Issues with CPP tubular upper control arm

[mahanian]

Originally Posted by Tmend

Yea saw it ...zoomed in
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Good old phone pictures

[mahanian]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Yes.

Look here:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=537266

Member Gringoloco is getting ready to install a set of lowers on his truck.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444746

Portebuilt makes them for bagged trucks and has a bolt in adapter to hold a coil spring also!

Wow, those are really tempting!!

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by mahanian

Wow, those are really tempting!!

Yes they are.
The caster gains are the big bonus,... but I like more,... the fact that they help center the wheel in the fender!

[mahanian]

They will have to be a future purchase, do you think moving up to a 2" drop spring would help if the alignment shop can't get me some negative camber?

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by mahanian

They will have to be a future purchase, do you think moving up to a 2" drop spring would help if the alignment shop can't get me some negative camber?

Sure.
But I would just trim those since you already have them.

[Tmend]

If u get a higher spring it will give even more camber- thats why the upper arms give u more camber people by them when unlower trucks cuz the lower u go the camber becomes neg so the arms makeup the diff
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[Tmend]

Without the wheel the rotor looks pretty straight or em I seeing things
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[mahanian]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Sure.
But I would just trim those since you already have them.

Don't I have to take a complete coil off to make it seat properly in the cups? A full coil would probably be a substantial drop

Originally Posted by Tmend

If u get a higher spring it will give even more camber- thats why the upper arms give u more camber people by them when unlower trucks cuz the lower u go the camber becomes neg so the arms makeup the diff
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Sorry, when I said move up to a 2" drop spring I meant move up from a 1.5" drop spring to a 2" drop spring.

[Tmend]

Originally Posted by mahanian

Don't I have to take a complete coil off to make it seat properly in the cups? A full coil would probably be a substantial drop



Sorry, when I said move up to a 2" drop spring I meant move up from a 1.5" drop spring to a 2" drop spring.

Ok yea that would help some
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[mahanian]

Originally Posted by Tmend

Without the wheel the rotor looks pretty straight or em I seeing things
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Those pictures are a little misleading because the driver side still has the tire on so the blocks aren't the exact same height as it would be with a wheel and tire. The first couple pictures show how the tire angles out towards the top.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by mahanian

Don't I have to take a complete coil off to make it seat properly in the cups?
A full coil would probably be a substantial drop

I cut a half coil all the time.
You can cut less.
Just seat the top of the spring in the spring pocket.
(up in the crossmember)

1/2 coil cut = approximately 1" of drop.

The real question,... is the truck the height you want it now?
If it is,... I wouldn't lower it any more.

Have you even driven it yet?
I would put a few miles on the truck prior to alignment to make sure the springs settle.
Also take some good measurements of the fender height.
Make sure it is equal on both sides now and after the alignment.
Many times the passenger side is slightly higher.

[mahanian]

Originally Posted by lolife99

I cut a half coil all the time.
You can cut less.
Just seat the top of the spring in the spring pocket.
(up in the crossmember)

1/2 coil cut = approximately 1" of drop.

The real question,... is the truck the height you want it now?
If it is,... I wouldn't lower it any more.

Have you even driven it yet?
I would put a few miles on the truck prior to alignment to make sure the springs settle.
Also take some good measurements of the fender height.
Make sure it is equal on both sides now and after the alignment.
Many times the passenger side is slightly higher.

Good advice, thanks. I've only driven it about a mile so far, I put in a new engine and transmission as well so I'm still breaking them in. I think I'll throw on some stock wheels and tires and cruise it for a short while before I take it in to get aligned.

[BMERDOC]

I am at work so I only had a second to scan your thread. Given the parts that you installed and the info provided you have the wrong upper arms. Install the stock uppers again to see if that corrects the problem. The spindles and springs shouldn't affect the suspension like that. You're gonna have to call cpp and get the correct uppers. Don't get an alignment yet. There is no way that will rectify the situation.
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[mahanian]

Unfortunately I don't have the stock upper control arms anymore

Keith,
Would you mind taking a measurement on your CPP tubular arms from the cross shaft to the some point on the ball joint?

[mahanian]

Keith,
If you could measure the center of the cross shaft to the center of the inboard surface of the ball joint on your CPP control arms that would be very helpful

[BMERDOC]

I went out and measured the stock upper arm. From the face of the crossshaft where the forward retaining nut is to the c/l of the zerk fitting on top of the upper ball joint is 9". I can't post pics from my phone but if you need it I can post it from my laptop later.
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[Lee H]

That measurement on my 72 with CCP tubular arms is 7 3/4.

[mahanian]

Thanks for the measurements guys, I will run home on my lunch break and measure mine.

I doubled checked the part number I ordered and it's correct. If they mixed up the parts I doubt they will do anything since it's been 8 months.

[19stepSide72]

CPP exchanged motor mounts for me over a year later. They understood we buy parts as we can. That was a year ago too. I would at least call and ask. I have these same upper and lowers tubular but the truck is in paint jail and away from me to measure.
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[mahanian]

Thanks, it's worth asking if they are indeed the wrong parts

[mahanian]

I measured the control arm and it's 7 3/4" as well, I'm going to take it to the alignment shop and have them measure the camber and see if the positive angle is just an optical illusion

[BMERDOC]

Originally Posted by mahanian

I measured the control arm and it's 7 3/4" as well, I'm going to take it to the alignment shop and have them measure the camber and see if the positive angle is just an optical illusion

Looking at the pics on a laptop, the pics with the tire/wheel on do look like it has A LOT of positive camber but the pics without the tire look perfectly fine. Maybe it would be worth putting it on the rack and getting the numbers after all.

[Hart_Rod]

Any updates?

[mahanian]

I got the truck aligned and the best they could do was +0.5 camber. So for my truck the CPP upper tubular control arms won't get me the -0.5 camber I want with just a 1 1/2" drop spring.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by mahanian

I got the truck aligned and the best they could do was +0.5 camber. So for my truck the CPP upper tubular control arms won't get me the -0.5 camber I want with just a 1 1/2" drop spring.

Now you got me worried, . The only reason I installed the CPP arms were to be able to get a good alignment without a bunch of shims. I've got 2.5-3" drop springs so hopefully it will work out.....