. The guy actually had the box opened and inspected to verify. Hopefully that was the case. I will know today around 5 when it is delivered.

In the end, the aluminum/plastic radiators may work just fine. I am sure they do. I just like metal over plastic. One of the main reasons i bought my 87 to restore LOL. Getting harder and harder these days to find vehicles actually made of metal. Sorry for the long post.

[Firebirdjones]

Get yourself a good quality aluminum radiator from Griffin or Be Cool and never look back.

Stay away from the cheap china crap and plastic tanks.

I've used both Griffin and Be Cool and have had excellent results, excellent quality and efficiency.

Or better yet have a custom unit made from a place like this......rondavisradiators.com Top quality and made in the USA too, he builds for all the desert racers out here.
I'm going to have him build a custom unit for my 79 1 ton pickup with a 502 that currently runs it's original 4 core copper Harrison unit (now 33 years old) and still doing it's job. But it's reached a point where it's life expectancy could leave me stranded at some point in the future so it's coming out for a better unit

[Axle]

I used to be a rabid copper/brass supporter. Then I got a newer car with an aluminum/plastic rad. That eventually needed to be replaced, and I naturally got an its-better-becuase its copper/brass rad for it.

That was a let down. What I found was thinner materials and that rad did not last anywhere near as long as it should have (4years 6 months). (along with a universal fit, mounting holes that didn't line up, tabs offset by just enough to need modification...) Replaced that with another plastic/aluminum job and its been there since Jan 2006. Based on that, I'm a convert and becuase of the less than stellar quality of a "new" copper/brass unit I decided to keep the aluminum/plastic one for the Nova.

YMMV =-)

Alex.

[Cheyenne Dan]

Try O'Reilly, I got one for mine a few months ago.
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[Firebirdjones]

I have one newer car left in the stable that is now 13 years old and still has it's original aluminum radiator with plastic tanks. Seems that is what the manufactures went to quite a long time ago.

I've personally never had an issue with them, they seem to last for many years so long as you maintain routine flushes (true with any radiator really)

But if it ever does let go I can tell you I won't bother replacing it with another plastic unit and can't understand why anyone would when there are better quality "full" aluminum units on the market that do a better job. That's what I put in everything now whether it had copper or plastic.

[76C10Stepside]

Clarification: I just repeated what one radiator shop guy told me, did not take it as gospel. I'd like to know the real truth.
If anyone out there has their aluminum/plastic radiator fail, feel free to cut out a cross section and report back on the inner-diameter of the tubes, how much corrosion build-up is in them, and how long the radiator lasted! One or two is still "anecdotal evidence", but better than "it worked for me" or "it broke". ;-}

I suspect that the source of the part makes a big difference. For example, reman parts from Canada (and U.S. when you can find them) seem to be better quality than from Asia. I'd rather buy Mexican parts than Asian (China, Malaysia, Thailand). If the design, materials and construction are all good, it's probably a good part. Entire countries either DO or DON'T value/embrace Quality in manufacturing. Don't think they ever made radiators in Taiwan, but if they did, they would probably be pretty good, because quality is highly valued in that country. Malaysia and and China don't give a damn about quality. It's obvious from the products they export.

[UATahoe]

Radiator delivered was copper and brass. All metal. This one came from summit
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[88Jimmy4x4]

Originally Posted by UATahoe

Radiator delivered was copper and brass. All metal. This one came from summit
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Good deal, my copper/brass radiator fit perfectly with factory rubber pads and mounts....very pleased

[tucsonjwt]

I got my copper radiator made by Ready Rad two years back. It did spring a very small leak this year, but I am in Hotzona. It was the cheapest radiator I could find (about $135, I think, delivered to my door.) I just google searched online for it.

[slam59]

Saw this online and never heard of this brand before. Anyone hear of them and are they decent? I am needing a radiator too and was looking at different ones. Link below, if you scrolll down it is the fourth one down, the 4 core for $214

http://www.drivewire.com/vehicle/197...ckup/radiator/

[tucsonjwt]

I don't know about that vendor, but I think this talk of needing a 4 core radiator is unnecessary unless you are running a big modified engine or towing mega loads. I have a Ready Rad larger style 3 core for my 454 in the AZ desert and have never had a problem. The aluminum radiators require special skills to repair when they leak, although street rods and my former 63 SWC Corvette have/had aluminum radiators. As long as you physically have the room for a larger radiator in copper I think that makes more sense. Corvettes and street rods have limited space. My $.02.

[Firebirdjones]

The aluminum does a better job at cooling than the old copper, that's why I've started making the switch when the coppers die. Better cooling is always a plus in my book.

My 79 454 pickup (now a 502) has a factory 4 core copper in it, and yes I do alot of towing with it. Still gets warmer than I would like if I have to climb the Bradshaws while pulling a load (typical as I'm asking alot), and while doing that I definately can't run the AC. Ron Davis is building an aluminum that will allow me to do all that without worrying about the temp gauge anymore. After what I've found an aluminum do for my chevelle I'm anxious how it's going to affect my truck.

My chevelle dyno'd at 640 hp, and I ran a factory 4 core copper in that for 30 years. It never really ran hot (175-180) and when I turned on the AC it would run about ~190ish. Nothing there to worry about except possibly detonation from the hot temps.
It sprung a leak so I decided to step up to a Griffin 2 core with 1 1/4" tubes. Talk about a difference, even with ambient temps at 100+ I can't get the car over 162-163 degrees and the AC running bumps it to 175 max.
Couldn't be happier. Since I run these engines (and other examples I have) on the ragged edge with tuning and compression,,,,,cooler temps are my best friend. Heat is the enemy, especially with pump gas getting progressively worse. I have other great examples here.

Not to write a book but I see alot of classic cars around here that can't even get around the block without overheating. I don't know if it's a tuning issue or if the cooling system simply isn't up to snuff, but it's almost commical. Last year at Goodguys was a perfect example. It was only 85 degrees outside, and at 4pm when everyone was leaving it was a traffic jamb inside the grounds. We sat in line for about 30 minutes creeping forward occasionally. I just left mine running and waiting (A very rambunctious 406 with only a 3 core copper in that car) I never got over 185 while idling all that time. I watched others that started puking fluid after only 5 minutes. They were pulling out of line and shutting cars down, popping hoods etc...I don't mean just 2 or 3 cars but literally 30+ cars or more. And that's just on the North side I was driving out of. What do these people do when it's 100 degrees down there? 85 is nothing. Just simply amazes me that people drive these things around knowing it's going to run that hot. Obviously they all have issues that need to be addressed. This isn't necessarily related to the copper/aluminum discussion here but it would appear to me a better radiator would go a long way for some of these people. Just not something to skimp on in my opinion.

Speaking of skimping, I've tried that myself trying one of those cheap Champion Ebay aluminum jobs. Completely unhappy with that decision.

[Lobie]

Griffin radiators are the way to go. They make them just outside of Greenville sc near me. I meet the owners kids who run the place. The whole family has history of the auto world. Their main company makes parts for the OEM world in Michigan. They bought griffin (not sure when) and the boys run it which are very involved in the racing world too. Great people and a great product made right here in the good old USA!
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[Firebirdjones]

Originally Posted by Lobie

Griffin radiators are the way to go. They make them just outside of Greenville sc near me. I meet the owners kids who run the place. The whole family has history of the auto world. Their main company makes parts for the OEM world in Michigan. They bought griffin (not sure when) and the boys run it which are very involved in the racing world too. Great people and a great product made right here in the good old USA!
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Roger that, I'm running 2 Griffins and absolutely can't be happier, awesome difference.

I use the Griffin in the classics because that's the only company (that I'm aware of) that go through the trouble to duplicate the factory copper Harrison tanks so the aluminum radiator looks like an OEM piece.

Once I paint them black nobody can tell the difference It's great when you need to keep that completely stock look.

[slam59]

Yeah Tucsonjwt, I saw the 3 core ones that Ready Rad radiators has online and am leaning that way. My 74 obvously wont be used for towing, although I do live in the desert where it can get up to 110 degrees, I am sure the 3 core from REady Rad Radiator will hold up. You say you have a larger style 3 core from them, do they have 2 different sizes of 3 core?

[tucsonjwt]

FYI - That cheap Ready Rad I got was 3.125" thick and filled the length x width cavity full, and the fan shroud covered it nicely. Here are some installed pics in my BB engine bay.

[C&C Chevy]

I was looking at those Ready-Rads too. Their quality control has mixed reviews to say the least! Yours looks good though.

[88Jimmy4x4]

Nice tucsonjwt, quality was great in the one I got, I have zero complaints and I am 100% satisfied.