Bolt on Rack and pinion

[rob32472]

Originally Posted by 65Gregg

I glanced at the website, I couldn't find anything that indicates which waterpump is required.

Short water pump

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by aggie91

Rob

Do you think that this mounting kit and rack and pinion would clear the bushing on the lower control arm if the lower arms where from a 73-87 C10? I ask because the bushings are much larger in diameter and I know the rack kit from No Limit does not clear them....

Thanks,

It looks like it would clear the stock 73-87 arms OK. This rack is mounted up higher, to have correct geometry with the outer TRE coming in from the top, like the OE. Also, this kit appears to mount the rack a little farther forward, which will give additional clearance. It looks like a nice product. I know what rack it is and they are on the right track. More good parts for C10'ers.

[aggie91]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

... I know what rack it is and they are on the right track. More good parts for C10'ers...

Rob
I'm guessing that this rack is different then yours. What are the differences? Does it have more or less turns lock to lock or is there more or less range of motion? I already have your No Limit unit and waiting on Porterbuilt's Forward Arms. I'm asking for another project that is in the works that I won't be spending as much money on it...
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[ol_skool_chevy]

i like it but I would like to see how your connecting your steering shaft also..I see its moved inside the frame rail now??

[rob32472]

The steering shaft is moved inside the frame rail and uses a support bracket that bolts on top of the motor mount. Here are some pics of the steering shaft connections.

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by aggie91

Rob
I'm guessing that this rack is different then yours. What are the differences? Does it have more or less turns lock to lock or is there more or less range of motion? I already have your No Limit unit and waiting on Porterbuilt's Forward Arms. I'm asking for another project that is in the works that I won't be spending as much money on it...
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So far it looks like a good kit. There are some differences, but if properly engineered and installed it should work great.
- Be carefull with the angles of the steering u-joints. 30* is really the max. Adjusting the idler bearing and/or moving the column a bit to make sure your under the 30* mark is very important. Let us know how the drive is. How many turns lock/lock? Does it turn the same full left vs. full right? Is the U-Turn ability better/worse? How is it in town, a parking lot, freeway?

[rob32472]

The steering is good with no binding at all. I have driven it only around for a short drive. The steering is about 3.5 lock to lock. It appears to be equal both ways. I will post more as I drive.... Just a note the kit was designed with a stock application in mind so my steering shafts are a little different Due to the LS swap. The angles would not even be close using a stock set up they are right at 30 degrees for my application.

[Slammit]

I have not heard any comments yet about the Unisteer R & P kit fitting a 72 C10 that has been lowered in the front ~3.5" and the rear 5". Do any of you foresee R & P kit fitment issues due to having a lowering kit on these trucks?
FYI, the lower A arms are not tubular - at least not at this point. It currently has lowering spindles and shorter springs/shocks from the lowering kit (installed by previous owner).
I may be asking this prematurely since the kit has not been on the market very long - but I can't picture much of a problem since it hasn't been lowered 'radically'. lol
Thanks for any advice...so glad to see these kits hitting the streets!

[INSIDIOUS '86]

Glad to see a unlisted product actually work. Look online and search how all of the mopar guys are royally pissed at unisteer
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[INSIDIOUS '86]

Originally Posted by rob32472

The steering shaft is moved inside the frame rail and uses a support bracket that bolts on top of the motor mount. Here are some pics of the steering shaft connections.

Replace those joints as well. The fall part and rattle loose overtime just FYI. My dads superbee with a unisteer did this on the highway. Lucky we caught it.
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[Slammit]

Originally Posted by INSIDIOUS '86

Replace those joints as well. The fall part and rattle loose overtime just FYI. My dads superbee with a unisteer did this on the highway. Lucky we caught it.
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Insidious - Did I just hear you say the Unisteer steering U joints *can* fail rapidly? And if you replaced them - what would you replace them with please?
(See pic for u joints in question)
Thanks for any info for all of us.

[rob32472]

I have had good luck with unisteer u joints in the past. Did the joints fall apart? Set screws come loose?

[Scottshotrods]

We use Uni-steer u-joints on all of our builds in the shop over the last 3 years and have sold several u-joints to our customers.Never had any problems with them at all.

Please explain what problems you have had with them?

Justin

[Slammit]

I'm anxious to hear about this.
IMO...these set screws should have at least Loctite Blue (or similar) and any other screws/nuts up and down the steering shaft and in these bolt on kits that don't have nylon (locking) nuts should be using Loctite Blue.
I'm saying this not knowing if that is even the problem or even if there is a real problem for the C10 installations...

[rob32472]

Originally Posted by Slammit

I'm anxious to hear about this.
IMO...these set screws should have at least Loctite Blue (or similar) and any other screws/nuts up and down the steering shaft and in these bolt on kits that don't have nylon (locking) nuts should be using Loctite Blue.
I'm saying this not knowing if that is even the problem or even if there is a real problem for the C10 installations...

I will agree on the loctite.... the main purpose of the thread and the install was for mock up at this point....... the entire truck will be coming apart soon for paint and powder coat

[wraprail]

Originally Posted by INSIDIOUS '86

Replace those joints as well. The fall part and rattle loose overtime just FYI. My dads superbee with a unisteer did this on the highway. Lucky we caught it.
Posted via Mobile Device

Sorry to drag up an old thread but I am installing this in a friends C10 so what rattled loose over time? How much time? Did they actually fall apart?

Thanks

[crakarjax]

Wow what a difference 4 years makes... the kit is now twice the price at $1700!

http://www.unisteer.com/c10/67-72-ch...inion-kit.html

[dwcsr]

That's the retail on it, You can find it for $1450

[crakarjax]

You're right, $1150 at summit... Still pricey though.

[1moretoy]

Will this work if running bags? Looks like the shafts might hit the frame.

[crakarjax]

Originally Posted by 1moretoy

Will this work if running bags? Looks like the shafts might hit the frame.

A lot of people notch the frame to clear the shafts, but since this one is mounted a bit differently it's hard to tell if that would be necessary.

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by 1moretoy

Will this work if running bags? Looks like the shafts might hit the frame.

No need to notch the frame, as long as you haven't cut up the stock upper coil pocket (upper bag plate mount) there are no problems.

[crakarjax]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

No need to notch the frame, as long as you haven't cut up the stock upper coil pocket (upper bag plate mount) there are no problems.

Ah right I was thinking about the No Limit kit, which has clearance issues if the crossmember is pancaked or set up into the frame iirc.

This one doesn't have that issue since it's located to the frame, but it looks like it hangs as low as the crossmember such that pancaking the x-member or setting it up into the frame wouldn't gain any clearance, but it's hard to tell give n the angles in the pics. Can anyone confirm that?

[1moretoy]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

No need to notch the frame, as long as you haven't cut up the stock upper coil pocket (upper bag plate mount) there are no problems.

I'm just bag plates and portertbuilt upper and lower control arms.

[aggie91]

Originally Posted by crakarjax

Ah right I was thinking about the No Limit kit, which has clearance issues if the crossmember is pancaked or set up into the frame iirc.

This one doesn't have that issue since it's located to the frame, but it looks like it hangs as low as the crossmember such that pancaking the x-member or setting it up into the frame wouldn't gain any clearance, but it's hard to tell give n the angles in the pics. Can anyone confirm that?

I used No Limit's kit in Sunburn (link is in my sig). I raised the cross member in the frame 1.5". We had NO clearance issues with the rack or tie rod ends clearing the frame rail. We also had air bags in our set up...